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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

EDITOR’S PICK: From Panerai to Piaget, Hugh Grant’s watches are a whole lot more alpha-male than you’d think Time+Tide
Panerai May 22, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: From Panerai to Piaget, Hugh Grant’s watches are a whole lot more alpha-male than you’d think

EDITOR’S PICK: I recently streamed Guy Ritchie’s The Gentlemen that delivered a welcome return to the director’s gangster comedy roots. Amid a stellar cast that includes Matthew McConaughey, Charlie Hunnam and Colin Farrell, Hugh Grant puts in a scene-stealing display as a cockney-accented private investigator. But I was distracted less by his beard than what Grant had on his … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: From Panerai to Piaget, Hugh Grant’s watches are a whole lot more alpha-male than you’d think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition Time+Tide
Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Apr 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition

Watch brand collaborations with jewellers definitely aren’t as in-vogue as they once were, but Nomos’ team-up with Ace Jewelers proves that it should be done more often, as vendors of beautiful objects clearly know how to make a great looking watch. The Club 36 range from Nomos is one of their bestsellers, as its understated … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Zach & Ricardo react to the Grand Seiko novelties (spoiler alert: they’re pretty excited…) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko novelties spoiler alert they’re Apr 1, 2022

VIDEO: Zach & Ricardo react to the Grand Seiko novelties (spoiler alert: they’re pretty excited…)

Our latest video is courtesy of the Grand Seiko novelties which caused a pretty big stir amongst the team and wider watch community with the release of the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon. Grand Seiko has decided to only make 20 of what is their most complicated piece yet. The boys also delve deep into the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Zach & Ricardo react to the Grand Seiko novelties (spoiler alert: they’re pretty excited…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience Time+Tide
MB&F; Mar 22, 2022

The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience

Usually the hottest watches of the year have huge launch events, major press conferences and keynotes, and sizable social media and marketing campaigns. But last year, like Beyonce dropping a surprise album, the team at MB&F; introduced one of the most desired timepieces of the year – except it was not a watch just anyone … ContinuedThe post The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

COLLECTING STORIES: A G-Shock CasiOak modification that pushes the Genta levels up to 11 Time+Tide
Casio ak modification Feb 22, 2022

COLLECTING STORIES: A G-Shock CasiOak modification that pushes the Genta levels up to 11

High-fashion, low rent refers to the playful relationship between the rarified objects in life with the more mass-produced and accessible. G-Shock often delivers great examples of this interplay, whether it’s Tom Sachs’ Casio G-Shock, featured in A Man & His Watch, that he customised with a Hermès-esque Cape Cod double-loop strap, or even the full metal … ContinuedThe post COLLECTING STORIES: A G-Shock CasiOak modification that pushes the Genta levels up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider Time+Tide
Tissot Feb 16, 2022

5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider

Having worked for Tissot selling their watches for two years before joining the T+T team, I’d like to think that I have a comprehensive grasp of their offering. Purchasing trends were easily noticeable during that time, but what was also apparent is that some great watches were criminally overlooked. With models such as the PRX … ContinuedThe post 5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year” Time+Tide
Jan 11, 2022

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year”

If you want to get know what makes any given watch collector tick, then it is wise to get a sense of what is in their watch collection. But if you really want to dig deeper, then its best to ask which watch they wear the most. Right before the close of 2021, the team … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater Jan 7, 2022

Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater

Most famous for its jewelled timepieces and the Astronomia, Jacob & Co. specialises in over the top watches. One of its latest is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, it’s a massive watch in the brand’s typical style of a sapphire cake dome containing a 758-component movement. While The Godfather branding on the dial is gaudy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressively complex. The Godfather repeater can chime the time with the minute repeating function and also play The Godfather theme on the miniature two-cylinder musical box within the case (see the video just below). That makes it a two-train grand complication at heart: one barrel and going train drives the triple-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and train power the music box. Initial thoughts Jacob & Co. specialises in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. The Twin Turbo Furious, for example, is one of the tamer complications the brand offers. The Godfather repeater fits right into that repertoire. It’s enormous – almost 50 mm wide and over 20 mm high – so it scores low on wearability. But it scores high on making a state on the wrist, in both aesthetics and function, which is unquestionably the point of the whole exercise. The button that activates the music box, with the slide for the repeater just below it That said, the large size is not...

