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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko there’s Jul 14, 2023

The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart

Seiko’s Presage lineup falls into an interesting place within the wide world of Seiko. Between Seiko 5 Sports, Prospex, Astron, King Seiko, and the separate Grand Seiko, there’s a lot to take in. The Presage line is meant to highlight Seiko’s watchmaking chops by combining a traditional Japanese sense of aesthetics with traditional techniques. The result is a lineup of watches that are elevated over your standard Seiko offerings with more advanced finishing and dial work, most of which tend to lean a bit dressy. The SPB417 we’re taking a look at today is right at home in the Presage lineup, with some really intriguing dial work, crisp applied indices, and an angular case that shows off a variety of finishing techniques. Let’s take a closer look at this brand-new offering from Seiko and all it has to offer. $ The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Case Stainless steel Movement 6R5J Dial Aitetsu blue with asanoha pattern Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 40.2 x 47.4mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $ Case Measuring 40.2mm wide by 47.4mm lug-to-lug, the SPB417 fits firmly in the mid-sized category. I would say that the measurements and case architecture line up, as the watch wears how the dimensions would imply. The watch is part of the “Sharp Edged” series, which debuted back in 2020 and has since grown to include several different models. One of the important fe...

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Citizen s “Unite Jul 14, 2023

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch

If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch SJX Watches
Breguet Bestows Jul 14, 2023

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch

Breguet has unveiled a unique version of its world time wristwatch for Only Watch, the highly anticipated charity auction. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 “Only Watch 2023” is dressed in striking, rich colours that are unusual for Breguet, bringing a new face to the jumping display, dual time sports watch with a dial that’s a twist on the traditional world map motif. The dial features a gilded globe that’s a representation of the lighted areas of the world at night. Initial thoughts Since its debut last year, the Marine Hora Mundi has remained a hidden gem. The watch boasts a clever jumping dual-time complication and it is also a luxury-sports watch, the most popular segment of watchmaking in recent years. While the production version of the Hora Mundi has a dial that feels relatively flat, the Only Watch edition is far more striking. The dial motif is a clever concept that has not been used before in watchmaking, where gilded accents are used to represent the world’s population. Moreover, the dial does away with the latitude and longitude lines found on the original, making the map and guilloche more prominent. Given the aesthetic appeal of this dial design, we hope that a similar design will be introduced for the regular production model following Only Watch. But for now, the charity auction will be the only chance to land this Hora Mundi. It carries an estimate of CHF70,000 to CHF80,000, a modest price estimate. It anticipated that this will be readily exceeded dur...

Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer Worn & Wound
Bulova Oceanographer Watch collecting has Jul 13, 2023

Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer

Watch collecting has a few rites of passage: Buying an Invicta on vacation. Eagerly purchasing too many watches and quickly filling a watch box. Experiencing buyer’s remorse and selling those watches to recover funds for future purchases. Seller’s remorse setting in, followed by repurchasing watches. With one exception, the Bulova Oceanographer helped me check all of those boxes. I purchased my first Oceanographer during the buying/selling frenzy many enthusiasts go through. Seeing watches in stores and at meetups is cool, but can’t compete with the experience of ownership. Ownership removes the fear of scratching a watch while learning how it feels in 90% humidity. It allows you to test if a bezel still turns after a day at the beach, and to find those annoying design flaws that only become apparent after a few days on the wrist.  $750 Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 821D Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet/rubber strap Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 44 x 46mm Thickness 15mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $750 For a couple years, I had a watch coming and going every month. It was a constant game of hunting for opportunities, always selling, trading and buying. Sometimes I’d make $50, sometimes I’d lose $50. Sometimes I’d organize a trade on Reddit, and anxiously wait to see if the person on the other end of the deal was scamming me (they never were)...

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication.  Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hits Jul 13, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph

These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera.  The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...

Frederique Constant Review: Brand History and All the Major Watch Coll Teddy Baldassarre
Frederique Constant Jul 12, 2023

Frederique Constant Review: Brand History and All the Major Watch Coll

Frederique Constant has been making watches for only 35 years, but the Geneva-based brand’s list of accomplishments, and its impressive and diverse roster of timepieces, might well convince you that it has been at the horology game much longer. In this feature, we trace the history of Frederique Constant, showcase its plentiful milestones over the course of three-plus decades, and introduce you to the standout models in the current Frederique Constant collection. 1988: The Foundations When Dutch entrepreneur Peter Stas and his wife Aletta Stas-Bax set out to establish the Swiss watch manufacturer Frederique Constant in 1988, they were rolling the dice on a business plan that was anything but a sure thing. The Quartz Crisis that had ravaged the traditional Swiss watch industry since the 1970s was still ongoing and the return of the luxury mechanical watch to prominence and collectibility had yet to ramp up in a major way. However, both the timing of the launch and the underserved niche that it targeted - affordable, elegant watches with Swiss mechanical movements for enthusiasts with relatively modest budgets - proved to be wise, as evidenced by the company still going strong in its 35th year, with an impressive string of milestones under its belt, which we’ll touch on below. Frederique Constant is today one of the largest Swiss watchmaking firms; the company doesn't disclose production numbers, but Peter Stas stated in 2019 that the goal was to increase capacity fr...

