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Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 or Sep 14, 2019

Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention

For many of us out there, the dream of one day owning a grail watch, like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 or Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A, is going to remain just that … a dream. And the funny part is, it’s got nothing to do with the amount of spondulicks in your bank account! No, … ContinuedThe post Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold Sep 13, 2019

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists

The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is at its starting block: 84 watches have been shortlisted across 14 categories, all vying for one of the year’s awards. This year’s categories include the usual like Men’s Complication, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, and Challenge (for adorable watches under 4,000 Swiss francs), but also grows to encompass two new categories, Divers and Iconic. But the top prize of the evening remains the Aiguille d’Or, or “golden hand”, which is the best of show. Given the number of independent brands that found success at the 2018 contest – of the 16 prizes, nine were awarded to independents, with Bovet scooping the Aiguille d’Or – the watches in contention this year include a broad spectrum of independent watchmaking, from establishment names like MB&F; to newcomers like Alchemists. The 30-member jury, composed of the industry notables like auctioneer Aurel Bacs, watchmaker Philippe Dufour, Jack Forster of Hodinkee, and also our founder Jiaxian Su, will meet to evaluate the watches and cast their vote by secret ballot in the week before the prize ceremony in November. At end September, the watches will soon go on a world tour, prior to the awards ceremony on November 7 at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva. (The tour calendar is at the end of the article.) Here’s the finalists, by category: Ladies (From left to right, top to bottom) 1. Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold and Diamonds 2. Chanel J12 Calibre 12....

Raketa Introduces the Copernicus, the Soviet Space Watch Remake SJX Watches
Raketa Sep 9, 2019

Raketa Introduces the Copernicus, the Soviet Space Watch Remake

Produced in the 1980s, the Raketa Kopernik was a nod to the Soviet Union’s space exploration, a Soviet Moon watch of sorts. The hour hand took the form of a golden disc, representing the Sun, while the minute hand was the Moon, taking the form of a large ring. Once an hour the Sun and Moon hands would overlap for an eclipse on the wrist. Named after Nicolaus Copernicus, the Kopernik was imaginatively designed but a typical Soviet-era timepiece in terms of quality. Now Raketa has recreated the original design as the Copernicus wristwatch, which is still made in Russia but boasting upgraded fit and finish. The rocket factory Raketa is Russian for “rocket”, and it is a brand of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in St Petersburg. Founded in 1721 as a stoneware manufacturer, the factory has produced watches since the second world war. Now run by its owners – an Englishman and a Frenchman – Raketa produces has a vertically integrated factory as well as an online store. The Raketa Copernicus has an abstract dial with the Sun and Moon hands against an off-centred sphere that represents the Earth. And it has a graduated colour that goes from dark blue to black, evoking the darkness of outer space. The Copernicus has a steel case – either black-coated or polished – that’s 40.5mm in diameter and a thick 12mm high. It’s fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and mineral glass on the back. Inside is the cal. 2615 automatic movement that is derived from a Sovie...

RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches Time+Tide
Sep 7, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches

These days we’re pretty down with the tie-in between the watch industry and motorsports. Because while the association, which had its golden days in the age of Heuer et al, was originally born from necessity, nowadays its main function has to do with the marketing department.  And while many brands have history in the area, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 05 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Piaget Polo S Sep 4, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 05

Luxury sports watches in steel with distinctive case shapes and integrated bracelets have been an unstoppable trend of late. Though the segment was born in the 1970s with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and then Patek Philippe Nautilus, it’s arguably at the high-water mark now. Several brands have joined the party with their own luxury sport watches, each designed with a different impetus, but often met with a certain degree of controversy. Recent examples include the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Piaget Polo S, and Girard-Perregaux Laureato. And now, it’s the turn of Bell & Ross (B&R;) with the BR 05. Unsurprisingly, the BR 05 is a riff on the most iconic Bell & Ross design – the circle-within-a-square case. The BR 05 enters a crowded segment in both an affordable manner; it’s kitted out with a well-constructed case and customised movement for under US$5000. An unmistakable form At first glance, the rounded-square case and bezel with visible screws inevitably brings to mind Gerald Genta’s classics. But on its own, the BR 05 is a logical derivative of the signature B&R; case. The BR 05 is a compact watch, with a wide bezel making it look slightly smaller than it actually is. The case measures 40mm across and 10.4mm in height, which is relatively slim and within the general ballpark of such watches. That being said, a case below 10mm would have given it more elegant and classical proportions. And in contrast to the merely adequate depth rating of the ...

RECOMMENDED READING: The Gérald Genta archives Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Aug 1, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Gérald Genta archives

If you’re reading this, you probably know who Gérald Genta is, and if you don’t, you probably recognise the name. He was the most prolific watch designer of the 20th century, having been the source of inspiration for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Omega Constellation. He designed for everyone, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The Gérald Genta archives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

9 of the most underrated chronographs of 2019 Time+Tide
Tudor S&G; Jul 18, 2019

9 of the most underrated chronographs of 2019

Tudor S&G; this, Patek 5172G that, but wouldn’t you rather have something … different? Year after year it’s the same story. News breaks in January and March, and all you hear about are these “hero watches” from brands X, Y, and Z time and time again. Sure, that’s cool, and there’s a reason there is … ContinuedThe post 9 of the most underrated chronographs of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 5, 2019

Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead

These are the conversations we all keep having lately. Much like our beloved Sandra Lane, I’m equally sick of the steel Rolex and Patek hype that refuses to die off (at least for now), and every time I hear of the obscene premium that people are still willing to pay for either the Nautilus 5711 … ContinuedThe post Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date Jul 3, 2019

