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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors Time+Tide
TAG Heuer announces new trio Aug 18, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors

I’ll leave the novelty recap to our upcoming Last Week in Watches column, and there will certainly be a ton of news to come with Geneva Watch Days on the horizon, so below are some watch world headlines you may have missed this week. Tudor openes new boutique in Brisbane with The Hour Glass Tudor, in partnership … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is exceedingly German and exceedingly dapper Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Aug 18, 2023

The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is exceedingly German and exceedingly dapper

Glashütte Original’s most underrated watch is now chronometer-certified… But not by COSC Its Panorama Date brings a signature Glashütte twist to a marine chronometer aesthetic Glashütte pivots from their typical striping to a 3/4 bridgeplate with a frosted finish Glashütte Original’s really cooking at the moment, with the German brand having released some serious stunners … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is exceedingly German and exceedingly dapper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches and What Else: Bryan Braddy and His Unique Horological Art Worn & Wound
Aug 17, 2023

Watches and What Else: Bryan Braddy and His Unique Horological Art

Editor’s Note: Watches and What Else is a new column where we look at some of the other things our watch collecting community is interested in. We’ve always found watch collectors to be a curious, well rounded bunch, and in this series we’re going to explore a variety of the watch adjacent (and sometimes, not so adjacent) interests of collectors of all stripes. From illustration to aviation, video games and comics to heavy metal and craft cocktails, there’s a lot to explore, and we think you’ll enjoy diving into the pursuits that your fellow watch enthusiasts are passionate about.  This week, Chris Antzoulis talks to a founder of RedBar’s Raleigh chapter, a longtime illustrator, and the purveyor of one of our favorite “watch art” Instagram accounts.  Bryan Braddy is a watch enthusiast who resides in Raleigh, North Carolina. He’s one of the founders of RedBar Raleigh, and is a pillar in our horological hobby. But in this inaugural edition of Watches and What Else we’ll also get to know the man behind @badartnicewatch, and his passion for illustration. Watches Bryan got into watches much like the rest of us, by attempting to shoplift a Mickey Mouse watch as a three-year-old and forcing his parents to pony up lest they get thrown in mall jail for the transgressions of their offspring. From there, Bryan really did travel down the route the rest of us did, by sporting a snazzy Fossil from middle school through his college years. After graduating from colle...

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Mr. Jones Continues to Expand their Mechanical Collection with the Release of The Accurate, A Clever Take on the Memento Mori Worn & Wound
Aug 17, 2023

Mr. Jones Continues to Expand their Mechanical Collection with the Release of The Accurate, A Clever Take on the Memento Mori

Mr. Jones, the brand whose slogan is “The Most Unique British Watches,” continues to update their eclectic collection with mechanical versions of their most popular and talked about quartz watches. Back in April, we told you about the mechanical release of “A Perfectly Useless Afternoon,” a watch that told time via a display that brings one of the laziest activities imaginable – floating aimlessly in a pool – into fluid motion on the wrist. That design is a perfect example of the Mr. Jones ethos, which is to use a watch dial as a blank canvas to tell a story in a highly specific way, and to get people talking. Their watches, while certainly not to every taste, are undeniably full of ideas, and remarkably creative in a way that most watches simply aren’t, as the brand isn’t inspired by traditional watchmaking. The newest watch in their mechanical collection actually does take an idea that has existed in watchmaking for just about as long as the practice has existed, the memento mori, and puts a uniquely Mr. Jones spin on it. “The Accurate” doesn’t use traditional memento mori iconography, but it is, as the brand says, the most accurate watch ever made.  The Mr. Jones collection is full of visual puns, and The Accurate is a good example. The words “remember you will die” appear spread across the hour and minute hands, such that whenever you read the time, you get a not-so-subtle reminder of your own mortality. This, of course, is the point of a mem...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 There’s not Aug 16, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38