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend… Worn & Wound
Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jul 11, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend…

Now in its ninth year, and second in Chicago, the Windup Watch Fair is quickly becoming a fixture of the Chicago watch community. This weekend, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike will gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, as well as a full slate of FREE panels and programming. Read through the full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. Throughout the days, attendees can expect the latest watch releases, a live auction, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as an on-site watchmaker to adjust and swap straps for your newest or favorite collection pieces. We’re beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 14: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Now, ont...

[VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 Worn & Wound
Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 Jul 11, 2023

[VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417

Seiko expanded their popular Sharp Edge family earlier this year with the release of an open heart design in the reference SPB415 and SPB417. The Sharp Edge is a series we’ve been curious about since it was first introduced in 2020, and this latest release has finally given us a chance to go hands-on. Our full review on this watch (from our Ed Jelley) is coming soon, but we took the opportunity to get a quick first reaction when the watch landed in our office, and it wasn’t without a few surprises. Chief among them is that dial texture, which hits very differently than the press images.  Open heart dials are a bit polarizing, but Seiko takes an interesting approach here with the design of the section over the aperture. It feels elevated somehow. The dial is downright perplexing, taking on a different personality at varying angles and lighting situations. But in use, the case itself presents what might be the most compelling feature here, with large geometric surfaces and a mixture of finishes breathing life into the ergonomic profile. How that stands up to further scrutiny remains to be seen. This watch may not have fully won me over on the open heart concept, but it has made me quite keen on the Sharp Edge collection as a whole. Stay tuned for the full review coming later this week to for Ed’s feelings. Seiko. The post [VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Bell & Ross Collaborates with the Alpine F1 Team for a New Take on the BR 05 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Collaborates Jul 11, 2023

Bell & Ross Collaborates with the Alpine F1 Team for a New Take on the BR 05 Chronograph

The latest in the ever expanding lineup of the Bell & Ross BR 05 collection, their popular integrated bracelet sports watch, is a new chronograph reference featuring the colors of the Alpine F1 team, a Bell & Ross partner since 2016, when the team operated under the Renault banner. This is a follow up to a trio of 2021 releases marking the inaugural year of Alpine’s involvement on the F1 circuit, a set of chronographs that still make a lot of sense given the motorsport connection. The new watch builds on the aesthetic established by those that have come before it, combining the distinctive Alpine colorway with an integrated bracelet platform that has proven to be surprisingly durable and adaptable since it was launched in 2020. The phrase that comes up over and over again in Bell & Ross marketing materials for the BR 05 is “sport chic,” and we have to admit, it fits the bill. These are not pure sports or tool watches in the sense that we’ve always understood them. They’re made, primarily, to look nice. They have well executed integrated bracelets, eye-catching finishing with dramatic transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and an overall slender appearance. That’s the “chic.” The “sport” comes in the form of the watch’s specs, which put it on equal footing with its more tool watch focused companions in the Bell & Ross collection. The case and bracelet are made from stainless steel, water resistance is rated to 100 meters with a screw down c...

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time Worn & Wound
Jul 10, 2023

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time

Itay Noy, the Israeli watchmaker known for creative and whimsical calendar complications that take a philosophical view to the concept of time, is back with his latest creation, the Seven-Day Cycle. Announced just days ago and officially launching later this week at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, the Seven-Day Cycle is inspired by the idea of looking at the passing of time on a weekly, as opposed to daily, scale.  The centerpiece of the collection is the “Rest Day” watch. Rather than focusing on a daily progression of time, the watch seeks to visualize a weekly cycle. The day is indicated via skeletonized text around the dial’s perimeter, but instead of the day of the week, Itay Noy has given the days numerical values (first day, second day, third day, and so forth). The seventh day (by default) is marked as the “rest day” at the 12:00 position. Itay Noy notes that different religious traditions observe different rest days, so the rest day on the dial can be customized to the owner’s preferences. Dials are available in blue or white for this reference. The Seven-Day Cycle watch is also available in versions that name the days of the week in a more traditional way. The format, though, is largely the same, with skeletonized apertures spelling out the days of the week that are highlighted day by day as the week progresses. The blue and white dials seen in this version of the watch have dividing lines that should aid a bit in legibility, but all watches in the ...

