Revolution
Introducing Vacheron Constantin’s Novelties at Watches and Wonders 2021
A roundup of the stunning watches newly released by the maison this year.
Results for The Holy Trinity (Patek, AP, Vacheron)
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Market Watch: Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique
An unusual wristwatch with twin retrograde hands in the form of a compass, the Mercator was unveiled in 1994 for the 400th anniversary of the death of Gerardus Mercator (1512-1594). A pioneering cartographer famous for inventing the map projection that evolved into the world maps of today, Mercator was born in present-day Belgium, which is where the genesis for the Mercator wristwatch was formed. The Mercator wristwatch was unusual amongst watches of the 1990s, being one of the rare handful of classically styled watches with an unconventional time display. At the same time, the fanciest versions of the Mercator watches featured hand-made fired enamel dials, which were rare at the time. The entry-level versions, in contrast, had acid-etched brass dials sporting similar motifs. A tribute to the past The Mercator watch was the brainchild of Jean Genbrugge, an artisan who, along with his wife Lucie, specialises in miniature enamel painting. Mr Genbrugge is also a watchmaker, which led him to invent the Mercator retrograde mechanism, while also devising the map-pattern dial as in a nod to his homeland’s famous son. “I am a citizen of Antwerp like Mercator, and I have a great admiration for his scientific work,” recounts Mr Genbrugge, “When the 400th anniversary of Mercator’s passing took place in 1993, I visited the exhibition in honour of his life at the Mercator Museum in Sint-Niklaas.” “Being a sailor, I am a navigator myself,” explains Mr Genbrugge, “Which...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Since its launch in 2016, the Overseas line has been steadily filled out with a variety of models, but the most compelling is probably the perpetual calendar. First unveiled with a solid dial, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar is a large but markedly thin watch that sits strikingly flat on the wrist. With elegant proportions matched by thoughtful design – witness the micro-adjustment clasp for the bracelet – the Overseas perpetual calendar also boasts a high level of finishing for both the case and movement, which happens to be the cal. 1120 descended from the venerable Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920. This year Vacheron Constantin went one better with the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, which is essentially the same thing but with a skilfully open-worked movement. Boasting a tremendous appeal – matched by a very high price – the new perpetual calendar is amongst the best in luxury-sports watches. Admitted it is more luxury than sports, but it is done extremely well. Initial thoughts In its original guise, the Overseas perpetual is already appealing in both style and substance. It sits wide and flat on the wrist, looking elegant in profile while being refined in its case details – all of the polished elements catch the light nicely. But it was costly – not more expensive than other comparable luxury-sports perpetual calendars – but a lot of money still. The skeleton version of the watch is everything the original was, but more so. Just as elegantly ...
Revolution
The Ruby Collection At Christie’s Hong Kong
Christie’s in Hong Kong is offering eight extraordinary Patek Philippe watches which all feature rubies.
Revolution
The Story Of Charles Stern’s Unique Ruby Dial
Christie’s in Hong Kong is offering an extraordinary Patek Philippe ref. 1518 with Charles Stern’s unique and historically important ruby dial.
Video
The Rolex Pepsi is Dead? Who Cares. (Geneva Predictions) 🥱
With the Geneva releases (Watches & Wonders) just weeks away, every watch channel is making the same predictable Rolex prediction videos. Today, Christian is skipping the brown-nosing and delivering a brutally honest...
SJX Watches
Fugue Introduces the Fiction One
Founded just three years ago, Fugue got its start with a watch featuring a modular case with interchangeable lugs. The brand’s second model is altogether more interesting, the Fiction One. Powered by an automatic Sellita movement, the Fiction One has an intriguing mystery dial – the hands appear to be floating over its surface with no connection to the central axis. Available for pre-order on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter until end October, the Fiction One is available in two dial variations, white and smoked grey. And it is affordable, with a price of €350, or about US$420. [Update December 10, 2020: The original Kickstarter campaign for the watch did not meet its target, but Fugue is doing it a second time, offering the watch at a slightly lower price, as well as a smaller minimum quantity. The new campaign closes January 8, 2021.] Initial thoughts “Microbrands” tend to capitalise on designs that are the flavour of the day, reusing classic sports-watch designs for affordable watches. So amidst its crowdfunded peers, the Fiction One is refreshing. That said, the mystery time display is an old invention, dating to early 19th century when it was invented by French magician Jean-Eugène Robert Houdin.And in the mid 20th century, the Galaxy watch with mystery hands was produced by several brands, most notably LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines. Fugue takes inspiration from those wristwatches, successfully reinterpreting the idea to create something mod...