There’s not much left to say about the resurgence of the integrated bracelet sport watch and the many modern iterations we’ve seen on the theme. Some have history, many more don’t, and it certainly hasn’t gotten any easier to decipher the unique elements that make one stand out from another. I’d argue that this comes down to execution which, when paired with a historically relevant and idiosyncratic approach, tends to produce the best example of the genre. Though that’s not a rule, merely a subjective observation. One of the more peculiar examples of this is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a watch that was released smack in the middle of the ‘70s, designed by an Italian architect, and has experienced a slightly tumultuous lineage, all leading to this graceful 38mm reference with copper dial.  The Laureato has an interesting and varied history, yet is often absent from the discussion around great sport watches of the ‘70s. It wasn’t designed by Gerald Genta, like the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur watches of the same era, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a great origin story. Similarly to those other watches, the original design holds up remarkably well today, and Girard-Perregaux has preserved the core of the Laureato admirably, though some less than flattering eras to boot. $14900 [VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Case Stainless Steel Movement GP03300 Dial Copper Clous de Paris Lume Super LumiNova Lens Sapphi...

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The Fibonacci Sequence Strikes Again! Nomos and Revolution Team Up for the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update “Resilience” Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer 124270 Aug 15, 2023

The Fibonacci Sequence Strikes Again! Nomos and Revolution Team Up for the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update “Resilience”

The latest limited edition produced by Wei Koh and our friends at Revolution is a high concept variant of the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update that uses one of our favorite mathematical principles as a starting point. Longtime readers might recall Blake’s dive into the Rolex Explorer 124270, and pondered what the dimensions of that watch and their relationship to the Golden Ratio meant for comfort on the wrist. The so-called Golden Ratio is derived from dividing each number in the Fibonacci series by its predecessor, and the results, in an almost mystical way, seem to line up with natural phenomenon, like the way leaves, branches, and petals grow in a predictable spiral, and the shape of the shell of a snail. This new watch, dubbed “Resilience,” is so-named because the helix shape, a pattern linked to the Fibonacci sequence, is the symbol for resilience in nature, a concept that Revolution and Nomos were interested in exploring coming out of the Covid-19 pandemic.  Before we get to the watch, a brief refresher/math lesson is required to get everyone up to speed on the Fibonacci numbers. This will be coming from someone with a liberal arts education, so please do feel free to check my work in the comments below, as I just barely passed introductory calculus. The easiest way to understand the Fibonacci sequence is to observe that they’re a set of numbers where the next digit is always the sum of the two digits immediately preceding it. Dividing any two successive F...

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Ollech & Wajs Issues the OW 56 M, a Limited Edition Made from Mostly New Old Stock and Up-Cycled Components Worn & Wound
Aug 15, 2023

Ollech & Wajs Issues the OW 56 M, a Limited Edition Made from Mostly New Old Stock and Up-Cycled Components

We’ve seen a number of compelling releases from Ollech & Wajs in the years since the brand was relaunched, but the new OW 56 M is something genuinely different, and not simply another plumbing of the back catalog. At a glance, the OW 56 M resembles any number of other Ollech & Wajs releases. It has a brutish charm about, presents as a true tool, and is without any unnecessary adornment. But this watch sets itself apart with the literal components it’s made from, with a number of the watch’s parts being new old stock or refurbished from an earlier Ollech & Wajs era.  The 38mm case used for the OW 56 M has been upcycled from stock originally acquired by Ollech & Wajs in the 1990s. While the brand doesn’t provide exact manufacture dates for the cases, they say they were acquired in the late 90s, but made “several years earlier.” If that puts the manufacturing period at sometime in the late 80s or early 90s, we’re looking at cases that are right on the edge of vintage. The design of the case itself is straightforward, and right in line with the brand’s pilot watches that date back to their inception in 1956.  The movements are ETA 2824, and are taken from OW’s unused stock. All movements used for the 56 M have been serviced and reconditioned after a prolonged period of sitting on the proverbial shelf. Of course, the ETA 2824 is one of the most reliable workhorse movements, with untold thousands in working without incident over many decades, so it’s quite ...

