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Results for NOS (New Old Stock)

18,561 articles · 125 videos found · page 559 of 623

Collecting: the Records Explain the Watches Worn & Wound
Ming far too well acquainted Sep 30, 2026

Collecting: the Records Explain the Watches

If you follow me on Instagram, or if you know me in the real world, you’re probably aware that I’m currently in the uncomfortable but exciting process of packing up my life into a neverending series of cardboard boxes, destined for a moving truck. After several years of becoming far too well acquainted with members of the Amtrak Acela crew, I’ve decided to put those relationships on hold, and relocate to New York City. I signed a lease on a too small, too expensive Brooklyn apartment, and I honestly cannot wait to live in it. It’ll be a great opportunity to work more closely with my Worn & Wound colleagues who I see primarily in Google Meet windows and fleetingly on my office visits and to experience the watch industry from the center of it in the United States. It’ll also be fun to finally have a direct flight to Geneva (and so many other places – I will not miss you Logan International) and to have access to any kind of dumpling whenever I want.  But moving itself is not fun, and as I’ve gone through the mental and now very real exercise of figuring out what to keep and take with me, sell or give away, discard to the dumpster, or store temporarily in my childhood home with my very kind parents, I’ve thought a lot about collecting, the stuff we acquire, and how it shapes us and moves with us (or not) through life.  It goes without saying, I hope, that my watches are coming with me. They are small and easy to transport, and while I’ve sold a handful of ...

The Nezumi Voiture VM2: A Racing Chronograph That’s Here To Stay Fratello
Sep 30, 2026

The Nezumi Voiture VM2: A Racing Chronograph That’s Here To Stay

Over the past decade, we have come to know Nezumi as a creator of stylish, affordable watches. I particularly love how the Stockholm-based brand uses less common colors to make its watches stand out. Over the past year or so, Nezumi has focused on updating its collection. Last year, we saw revamped versions of the […] Visit The Nezumi Voiture VM2: A Racing Chronograph That’s Here To Stay to read the full article.

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Hodinkee
Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Sep 29, 2026

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007

For the life of me, I can't remember if I've ever owned an Alpinist. I think I did, for a little while. I know I at least borrowed one for a while, but the Alpinist was never as central to me as it has been for a lot of watch guys of my vintage (by that, I mean collectors who got into this whole thing in the late 2000s). If I did own an Alpinist, it was a brief, flirtatious affair meant to satisfy curiosity before I found my way back to the SKX (a watch I have owned many, many examples of). Still, the Alpinist — specifically the SARB017 Alpinist with its green dial, compass bezel, and gold numerals — seemed as close to omnipresent as a watch could get in my early days of collecting and learning. They made daily appearances on wristcheck channels on forums, and their sudden appearance on one of my friends' wrists was a great sign that they were becoming properly watch-enthused. It's hard to quantify the Alpinist's impact, but here's the thing: while the Alpinist may not be the Seiko thatmost watch enthusiasts collect today, if you control for "dive watch," I'd hazard a guess it's at least close. And in an era when it felt like a Seiko was the price of entry to "watch enthusiast," it was a watch that mattered. And then, it vanished. Okay, that's maybe a little dramatic. The Alpinist had a long run, and like so many of the watches Seiko introduced in the '90s and '00s, it was eventually sunsetted and, a few short years later, replaced with something that looks awfully sim...

Introducing: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Dark (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Sep 29, 2026

Introducing: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Dark (Live Pics)

What We Know Nomos Glasshütte's Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer quickly became a fan favorite among several Hodinkee editors after its early 2025 debut, and it also became a commercial winner for the brand. Since then, Nomos, known for its unique, Bauhaus-influenced contemporary designs paired with German watchmaking and value for money, has released a series of limited-edition colorways to complement its permanent collection, which includes blue, silver, and white dial options. Today, things are getting a bit darker for the Club Sport Worldtimer and a little brighter too. With more lume in more places and a deep noir dial, the new Club Sport Worldtimer Dark joins the Nomos permanent collection.  The headline is that the lume now appears on the city ring and the home time indicator, not just on the hands and number indexes as on previous iterations. The blue glow of the newly lumed locations are offset by a dark 'enamel black' dial. There's still a Nomos signature splash of color, though, with blue and red outlining the home indicator subdial, and reminding us that this is a travel watch.  The stainless steel case remains 40mm in diameter and a svelte 9.9mm thick, keeping this approachable-priced model among the thinnest world timers on the market. It also uses the same Nomos-manufactured movement (DUW 3202), featuring the brand's 'swing system' escapement developed in-house with help from the local university in Glashütte.   The Nomos world timer tracks 24 time zon...

Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Sep 28, 2026

Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Ianos, the Greek microbrand best known for its Greek history and culture-inspired dive watches like the Avyssos and the Dytis, is back with a new dive watch that was never meant to be. When Ianos introduced the Dytis last year, it was noted as the last in a trilogy of dive watches from Ianos, after which they would move on to the next thing. Well, Ianos is still mostly sticking to that story, but in the meantime, we have the Ianos Amfivios, a civilian edition of a special-edition watch Ianos produced last summer for Greece's Underwater Demolition Command. The new watch, built on the same dive-watch platform as last summer's Dytis (which TanTan went hands-on with here), is a solid next step for a brand that has iterated gently, even as it's taken big aesthetic swings in developing its collection. And truly, few, if any, other watches on the market scratch the same itch as Ianos's watches do. That said, the Amfivios is about as mass-appeal a watch as Ianos has produced, thanks to the military-demanded touches that set it apart from the Dytis. The Amfivios is, for example, the first dive watch since the original Avyssos to include any kind of scale on the rotating bezel. And where previous Ianos watches have used the small seconds subdial as a visual gag, here it is a functional subdial, with hands, markers, and everything. That's not to say Ianos has purged all that makes these watches, frankly, a little funky, though. The unique date at 12 remains, with ...

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Monterey In Ceramic Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Monterey Sep 28, 2026

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Monterey In Ceramic

What We Know The 2025 revival of the Louis Vuitton Monterey was a curious moment for the brand. Certainly influenced by a recent surge in popularity for the original LV I and LV II watches among celebrities and vintage collectors, it was a small(ish) 188-piece run (priced at $60,000) meant to show the brand was paying attention to what was happening around it. While the original LV I was a quartz watch with several complications, the brand simplified the aesthetics with the revival—gone were the complications and the distinctive, busy dial with all of its markings, as the new Monterey was time-only with a mechanical movement. But that Monterey also demonstrated the craft of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, introducing a simpler dial in grand feu enamel. While it may have seemed like a small blip in the brand's overall plans, Louis Vuitton has more to say about the pebble-like designs from 1988 by Italian architect Gae Aulenti—the Monterey Ceramic, a duo of watches that focuses on the smaller LV II. Now, the Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramics are not part of a limited edition and officially enter the brand's permanent collection. The cases are faithful to the original, preserving the model's smaller 37mm case size and both original ceramic colors: green and black. The polished, pebble-shaped case is slightly thicker at 11mm, however, because it houses the automatic LFTMA01.02 caliber rather than the original quartz movement. Like last year's Monterey, the Monterey Ceram...

Breguet Expands Marine Fleet SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 25, 2026

Breguet Expands Marine Fleet

The Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 chronograph have been with us since 2018, remaining largely unchanged even as the rest of the catalogue has been thoroughly modernised. Now, the Marine collection gets its refresh with new dials and a range of materials, from titanium to 18k rose and white gold. The Marine 5517 in titanium Initial thoughts The Marine is something of an outlier among high-end integrated bracelet sports watches, being one of the few designs that avoids the 1970s-inspired styling that dominates the segment. Instead, the Marine carries design DNA from the brand’s heritage producing marine chronometers, dressed in a suitably seaworthy case and bracelet (or rubber strap). One of the most notable design changes for the updated Marine is that the roman numerals have been retired in favour of Breguet numerals. This update gives the Marine obvious Breguet design DNA, but some may find the mix of traditional Breguet elements on the dial with the contemporary case too much of a clash. The Marine 5527 in 18k rose gold There’s little question about the overall quality of the Marine, but the pricing puts its head-to-head with popular models from Audemars Piguet, such as the Royal Oak Chronograph, which is actually $500 cheaper than the 5527 in 18k rose gold. That said, the titanium variants are priced competitively, relative to titanium sports watches of similar quality from the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Six references, with bracelet or strap A little against conv...