SJX Watches
Habring2 and Massena Lab Introduce the Erwin LAB02
A year after the debut of the Erwin LAB01 in bronze, which sold out swiftly, Massena Lab has discreetly launched the followup. Announced only to “friends and family” via email, the Erwin LAB02 retains the familiar “sector” dial, but in a two-tone rose gold and silver finish. As with the first instalment, the LAB02 is made by Habring2 and designed by Massena Lab, a watch-creation studio founded by industry insider William Rohr. Initial thoughts Habring2 are always excellent value, and the Erwin LAB02 has the added appeal of having been designed by Mr Rohr, a veteran watch collector. Though the design is not novel – it is based on a vintage Patek Philippe – the look is extremely appealing, and it has been executed with a careful attention to detail, as evidenced by the textures of the dial for instance. While the original edition sold out in an instant, the LAB02 is a low-key launch, with the watches being delivered over a period of months, which makes it easier to land one. So it is accessible not just in price – a bit under US$6,500 – but availability, a useful thing when it comes to small-run limited editions. Vintage inspiration The new Erwin models itself on a 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 that had a similar, dual-colour dial. Illustrated Mr Rohr’s well-honed eye for detail, the dial of the Erwin is not just made up of twin colours, but also two surface finishes. The rose gold-plated chapter ring has a fine, concentric pattern, while the si...
Deployant
Exhibition invite: Vacheron Constantin Exhibition on Sports Elegance in Watchmaking
You are invited: Vacheron Constantin Exhibition on Sports Elegance in Watchmaking. July 13- Aug 24, 2020. VC Boutique, MBS, Singapore. Details within.
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection
Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Steel
A staple of Blancpain line-up since the brand was reestablished in the early 1980s, the extra-slim Villeret wristwatch is stripped to the bare essentials but classically-styled, and it’s now available in stainless steel, and also red gold. Understated and thin, the Villeret Ultraplate 6224 is an automatic three-hander with a date display, and just over 8 mm thick, hence the name – ultra plate translates as “ultra flat”. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of classic dress watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava and the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, the Villeret Ultraplate is a simple design that’s easy to replicate, which is why similar styles can be found in cheap as well as expensive watches. What differentiates such watches is the quality of execution, particularly in the details. The dial of the Villeret Ultraplate is unadorned, and almost plain, but the Roman numerals are solid gold appliqués affixed to the dial by hand, adding much-needed height and texture to an otherwise flat dial. The slender, open-worked leaf hands also complement the simplicity of the design. Such hands are not overly common, making them appealing. And then there’s the date. While it adds extra utility that is appreciated by some, I am not a fan. The date hampers the purity and symmetry of the dial. With a retail price of a bit over US$8,000 in steel, the Villeret Ultraplate is competitively priced for a dress watch powered by a high-end, automatic movement. Extra-thin The case is ...
Video
An Absolute Mess, But I Kinda Love It: Tudor Black Bay 54 - The Best Swiss Dive Watch Under $4000?
When it comes to luxury Swiss made automatic divers from $5000 to $10,000, it's difficult to beat the big three—Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Tudor Pelagos. But under that price point, the water gets a litt...
SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Sports Watch
A marque revived via a crowdfunded effort in 2015, Czapek & Cie. has just announced its first sports watch, the Antarctique. The popularity of luxury-sports watches in steel makes that unsurprising, but the Antarctique is powered by a newly-developed, automatic movement with an interesting construction. Initial thoughts Doubtlessly conceived to cater to the current fad for luxury-sports watches in steel, the Antarctique is unsurprising in terms of design. While the overall look is reminiscent of a variety of watches, most notably the earlier-generation Girard-Perregaux Laureato, it manages to be different enough, in particularly with the C-shaped links. But more important and interesting is the movement inside, the SXH5. It was conceived by a team that includes prominent constructors like Emmanuel Bouchet, an independent watchmaker who is probably best known for the Harry Winston Opus 12, as well as Daniel Martinez, an independent constructor who worked at Sellita, MCT, and Greubel Forsey in the past. The SXH5 A large movement with high-quality features, the SXH5 has an interesting aesthetic that’s slightly inspired by vintage pocket watch movements but is clearly modern. And going by the photos, it also appears to be well finished. But the Antarctique is expensive – its price tag of US$18,900 is almost exactly the same as that of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. While the Antarctique probably has a more compelling and unusual movement, the Czapek brand ...
