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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Automatic SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Jan 24, 2025

Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Automatic

Bulgari upgrades its signature snake-inspired watch with an all-new, in-house movement. Retaining the familiar oval case, the Serpenti Automatic debuts in two variants, the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic and Serpenti Tubogas Automatic, both equipped with the BVS100 calibre. A hint of where the LVMH watch brands are going, the BVS100 is a compact, workhorse automatic movement developed by Bulgari and slated to be produced by sister brand Zenith for other brands in the LVMH stable. Initial thoughts The historical Serpenti in enamel is arguably an iconic women’s watch, and the modern-day take on the design is bigger, bolder, and sports cleaner lines. While the Serpenti Seduttori is more subtle, the Tubogas version is especially compelling with its double-twirl bracelet that is classic Bulgari. The in-house movement is a worthy upgrade for this iconic design, although the movement is an industrial calibre rather than a high-end creation. That, however, is reflected in the relatively affordable price of the entry-level models, which start at about US$10,000. While the price is on the high side for a time-only watch with a straightforward automatic movement, it can be rationalised by the iconic design and excellent bracelet work, even on the base models. All-new movement The Serpenti Seduttori is offered in seven distinct variations - stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, rose gold two-tone, and white gold - with the option of diamond settings for the yellow gold and whit...

Ming Introduces the 37.09 Uni SJX Watches
Ming Jan 24, 2025

Ming Introduces the 37.09 Uni

Ming has unveiled the 37.09 Uni, the latest addition to its line of dive watches. Sharing the same architecture as its predecessor-the 37.09 Bluefin, the “Uni” has a black-and-orange aesthetic along with 600 m of water resistance. According to Ming, the livery of the 37.09 Uni takes inspiration from the sea urchin, uni in Japanese. The watch features a DLC-coated stainless steel case and an orange scaled on the inner sapphire dial that measures elapsed time. Initial thoughts I appreciate the distinctive Ming aesthetic with its signature flared lugs and minimalist here. Here it’s combined with a sapphire dial and subtle orange accents, and the result is appealing. The 37.09 Uni, however, costs CHF5,250, which is steep price tag for what it is. Although the overall execution is elaborate, it’s still a micro-brand dive watch equipped with an inexpensive (albeit customised) Sellita movement. While there was a moment during the pandemic where micro-brand offerings somehow made sense at various points of the price spectrum, due in part to the unavailability of everything else, but that time has passed. For Ming fans, the new diver is an appealing watch, but for everyone else there are alternatives. Uni Designed in the familiar Ming style, the DLC-coated stainless steel case is compact at 38 mm in diameter, though it has the height of a dive watch at 12.8 mm in thickness. Entirely matte brushed, the case sports a stepped bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Two oversized c...

Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jan 22, 2025

Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time

Perhaps Louis Vuitton’s most famous complication, the Spin Time is a three-dimensional jump hour that was historically synonymous with the original, chunky Tambour case. Now Louis Vuitton has revamped both the complication and case to create the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. More compact and elegant than its predecessor, the Tambour Taiko is an expertly detailed case matched with restrained “dolphin grey” livery. Also employed in the new Convergence, the new case is home to an equally new family of in-house movements that will be the foundation of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking. All of the Tambour Taiko Spin Time models – there are four in all, plus two gem-set variants – are equipped with movements from this family. The line-up starts with the 39.5 mm base model, while the rest are all 42.5 mm. They include the Spin Time Antipode with a novel world time function, and the top-of-the-line Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon combining the jumping hours complication with a central tourbillon. All feature the signature Spin Time display of jumping cubes that indicate the current hour with a contrast-colour face. From left: Spin Time, Spin Time Air, Spin Time Antipode, and Spin Time Flying Tourbillon (not to scale) Initial thoughts Though I like very much the original, chunky Tambour, the redesigned case has a more subtle, refined appeal. The Tambour Taiko is far more wearable and boasts a noticeably higher level of finishing and detail, though it does lose some of th...