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Celestial Ref 6105G Plus Sep 25, 2026

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth)

We're on the eve of one of Patek Philippe's biggest events every few years: the October 2nd to the 18th presentation of the brand's Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. On Monday, I'll be flying there for a preview of the exhibition, so stay tuned for stories from that trip coming in the near future. Another story, which has been waiting in the wings and in progress for some time now, was a hands-on look at two of the most surprising (and potentially divisive) releases from Patek this year: the Cubitus perpetual calendar and the Celestial ref. 6105G. While all eyes were on the Nautilus's 50th anniversary, I thought Patek Philippe had a very interesting Watches & Wonders, at least from the perspective of bold releases and brand strategy. Truthfully, they could have done just about anything with the Nautilus, and those lucky enough to get a watch would have been happy. The Celestial alone was a wristwatch with a complication only four other brands have created. But just take a look at the two watches above and the two below. While I didn't get to see the ref. 7047G in person, it raised eyebrows for the very unusual blue tire tread-style dial (à la ref. 6007G) and remarkably strong orange accents and luminous hands and dial placed on a minute repeater that retails north of $570,000. It was perhaps so aesthetically surprising that it distracted people from the fact that Patek was honoring its past with a Calatrava-cased minute repeater reminiscent of the unique ref. 3652 and ...

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin s 30th Anniversary Overseas Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition

What We Know The hottest Vacheron Constantin collection is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this year, and the brand is paying tribute with a new version of one of my personal favorite watches from the brand. Sure, earlier this year we got the return of the 2500V, which is celebration enough, but the new limited-edition azure blue Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a limited edition that honors the first generation of the collection. Below is a picture of the current third generation and the 1996 first generation, itself a successor of sorts to the 222 in 1977 and the 1975 Chronomètre Royal before it. Yes, Vacheron has done a blue version of this watch before—and has released a few other colors recently, including a bold red—but now the same 41.5mm by 8.1mm white gold case gets a more muted, less saturated azure blue soleil and lacquer treatment, with white and light blue printed text and applied indices with Super-LumiNova. The movement is the same Caliber 1120 QP/1 automatic movement that is only 4.05 mm thick. Yes, other brands are slowly introducing perpetual calendars with a crown-adjustment system, but while this still uses caseband pushers, the benefit is a watch that measures 1.5mm thinner than the similarly wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The watch runs at a slightly slower 2.75 Hz and has only 40 hours of power reserve, but again, at the thin profile you get, the wearability should more than make up for any small downsides. Another huge benefit i...

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Longines Spirit Pilot Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics)

What We Know Not all of the releases we cover are horological heavy hitters or groundbreaking mechanical inventions. Yes, plenty are, but sometimes a simple new dial color is worth talking about. And in the context of Longines' mighty newsworthy year, with several extremely well-received launches like the Hydroconquest and the Master Collection Monopushers already in the recent catalog, a new colorway for the Spirit Pilot and Pilot Flyback still feels worth discussing. The new time-only Spirit Pilot in blue.Image, courtesy Longines. The second iteration of these two watches, since its update last year, introduces a matte blue dial (and a glossy blue ceramic bezel insert on the chronograph). At a high level, that's kind of it. But with the change from a gilt-style look, swapping the golden accents of the applied numerals, chapter ring chamfer, and printing, this is the first time the latest generation of Spirit Pilot feels like a decidedly modern product. Yes, you lose a little bit of the vintage charm, but the new versions are not replacing those "gilt" editions, so now you have the same models in two very different aesthetic contexts. I won't spend too much time on specs because they remain unchanged—the time-only Spirit Pilot is 39mm by 11.5mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47.2mm, and the Flyback chronograph is 39.5mm by 13.4mm with a lug-to-lug of 47.4mm. The time-only model features the automatic L888.4 caliber, which is COSC-certified and offers a 72-hour power reserve with...