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer

Editor’s note: The longer I spend around watches, the less I find myself in bells and whistles (Patek alarms and Jaquet Droz excepted). In fact, I find myself more and more drawn to simple, pure designs that just work. The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a perfect example of this. On the surface … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Haven Watch Co. Introduces the Chilton Chronograph SJX Watches
Jun 28, 2019

Haven Watch Co. Introduces the Chilton Chronograph

Based in the American Midwest, Haven Watch Co. makes its debut with the Chilton, an eye-catching, hand-wound chronograph that’s a blend of retro design elements and affordably priced. The watches takes inspiration from the 1970s, perhaps the golden age of sports watches, and specifically, the funky designs and bold colours of the era’s regatta timers. Despite the incongruent combination of design features, the watch is refreshing and captures the bold, experimental spirit of the 1970s. Beyond the design, the Chilton is notable for being the first watch on the market powered by the new, hand-wound, “compax” chronograph movement from Sellita. While the movement is Swiss made, the external components like the case and dial are made in Asia, and the watches are put together in the United States. The Chilton is available on either a blue or white dial with a “compax” layout, both of which feature the same regatta-style 30-minute register that is divided into 10-minute segments. It doesn’t have an actual countdown function, of course, but vintage aesthetics, and not utility, motivate the design. The chronograph counters are small and far apart, just as it was on vintage chronographs, albeit ones that came long before the 1970s.  And if the chunky hands look familiar, they are similar to those found on the Universal Geneva Compax “Nina Rindt”. The vintage styling also explains the decimal scale on the blue dial and pulsometer scale on the white. T...

Heavy metal heaven – the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1 Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1 May 28, 2019

Heavy metal heaven – the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1

Editor’s note: Cameron is a big fan of Casio, and is the proud owner of a beautiful golden boy. So it was no surprise that he raised his hand to review the quite heavy and very cool Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1. Read on …  Anyone else ever play this game? Sitting at my desk … ContinuedThe post Heavy metal heaven – the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 5, 2019

“Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas

When it comes to watchmaking, it’s no stretch of a hairspring to say that Michel Navas has done it all. He was a key figure at Gérald Genta in the high complications team in the boom times of the ’90s. He also worked at Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. At Franck Muller, he masterminded the … ContinuedThe post “Instead of watching TV when I was 10 years old, I took watches apart.” Celebrating 10 years of Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time with its creator, Michel Navas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This is what a dress watch should look like – the Breguet Classique 7147 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 7147 Editor’s note Apr 21, 2019

This is what a dress watch should look like – the Breguet Classique 7147

Editor’s note: There’s a risk with dress watches that they become overly simple. Boring even. That’s not what’s going on with the Breguet Classique 7147, which manages to balance clean design, fine detail and Breguet’s storied design codes in one neat golden package … The story in a second: Breguet’s updated Classique 7147 offers traditional style, … ContinuedThe post This is what a dress watch should look like – the Breguet Classique 7147 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter? Time+Tide
Omega has been steadily touting Apr 21, 2019

What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter?

Editor’s note: Timekeeping standards are suddenly cool again. Omega has been steadily touting the benefits of their Master Chronometer certification, Patek has their own standards, and Rolex recently upped their game with the Superlative Chronometer Standard. But what is it? This article from a while back explains everything you need to know. Since 1951, nearly … ContinuedThe post What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 3 of the best Bulgari watches from Basel 2019  Time+Tide
Bulgari watches from Basel 2019  Mar 25, 2019

LIST: 3 of the best Bulgari watches from Basel 2019 

Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women’s side, there’s a new golden serpent to adore.  The hero of Bulgari’s set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both … ContinuedThe post LIST: 3 of the best Bulgari watches from Basel 2019  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions Time+Tide
Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions Jan 16, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions

Breitling has just announced three retro takes on their iconic pilot’s watch - the mighty Navitimer - that evoke the golden age of jet travel. The Airline Editions capsule collection consists of tributes to three of the great airlines, Pan Am, Swissair and TWA. Each airline is the subject of nostalgic homage, in the form … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Breitling Navitimer 1 Airline Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: How to perfect product placement on the red carpet Time+Tide
Jan 7, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How to perfect product placement on the red carpet

The dust (and hangovers) have settled on the 76th Golden Globes, and on some corners of the internet it seems that the pre-show press pack hustle is a bigger event than the awards themselves. And, given the intense competition from brands in this Instagram age to have that red carpet moment, it’s easy to see … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How to perfect product placement on the red carpet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Tudor’s 1926 is a classic charmer Time+Tide
Tudor s 1926 Dec 23, 2018

VIDEO: Tudor’s 1926 is a classic charmer

One of the more intriguing releases from Tudor this year - and one that didn’t get quite the attention it otherwise would have, thanks to the show-stealing GMT - was the classically styled 1926. Taking its name from the year the Tudor name was registered, it also owes some design cues to this golden era … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Tudor’s 1926 is a classic charmer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Grail material – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Nov 13, 2018

HANDS-ON: Grail material – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST

When the watchfam get together, it’s only a matter of time before the hot topic of grail watches rears its curious head. It’s no surprise, either, that for many collectors, their ultimate goal is usually found at the higher-end of the watchmaking spectrum. Perhaps a Patek Philippe or something of the Vacheron variety? Or maybe … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Grail material – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 15202ST appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.