Revolution
The Rules of (Chronograph) Engagement
Demystifying chronograph movements, along with a balanced view on the horizontal vs vertical clutch debate.
3,802 articles · 8 videos found · page 56 of 127
Revolution
Demystifying chronograph movements, along with a balanced view on the horizontal vs vertical clutch debate.
Deployant
We received a Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Flag review loaner for a fortnight to try out. Here is our report after the 2 weeks as our daily driver.
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow appreciates brands that work hard to build their heritage and carve a niche for themselves with solid daily-wear watches while having fun with the occasional haute horlogerie piece, especially if that brand is an independent. And if it's an American brand that makes its watches out of a small shop in Pennsylvania, all the better. Here Joshua reviews the new RGM Model 600 Chronograph, a robust and affordable chronograph suitable as a daily wearer.
SJX Watches
A watchmaker that was once a prominent maker of chronographs, Minerva is the star in Montblanc’s mountain. Since the pen-turned-watchmaker took over Minerva, it has launched several chronographs powered by Minerva calibres. The flagship chronograph is arguably the mono-pusher split-second first launched in bronze two years ago. Montblanc has since rolled out several additional iterations, but in affordable alloys like titanium. Now the brand has finally unveiled the first precious-metal version, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 in “Lime Gold”. Initial thoughts Two qualities often distinguish the great from the good in chronographs – a balanced, attractive dial combined with an intricate, good-looking movement – and all the better if the watch is priced well. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph is, by the two measures, a high performer. Let’s begin with the aesthetics. While splendid looking movements with high technical content are rare, it’s even less common combined with good design on the front. That is why I appreciate the 1858 chronograph – the dial is well done, with the positions of the counters just right, giving it a rare finesse. And even though the dial is busy, the many elements are harmoniously arranged. Admittedly, the design is not new, it’s essentially a replica of early 20th century dials, but Montblanc reproduced it just right. The counters at the sweet spot, not too far from the edge of the dial The movement is simil...
Time+Tide
Finally, after a five-year hiatus, my inner petrolhead is awakened from its slumber, and by a watch! I will not bore you with my younger days of owning British sports cars from the Triumph GT6 to a Lotus Elan to a lovely series 1 Jaguar XJ6 from 1970 with dark blue leather seats. But one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Chronoswiss releases a new skeletonised Opus Chronograph Flag is an updated edition of a true Chronoswiss classicin accents of blue, white and red.
Time+Tide
Omega is famous for being the official timekeeper of the Olympics and many other sporting events around the world. Their latest release, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph, is a fitting tribute to the 36th America’s Cup. To celebrate this intense sailing event, Omega decided to do more than dress up an existing … ContinuedThe post Omega introduces new quick change straps with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I have been a huge fan of Kurono watches since their introduction. Master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka should be applauded for the brand’s mission of trying to make high-quality timepieces more accessible to consumers. What really makes Kurono so intriguing, beyond these more approachable price points, is the design language utilised across the various lines. This … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bulgari’s race to the flattest started in 2014, when it started unveiling one complication after another of record-setting slimness, culminating with the thinnest-ever automatic chronograph two years ago. While the original version is monochromatic and all titanium, the new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium is a twist on the theme. It’s fitted to an integrated rubber strap, in a first for the model that leaves it even more featherweight. Initial thoughts Admittedly – at least from a technical standpoint – the new Octo chronograph isn’t as exciting as it was when the model was first launched. This is just a facelift, but it’s a good one. Though similar to earlier versions of the Octo chronograph, the new model stands out for its palette, which arguably gives it more wrist presence. The original version has an integrated metal bracelet that flowed well in terms of visual continuity. But the strap is compelling for the opposite reason: it makes the extra-thin case stand out, increasing the visual contrast while making the watch look a bit fancier. The elimination of the bracelet will surely change its tangible feel on the wrist substantially. Because of the lightweight materials – a titanium case and strap in rubber – the watch will feel almost non-existent on wrist, taking the ultra-thin nature of the Octo one step forward. And like the time-only version of the Octo, the Chronograph is fairly priced in most iterations. This costs US$17,200, making i...