The Makina Azazel_I Outgrows Local Time And Adds A GMT Complication Fratello
Sep 24, 2026

The Makina Azazel_I Outgrows Local Time And Adds A GMT Complication

A little over a year ago, I reviewed the Makina Azazel_I. This futuristic-looking watch from the young Filipino brand features clever design tricks that make it hard to forget. And now, a year on, Makina is presenting a new version of the Azazel_I that keeps the same concept but integrates a GMT complication in a […] Visit The Makina Azazel_I Outgrows Local Time And Adds A GMT Complication to read the full article.

Introducing: The Newly Revamped Breguet Marine 5517 Time-and-Date And 5527 Chronograph Hodinkee
Breguet Marine 5517 Time-and-Date Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: The Newly Revamped Breguet Marine 5517 Time-and-Date And 5527 Chronograph

What We Know A refresh of Breguet's Marine line, inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet's history of marine chronometers and scientific instruments, has been coming for some time now. If you've been following the sometimes sweeping, sometimes subtle, almost always welcome changes to Breguet's catalog over the last few years (and especially last year during the brand's year-long 250th fête), you knew the Marine was one of the few stones left unturned.  While the Experimentale 1 (a groundbreaking achievement) launched a new design language for the Marine last year, today's refresh is more subtle. The first thing that you probably will notice is that the eponymous "Breguet" numerals now replace the Roman ones on the previous models. But wait. There's more. Previous versions of both models had either soleil finishing centered around the boxed brand name (and number) or a larger, irregular wave guilloché, depending on the execution. In both new models, the watches now feature the new, finer "Quai de l'Horloge" guilloché pattern launched to honor the brand's 250th Anniversary last year, with a circular brushed hour track. Rather than just doing the same dial treatment for each case material, regardless of the complication, the brand has a mix of dials ranging from blue (in different shades) to grey and black. In general, the case material matches the tone of the hands, but there is an exception. The cases and movements have remained largely the same, 42.3mm by 13.9mm with a 50.7m...

Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style? Fratello
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Sep 24, 2026

Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style?

Just before summer, Glashütte Original invited us to its manufacture in eastern Germany. It was a great way for me to get to know the brand a little better. But the most important reason for the visit was the presentation of a few new releases. Jorg will cover the new Seventies collection in a separate […] Visit Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style? to read the full article.

The Business of Watches Podcast: Czapek & Cie. CEO And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel Hodinkee
Czapek & Cie CEO Sep 23, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Czapek & Cie. CEO And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel

This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with the business leader who has headed the reborn Czapek & Cie. brand for more than a decade now. Xavier de Roquemaurel didn't come from the watch industry when he co-founded Czapek with fellow entrepreneur Harry Guhl, with help from watchmaker Sébastien Follonier, in 2015.  He's had to learn the industry on the job, and while Czapek burst on the scene by winning the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Public Prize in its debut year in 2016, the company and de Roquemaurel have faced plenty of challenges along the way. From the novel financing and shareholder model they created to fund the startup, to reckoning with a massive surge of back orders for their popular Antarctique integrated bracelet sports watch model during the boom times of the post-pandemic era, as well as serious health and medical ordeals. Reconsidering all the tests he and the company have faced, de Roquemaurel says he now believes that "adversity gets the best out of you." Today, Czapek has just opened a new boutique on the historic Quai des Bergues in Geneva on the same banks of the Rhône River where François Czapek himself had his first atelier in the 1800s. In a wide-ranging interview, the Czapek CEO traces both the path of the reborn brand and how it has found inspiration in the legacy of the watchmaker who opened what is believed to be the first watch boutique on Place de Vendôme in Paris while producing timepieces for Napoleon III and t...