REVIEW: What We Think Of The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple Jan 22, 2025

REVIEW: What We Think Of The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in stunning purple is the perfect blend of performance and precision! What We Love Sunburst purple dial steals the show Tourbillon cage stands out more on this model compared to other versions. Polished finishing on the case and dial makes this watch look stunning on the wrist What We Don’t Sub-dials could potentially have looked better by matching dial colour and finish. For the price point, the movement could have more finishing A tachymeter scale instead of a minute track would’ve looked fantastic too! Overall Score: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera is one of the most iconic collections in the world of luxury watchmaking. As we know, the Carrera was first introduced in 1963 by Jack Heuer and was named after the infamous Carrera Panamericana, a high-octane race that stood for innovation and daring. Over the decades, the TAG Heuer Carrera has evolved; however, it still remains true to its original concept of precision, elegance and a design that brings together a perfect balance of form and function. The TAG Heuer Carrera is undoubtedly one of the most iconic watches in the world, known for its design language of clean lines and chronograph functionality. The watch is a timeless symbol of TAG Heuer’s ability to push the boundaries whilst still keeping the core identity of the watch intact. Presenting the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillo...

First Look – The New Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Jan 22, 2025

First Look – The New Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM

While bright colours have become noticeably prevalent in watchmaking for quite a few years, until recently, the exciting hues have been reserved for the dials and the straps. On the other hand, Hublot tries hard to make its entire watches, case included, literally eye-popping. Moreover, the brand strives to showcase its movements and does it […]

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton (incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton (incl. Video)

The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s answer to the trend of elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets. Introduced in 2022, it has become one of the pillars of the brand’s collections. With its octagonal case and dodecagonal bezel, its design is a modern nod to the 1969 Defy. The Defy Skyline chronograph joined the lineup in […]

TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 39mm Purple Dial Review Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 39mm Purple Dial Review

When TAG Heuer released the Carrera “Glassbox” in 2023 it was immediately received as one of the better vintage reinterpretations of the post-pandemic era. Why exactly is it so beloved? Well, first off, it was the first non-limited production or limited edition ‘Glassbox’ Carrera since the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Then came notable limited editions like the Skipper reissue and 160th anniversary edition. Secondly, the 39mm-wide case with that personality-packed, domed sapphire crystal (aka "Glassbox") struck a good balance between modern manufacturing/finishing and vintage-inspired design. Now as LVMH Watch Week 2025 kicks off, TAG Heuer has released a new Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" in a striking purple dial that is borrowed from a limited-edition Monaco from 2022. We haven’t seen too many purple-dial watches so far, so it’s savvy for TAG to get in on the ground floor of what could (or just as easily could not) be the next big color at the top of 2025. Personally, I think it looks great and could very well be the most attractive iteration of the Glassbox so far. While I love and admire TAG’s consistent dedication to its vintage-racing-inspired history, it’s so nice to see something that isn’t really steeped in any legacy story but rather just looks cool and stands on its own in the moment. The 39mm wide and 13.86mm-thick case of the Carrera Glassbox (with 100 meters of water resistance) has a 46mm lug-...

Hublot Scales Down the Meca-10 to 42 mm SJX Watches
Hublot Scales Down Jan 21, 2025

Hublot Scales Down the Meca-10 to 42 mm

Hublot’s latest release, the Big Bang Meca-10 10-Day Power Reserve, may at first glance resemble the chunky original, but reveals a host of significant enhancements - most notably, a more wearable 42 mm case. The new Meca-10 retains the Meccano-inspired skeletonised movement finished to colour-match the case. The calibre boasts a 10-day power reserve indicated by an uncommon crémaillère system visible at 12 o’clock made up of a linear gear engaging a circular gear. Initial thoughts Long one of the more interesting but accessible watches in Hublot’s lineup, the Meca-10 was previously available only in a 45 mm case that rendered it less-than-wearable. Hublot has refined the Meca-10 by reducing the case diameter by substantial 3 mm, making it positively compact relative to its predecessor. Not only is the case smaller, it is also thinner at just 13.9 mm high, which is slim for a watch of this type. But the signature movement architecture has been retained, resulting in a watch that has the technical appeal of the original, but one more versatile and comfortable. While it may initially appear to be yet another skeletonised Hublot, of which there are many, the Meca-10 boasts an interesting manual-winding movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve and a distinctive movement architecture. Amongst Hublot’s more exotic watches, the Meca-10 stands out as being relatively affordable, with the key word being relatively. It starts at US$23,000 in titanium (and rises ...