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph (#24) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph #24 Dec 29, 2021

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph (#24)

Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and our team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic on the T+T website. At number 24, it’s the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph… Surely this is a … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph (#24) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - The Grand Seiko SBGW264 (#25) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW264 #25 Editor’s note Dec 27, 2021

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - The Grand Seiko SBGW264 (#25)

Editor’s note: There were an awful lot of watches released in 2021 and our team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the top 30 reviews of the year by traffic on the Time+Tide website. At number 25, it’s the Grand Seiko SBGW264… Grand Seiko never disappoints with … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Grand Seiko SBGW264 (#25) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Revisiting The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Nov 13, 2021

Revisiting The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30°

With the recent announcement that Greubel Forsey will be instituting a new program called Renaissance d’une Montre as of 2023, which will allow collectors to change anything they like about their watches, Tim Mosso finds it a good time to revisit what is perhaps the brand’s most underrated ultra haut-de-gamme option for collectors of modern watchmaking, the Double Tourbillon 30°.

Hands-On: Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” SJX Watches
Bell & Ross do Being Nov 12, 2021

Hands-On: Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”

Leaked online prior to its launch – David Beckham inadvertently revealed the watch on his Instagram account – the Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” was widely expected yet surprisingly, at least in the metal. Developed in collaboration with the combat divers of the Commando Hubert, an elite unit of the Commandos Marine, part of the special forces of the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. The divers covertly travel underwater in pairs, and the Pelagos FXD is one of the tools they use for aquatic navigation. The FXD revives the relationship Tudor maintained with the French Navy for several decades starting in the 1950s when the watchmaker first supplied the navy with dive watches. A Submariner ref. 9401/0 issued to French navy divers in the 1970s Initial thoughts I liked the idea of the FXD when I first saw the photos, and seeing it in the metal reinforced my opinion, enough that I bought one. Beyond its tangible qualities its best characteristic in my opinion is its status as the only watch developed as a military-issue timepiece – that is currently in active service with a unit – in the mid- to high-end segment of modern watchmaking. This sets the FXD apart from watches made by other brands that supply military units with civilian watches bearing the unit insignia, as brands like IWC, Breitling, and Bell & Ross do. Being a military-issue watch the FXD is straightforward, but it also boasts the attention to detail one expects from Tudor, even on the finish...

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Nov 10, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”

Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers. Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic. The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s Initial thoughts Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados. The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn...

The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph celebrates racing pilot Dario Costa’s latest jaw-dropping feat Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Oct 27, 2021

The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph celebrates racing pilot Dario Costa’s latest jaw-dropping feat

Nerves of hardened titanium. Glacial water in his veins. What would cause the rest of us mortals to cry, lose control of bodily functions, and then pass out from sheer, white-knuckled terror is just another average commute to the office for record-breaking aerobatic and racing pilot Dario Costa. And he’s just done the incredible, again.  … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph celebrates racing pilot Dario Costa’s latest jaw-dropping feat appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 Of The Best De Bethune Models In The Last 12 Months Plus Bonus Video Of The De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind Of Magic For Only Watch 2021 Quill & Pad
De Bethune Models Sep 3, 2021

5 Of The Best De Bethune Models In The Last 12 Months Plus Bonus Video Of The De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind Of Magic For Only Watch 2021

The second edition of Geneva Watch Days (August 30 through September 3, 2021) is upon the Quill & Pad team, and among the many brands Ian has looked forward to catching up with is one of his all-time favorites: De Bethune. Here are six watches the brand has recently released as seen through Ian's lens, including the brand's unique Only Watch 2021 piece.

Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic Time+Tide
MB&F; Aug 31, 2021

Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic

At first it was so strange. And it had the drama, the inevitability, of a tipping point being reached. SIHH’s changed name. Basel stumbled, fell, then disintegrated into dust. COVID-19 hit, everything stopped. Then out of these ashes, Geneva Watch Days 2020 emerged. I was unable to go, along with anyone from our Australian team, … ContinuedThe post Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 smashes my preconceptions of a Genta classic Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 Aug 5, 2021

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 smashes my preconceptions of a Genta classic

I might not be the most objective person in our team to write this story, given my well-known love affair with the slim, and, to me, sexy as hell 38mm Laureato I aim to get this year. For me this Genta-licious watch in its warm 904L steel is simply one of the best and most … ContinuedThe post The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 smashes my preconceptions of a Genta classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BUCKS IN SIX! NBA MVP Giannis Antetokounmpo celebrates victory with a Rolex Sky-Dweller Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller After Jul 23, 2021

BUCKS IN SIX! NBA MVP Giannis Antetokounmpo celebrates victory with a Rolex Sky-Dweller

After a 50-year dry spell without a championship title to their name, the Milwaukee Bucks won the 2021 NBA Finals – finally living up to the eight-year-old Brandon Jennings instigated motto: “BUCKS IN SIX”. This year’s victory, while certainly a team effort, can be largely attributed to the stellar performance of Bucks forward Giannis Antetokounmpo … ContinuedThe post BUCKS IN SIX! NBA MVP Giannis Antetokounmpo celebrates victory with a Rolex Sky-Dweller appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What watch does a veteran crocodile hunter (with only three fingers) wear? Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2021

What watch does a veteran crocodile hunter (with only three fingers) wear?

