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Monochrome
There is something happening in terms of watchmaking in France at the moment… Something quite interesting, if I must be honest, and I’m not saying this only because I’m French. We’re witnessing a resurgence of French watchmaking, with brands such as Yema delivering accessible watches equipped with made-in-France manufacture movements, or Trilobe recently unveiling an […]
Monochrome
There’s no denying that the love for independent watchmaking is on the rise. Throughout the past couple of years, we have also very happily seen a growing interest in artisanal watchmaking. Creating watches by hand, with traditional tools and techniques and hours and hours of labour. This time around, we have another new name lined […]
Monochrome
Ready for take-off…? There’s a new chapter in the flight instrument collection by Bell & Ross and it’s named the BR-X3. While the Parisian brand’s history goes back to 1992, B&R; is mostly known for its striking aviation-inspired watches, following the launch of the BR-01 in 2005. Sometimes design-oriented, sometimes functional, but almost always linked […]
Time+Tide
Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025, this Bianchet claims the title of the thinnest fully sapphire tourbillon watch in the world.The post Bianchet’s new UltraFino is here to break records with a new full sapphire tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Do you remember the famous Tissot RockWatch? If so, you are probably over 40 years old. The original RockWatch debuted in 1985 and quickly became famous for its use of a granite case. Not only did it become hugely popular all across the globe, but it also sparked an entire collection of natural stone watches […] Visit Tissot Brings Back The Iconic RockWatch As A Limited Edition to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
The 80s icon is back, this time hewn from Swiss Alpine granite and brought up to date with modern dimensions and refinements.The post The Tissot RockWatch returns with a granite-based limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
This has been a great year for American watchmaking. It just feels like there’s an interest in watches made in America that I haven’t really observed in years past. There are a few reasons for this, I think, including the continued uncertainty regarding tariffs placed on imported watches from Switzerland and elsewhere, as well as a handful of brands that are doing some very interesting things here in the United States, and rethinking what defines “American watchmaking” to begin with. And while I’m genuinely very excited about new brands like Cornell, 5280, Typsim, and a variety of others that bring new ideas to the American watchmaking landscape and are indeed actively producing components for their timepieces in America, it’s worth reminding ourselves that some brands have been doing interesting things on these shores for years. Roland Murphy is a legendary figure in contemporary American watchmaking, and for those of us celebrating a renewed interest in domestic watch manufacturing, Roland and his RGM brand need to be part of the conversation. RGM was founded in 1992, and Roland and his team have been consistently pushing the envelope forward in American watch production ever since. Based in Lancaster, PA (the historic home of Hamilton before the Swatch Group acquisition and a move to Switzerland) RGM produces a variety of watches that showcase American watchmaking in different ways. The catalog consists of watches with American made movements, dials decora...
Fratello
It was one year ago that Awake introduced the Sơn Mài collection, ushering in a significant change for the young French brand. The watches, with their Vietnamese handmade dials, found immediate success. A combination of laquer, pigment, and silver leaf results in inky-abyss-like levels of depth to each dial. Now, to celebrate a year since […] Visit Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Silver Vignette Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hamilton has always had deep ties to aviation. From synchronising the first U.S. airmail flights in the 1910s to timing pilots through WWI and WWII, and the jet age, the brand’s Khaki Aviation collection continues this legacy with watches designed for professionals and enthusiasts. The Khaki Aviation X-Wind was developed in 2005 with aerobatic champion […]
Time+Tide
Seiko follows 2023's SRPK50J 'Irori Moments' and 2024's SRPL20J 'Ichigo Ichie' with a Negroni rather than whisky -inspired Cocktail Time.The post From whiskies to Negronis: Seiko continues its run of cocktail-inspired Australasian limited editions with the Presage SRPL96J ‘The Conte’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko Prospex SPB143 debuted back in 2020, alongside three other dive watches that represented a modern reimagining of the classic 62MAS from 1965. These were warmly received, in part due to their smaller case sizes and relatively accessible price points at a time when those two issues were beginning to become regular sticking points for enthusiasts. The SPB143 that I am reviewing here has gone on to become a beloved staple in Seiko’s higher-end Seiko Luxe family, due to just how much it offers for the $1,200 price tag. This mechanical dive watch has real vintage roots and while it isn’t perfect, represents how Seiko really has the ability to dominate this category. It’s not easy to stand out as a Seiko diver, considering how many iconic collections we have from the brand that brought us the Turtle, Marinemaster, Tuna, SKX, and others. But, by sticking to the best aspects of the 62MAS while incorporating state-of-the-art machining and manufacturing capabilities, Seiko hit it out of the park with the SPB143. Before I get into the nitty gritty of the watch, let’s take a brief look at the history it’s drawing from. The Seiko 62MAS Connection Though the story of the 62MAS has been told countless times at this point, it remains foundational to understanding the SPB143. Back in 1965, Seiko released its -and indeed Japan’s - first dive watch, which was the 62MAS. This watch was water-resistant to 150 meters and was put through its paces when crew members of th...