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal SJX Watches
Gerald Genta Jan 21, 2025

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Gérald Genta distinctive, punkish “urchin” wristwatch gains a striking new look with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal. Each of the 137 studs on the case carries a fire opal, while the dial is in orange carnelian that echoes the gemstones’ hue. Mined from Mexico’s volcanic regions, fire opals stones derive their characteristic yellow, orange, or red pigmentation from water trapped in cooling lava. Initial thoughts Although the Gérald Genta brand was revived in 2023, well after the iconic designer’s passing in 2011, the brand has stuck closely to his original vision and style. The modern-day Oursin is a faithful remake of the 1994 original, a little larger in size but retaining all of the original’s quirky details, including the facetted crystal. Unlike the fairly muted models unveiled last year, the new Oursin is bright and bold. While it incorporates gemstones and colours that found on the original (which was also fairly muted), the orange hue feels perfectly appropriate for the design. It is an apt evolution of the original, and the late Genta would have approved. Fire opals While the new Oursin differs from Genta’s original with its fire opals and carnelian, the core design elements remain faithful to his blueprint. Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the case measures 36.5 mm in diameter and 9.64 mm in thickness, making it slightly larger than the original. The case is studded with 137 fire opals, each individually secured with 18k yellow gold pins. An orange...

Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Surprises Jan 21, 2025

Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence

Louis Vuitton starts 2025 with a surprise, the Tambour Convergence. Modelled on traditional “digital” pocket watches, the Convergence indicates the time with discs visible in a pair of small windows at the top of the face. The unusual design, coupled with the compact, 37 mm case gives the Convergence an elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic atypical of Louis Vuitton. Equally notable is the newly-developed in-house calibre inside, the LFT MA01.01. The movement is of a family of movements that will underpin Louis Vuitton’s timepieces going forward; variants of the movement are also found in the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Initial thoughts The Convergence is unexpected because it isn’t typical of Louis Vuitton. The vintage-inspired styling and proportions are almost antithesis of the brand’s conventional look, which was historically colourful and modern. Even though such territory is relatively new to Louis Vuitton, the Convergence is executed well. The design has intrinsic appeal, and shows off good proportions and details. The Convergence demonstrates the refined style of the redesigned Tambour case, which barely resembles the chunky original that was often thick and paired with narrow lugs. While I myself liked the quirk look of the original Tambour, the revamped model is undoubtedly more elegant and consequently will have a wider appeal. The Convergence debuts in pink gold The Convergence does well in almost all respects – fit, finish, design, and dimensions ...

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 Jan 21, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2

In a fortuitous turn of events, Mark Zuckerberg was spotted with the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 just a week ago – just in time for the debut of the Hand Made 2. Unlike its predecessor that was equipped with a tourbillon, the Hand Made 2 is “merely” a three-hander with a power reserve indicator, presented in a more compact case that’s just under 41 mm. But like the first model, the Hand Made 2 is mostly made with traditional, hand-operated tools – specifically, 96% of the watch is made this way, an endeavour that requires 5,000 hours of work according to Greubel Forsey. (NB: The watch pictured is a prototype and is not perfectly clean.) Initial thoughts The Hand Made 2 is essentially the Hand Made 1 scaled down in every respect – dimensions, complexity, and price – except for the manual production methods and fine finishing, which remain impressive and outstanding. Even at arm’s length the quality of the Hand Made 2 is obvious. Up close, it is evident all of the details have been properly taken care of. As it was with the Hand Made 1, the second edition is also impressive for what cannot be seen – tolerances and precision that are equivalent to Greubel Forsey’s serial-production watches made with automated equipment. Achieving that with manual equipment is impressive and no doubt explains a good deal of the price. Surprisingly, the Hand Made 2 looks more complicated than its predecessor, despite doing away with the tourbillon. That’s because the archit...

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton Monochrome
Rado True Square Skeleton Rado Jan 21, 2025

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton

Rado began experimenting with innovative materials in the early 1960s, resulting in the Diastar and its futuristic helmet-like case made from scratch-resistant carbide tungsten. Since 1986, Rado has employed high-tech ceramic in its creations, obtaining a broader palette of colours and finishes over the years. The True Square, a collection launched in 2020, perpetuates Rado’s […]

First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Jan 20, 2025

First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One

The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]

Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial Fratello
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Jan 20, 2025

Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial

Thirteen years after the introduction of the 43mm L.U.C Lunar One, a smaller, more refined update debuts this year in two variations. The rose or white gold case now measures 40.5mm across, and the redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One comes with a blue or salmon dial. The name of the watch doesn’t quite cover the […] Visit Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial to read the full article.