Time+Tide
The vintage vibe already seems strong this year as we clearly see in new releases from Big Box brands and microbrands alike. So what’s happened to the modern, rugged sports chronograph, a staple of any decent watch collection? Well, have a look at the Sirrush Corbetti. Here’s a microbrand debut that just might possess that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When you observe the collective offerings across conglomerate brands, many of the watches you find are familiar takes on the same old formats and profiles. This has opened some room for micro-brands to rise and introduce watches with more striking aesthetics – bringing refreshing and distinct timepieces to market that often deliver incredible value for … ContinuedThe post Light years ahead: The CODE41 NB24 Chronograph delivers futuristic looks with a featherlight build appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The term “luxury sports watch” is often an overused clichè. But the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph leaves you in no doubt of its intentions. A bold case combined with serious swagger and eye-popping green accents makes it a bright spark of contemporary design in a world of homage watches. Shy it ain’t. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph is set to be one of the boldest sports watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The expression “luxury sports watch” is often hideously misused and exaggerated. But here the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph leaves you in no doubt. Serious swagger and hyper-fresh pops of green are the order of the day to bring a bright spark of sharp contemporary design into a world of vintage homage. First … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph brings green lasers to a gun fight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched alongside the Chronomaster Sport at LVMH Watch Week, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is a limited edition that’s a nod to Zenith’s long history of aviation watches – with a twist. While the style is the 1920s-inspired look typical of Zenith’s Pilot range, the new chronograph is dressed entirely in sterling silver, giving it a bright finish. Inspired by the aluminium bodies of vintage aircraft, the silver case will darken with time as the alloy oxidises, but the dial will remain pristine, protected by the case. Initial thoughts Zenith has been on a tear in recent years, introducing a diversity of watches, ranging from the Chronomaster Revival A385 to the mind-boggling Defy Inventor. Few of the new launches were Pilot models, resulting in a quiet spell for the line, a shame considering Zenith’s storied heritage in aviation watches. The new chronograph will no doubt do its part to revive the line. Pilot’s watches are often aesthetically conservative – not so here. The Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is meant to stand out on the wrist, and I’m all for it. I had the opportunity to interact with a prototype, and the riveted, silver dial looks even better in the metal. The brushed surface has a shimmering quality that changes under different light, allowing it to catch the eye from every angle. Clad in silver The Chronograph Silver is cased in sterling silver, or 925, indicating it is 92.5% silver by weight. While not the first Pilot ...
Revolution
While the oscillating pinion has somewhat of a bad rap for being an economical, if not crude coupling system in chronograph mechanisms, it was the chosen method of engagement in two of the most interesting (high-end) chronograph watches in recent times. We take a look at the history of its use, the pros and cons of its construction and its application in modern watchmaking.
Quill & Pad
The RM 65-01 is the latest in a proud line of rugged, structurally advanced chronographs from Richard Mille. In basic terms, it is an automatic, split-seconds chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers that displays the date and includes a function selector, rapid winding mechanism, and variable geometry winding rotor. But as Joshua Munchow reveals, there's much more to it than that.
Deployant
We go hands-on with the new Sinn R500 bullhead rally chronograph, a watch recreated from a historical model from the 1970s.
Revolution
The Lemania 2310, aka Calibre 321 in the original Omega Moonwatch, belongs to the pantheon of the world’s greatest chronograph movements. Beautifully made, it is also incredibly durable and adaptable.
SJX Watches
Hot on the heels of the RM 72-01 powered by the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, Richard Mille has just introduced the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, continuing its historical focus on ultra high-end chronographs, which began with RM 004 of 2003. Not only is the RM 65-01 the first self-winding split-seconds chronograph from Richard Mille, it’ll also be the brand’s first serially produced watch with the complication, joining watches like the RM 11 as a mainstay of the line up. Initial thoughts Highly-complex chronographs are embedded in Richard Mille’s DNA – the company’s first chronograph was RM 004, which was a hand-wind, split-seconds powered by a Renaud & Papi movement. And in the space of a year, Richard Mille has unveiled two all-new chronographs, starting with the RM 72-01, and now the RM 65-01. RM 65-01 in Carbon NTPT The RM 65-01 is typically Richard Mille in style and materials, exuding sportiness with its techno-industrial movement finish, skeletonised dial, and multicoloured indicators. On any other watch, the colours would look like the designers are trying too hard, but in the RM 65-01, they just work. The movement, however, is notable for being a technically accomplished calibre produced by Vaucher, the respect movement specialist that’s a sister company of Parmigiani. Historically Vaucher has only supplied movements for the brand’s entry-level timepieces, while the more complicated calibres were made by Renaud ...
Deployant
Richard Mille introduces its first split seconds chronograph with an automatic movement. The new RM 65-01 Automatic Split Seconds Chronograph.
Quill & Pad
The hashtag #fliegerfriday is dedicated to the genre of flieger, or pilot’s, watches posted on social media on Fridays. Tutima, which has a long history in pilot's watches, asked Bhanu Chopra for some advice on developing a special-edition #fliegerfriday chronograph and together they came up with the Tutima Flieger Friday Chronograph Limited Edition. Here is its compelling story.