SJX Watches
Advanced digital watches haven’t deterred leading Japanese brands from continuing to earnestly develop high-accuracy quartz watches in analog formats. Chief among them is Seiko, which has just unveiled two new limited editions of its satellite-linked Astron GPS Solar. While the SSJ037 appears to be a simple time-only watch and the SSH185 looks like a straightforward dual-time chronograph, each watch is solar-powered and includes an electronic perpetual calendar. Limited to 1,500 pieces for the SSJ037 and 1,200 pieces for the SSH185, the new collection is sci-fi inspired, featuring colours and textures common to fictional depictions of space stations. Initial thoughts There are a couple different approaches to making high-accuracy quartz watches. The first is pretty obvious, and involves developing ever-more precise quartz oscillators. Seiko has long been a champion of this school of thought, although Citizen has inched ahead in recent years. The other approach is to make a reasonably precise quartz movement that automatically syncs with an external signal, which might be a radio signal broadcast from any of the atomic reference clocks positioned around the world, a bluetooth signal from the user’s phone, or, in the case of the Astron, a satellite signal. Since the brand debuted this technology in 2012, Seiko has refined things making the watches sleeker and the interface more intuitive. As a result, the time-only SSJ037 is an ordinary 42 mm in diameter and 12 mm thick;...
Monochrome
Briston, the young, independent French brand with a portfolio of accessible, retro-inspired watches with fun, faux tortoiseshell cases, releases new models in its Clubmaster Legend collection. Presented in the classic cushion-shaped cases that define the collection, the new time-only references feature closed dials or open-heart designs, delivering an appealing blend of vintage design cues and […]
Fratello
Just before Geneva Watch Days kicked off, I joined the team from WRK Timepieces for a rather special moment. Caroline and Nasko, the husband-and-wife duo behind WRK, were about to receive the very first fully functioning prototype of their latest creation, the ACF-02, and they invited me along with them. The delivery took place at […] Visit From Concept To Reality: My First Hands-On With The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Farer, a British indie brand, debuted in 2015 with watches designed in London and produced in Switzerland. With an extensive portfolio ranging from characterful three-handers to GMTs, as well as chronographs, integrated sports watches, and compressor-style dive watches, the brand’s keen eye for design is paying off. Coupled with its direct-to-consumer business model, which eliminates intermediaries, prices […]
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Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK is taking over the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom for a full weekend of deals and demos, and you’re invited! From Thursday, September 18th through Sunday, September 21st, the Showroom will feature an expanded selection of watches from G-SHOCK, CASIO, EDIFICE, and PROTrek (while supplies last). Special, showroom-only pricing will be available, along with exclusive swag, so you don’t want to miss it. Members of the G-SHOCK team will also be on-site all weekend to answer your questions, and a G-SHOCK drop test machine will be in place to demonstrate the Absolute Toughness of G-SHOCKs first hand. G-SHOCK is taking over the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom for a full weekend of deals and demos, and you’re invited! From Thursday, September 18th through Sunday, September 21st, the Showroom will feature an expanded selection of watches from G-SHOCK, CASIO, EDIFICE, and PROTrek (while supplies last). Special, showroom-only pricing will be available, along with exclusive swag, so you don’t want to miss it. Members of the G-SHOCK team will also be on-site all weekend to answer your questions, and a G-SHOCK drop test machine will be in place to demonstrate the Absolute Toughness of G-SHOCKs first hand. The post Your Invited To A G-SHOCK Event In The Windup Watch Shop Showroom! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
In this episode, we are hosted by Delugs in their boutique. Introducing Delugs and proceed to discuss ChatGPT's picks for travel watches.
