Hodinkee
Ben Clymer Presents: Ep. 04 – The Vintage Rolex Episode With Geoff Hess
Sotheby's Head of Watches Americas and the founder of Rolliefest on vintage Rolex – buy, sell, hold, and the enduring allure of the Big Crown Sub.
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Worn & Wound
Citizen Super Titanium™ Holiday Gift Guide
If you’re anything like us, a few big holiday meals can have you feeling pretty heavy. Luckily, your wrist doesn’t have to feel the same way, and that’s thanks to an incredibly solid lineup of titanium watches from Citizen. If you’ve never handled a titanium watch before, you’re in for a treat. The metal is almost shockingly light, but still retains a premium feel and can be finished in the same way as steel. All the benefits of a metal watch, with a much lighter feel on the wrist. Of all the brands out there, Citizen has embraced titanium the most, with a complete lineup of interesting watches that appeal to a broad range of tastes. Citizen doesn’t use just any titanium, but one of their own creation. Super Titanium is Citizen’s approach to maintaining a pristine appearance on the elements of their watch by applying their proprietary surface-hardening technology that they call Duratect to create a watch that is five times harder and 40% lighter than stainless steel. Typically, titanium is more prone to scratches and this addition of surface hardening ensures that the watch stays free from nicks and scratches. Today, we’re taking a closer look at seven Citizens-curated by Worn & Wound’s editorial team-all crafted from their own proprietary lightweight, durable, and comfortable Super Titanium. The post Citizen Super Titanium™ Holiday Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1
In the big wide world of watches, there is nothing quite like a Ressence. The Belgium-based brand has made its name through futuristic designs that utilize co-planar revolving discs and other dial elements to create a cohesive and interesting time-telling experience. In the brand’s lineup, the Type 1 Round is positioned as the foundation and the most distilled vision of what Ressence stands for. The new Type 1° M, however, reveals a playful side that has not been seen before. Out with the staid black and gray tones for which the brand has been so well known for; it’s time for some color. The Type 1 Round’s case is, well, round, and measures 42.7mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and 11mm thick. It is made of Grade 5 Titanium and does away with a traditional crown (more on winding in a moment). The dial is in the classic Ressence regulator style and displays days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Without a number in sight, which is which? On this multi-colored version it’s a little easier to ascertain: the blue chapter ring along the edge of the dial marks the seconds while the green dial tracks the hours. Yellow is for running seconds, and the red segmented ring marks the days of the week with the two outlined sections representing the weekend. Under the hood, Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) enables the modules for the hours, minutes, seconds, and days to continuously revolve around one another. The movement is based on a (heavily) modified ETA-2892 and runs...
Time+Tide
Casio’s tough new G-SHOCK Mudman GW-9500 is a no-fuss tool watch, in the best way possible
It's tough, big and full of features - but this no-nonsense G-SHOCK is also surprisingly handsome.The post Casio’s tough new G-SHOCK Mudman GW-9500 is a no-fuss tool watch, in the best way possible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Chronoswiss Delphis: Taking it to the Next Level
Martin Green has been a big fan of Chronoswiss since the 1990s and thought it tough to improve any of their models. However, the new Delphis, Chronoswiss has clearly taken things to the next level.
Video
Can You Believe He Wrote A Book About This...
Time+Tide
A 1946 Patek Philippe just became the highest-value watch ever sold in Australia
A yellow gold Patek Philippe ref. 1436 sold for A$450,000 - a big result for Australia, but how does that compare internationally?The post A 1946 Patek Philippe just became the highest-value watch ever sold in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Enthusiast Spotlight: Exploring the Never-ending Allure of Music and Time with Guitarist Tom Laskey and the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente
When most people hear the phrase ‘professional musician,’ their brains conjure images of bright lights, big stages, and screaming crowds. But the reality of how your favorite songs came to be and how your next favorite song will reach your ears is decidedly more complicated and interesting than that. We explore ‘variations on a theme’ with guitarist Tom Laskey and a trio of NOMOS Glashütte Tangentes, each expressing a slightly different riff on the same playful, yet purposeful melody. To deliver a hit, a group of talented, hardworking musicians spend countless hours in dimly lit studios experimenting and iterating, bringing all of their knowledge and skills to the table over and over again, finally discovering the right combination of elements. And it’s this spirit of repetition and reinvention that somehow distills every song you’ve ever heard out of the same basic elements, surprising and moving you anew each time. It’s not unlike the art of watchmaking. The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Exploring the Never-ending Allure of Music and Time with Guitarist Tom Laskey and the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Time+Tide team pick their favourite Dubai Watch Week 2023 releases
The final big watch fair of 2023 brought some great novelties - here are our favourites.The post The Time+Tide team pick their favourite Dubai Watch Week 2023 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An Eye on Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong
Our favourite segments in Phillips’ Hong Kong sale on November 24 and 25 are artisanal and form watches, independents of course, and now complications. We round up a selection of nine notable complicated watches, including two special-order Patek Philippe masterpieces, a ref. 3974P with Breguet numerals and a ref. 5004P Michael Ovitz special. The list also includes vintage complications, like the well-preserved Rolex ref. 6062 yellow gold “Stelline”. And also some big value buys in a literal sense: the 48 mm Panerai PAM00350 “Lo Scienzato” skeleton tourbillon and the 44 mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication, both estimated at a fraction of their retail price. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 839: Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica “Lo Scienziato” PAM00350 Panerai paid tribute to astronomer Galileo Galilei in 2010 with the PAM00350 “Lo Scienziato”, one of the most complicated watches made by the brand. It was a Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramic powered by the in-house cal. P.2005/S – a skeletonised movement executed in a distinctly modern style with the base plate and brides open worked in a grid and finished entirely in matte black. The aesthetics of the P.2005/S movement make the PAM00350 arguably one of the few Panerai models that successfully blended a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic with the historical Pa...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On With the Iridescent New Oris ProPilot X Laser
Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way. The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch. We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique color...
