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Monochrome
With summer just around the corner, many of us switch our more formal dress watches for something more suitable for warmer temperatures, travelling and outdoor activities. The ideal summer wrist companion combines water-resistance with robustness and, why not, a splash of colour. The Certina DS Action Diver fits the bill to a tee, and the […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne has repeated last year’s bifurcated release format with the launch of the compact, value-oriented Saxonia Annual Calendar alongside the flagship Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. Available in both 18k white and pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar is not a limited edition, but will be made in small numbers as a consequence of the brand’s diverse portfolio and limited output of about 5,000 watches per year. Initial thoughts The Saxonia Annual Calendar was one of the more talked-about watches of the fair, not because it’s particularly novel or exciting, but instead because it gets all the small things right. It looks good on the spec sheet, with nearly perfect dimensions, the brand’s signature big date complication, and an upgraded and well-dressed automatic base calibre. But as good as the Saxonia is on paper, it’s even better up close. The brand’s typical alpha-shaped hands — common to all Lange models — are brilliantly sharp, and the dial text is finely printed. A detail I especially like on the white gold model is the nearly tone-on-tone typography for the ‘Made in Germany’ text, which is something I’d like to see more of from the brand. A new aesthetic detail is an additional facet at the outer end of each hour marker, effectively creating a tiny pyramid, akin to Cote de Paris. This design appears to be a subtle nod to the previous generation of the Saxonia, which featured baton indexes punctuated with gold stu...
Monochrome
You don’t have to be a watchmaking fan to know that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is one of the few watches that defines the brand and modern horology at large. As the direct descendant of the 1926 Oyster, one of the very first waterproof wristwatches, this time-only, robust, precise, and endlessly wearable watch is what […]
SJX Watches
One of the highlights in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auctions taking place on May 11, 2026, is the Audemars Piguet “Coussin Tortue” single-button chronograph wristwatch, serial number 41’849. It is an exceedingly rare watch, being one of a batch of three examples that were the first ever chronograph wristwatches made by Audemars Piguet (AP). Moreover, the watch has been in the same family since new, and is consigned by a descendent of the original owner who bought the watch in 1943. Also notably is the fact that this watch has been comprehensively – but sympathetically and artfully – restored by AP. This “cushion turtle” wristwatch has a platinum case and two-tone, solid gold dial, while the movement is a LeCoultre, just like the others in the batch of three watches. The first of the three was in white gold, following by two in platinum, including this example. Interestingly, this watch was delivered to retailer Veuve Louis Goering in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1937, but only sold six years later. The tepid demand for such watches perhaps explains why, according to Christie’s, AP made a total of six single-button chronograph wristwatch movements, but the remaining three were only cased and sold over a decade after this one. Restored perfectly Besides being extremely rare and also unexpectedly beautiful, this watch stands out for having been enjoyed “extensive” restoration at Audemars Piguet. Ordinarily restoration would be frowned upon, but the watch was pre...
Fratello
I have been lucky enough to try a wide variety of Unimatic watches over time. As some of you know, I love the brand’s ability to create great new releases that surprise me time and again. A big part of that is due to the brilliant canvas that the Unimatic founders, Giovanni Moro and Simone […] Visit Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Quattro U4S-T-LB Limited Edition to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Founded in 2017, Italian brand Venezianico has caught attention with its stylish, well-priced watches that often play around with materials and design. From pieces inspired by Venetian architecture to a recent Redentore with a guilloché pattern depicting the Venetian lagoon’s tides, there is usually a bit of character in what they do. Inspired by the […]
Fratello
I have had the pleasure of reviewing a good number of Yema watches over the past few years. During the many hands-on experiences, I have found that I gravitate toward the brand’s quirky classics. My all-time favorite is the Superman FAF Search And Rescue Limited Edition from a few years ago. But I also love […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim Full Lume CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.
Deployant
Our writer Frank shares his top 3 picks from the recently concluded Watches & Wonders Geneva
SJX Watches
It is somewhat counterintuitive to think that New York-based jeweller Jacob & Co. is one of the fastest growing brands in the mostly stagnant Swiss watch industry. In fact, Jacob & Co. is now a watchmaker first and a jeweller second by turnover – watches account for 75% of the brand’s revenue today. This success is party due to the brand’s open-minded approach to movement making and the surprising (and often risky) projects it has produced, from the first 31-day wristwatch in 2006 to the world’s fastest tourbillon in 2026. One of Jacob & Co.’s specialties is dial-side automata - micro-mechanical sculptures that that can be activated on demand. Alongside the launch of the flagship Godfather II, Jacob & Co. expanded its range of automata watches with new sapphire editions of the Bugatti Tourbillon, a malachite-dialled Casino, and new editions of the provocative Oil Pump. The Bugatti Tourbillon Sapphire Jacob & Co. is not the first watch brand to collaborate with celebrated carmaker Bugatti, but the collaboration is more than a mere commercial tie-up. In fact, the two companies share a manufacturing partner - Concepto - a La Chaux-de-Fonds-based specialist in components and white-label movements. Bugatti enlisted Concepto to produce the fully analogue instrument cluster of its latest hypercar - the aptly named Tourbillon. This was a delightful return to tactility in a world of digital displays and ubiquitous touchscreens. This three-way collaboration contin...