Sartory-Billard Introduces a Pair of New References on the SB04 Platform Worn & Wound
Jan 17, 2025

Sartory-Billard Introduces a Pair of New References on the SB04 Platform

Micro-indie brand Sartory-Billard, founded by Armand Billard and his friend Ludovic Sartory in 2015, is well-known for its custom bespoke timepieces. In a shift from its usual practices, the brand is set to release two new fully fleshed-out models featuring its standard SB04-E case: the Ruby Platinum, which will be a limited series, and the Tantalum Hand-Engraved, which will enter regular production. Both models aim to showcase the brand’s craftsmanship and expertise, a goal they seem to have achieved based on these brand supplied images. The Ruby Platinum watch features a dial centerpiece made from genuine ruby sourced from a responsibly harvested boulder in Tanzania, Africa. The ruby is crafted into dial inserts in Germany, just an hour away from the Sartory-Billard workshop. Because of the unique nature of the material, no two dials are identical; each displays distinct textures. Completing the dial is a fumé sunray-textured platinum-plated outer ring. Tantalum is one of the most challenging metals to work with due to its remarkable density and hardness. Engraving a delicate design on its surface requires great skill, which is exemplified in the intricate feather-like engraving found in the center of the Tantalum Hand-Engraved dial. Like the previous model, this one also features a surrounding ring; however, this one is made of solid tantalum and finished with a fumé sunray effect. Both watches have a 39.5mm diameter case, measuring 46mm from lug to lug and only 10....

Green Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Livery for the IWC Mark XX SJX Watches
IWC Mark XX IWC’s latest Jan 16, 2025

Green Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Livery for the IWC Mark XX

IWC’s latest timepiece for its Formula 1 partner is the Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team. A no-frills, entry-level aviator’s watch with a lightweight titanium case, the new Mark XX is dressed in the same “Petronas green” livery as the F1 team’s chronograph introduced two years ago. As the official team watch for the 2025 F1 season, the Mark XX will be worn by every member of the Mercedes-AMG team, from mechanics to strategists, while also being to the public. Initial thoughts With its Petronas green dial and strap, the new Mark XX is well-suited as a team watch for the F1 team. It’s an appealing twist on the traditional pilot’s watch in black and white, which can be a little bit too formulaic. The matte, blasted titanium case further adds to the appeal as it is both lightweight and utilitarian in appearance. The bold colourway may be too bright for some, especially as an everyday watch, but for those wanted a more restrained look, IWC still has the base model Mark XX in low-key colours. Surprisingly, the Mark XX Mercedes-AMG isn’t that much more expensive than the base model. It’s approximately US$850 more expensive than the standard stainless steel version, making the new Mark XX a fairly good buy in comparison. Petronas green The new Mark XX adopts the same colourway and case material found on the Mercedes-AMG chronograph of 2022. It features a 40 mm case entirely in sandblasted titanium, giving it a matte finish with a sub...

Peter Speake is Back with PS Horology and the New Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son Worn & Wound
Jan 15, 2025

Peter Speake is Back with PS Horology and the New Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son

Last week, Peter Speake returned to the independent watchmaking scene when he unveiled the first pieces from his new brand, PS Horology. Peter is something of a legendary figure in the indie watchmaking world. He is the co-founder of Speake-Marin, which launched in 2002 after Peter spent a period of time working as a watchmaker for Renaud & Papi in Le Locle, Switzerland. Speake-Marin is perhaps best known for the Piccadilly case design, named for the London district where Peter spent the early part of his career restoring vintage watches. The Piccadilly case, I’ve always felt, is something of an acquired taste. I’ve come to really love it, and see it as a symbol of an earlier era of independent watchmaking when these artisanal, handcrafted watches made in very small batches were not at the front of anyone’s mind. Times, of course, have changed for the better, and indies are currently having the quite the moment, but it’s worth remembering that a line can be drawn from any of the buzzy new indie watchmakers to surface in the last few years all the way back to Peter and his early 2000s contemporaries. To put it plainly, it’s great that he’s back.  Peter founded PS Horology back in 2022 and has been working on the first collection ever since. The Tsuba watches seen here are expected to be the first of several projects for PS Horology in 2025. While it might not look like it on an initial glance, there’s actually connective tissue between the Piccadilly cases of...