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Review: Tudor Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” SJX Watches
Tudor Pelagos FXD & Pelagos Aug 15, 2023

Review: Tudor Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”

Having signed on as the sponsor for the Swiss syndicate competing in the 2024 America’s Cup, Tudor recently unveiled the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”. Both watches have carbon composite cases – a first for Tudor – while the FXD Chrono is an entirely new model. The two timepieces mark Tudor’s partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but are also official-issue watches for the team, so the crew of Alinghi are wearing either one of the two, both during training and as they challenge for the 37th America’s Cup taking place next year. Key takeaways Both feel more solid than expected for carbon-composite cases, which is reassuring. The carbon composite cases have the same design and detail as their equivalent metal counterparts. The blue and black colour combination is unusual and takes some getting used to, while the branding on the flange is not apparent on the wrist. The value proposition is outstanding as expected for Tudor. The chronograph has an edge in terms of appeal due to its slightly better value proposition as well as the visual appeal of the complication matched with the Pelagos design. Pelagos FXD Chrono (left), and Pelagos FXD Initial thoughts Tudor watches usually look much as they do in photos, but the two Alinghi watches look quite different, and much better, in real life, particular in terms of dial colour. The dial colour appears purplish in the stock images, but it’s a dark blue ...

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Cartier Watches for Men Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Aug 14, 2023

Cartier Watches for Men Buyer's Guide

Once dubbed “The King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings” by no less a personage than King Edward VII of England, Cartier is regarded by many watch aficionados as a jewelry house first and a watchmaker second - and a watchmaker prone to feminine, jewel-bedecked watches at that. Historically, however, nothing could be further from the truth. Cartier’s horological roots run even deeper than its high-jewelry history, and the French-Swiss luxury powerhouse has contributed some of the most historic and influential watch designs in the world, many of them aimed at men long before their appeal expanded to women.  Family Foundations  Louis-Francois Cartier (above, 1819-1904) apprenticed under master watchmaker Adolphe Piccard before founding his eponymous company, at the age of 28, in Piccard’s Parisian workshop in 1847. As Cartier’s watches and jewelry found widespread success, and an esteemed client list that included royalty like Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon III, the firm moved to more luxurious quarters in the Palais-Royal District and eventually to the current world headquarters at 13 Rue de la Paix. Louis-Francois passed the reins of the growing company to his son Alfred in 1874, and Alfred brought in his sons to succeed him toward the end of the 19th Century. It was this third generation of family ownership, under brothers Pierre, Jacques, and Louis Cartier, that truly catapulted Cartier from the boundaries of France to the world stage. While Jacqu...

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Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat Worn & Wound
Oris Releases Aug 14, 2023

Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat

The latest release from Oris, and one that highlights their ongoing Change for the Better initiative, is a sequel of sorts to a watch that became a cult hit when it was released in 2021. The Dat Watt Limited Edition II is very much in the same vein as the original Dat Watt Limited Edition, but with a few twists to make this new LE its own thing. Its release comes alongside an announcement from Oris that they’ve extended their relationship with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) by another two years, the organization that works to protect the Wadden Sea, which provides the inspiration for the new watch.  The Wadden Sea covers 11,500 square kilometers in northern Europe, and includes shoreline in Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. This intertidal zone is a unique geographical space in that it happens to be the world’s largest unbroken tidal flats system, and is in a largely undisturbed state, thanks in part to the efforts of the CWSS. Because of the area’s size and the fact that it has been so well protected, it’s an important area for the study of the 10,000 species that live there. The Wadden Sea has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 2009 based on its importance to global biodiversity.  Like the first Dat Watt Limited Edition, this new release uses the Aquis diver as a platform, here in its 43.5mm footprint. The dial’s green tone is inspired by the waters in the Wadden Sea’s salt marshes, which act as critical natural storage for CO2. Thi...