Girard-Perregaux Presents a Pair of Laureato Watches for the Williams F1 Team Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Presents Sep 22, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Presents a Pair of Laureato Watches for the Williams F1 Team

Last month, Girard-Perregaux announced its latest involvement in the Formula 1 scene with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team. We knew a collaborative watch would soon follow, and the moment has unfolded. Here, we get the debut duo of watches in the new Laureato Williams Edition lineup. If you’ve been reading my take on timepieces for a while, you know I’m a longtime fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. In the vast world of integrated bracelet sport watches, I’ve always found it to be one of the most refined and easily dressed up while remaining subtle and effortless enough for daily wear. With these new interpretations of the iconic design for the Atlassian Williams F1 Team, we get some of the sportiest takes on the model, proving the Laureato offers a versatile canvas that can truly embody both the “luxurious” and “sporty” sides of the luxury sport watch. As the brand’s flagship line, the Laureato has long served as the foundation for Girard-Perregaux’s collaborations and has taken many sizes, styles, and shapes over the years. However, the choice of this particular collection for the debut models in partnership with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team runs deeper. The Laureato was born in 1975, and the Atlassian Williams F1 Team was born just two years later in 1977, giving the duo roughly 50 years of shared history and evolution. Girard-Perregaux brings us two iterations for its inaugural line honoring the partnership: a chronograph alongside a classic time an...

Introducing:  Chopard Brings Back The Original Happy Diamonds And Happy Sport Hodinkee
Chopard Brings Back Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Chopard Brings Back The Original Happy Diamonds And Happy Sport

What We Know This year marks 50 years since Chopard first "set diamonds free." Which sounds a little cheesy, admittedly, but there is something genuinely joyful about the conceit: diamonds allowed to skitter and spin around a watch dial, never quite landing in the same place twice. Introduced in 1976, the original Happy Diamonds placed unset diamonds inside individual gold capsules, allowing them to move between two sapphire crystals rather than remaining fixed to the dial. The idea reportedly came from sunlight dancing across a waterfall spray in Germany's Black Forest. It would become one of Chopard's most recognizable signatures. To celebrate the anniversary, Chopard is returning to two pivotal moments in the collection's history: the earliest Happy Diamonds watches from 1976 and the original Happy Sport, designed in 1993 by Caroline Scheufele, Chopard's Co-President and Artistic Director. The Chopard Happy Diamonds Heritage watch in 34mm. The smaller version, measuring 24mm. The new Happy Diamonds Heritage watches are direct re-editions of those first models, with cushion-shaped cases in 18-carat ethical yellow gold and polished black onyx dials. Two sizes are available, just as there were in 1976. The larger measures 34mm by 34mm and contains 21 moving diamonds. Inside is Chopard's hand-wound caliber 10.01-C, a tiny 15.7mm-wide movement introduced in 2024. Visible through the sapphire caseback, it runs at 3Hz and offers 45 hours of power reserve. The smaller 24mm vers...

Introducing: Marathon x Watches of Espionage Titanium SAR Hodinkee
Ming from Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Marathon x Watches of Espionage Titanium SAR

What We Know Marathon Watches, the Canadian watch brand best known for its line of military-issued and -inspired watches, and Watches of Espionage, the online journal that has made a name for itself exploring the very tangible connection between watches and militaries around the world, have teamed up to launch a new watch that's sure to grab attention: The Marathon x W.O.E. Titanium SAR. The new watch, which officially launches this Thursday, includes a host of firsts for both Marathon and Watches of Espionage. For Watches of Espionage, which launched five years ago and is run by a secretive (some might say "sketchy") former CIA Case officer, the Marathon x W.O.E. Titanium SAR is a first venture into the world of collaborative watches. For Marathon, the fourth-generation family-run company with a slightly longer history than Watches of Espionage, the Marathon x W.O.E. Titanium SAR is the brand's first foray into titanium watches. On the surface, the new watch won't seem like much of a departure for Marathon, especially to those familiar with the brand's past offerings. The new watch draws heavily on the original Marathon SAR, first released in 2001, but modernizes the package and brings Grade 5 titanium to the table for the first time. Like other SAR watches from Marathon (such as the GSAR, TSAR, or OSAR-D), the new watch measures 41mm across, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 14mm thick, with much of that thickness coming from the toothy bezel. Just because this watch feels familiar d...