SJX Watches
Just last year Montblanc introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph powered by a gorgeous, mono-pusher Minerva movement. Debuted in a bronze case, the watch was a hit, and for good reason, it combined attractive, well-chosen vintage details and an well-finished movement, all for a very fair price. Having unveiled several other limited-edition versions of the watch since, Montblanc is continuing with the theme with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 8, an exclusive for Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches that has a smoked, dark red dial and a titanium case. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph for Sincere Initial thoughts After the launch edition, Montblanc debuted an eight-piece limited edition in November 2019 made for Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) that had a striking jade dial, which was followed by a hundred-piece limited edition with a stunning gradient-blue grand feu enamel dial in April of this year. And in between, it managed to put together a one-off example with an agate dial for charity auction Only Watch 2019. That makes the new Sincere edition the fifth iteration of the 1858 split seconds in less than 24 months. But fortunately it does not feel overdone – yet – given the small production runs for each version, as well as the interesting variety of dial materials. The first version of the 1858 split seconds in bronze The most obvious point of appeal of the watch is movement, which is derived from...
Deployant
For most Omega fans, the Speedmaster will always be the go to collectible. While far superior in technology and performance, the co-axial equipped automatic chronographs tend to be lesser in demand as compared to its cam and lever 1861 counterpart. The Speedmaster rides on its widely published Moonwatch story line, but what the Seamaster chronograph lacks in storyline, it makes up for in functions. In particular, this model is delightful to look at because of its unique metal contrasts has a 300m water resistance and an accurate and antimagnetic movement.
Quill & Pad
Derived from the historic Reference 798, Tutima's M2 Coastline chronograph is a heavy-hitter in terms of practicability and wearability. But Bhanu Chopra thinks the blue-dial version is also a perfect casual watch for beach days. And we know it can withstand anything the beach can serve up!
SJX Watches
Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, some of which are supplied to the German military and law enforcement, Sinn’s latest debut is slightly different. Inspired by auto racing, the R500 chronograph is a watch that shows the brand can have some fun, while being properly functional. Modelled on a funky chronograph Sinn produced in the 1970s, the R500 is a “bullhead” chronograph, with the twin pushers positioned like horns at one and 11 o’clock. While the style very much evokes the 1970s, the R500 is built like a robust modern wristwatch, with titanium case rated to 200 m that’s resistant to extreme low and high pressures. Initial thoughts Radically different from Sinn’s usual fare of pilot’s or military-style watches, the R500 is arguably the most interesting watch amongst the brand’s recent releases. It’s recognisably 1970s in style, but with a clean dial design that avoids the “exotic” dial found on the vintage original, which was a typically 1970s feature that can look dated today. A notable element of the dial design is the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, which seems unnecessary for an automatic watch. But German rally champion Peter Göbel, speaking during a video interview for the launch of the R500, noted that a fully-wound mainspring is crucial before starting a race – since the chronograph can be used to time laps – so it is useful in that context. And it’s also unusual against the broader landscape because “bullhea...
Quill & Pad
At only 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in height, the Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda is almost as svelte as its time-only sibling Felix, and the absence of a customary second pusher for the chronograph’s reset function makes it look much lighter than a two-pusher chronograph. Elizabeth Doerr fell in love with this test watch and was sad to send it back after the review; find out why here.
Time+Tide
Brellum has just released a resolutely modern, yet classic take on a pilot’s chronograph, with the sharpest of details – and shows how much colour and texture transforms the aviator personality of the Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer. This is another strong reference from Brellum that will follow your lead, be it battle-ready flight instrument … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer – a COSC-certified classic pilot’s chronograph with a modern edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Based on the most popular releases of 2017, it is possible that the almighty tourbillon may about to be usurped by something new and rather old at the same time: the chronograph. In this installment of Joshua Munchow's “Here’s Why” series, he explores why the chronograph could be the new tourbillon.
Quill & Pad
Is the universal attraction of a chronograph found in the ability to control part of the timekeeping yourself using the often-dynamic-looking extra dials and hands? For the GPHG, at any rate, this is an important category with, as usual, a very strong lineup. So how is our panel leaning when it comes to picking a winner? Find out here.
Deployant
Luxury sports watches have seemed to undergo a revival in recent years, with the introduction of numerous interpretations from multiple watch manufacturers. More recently, manufacturers have went beyond just making luxury sports watches. In this month alone, we have seen two manufacturers launching luxury sports watches with the chronograph function. Perhaps this is the organicRead More
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