Worn & Wound
For the first time ever, walk away from a Windup Watch Fair with a new timepiece you built yourself. Join the Worn & Wound team with our friends from DIY Watch Club on Saturday May 2nd and Sunday, May 3, 2026 from 11 AM to 1 PM for a private watchmaking class led by DIY […]
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Hodinkee
We'll have further auction coverage in the coming weeks, but it's worth giving Phillips a bit more attention, as it continues to lead in year-over-year sales. The auction house sold a record total of over $290 million in watches last year and has had five years in a row with over $200 million in sales. The market has shifted (I'd argue at least twice) in the past few years, but despite the growing F.P. Journe, independent, and pocket watch (yes, pocket watch) markets, the top lots for Phillips continue to be Patek Philippe. At each of their spring auctions, Phillips is selling an important Patek to headline the sale, and each is the kind of watch that could be the pinnacle of the world's top collections. Normal caveat here: I haven't seen these watches in person yet, and anyone considering bidding should make sure to check any watch in person if at all possible. A Patek Philippe ref. 2523 Two-Crown World Time With Cloissoné Enamel South America Dial First, we have the star of Geneva, to be sold on May 9: the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 two-crown world time with cloisonné enamel map of South America, from 1953. Aside from rare variants of 2499s or 1518s (and a few repeaters), these two-crown watches, with their incredible, angular lugs and giant open canvas at the center of the dial, have become the holiest of Holy Grails for many collectors. They are rare enough to be hunted and coveted, but there are also enough out there to be studied, understood, and codified. Too rare o...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko has been revisiting its 1968 Diver's platform for years now, and the Prospex Heritage family keeps getting more interesting with each wave of releases. The latest additions are the HBC001 and HBC002, two new references that bring a mechanical GMT complication to the lineage for the first time. Both watches reference the 1968 original while expanding what the modern Prospex Heritage line can do. Availability is set for May this year. The post The Iconic Seiko 1968 Diver Gets A New Automatic GMT Movement appeared first on Two Broke Watch Snobs.
Monochrome
While not the only brand to offer watches with a single-handed time display, MeisterSinger (since 2001) is the only one to have built its entire identity around this concept. Rooted in early watchmaking traditions, long before minutes and seconds dominated the dial, the brand’s approach prioritises perception over precision. A slower, more deliberate reading of […]
Hodinkee
Resonance is one of the most fascinating physical phenomena explored in watchmaking, where two oscillators influence each other and eventually synchronize. Since Christiaan Huygens' 17th‑century observations with pendulum clocks, watchmakers have sought to harness it in wristwatches. At the May 2026 lecture of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), Armin Strom Co-Founder and Master Watchmaker Claude Greisler will share how the brand successfully achieved resonance in 2016 with the caliber ARF15. Central to this innovation is the patented resonance clutch, which links the two hairsprings, allowing them to synchronize quickly and continuously average out rate deviations. Join Greisler as he explores the journey from theory to mechanism and the creation of a modern resonance system. About Claude Greisler "A passion for 'transparent mechanics', both from an aesthetic perspective and to showcase how our watches actually work, has always guided my design sensibility. From a watchmaking perspective, I honor the many generations of Swiss-German watchmakers in my family with an uncompromising commitment to perfection in both movement quality and finishing." - Claude Greisler Born into a watchmaker family, Claude Greisler began his formal watchmaking education at a watchmaker school in Solothurn, Switzerland, followed by advanced programs at the Centre Interrégional de Formation des Montagnes (CIFOM) in Le Locle. He graduated in watch restoration and watch development, com...