Quill & Pad
2 New Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Models With Vintage-Vibe Sepia Brown Dial For 2020
Vacheron Constantin launches two new brown-toned FiftySix models – Self-Winding and Complete Calendar – in 5N red gold cases. Elizabeth Doerr likes their retro vibe very much. What do you think?
Revolution
Introducing Vacheron Constantin’s New Les Cabinotiers Singing Birds
The famed watchmaker celebrates its 265th anniversary with a set of watches dedicated to the classic craft of enameling.
Revolution
BREAKING: Rolex, Patek, Tudor, Chopard & Chanel Quit Baselworld 2021
Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard and Chanel have announced that they will quit Baselworld 2021 for an alternate fair in April 2021 in parternship with FHH
Quill & Pad
5 New Watches For Women We Would Have Seen At Watches & Wonders (SIHH) 2020 By Cartier, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Hermès, And MB&F;
As just about every watch event has been canceled because of the coronavirus pandemic, Elizabeth Doerr highlights five new watches for women here that we would have seen for the first time at Watches & Wonders 2020.
Video
The Most Beautiful Cartier The World Forgot
YouTube is obsessed with the Santos, but there are so many cool Cartiers that are not Santos, let's explore!
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal: Colin’s Sinn 903 Chronograph
This is the story of T+T reader Colin's Sinn 903 Chronograph, which is based on a Breitling Navitimer dial.The post What Sealed The Deal: Colin’s Sinn 903 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
1944: Patek Philippe Ref. 1591, first Water Resistant Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch
It’s a leap year, and in the run-up to that special day Feb 29, Revolution takes a look at some of the Perpetual Calendars that mattered.
Quill & Pad
Happy Chinese New Year With 8 Auspicious Rat-Themed Watches From Jaquet Droz, Vacheron Constantin, Blancpain, Perrelet, Piaget, And Chopard
To celebrate the new Chinese Year of the Rat, some high-end watchmakers have created special editions depicting some form of the resourceful rodent. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at eight of them.
SJX Watches
The SJX Christmas Wishlist
I rarely write “listicles” but the holidays are always a good excuse for one: a run through of the year’s wants. It’s a wish list of watches I desire, and in a handful of instance bought, and not about the most significant or notable watches (which will be published just before the year’s end). Surprisingly the list is a pretty short one, and heavier on affordable watches than top of the line ones. That’s perhaps reflective of both the state of the industry – often saturated and occasionally unimaginative – and the fact that I’ve seen quite a lot. That being said, sometimes it’s the simple and affordable that surprises, like the Tudor P01, or something from an expected corner, like the Chanel Monsieur Edition Noire. High hopes Even for a price-is-no-object list there are barely any must-haves. The list of candidates was long, but most were crossed out for one reason or another. That also in part reflects the fact that the more expensive a watch is, the higher the standards it should be held to. The Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, for instance, is exceptionally interesting and smartly conceived, in fact, it’s one of the year’s best watch in terms of mechanics, but the design is a bit of a let down. Even in a more affordable tier of complicated watches, the wants come with caveats. The Hermes L’Heure de la Lune is unconventional and poetic, typically Hermes in style. Though its face is elegant, the case profile is less so; it is a ...
SJX Watches
Editorial: The Meaning of Quality in Vintage Watches
There are endless ways to collect in any category of art and collectibles, including watches. The easiest way is to buy whatever strikes one’s fancy, as a hobbyist’s pastime. Carried on over an extended period of time, one is bound to possess a sizeable collection, a mixed bag consisting of nice and, more likely than not, middling objects. But is this the best way? The alternative – and far more meaningful – way to collect, is the focus on quality. But just what, one may ask, is “quality”? In this day and age, it is a word thrown around a lot, by laymen, dealers, and collectors alike. To me, “quality”, first and foremost, refers to the significance of a given object. For the most serious collectors of timepieces made by Rolex and Patek Philippe – the two most important manufactures in watchmaking due to their continuous histories of producing illustrious craft – it entails the pursuit of models that are the most significant both aesthetically and technically. At the pinnacle of Rolex collecting lies the ref. 6062. Debuted at the Basel fair in 1950, the 6062 was the world’s first waterproof, self-winding wristwatch with complete calendar and moon phase (pictured at top, a steel Rolex ref. 6062 from 1953). One of only two original Rolex models with moon phase – the other being the non-waterproof ref. 8171 with snap-back case – the 6062 represented the epitome of postwar Rolex watchmaking: a complicated yet robust and accurate automatic movement s...
Video
The Shocking Truth: Why You Should NEVER Wear Apple & Smart Watches
Before you buy or decide to wear any form of “smart” watch, beware, as there are some real possible hidden dangers and risks hardly ever talked about online. This isn't just about potentially toxic plastics and el...