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering Hodinkee
Panerai Honors Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering

What We Know Don't call it a comeback—they've been here for years, but if today's release is any indication, Panerai seems on the verge of "having a moment," or whatever you'd call it in a hyper-masculine, intensely Italian way. The feedback for a while, even from people who love the brand, is that the brand (which was on the forefront or even progenitor of the large watch trend that dominated the early 2000s) hadn't adapted as well or as quickly as big watch brands. Size was one sticking point; price another. Privately, I have heard multiple people say that if Panerai could fight it out closer to Tudor pricing, they'd be printing money at a new clip. Today, the brand is showing that it's listening, with three new (and newly smaller) 42mm Luminors at an attractive price. Let's go back to 1993, to the pre-Vendome days of Panerai. Brand representatives stood aboard the Italian destroyer Durand de la Penne (D560) to revive the Luminor's design language—the big case, bold numerals, and unusual crown lock—and bring it to a civilian audience. The original references, Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A and Luminor Marina Militare ref. 5218-202/A, became collectible icons, and the latter was revived last year with the PAM05218, in a 44mm case with a new automatic movement. If you looked closely at that caliber—the P.980 with hours, minutes, and hacking seconds—you'd see it was small enough to fit in an even smaller case. Yes, it's similar in architecture to a few in-group IWC and B...

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid (Live Pics) Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie Off-Grid Live Sep 21, 2026

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid (Live Pics)

What We Know Last year, I wrote about Moser's interesting play in its ongoing partnership with Formula 1 team Alpine Motorsports, when it introduced a pair of Streamliners, including its first ana-digi effort in the Streamliner Mechanics Edition. Developed with Sequent, a Swiss watch brand focused on producing its own self-charging smartwatches, Moser revealed this (not self-charging) new Streamliner as a connected watch for the Alpine mechanics team. For the general public, Moser released a 500-piece run of the Mechanics Edition watch. That edition was evidently successful enough for Moser to follow up with two new references of this ana-digi Streamliner, in a collection called the Off-Grid. And yes, the irony is not lost on me that any of Moser's mechanical creations are, in principle, way more "off-grid" than a watch you need to recharge. Moser leans into that kind of stuff, and it wouldn't be surprising to me if this was at least partially tongue-in-cheek. But I digress. The Streamliner silhouette on these new Off-Grid watches, with a diameter of 42.6mm and height of 14.4mm, certainly should feel familiar at this point. The diameter seems intimidating, but there is a very compact lug-to-lug fit here, given that there are no lugs to really speak of; rather, the strap attaches directly to the case (see how it looks on my 6.5" wrist). There are two versions here, both in steel—one with a blue PVD coating and one with black. The blue PVD version, which feels much more in...

Introducing: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue' Limited Edition Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 Arabic Blue Sep 21, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue' Limited Edition

What We Know It's likely that very few people, save the Grand Seiko diehards, remember the first manually winding 9S caliber in the GS collection. A distinction within a distinction, it did set the stage for a number of deeply loved models and the eventual development of one of my favorite movements, the relatively recent 9SA4. But back in 2001, Grand Seiko launched the SBGW003, a relatively simple-looking watch with an opaline white dial and distinctive applied gold numerals. It might seem a bit anachronistic, but that's why Grand Seiko is honoring the 25th anniversary with a very modernized homage, the Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue.' To be fair, the new SBGW325 looks so much newer because the original was also a tribute to the past, furthering the aesthetic divide. Now, the watch features a deep navy blue dial inspired by Japan's indigo craft heritage, with silver-toned hands and indices, including the distinctive applied numerals to honor the original. There's also a touch of gold, a reference to the original indices, I'd imagine, with the central seconds hand and GS logo. The serif on the numerals seems to have been softened a bit as well. The Zaratsu-polished stainless steel case measures 37.3mm by 11.7mm with a 44.3mm lug-to-lug, capped by a box-style crystal. The watch is limited to a 30m water resistance but comes with a display caseback through which you can see the 9S64 caliber movement. That gives a 72-hour power reserve running at 4Hz. But overall, the watch ma...

Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Icons Sep 21, 2026

Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

Icons are icons for a reason. Some watches deserve the moniker, no question about it. But quite often, an icon casts a long shadow on other interesting timepieces in a brand’s catalog. The original Genta-designed Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has always overshadowed the Royal Oak Offshore. Due to the Offshore’s large size, bold styling, and […] Visit Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References — Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore to read the full article.

The IWC Ingenieur Celebrates a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
IWC Ingenieur Celebrates Sep 16, 2026

The IWC Ingenieur Celebrates a Big Anniversary

The watch industry, as we know, never misses an opportunity to celebrate a milestone. This week marks 50 years of Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur, a watch that has existed in a variety of forms over the years, but was relaunched a few years ago in a widely celebrated new guise that feels almost spiritually connected to the original. The new limited editions released this week by IWC are available in both the standard 40mm size and the newer, more compact 35mm case, both with dials that play up the design’s inherent starkness.  The Ingenieur’s dial is most commonly associated with a distinctive grid pattern, but these LEs depart from that playbook for a dial that feels very metallic with vertical brushing and silver plating. It’s a reference, according to IWC, to an obscure Ingenieur reference from the original launch in 1976.  I’m struck by how simple and muted this dial is for a limited edition. We’ve been trained, I think, to think that special releases and limited editions should be louder than this, and recontextualize a watch into something that couldn’t exist in the main collection. This dial execution is about as simple as it gets, and while it presents quite differently than the mainline Ingenieurs with patterned dials, it wouldn’t be a challenge at all to imagine this watch as a permanent part of the IWC collection. It’s a clear play to history, which of course is fitting and expected for a 50th anniversary watch. It’s nice but maybe not particularl...

E.C. Andersson Introduces the Timepod, with a Unique Lug Release System Worn & Wound
Sep 16, 2026

E.C. Andersson Introduces the Timepod, with a Unique Lug Release System

The Swedish brand E.C. Andersson is one of my favorite “IYKYK” watchmakers. They had a modest hit a few years ago with their Mytilus, at least among a very specific type of watch collector who was ahead of the curve on the current trend for industrially finishished, retro-futuristic designs in odd case shapes that are having a moment right now (see: Otsuka Lotec and others). What makes E.C. Andersson compelling to me though is not just their aesthetic and design language, which is certainly very interesting, but their business model, and what they actually do as a brand. They are, essentially, a machine shop, fabricating cases and other components from their own designs, and selling watches off a reservation system. Interested parties add their names to a list, and when a watch is available, you get an email letting you know your watch is ready.  Their new watch, introduced this week, is called the Timepod, and like the Mytilus before it, the case (and crystal integration) set the design apart and make it unique. The quirkiest thing about the Timepod is the lug release system, which allows the user to detach the wire lugs via the push of a button on the caseband. The lugs simply pop out of the square shaped case and (presumably) reattach easily by hand. E.C. Andersson says the system is specifically designed to inhibit debris from entering the case while still allowing ease of access to the movement and other components in the event a service is needed.  Is this lug ...

Singer Reimagines 1970s-Style Sports Watch SJX Watches
Singer Sep 16, 2026

Singer Reimagines 1970s-Style Sports Watch

Having formed its brand identity with a cushion-shaped case inspired by 1970s designs, Singer Reimagined is now turning to another facet of that decade’s designs. The 1970 Dualtrack is angular with tall bezel and semi-integrated bracelet, marking an entirely new design language for the brand, which is an offshoot of cult “restomod” automaker Singer Vehicle Design. Like the earlier version of the model, the 1970 Dualtrack is a twin time zone watch with a “caller” GMT indicated via a 24-hour ring. It’s powered by an unusual movement with four spaced out barrels that combine for a six day power reserve. Initial thoughts The 1970 is a natural extension of Singer’s retro style that’s conceptually logical, but also appealing in terms of product. The new case design is wearable and also different enough from the cushion-shaped case to make it distinct. If anything, the 1970 might be too ordinary, making it less recognisable as a Singer creation. That said, the design is thoughtful. The attention to the detail in the design reflects Singer founder Marco Borracino’s background as a designer. The angular case has polished, chamfered edges that continue into the bracelet, while the polished bezel has high, fluted sides. It’s clearly inspired by the 1970s, but executed to a higher level than actual 1970s watches in this style that tended to be entry-level timepieces. And compared to the cushion-shaped cases that defined Singer until now, the new 1970 case is more c...