What sort of watch does a veteran Aussie crocodile hunter wear? Well, Northern Territory Problem Crocodile Management wildlife officer Tom Nichols (how’s that for a job title by the way), caught a record 352 crocodiles in 2020, and in this intriguing story and short film from ABC News he explains how he goes about hunting … ContinuedThe post What watch does a veteran crocodile hunter (with only three fingers) wear? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Jul 14, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France

Bell & Ross has long supplied timekeepers to various French military and police units, ranging from the bomb disposal team of the national civil defence agency to the tactical unit of the National Gendarmerie, GIGN. The brand was recently tapped to become the official watchmaker to the Patrouille de France, the famed aeronautics team of the Armée de l’Air et de l’Espace, the French Air and Space Force. To inaugurate the partnership, Bell & Ross has unveiled the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France, a limited edition designed in collaboration with the nine pilots of the aerobatics team. Cased in matte black ceramic, the chronograph has a dial in the colours of the French flag, along with the team logo at six o’clock. It is a 500-piece limited edition available to the public, while team members of the Patrouille de France will be issued with the same watch, but powered by a quartz movement. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross has made a variety of air force-unit watches in the past, as have other brands. Breitling, for instance, recently debuted an edition dedicated to the Red Arrows, the aerobatics team of the Royal Air Force. The Patrouille de France edition, however, stands apart in an important aspect: the members of the Patrouille de France – nine pilots and 35 engineers – are actually kitted out with an almost-identical watch. Produced in a run of 100 watches, the official-issue team watch is identical to the civilian version featured here, but it has a quartz movement ...

Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster It was only Jun 10, 2021

Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster

It was only a couple of weeks ago that we spotted a rare Rolex Submariner on Antiques Roadshow, the valuation of which left its owner with tears in his eyes. The team at Antiques Roadshow have now served up another horological treat, with a gentleman bringing in his Omega Speedmaster for the experts to study … ContinuedThe post Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Scientists Install Weather Station Atop Dormant Volcano (While Wearing a Rolex) SJX Watches
Rolex Jun 9, 2021

Scientists Install Weather Station Atop Dormant Volcano (While Wearing a Rolex)

Amongst the projects to tackle climate change that’s being supported by Rolex was the successful scientific expedition to Tupungato, a dormant volcano that’s one of the highest mountains in Americas that sits on the border of Chile and Argentina. Led by National Geographic and backed by the Chilean government, the expedition team embarked on a 15-day trek up Tupungato in early April to install a weather station just below the summit – 6,505 m above sea level – that’s the highest weather installation in the Southern and Western Hemispheres. The purpose of the expedition was, of course, not to explore the uncharted; such endeavours had their heyday in the postwar era, with Rolex keeping time for many of them. Instead the watchmaker supports scientists and conservationists on expeditions that aid understanding of climate change and its effects – all of which are part of the Perpetual Planet initative. Tupungato National Geographic A pillar of Perpetual Planet is Rolex’s partnership with National Geographic, the iconic, yellow-bordered magazine of the National Geographic Society. The partnership seeks to understand and address the impact of climate change, through expeditions and field research that harness data taken at crucial locations that are often harsh and inaccessible. The partnership’s first expedition took place in 2019, when a team travelled up Mount Everest to set up the highest-altitude weather station in the world – 8,430 m above sea level ...

Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 5, 2021

Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind

Each year the Horological Society of New York and Phillips team up to raise money to advance the art and science of horology – offering financial aid to watchmaking institutions and full-time watchmaking students in the United States. All proceeds, including the 26% buyers premium, go towards the cause, a much needed effort to help … ContinuedThe post Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux teams up Jun 2, 2021

A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges

You never really know what to expect from a brand collaboration. When I first saw that Aston Martin had teamed up with Girard-Perregaux, courtesy of the gorgeous green-liveried Formula 1 team, I assumed that we’d soon see the likes of Sebastian Vettel and Lance Stroll sporting something like a special-edition Laureato in British Racing Green. … ContinuedThe post A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… Time+Tide
Panerai take sustainability Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level…

Panerai maintains a strong focus on sustainability. This is expressed through the construction and metallurgy of their watches, right down to recycled materials for their fabric and leather straps. Their new Luminor Marina eSTEEL™ is the latest example of this valiant endeavour. Throw in Panerai’s generosity in making their own research publicly accessible and their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.