Time+Tide
Leroy returns to high-end watchmaking, reviving the Osmior collection with a tourbillon and a minute repeater all in one.The post L.Leroy is staging another comeback with the complicated Osmior Bal du Temps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko divers might very well be some of the most sought-after in the enthusiast community. I say “enthusiast” because they aren’t always the entry point into Seiko, or into watches, for that matter, for the everyday consumer. I would think something like an entry-level Presage or any watch fit for the office is more desired in that regard. But, we don’t call them desk divers for nothing, and I personally have worn and still wear Seiko divers to work, but that’s neither here nor there. In fact, the same can be said of the subject watch for today’s review: The Seiko SNE573 as well as other variants of the 38.5mm Prospex Solar Divers like the SNE583 and SNE585, which were discontinued this past Summer. Its discontinuation adds it to a hallowed list of watches that have received similar treatment by Seiko, namely the vaunted SKX series, which has achieved iconic status rivaled by a small few watches in history. But we can also add a bevvy of Willard-esque Prospex models to the list including the SPB 153 green Willard – a personal favorite. When a Seiko dive watch goes the way of the trees, it achieves a kind of immortality and heightened demand that takes a once value-packed product into a new pricing universe, but less talk about price and more talk about a handsome piece of solar diving kit that is no longer commercially available in an official capacity at retail. Seiko SNE573 Brief History I use the word “brief” because, well, this watch had quite a short...
Deployant
Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium marks a new chapter in the brand’s ongoing exploration of mechanical and material innovation. Limited to just 50 pieces, this 43mm timepiece features a ruthenium-based Crystalium hour disc-each one uniquely formed through a vapor-deposition crystallization process. Priced at CHF 40,000, the watch pairs its shimmering dial with a black DLC-coated titanium case and the automatic UN-230 flying carousel movement.
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Time+Tide
Building upon the Milgraph from 2024, Micromilspec launches its new Pilot series with the Pilot Worldtimer for Geneva Watch Days 2025.The post Micromilspec aims skyward with its new Pilot Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch - from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...
Fratello
Echo/Neutra has been carving out its little corner of the watch world since 2018. The brand’s founders, Nicola Callegaro and Cristiano Quaglia, blend Italian design sensibilities with Swiss-made execution, and the catalog has steadily grown from vintage-inspired field watches to elegant titanium dress pieces. The new Averau 42, however, is a different beast altogether. It’s […] Visit Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package to read the full article.
SJX Watches
There were few brands as hot as Panerai in the 2000s, and now the brand is revisiting its glory days with the Luminor Marina Militare 44 mm PAM05218. Visually, the PAM05218 a faithful remake of the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A of 1993, a “Pre-Vendome” model that became one of the most desirable watches of the 2000s. The watch retains the same design and many of the details, including the “non matching” hands, but has been upgraded with modern amenities, including a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating for the case and a three-day movement. Initial thoughts Enthusiasts who were in the hobby in the 2000s will remember the frenzy around Panerai, which was probably the fastest growing brand during the period. Many models sold over retail, sometimes for multiples. The “vintage” models like the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A were even more valuable; it cost a healthy, mid-five figures at the time. In fact, the ref. 5218-202/A cost more than an F.P. Journe Resonance at the time. In retrospect, most of it was comical yet also seems familiar given the happenings in recent years. Times have changed, but the PAM05218 is essentially unchanged from the original – which is great for those who appreciate the functional, stark design of Panerai’s core models. I like those designs, and I like the PAM05218. If there’s one Panerai in the current catalogue I would buy, it is this one. At a distance, the PAM05218 is indistinguishable from the original, but up close it is clearly a new watc...
SJX Watches
While the industry resumes normal operations following Geneva Watch Days, we’re taking a quick detour to the Italy to see what Ondřej Berkus has been up to. The Deadbeat Seconds 2.0 is the latest delivery from the self-taught watchmaker and is a good example of how far his watchmaking has come in recent years. As the name suggests, the DS 2.0 is the second watch Mr Berkus has made in this style, but like all of his creations, the two are remarkably different in execution. Initial thoughts There’s a reassuring degree of predictability to the luxury watch industry. It’s a conservative industry built on tradition, which reinforces unspoken norms about what counts as a high end watch. The result is conformity; most watchmakers march to a similar beat and stick to their respective niches. This uniformity helps customers understand the products, but as a consequence many of the products can be criticised as homogenous and impersonal. In contrast, the watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus is refreshingly human. He has no formal website, and conducts business via Instagram. He does not release collections, and no two pieces are entirely alike; each watch is created in dialogue with a collector. A self-taught watchmaker, Mr Berkus manages to pull this off thanks in part to his distinctive approach to finishing. While most contemporary independent watchmakers focus on simple movements executed to a high level, Mr Berkus flips the script, and strives to deliver watches that are unique...
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