Do You Have a Soft Spot For The Rubber-Clad Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch? Fratello
Breguet Sep 16, 2026

Do You Have a Soft Spot For The Rubber-Clad Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch?

The rubber-clad Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch is a montre à tact, but not as you know it. The original tactile watch was invented by Breguet in 1799. It was a pocket watch featuring a hand that could be touched, allowing one to read/feel the time. You can touch the new Big Bang all […] Visit Do You Have a Soft Spot For The Rubber-Clad Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch? to read the full article.

Auctions: Six Observations From Sotheby's September 18 Hong Kong Sale Hodinkee
Ming Sep 15, 2026

Auctions: Six Observations From Sotheby's September 18 Hong Kong Sale

Ready or not, auction season is back. I don't know about you, but I wasn't expecting it so soon. While the auction cycle is generally synced up for Geneva and New York sales a bit later in the fall, Sotheby's is doing the earliest big sale of the fall with "Important Watches" in Hong Kong on September 18.  Personally, I'm still working through the best way to handle auction coverage, as the number of watches is often daunting. That challenge gets worse with Hong Kong sales, which we've generally struggled to stay on top of for a number of reasons. One of which, and this is a complaint for all auction houses, is that there are too many lots in Hong Kong sales. This is driven by both the market location (many of these watches were sourced locally—something I know because I know a decent number of these watches) and the forces behind the auction house and its metrics. Sometimes you have to make sellers happy and take what they want to get at other things (like taking random Hermès bags in a watch sale, as we see this time). It can be overwhelming for a buyer, and for you and me as readers. I want to find the interesting, great deals in the mid- and low-range and share them with you, but I also can't ignore the impressive pieces that might shape the broader market. One important note: for Hong Kong sales, I never get to see the watches in person. It's a lot easier for me to stand in front of a case of watches and pick things up by feel, closely evaluate condition and origi...

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection Monochrome
Sep 15, 2026

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection

Founded by Toni Brodführer, DUG Glashütte focuses on producing watches in accordance with the requirements of the Glashütte designation of origin, and the inaugural Purist was conceived as a straightforward proposition built around the traditions of Saxon watchmaking. The brand is now expanding the collection with a smaller case. The new Purist 37 retains the […]

Introducing: The IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Editions (Live Pics) Hodinkee
IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Sep 15, 2026

Introducing: The IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Editions (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, to mark 50 years of Gérald Genta's Ingenieur SL design, IWC has released two limited-edition modern Ingenieur revival models in stainless steel. Both versions feature the same new dial design in the main 40mm size and a smaller 35mm case. It's a tribute to IWC's slice of Genta history, a throwback to 1976, when Genta's design of the Ingenieur SL, ref. 1832, was first born. The original integrated-bracelet "Jumbo" Ingenieur SL's 40 mm size was ambitious for its time, and sadly the market did not reward it—the release was a commercial failure. IWC notes that it made only 598 pieces between the Ingenieur SL's launch in 1976 and 1983. But today, given the public's general affinity for Genta's iconic integrated-bracelet designs, the fiftieth anniversary of the SL design may be well timed. It references a more obscure dial variant of the Jumbo SL, one with a vertically brushed silver-plated dial rather than the more familiar grid pattern. The exhibition caseback of the 35mm model. In this modern iteration, the specs remain identical to the current 40mm and 35mm models, with the 35mm featuring an exhibition caseback to showcase the Caliber 47110 inside. The 40mm model, with its IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber, has a closed caseback and a soft-iron inner case for increased magnetic-field protection. In a nod to the anniversary, a "50" is printed right below the Ingenieur logo at 6 o'clock, where the "SL" would have been on the original. Each reference is limi...