Video
Three Stunning Vintage Watches That Won’t Break The Bank | IN THE METAL
Worn & Wound
TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000
Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly that. It’s incredible considering that 40 years have gone by since Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision became a reality. Story has it that Ibe began to conceptualize what a truly shock-resistant watch could be when his own mechanical watch fell and shattered on the ground after a collision with a fellow pedestrian. In the early 1980s, a specialized team at Casio, nicknamed “Team Tough”, began to test and develop prototypes. During this time, Ibe famously found inspiration from a rubber ball on a playground. Eventually engineers incorporated this rubber core idea into the very first G-Shock, model DW-5000C, in 1983. Four decades of innovation and iteration later, Casio is proud to present the culmination of the latest and greatest in technology, material science, and coloration: The 40th Anniversary Full Carbon 5000 Limited Edition. Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly...
Quill & Pad
Livestream 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Follow Watchmaking’s Biggest Night Right Here
The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm Central European Time on Thursday the 10th of November. Follow the big night live on Quill & Pad.
Time+Tide
Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result
When a big auction house presents their latest catalogue of lots, it is expected that it will be filled with various Rolex and Patek Philippe watches. But, it is not an everyday occurence for two incredibly rare and historically significant watches from the likes of George Daniels and Roger W. Smith to pop up – … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps
It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covered with several leather-paired watches that fit the fall theme and are ready to slip under that cozy sweater you’ve been looking forward to wearing all year. It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covere...
Time+Tide
Longines x Otis Hope Carey is a stylish and significant Australian watch collaboration
It's perhaps the ultimate example of how radically simply changing the strap on a watch can transform its look - as well as a big moment for the Australian watch scene.The post Longines x Otis Hope Carey is a stylish and significant Australian watch collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Invicta Pro Diver Review, Horology & Oris Book Haul & Timex Navi Harbor Unboxing
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: The Golden Age Of Boucheron Wristwatches
Why a jewelry-first brand from Paris might be the next big thing in watch collecting.
Time+Tide
New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more
For this week’s selection, we have a healthy mix of incredible timepieces from the highest echelons of watchmaking, and more cheerful collaborations that give the world of watches a more joyful edge. After years of competition between the big brands for the lightest watch, we have a new player in this race, with independent darling … ContinuedThe post New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made
If you spend enough time writing about watches, you’ll eventually be nearly blinded to all of the press releases touting world records of some kind. Sometimes it feels like a month doesn’t go by that a brand isn’t touting a watch that is the thinnest ever, the lightest ever, the most water resistant ever, the most complicated, and various permutations and combinations of all the above. Almost always, these record setters come from big brands, with years of research and untold amounts of historical backing behind them. So it was with considerable interest that we saw a message from Ming earlier this week, advising that they’ve just made the lightest mechanical wristwatches ever. Or, they probably have. A “record” wasn’t exactly claimed, but the watches are really, really light. The LW.01 emerges from their Special Projects Cave, the skunkworks operation that sees Ming doing their most experimental work. The goal here was to simply make the lightest watch they could using the resources available to them, while keeping it wearable and practical in the manner of other Mings. The process took years, but the result is a (possible) record breaker that, somewhat astoundingly, is still immediately recognizable as a Ming first and foremost. With ultrathin and ultralight watches, the process always seems to start with case construction, as this is a component of the watch where mass can most easily be engineered away. The LW.01 forgoes traditional case construction ...
SJX Watches
Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385
Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made. Initial thoughts The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment. Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ceramic-Cased Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT 'Dark Grey'
A lightweight adaptation of Omega's big and burly dive GMT.
Video
It's Back! - Oris Aquis 39.5mm Review - Is It Still The Best Swiss Automatic Dive Watch Under $2000?
Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces a New Ceramic Compound to their Collection and Puts a Titanium Movement in the New Planet Ocean
The Lightness Wars continue today with the release of the new Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey, a ceramic dive watch with a GMT complication that isn’t just another ceramic sports watch. The new reference is filled with technological advancements on the materials and watchmaking fronts that Omega claims give it an improved strength to weight ratio compared to prior watches made from similar materials. Omega’s first big innovation here is the use of silicon nitride ceramic for the case, a lighter ceramic compound that is also very robust. Omega claims it is two times lighter than the Zircon ceramic used throughout the rest of their catalog, and according to their spec sheet the watch weighs in at 107 grams. The color of the case is a cool grey, and seems clearly intended to evoke the tactical lightweight feel of titanium. The other (and perhaps more significant) feature of the new Seamaster is that the dial and movement are both made from titanium, which goes a long way to reducing the total weight of the watch. The movement inside is the Master Chronometer Calibre 8906, which of course has been given the full METAS treatment. All that titanium on the inside and fancy ceramic on the outside will hopefully lead to featherweight wearing experience, because this watch is big by any standard. The case measures 45.5mm in diameter and 17.4mm tall. The lug to lug measurement is 51.5mm, which seems almost reasonable given the hefty diameter. It’s a Planet Ocean, so water re...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack
One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic. Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...
Hodinkee
Happenings: New York's Biggest Horological Weekend Returns October 20–22
The annual WatchTime New York and Windup Watch Fair anchor the biggest weekend for watches in the Big Apple.
SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert
After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Fratello × Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax
Big, bold, and brown. This new release has a lot to love if you're looking for a pilot's chronograph.
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