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[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 8S There Aug 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S

There is a big difference between seeing a watch at a trade show, meetup, or boutique and living with one. In the former experiences, it’s very easy to be immediately taken with something. The energy of the environment, the thrill of trying on watches, perhaps a champagne or two, create a level of excitement that overlays everything you touch and see. As such, the watches we get to experience in these shows need to be taken out into the less flattering light of the real world to truly know if that excitement was genuine, or just a by-product of the situation in which they were introduced. One brand I’ve always been very taken with, especially when I’ve gotten to handle their wares at Watches and Wonders, is Ressence. For those unfamiliar with the Haute-independent brand, it was founded by Benoît Mintiens in 2010 with the goal of rethinking how a watch displays time. The solution found didn’t recreate the wheel, though it did heavily modify it. Utilizing a patented module design called the Ressence Orbital Convex System or ROCS, Mintiens, an industrial designer by trade, eliminated the use of classic hands. Instead, the whole dial becomes an active surface for telling the time with satellite sub-registers floating within a larger, always-in-motion, display. In 2022 they unveiled the Type 8, their simplest and lowest-priced model. The following year, they introduced it in a lovely, pale green and called it the Type 8S, for sage. Both years I left their booth a bit g...

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Everything you need to know about dial finishing Time+Tide
Aug 14, 2023

Everything you need to know about dial finishing

When you look at a watch, what’s the first thing you notice? Do you immediately comment on the movement, or perhaps case finishing? Of course not – it’s the dial. No matter how nice the movement is, or even how suitable the dimensions are for your wrist, the dial is the likely the one to … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about dial finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph Aug 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo

When it comes to big watch fairs like Watches & Wonders Geneva, it’s often the brands that aren’t officially exhibiting at the show that have some of the most exciting releases. Step out of the frenetic hive of activity that is Palexpo and go exploring Geneva’s streets, hotels and bars and you’ll find all manner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face Time+Tide
Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor Aug 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face

It may come as a bit of a surprise, but I often compare Rolex and Cartier due to a strong commonality. Yes, they are very different brands with very different products. But an element I believe they do share is a very key point. Watch enthusiasts often point out that Rolex practises incremental updates. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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You Can Only Wear One For Life (Pt 2): Breitling, Omega, IWC, TAG Heuer – these were your responses… Time+Tide
TAG Heuer these were your responses… Aug 13, 2023

You Can Only Wear One For Life (Pt 2): Breitling, Omega, IWC, TAG Heuer – these were your responses…

Editor’s note: For a watch collector, horological monogamy is a huge challenge. The idea of limiting yourself to one watch, or one brand, is enough to give most watch collectors the sweats. But we like to have fun at Time+Tide. So we challenged you all to pick one of four brands in part one. The … ContinuedThe post You Can Only Wear One For Life (Pt 2): Breitling, Omega, IWC, TAG Heuer – these were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Aug 11, 2023

Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall

Adventure and a well-made timepiece have long gone hand-in-hand. From Arctic expeditions to sailing adventures, the spirit of discovery is only enhanced by a great watch to keep one company. One natural landmark above all others seems to encapsulate the spirit of adventure, while simultaneously showing us the beauty of the natural world: Mount Everest. With its dangerous valleys, snowy peaks, and legendary status in our collective imagination, Mount Everest has captured thrill seekers for centuries. It’s no wonder, then, that NORQAIN has added two new models to its NEVEREST range, each continuing to highlight the exceptionalism of the world’s tallest mountain. Each watch in this new release takes on its own interpretation of mountaineering excellence with a modern feel, making for a unique interpretation of Mount Everest’s legacy that doesn’t feel too contrived or on the nose. For example, the NEVEREST GMT Glacier Grey & Gold takes inspiration from the gold light-filled crevasses of the mountain with a “cracked” gold dial against a black background. The watch is complemented by a 41mm stainless steel case, a date window at 3 o’clock, red gold-plated hands, and Superluminova hands and indices. It’s the small details of this watch which show not only an attention to detail, but an imagination to marry performance and aesthetics. The second release from the NEVEREST line-up is the 40mm Glacier Black & Gold. Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall, the most dangerous pa...

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