Zodiac Adds a White Ceramic Super Sea Wolf to the Collection in Three Bold Colorways Worn & Wound
Zodiac Adds Jul 10, 2023

Zodiac Adds a White Ceramic Super Sea Wolf to the Collection in Three Bold Colorways

At the end of last year, Zodiac introduced a new ceramic version of their popular Super Sea Wolf dive watch. The stealthy black diver put a new, contemporary spin on a platform that’s existed for almost as long as dive watches themselves, and felt like a natural evolution of the Sea Wolf line. After all, plenty of brands are using ceramic these days – it’s a worthy material by any measure and makes a lot of sense for sports watches in particular, given its light weight and resistance to scratches and wear. Now, Zodiac has introduced a follow up, a ceramic Super Sea Wolf in a crisp white with brightly colored dials, just in time for the true dog days of summer.  These watches play into a tried and true formula that has served Zodiac remarkably well over the last years, which is to lean into bold colors layered over their classic dive watch design. The new white ceramic watches will be available in three variants: dark blue, lime green, and a silver and orange watch that feels like a nod to their popular “Sherbet” GMT from a few years ago. All of the dials have a subtle sunburst finish and the traditional rectangular hands and hour markers that are common to the Super Sea Wolf line. The case construction is the same as last year’s black ceramic model, which means these watches have what is essentially a ceramic shell that is fit over a steel core. The white color of the case and bezel makes for a great complement to the bold dial colors and accents, and immediat...

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023” SJX Watches
Omega Jul 10, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023”

For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial.  Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards.  But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...

Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2023

Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock

G-Shock is a brand who’s known for swinging wildly in two different directions, and few others can pull it off like they do. From the classic black square DW-5600 to the more wild offerings like this MTGB3000PRB1, they rarely miss. Inspired by the colorful natural phenomenon known as aurora borealis, where particles from solar winds interact with the Earth’s magnetic field and result in a stunning display of dancing light. The wide range of colors and textures that nature’s own little light show puts on can be seen in the design of the MTGB3000PRB1, where G-Shock has integrated some really cool material technology to replicate the look. Let’s dig in. G-Shock is a brand who’s known for swinging wildly in two different directions, and few others can pull it off like they do. From the classic black square DW-5600 to the more wild offerings like this MTGB3000PRB1, they rarely miss. Inspired by the colorful natural phenomenon known as aurora borealis, where particles from solar winds interact with the Earth’s magnetic field and result in a stunning display of dancing light. The wide range of colors and textures that nature’s own little light show puts on can be seen in the design of the MTGB3000PRB1, where G-Shock has integrated some really cool material technology to replicate the look. Let’s dig in. The post Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Eccentrica Lamborghini Diablo is Exactly what Dreams Are Made Of, a Surprising Release by Montblanc, & a Long Lost World War II Special Ops Submarine Discovered Worn & Wound
Montblanc & Jul 8, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Eccentrica Lamborghini Diablo is Exactly what Dreams Are Made Of, a Surprising Release by Montblanc, & a Long Lost World War II Special Ops Submarine Discovered

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Eccentrica Eccentrica’s Modern Take On The Lamborghini Diablo Is Slated To Make Its Debut Next Weekend At Goodwood Festival Of Speed Via Eccentrica In a week’s time, the Goodwood estate will host their annual Goodwood Festival of Speed where motor racing cars of all varieties will be whipping their way through the historic uphill circuit. Although the actual racing is the main attraction of the event, there’s an extraordinary Lamborghini planning to attend that will have something to say about that. It’s Eccentrica’s newly revealed Lamborghini Diablo Restomod that plans to make its first appearance. The modernized Diablo is strikingly cool and outfitted with all the modern fixings that take an already iconic vehicle up a notch or two. Via Eccentrica Like many of us who grew up in the 90’s, the Lamborghini Diablo was the dream car for Super Trofeo Lamborghini amateur driver and Eccentrica founder, Emanuel Colombini. Under his creative guidance and personal mission to bring the imperfectly perfect Diablo into the “now”, the Eccentrica Diablo is a dre...

Owner’s Review: The Arcanaut Arc II Fordite Worn & Wound
Jul 7, 2023

Owner’s Review: The Arcanaut Arc II Fordite

It’s a simple fact that the longer we’re involved in this hobby, the more difficult it is to get really excited about any particular new watch. It doesn’t mean we love the hobby, or watches, any less, but it’s a natural side effect of constantly being exposed to new stuff. I wouldn’t say I’ve become blasé or jaded about new watches as a whole, but let’s just say that over time, I’ve found it easier and easier to reach a point of objectivity when evaluating something. I was already perhaps a little less inclined to be emotionally attached to a watch, and with several release cycles under my belt as a “professional” in the industry and being fortunate enough to handle some of the coolest watches that have been made over the last several years, it’s easier, not harder, to see them for what they are, and to look beyond whatever marketing, Instagram, or collector hype is associated with it.  So, for me, it’s notable when I take a step back from a new watch and realize I’m getting excited about something the way that I used to, when I was new to the hobby and felt like every new watch I handled (or just read about) was a great new discovery. As I’ve seen others enter the hobby since I’ve gotten involved, I’m frequently jealous of that feeling – I think it’s something all of us, regardless of our experience level – are chasing. Why wouldn’t we? If it’s a healthy intellectual curiosity about the history and stories behind these objects t...