Revolution
Christian Selmoni & Vacheron Constantin’s La Musique du Temps
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department introduces a complete line up of one-off creations as part of their 2019 La Musique du Temps collection
SJX Watches
Introducing the Winners of the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
This year’s GPHG saw a total of no less than 196 watches entered into the running for one of the night’s awards. The jury, presided over by Aurel Bacs, then pre-selected 84 models, divided into 14 categories. The latter included four new awards – the Iconic Watch, Diver’s Watch, Calendar and Astronomy and Horological Revelation. The outcome is similar to last year’s, with a strong ratio of independents among the winners. Out of 18 watch awards, eight were awarded to independents including Kudoke (Petite Aiguille), Ming (Horological Revelation) and newcomer Genus, (Mechanical Exception), while virtuoso watchmaker Voutilainen scooped two awards (Men’s Watch and Artistic Crafts). The biggest winner of the evening was Audemars Piguet who took home three awards including the top prize – the Aiguille d’Or – for its Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The watch is the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar at just 6.3mm in height, achieved primarily by using a modified ultra-thin cal. 2120 as a base with a smartly designed perpetual calendar module on top that has an integrated end-of-month cam on the date wheel and a 48-month wheel with a novel geometry. Elsewhere, having lost to Genus in the Mechanical Exception category, Vacheron Constantin clinched the Innovation award with its Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar. The watch addresses the problem of having to reset a perpetual calendar that has lain dormant. It utilises two balances osci...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Bexei ‘Vox Vinum’ Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch
The only independent watchmaker in Hungary, Aaron Becsei, or more properly Becsei Áron, has created a distinctive style for his eponymous brand, Bexei – ornate, Gothic engraving; a double-ellipse case; and top-class movement finishing. His latest creation, a custom and unique grande and petite sonnerie wristwatch named Vox Vinum, is all of the above, except in a more conventional round case. Created at the behest of an important, Asian collector of independent watchmaking, the grande sonnerie took more than a year to complete. It is the first, and so far only, striking watch ever produced by Bexei. The Vox Vinum The grand sonnerie A grande et petite sonnerie – French for “large and small strike” – is widely regarded as the pinnacle of mechanical watchmaking. Also known as a clockwatch, it strikes the hours and quarters en passant, as they pass. And it is also a minute repeater, being able to chime the time on demand. Modern day grande sonnerie wristwatches are exceedingly rare – the number of watchmakers having produced one can be counted on both hands. The most notable makers of grande sonnerie wristwatches are Patek Philippe with its Grandmaster Chime, F.P. Journe with the recently discontinued Sonnerie Souverain, and Greubel Forsey as well as Vacheron Constantin, both of which use the same base movement in their respective grande sonnerie wristwatches. But the pioneers in the field were Philippe Dufour in 1992, and followed shortly after by Gerald Gen...
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Recommendations for a Patek Philippe Watch, from Our Archives
In this week's Throwback Sundays column, we take a look at some of our favourite Patek Philippe watches from our archives.
SJX Watches
Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch
One of Switzerland’s most important timepiece museums, the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), is raising funds with a limited edition, rising hours wristwatch that’s both cleanly styled and affordable. Arriving some 14 years after the first, minimalist MIH watch created by independent watchmakers Ludwig Oechslin and Paul Gerber, the MIH Gaïa watch, named after the annual Gaïa Prize given out by the MIH, is the result of a collaboration between watch industry suppliers located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the hometown of the MIH. The MIH Gaïa watch will be crowdfunded, and a minimum number of orders will be needed for it to enter production. Importantly, the MIH Gaïa watch is priced at about US$2400, half what the original MIH watch with an annual calendar cost about a decade ago, making it a compelling value proposition. A local collaboration Each aspect of the watch, from design to the case, was the work of a local supplier. Some are little known outside the industry, like buckle maker Cornu & Cie, while others are famous – the dial was made by Jean Singer & Cie, best known for the dials it made for Rolex and Patek Philippe in the mid 20th century. Slightly bowl-shaped, the case of the watch is inspired by the MIH building, while the domed dial is inspired by the spherical Gaïa Prize trophy. Time is indicated on two discs: rising hours in a window at 12 o’clock, and the the minutes on a disc just below. It’s a classically sized timepiece...
Video
50 Shades of Seiko: Understanding the Differences
Seiko makes a dizzying amount of watches, but let's break down the tiers and see if we can find a sweet spot within this lineup.