Hodinkee
What We Know It's easy to argue that the relaunch of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 (with the added bonus of a solar-powered movement) was both highly anticipated and resulted in one of the most fun summer watches of 2025. Some of the watches stuck around, and some were short-term limited editions tied to different Formula 1 races throughout the year. But if you were waiting for alternative watches (especially vintage-inspired ones), you're in luck, because the brand has dozens of previous variations they haven't tapped to re-release yet. So with that in mind, TAG Heuer has gone for more pastel-inspired releases that start pre-sale on April 28. The new Formula 1 models come in five variations. In a pastel blue, beige/yellow, or pink TH-Polylight cases (TAG Heuer's proprietary bio-polyamide plastic) that are color matched to their opaline dials and Polylight bezels or with sandblasted steel cases with violet-blue dials/bezel with pink accents or pastel green dials/bezels (with eight VS-grade diamonds in place of the circular hour markers), there's a lot of variations available. There's no doubt that these watches lean a bit more feminine than previous releases. The sizing is pretty unisex, however, measuring 38mm by 9.9mm with solid casebacks and screw-down crowns, giving the watch 100m of water resistance. The watches with the Polylight cases come on color-matched rubber straps with pin buckles, while the stainless steel versions have matching sandblasted stainless steel three-ro...
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Time+Tide
Hamilton's latest Khaki Field Mechanical draws inspiration directly from U.S. Air Force-issued references, and is only available during 2026The post Hamilton’s new Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm takes direct aim at its 1970s military origins appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
IWC’s Laureus watches have been available for some time now. Over the years, the brand has released them in different collections, from Pilot’s watches to Portofino models and even some more experimental pieces. What stays consistent over the years is the blue dial and the link to Laureus Sport for Good, a global initiative that […]
SJX Watches
In an unexpected departure from their its horological extravaganza, Richard Mille has just unveiled the time-only RM 55-01. With a focus on simplified movement architecture and lightness, the RM 55-01’s movement is a hand-wound exercise in restraint and weighs under 5 g – equivalent to one sheet of A4 paper. Initial thoughts At its debut in the early 2000s, Richard Mille basically introduced and then perfected the niche offering of ultra-expensive, “hyper” sports watches, juggling complications, materials and bold aesthetics to create an outrageously expensive cocktail of lightness and ergonomics. With the RM55-01 the same brand returns to the basics, with a caliber developed for extreme lightness, doing away with automatic winding or any complications. The watch only tells the hours, minutes and seconds - which is not really something one expects from Richard Mille these days. This RM 55-01 feels like a spiritual descendant of the discontinued RM 55 “Bubba Watson”. The case lines and the movement itself are very reminiscent of that model, although the RM 055 was mostly marketed as a light but sturdy golfer’s watch. The new RM55-01 is presented as a pure exercise in weight reduction. Though the price of the RM 55-01 is unavailable, it is probably unjustifiable in any tangible or intrinsic sense. But is a mechanical watch that weighs as much as a few sheets of paper extremely cool? Yes – if you can afford it. Airy construction The RM 55-01 is built with ...
Monochrome
Back for a second tenure at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jérôme Lambert’s 2025 return as CEO has brought fresh momentum to the brand. While spectacularly complex models like the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon a Stratosphere might eclipse the limelight at Watches & Wonders this year, there is a second release that deserves attention: the new Master Control Chronometre collection. […]
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors These three watches were selected because each represents a different approach to high‑end mechanical construction. Grand Seiko’s SBGZ011 demonstrates the Micro Artist Studio’s work with Spring Drive and overtly hand‑finished case and dial. Patek Philippe’s 7047G is an ultra‑complicated minute repeater masquerading within the dimensions and subtlety of a simple time‑only watch. A. Lange & [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
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Time+Tide
TAG Heuer places the new Professional 500 between a standard Aquaracer and a Superdiver, offering 500m of water resistance in slick titaniumThe post TAG Heuer’s new Aquaracer Professional 500 brings even more depth to the Aquaracer, in more ways than one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A new era for the Master Control collection with fully integrated bracelets in three new models and one new movement. The post Jaeger-LeCoultre reinvents the Master Control collection with an integrated twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How do you top ice cream? With sprinkles of course, and that's exactly what Norqain has done with its updated chono.The post Norqain adds a finishing touch with new Freedom Chrono 60 Enjoy Life “Sprinkles” models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Certain watches quietly sit in the sweet spot of the collector market. They’re not hyped, not aggressively marketed, and not yet pulled into the gravitational field of speculative pricing. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVI Spitfire ref. IW325502 is one of them. Produced in the mid-2000s, this neo-vintage pilot’s watch captures something that feels increasingly […] Visit The Quiet Sweet Spot: Why The IWC Mark XVI Spitfire Ref. IW325502 Deserves More Attention to read the full article.
Hodinkee
From pilot watches and chronographs to a ceramic model and the first-ever Portofino "Le Petit Prince" model, IWC is septupling down on its "Le Petit Prince" models over 80 years after the beloved novella's publication.
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