Toledano & Chan Introduces the B/1.2, a Follow-Up to One of Last Year’s Breakout Independent Hits Worn & Wound
Rolex King Midas Jan 6, 2025

Toledano & Chan Introduces the B/1.2, a Follow-Up to One of Last Year’s Breakout Independent Hits

If 2024 was defined by the rise of shaped cases and stone dials, it appears that 2025 is starting off with more of the same. Last year, Toledano & Chan had an unexpected hit with their debut watch, the B/1, which was a contemporary riff on the classic Rolex King Midas and similar avant garde designs, with a Brutalist inspired case shape and on-trend lapis lazuil dial. Now, for the brand’s second serialized release (they produced a pair of one-offs for auction last year  with cases crafted from carbon and meteorite) they’ve made a handful of subtle refinements to the original idea, added a mother-of-pearl dial, and introduced a dramatic, faceted crystal. It’s a more complex idea but shows in clear terms how the brand might grow with future releases, showing that they have plenty of tricks left up their sleeve and intend to keep their momentum going.  The new watch, dubbed the B/1.2, prominently features an asymmetrical sapphire crystal that echoes the lines of the angular case. Faceted and asymmetrical crystals are rare in watchmaking. Production of crystals in unusual shapes, particularly when made from sapphire, is challenging and expensive. Perhaps even more importantly, a crystal with facets will distort, to some degree, whatever is viewed through it, which is not ideal for time telling. It’s perhaps especially not ideal for time telling on a watch with a dial that does not include markers or numerals of any kind, like the B/1.2. But that underscores the whole...

Peter Speake Returns with PS Horology and the Tsuba SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus But Jan 5, 2025

Peter Speake Returns with PS Horology and the Tsuba

Peter Speake has introduced the first watches under his new brand, PS Horology. Long separated from the eponymous brand Speake-Marin, Mr Speake has launched the Tsuba. A significant departure from his earlier designs, the Tsuba’s case and bracelet features flowing, organic lines inspired by tsuba, guards found on traditional Japanese swords that were functional but often exquisitely decorated. The debut of PS Horology, just six days into the new year, is the first significant relaunch of 2025 but probably not the last. Initial thoughts Mr Speake is a significant figure in the early history of independent watchmaking, so the launch of his new brand attracted my attention. While the designs are a departure from what I’m used to seeing from the projects he’s been involved with in the past, they are nonetheless executed with an eye for the details. The Tsuba is all about its case and bracelet design, which is almost organic in feel, calling to mind watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. But the Tsuba’s design has an altogether different influence, and the similarity is incidental. The unusual shape of the case means it’s difficult to manufacture and finish, with dramatic transitions between brushed convex surfaces and polished concave surfaces. The watch is powered by the well-known Vaucher cal. 5401, a thin, sophisticated calibre that helps the Tsuba achieve its appealing slimness of just under 9 mm. The multi-part dials are also worth close examination. The stan...

Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds? Fratello
Jan 4, 2025

Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds?

Analog-digital watches are making a comeback. Here are a few fantastic examples of compelling designs from popular brands to consider. The aesthetically pleasing design of an analog watch and the added functionality of a digital complication make a strong case for including analog-digital watches in any enthusiast’s collection. Let’s take a look. When I say […] Visit Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds? to read the full article.

Introducing: The Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Fratello
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Jan 1, 2025

Introducing: The Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon

With the new Ultra-Chron Carbon, Longines continues bolstering its already impressive lineup. Plus, the watch features the brand’s first-ever carbon fiber case. This is a beautiful dive watch with an outstanding movement. Longines reintroduced the stainless steel Ultra-Chron in 2022, and it was praised for its 36,000vph movement and design, which evokes the 1968 original. […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon to read the full article.

Introducing – Longines’ First Carbon Watch, The Ultra-Chron Carbon Monochrome
Longines First Carbon Watch Jan 1, 2025

Introducing – Longines’ First Carbon Watch, The Ultra-Chron Carbon

Everyone is familiar with Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero automatic chronograph movement, released in 1969. However, not everybody is familiar with the world’s first high-frequency diver. The laurels, in this case, go to Longines with its 1968 Ultra-Chron ref. 7970 with a 5Hz frequency and a depth rating of 200m. Reintroduced in 2022, the Ultra-Chron returns […]