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Introducing – The New Longines Conquest Chrono Ski Limited Edition Monochrome
Longines Conquest Chrono Ski Limited Oct 31, 2024

Introducing – The New Longines Conquest Chrono Ski Limited Edition

Longines is renowned for its dedication to sports, so it’s no surprise that as the leading partner of the International Ski Federation (FIS) and Official Timekeeper for both the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup and the FIS World Championships, the brand chose to celebrate the upcoming 48th FIS Alpine Ski World Championship in Saalbach, Austria, […]

The Timex “Yankee Dollar” Watch Returns Worn & Wound
Timex Yankee Dollar” Watch Returns Oct 31, 2024

The Timex “Yankee Dollar” Watch Returns

In the aftermath of World War II, Timex-known initially as The Waterbury Clock Company-sought to leverage the United States manufacturing experience gained during the war. The company aimed to produce affordable timing devices as an alternative to more expensive European models. In 1954, they aimed to make timekeeping accessible to everyone, resulting in the creation of the Yankee Dollar watch, which was priced at exactly one dollar. These watches found their way into the hands and pockets of everyday Americans; even Samuel Clemens paid a dollar for one. It is said that this was “the watch that made the dollar famous.” In recent years, Timex has introduced several editions of its Waterbury watches, each unique in its own way. However, nothing compares to what they have planned for November 16th. To celebrate its 170th anniversary, Timex will launch a Limited Edition Waterbury timepiece priced at just one dollar, reminiscent of the original Yankee Dollar watch. Yes, you read that correctly-it will be only one dollar! These Waterbury timepieces are typically priced at $119. A letter to Timex from Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) The Timex Waterbury 170th Anniversary Limited Edition will be built on their 40mm Waterbury platform, which is 10mm thick and has a lug width of 20mm, thus providing countless strap options. Instead of a flat white dial with a printed minute track and Roman numerals, it is replaced by an elegant 3D lacquered white dial with Roman numeral markers...

First Look – The New Louis Erard Régulateur Gravé Noir, with Reimagined Sector Dial Monochrome
Louis Erard Régulateur Gravé Noir Oct 31, 2024

First Look – The New Louis Erard Régulateur Gravé Noir, with Reimagined Sector Dial

Sector dials, with their unique segmented layouts designed over a century ago for improved readability, have a lasting appeal that continues to inspire modern watchmakers. Today, many brands incorporate sector dial watches into their collections, and Louis Erard – founded in 1929 during the peak of this design’s popularity – is no exception. Its Excellence […]

Hands-On with the New Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic Oct 31, 2024

Hands-On with the New Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic

Over the course of two years, the Bel Canto has fundamentally changed the way many watch lovers view Christopher Ward. This has been discussed in depth here and elsewhere, and is without a doubt one of the biggest stories in the watch world in the last decade or so. It’s changed the brand itself in a meaningful way as well. To meet demand since the launch of the Bel Canto, Christopher Ward has increased production of the watch from 50 pieces per month to 500, and there’s still a months long wait. That means that we haven’t seen Christopher Ward operate from the usual playbook when a brand has a hit new release. There have been vanishingly few limited editions and collaborative versions of the Bel Canto, with the brand instead electing to concentrate on fulfilling a backlog of orders. That’s admirable, in my opinion, but it means we haven’t seen much in the way of refinements or updates to the core Bel Canto design. And that’s perfectly fine. The Bel Canto is still very much a new watch in the grand scheme of watch history, and certainly doesn’t need an update.  Today, though, marks a new chapter in the short history of the Bel Canto with the launch of the new C1 Bel Canto Classic. This is the first serious adjustment to the look and feel of the Bel Canto since the watch debuted in the fall of 2022. The changes are (mostly) pretty subtle, but it offers a small glimpse of how the watch might continue to be refined in the future.  The most obvious change in th...

First Look – The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Oct 31, 2024

First Look – The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna

TAG Heuer and Senna Brand team up to celebrate Brazilian racing driver Ayrton Senna with a limited edition chronograph and tourbillon. As the watch brand most closely associated with motorsports, TAG Heuer’s partnership with Senna began in 1988 and continued until his tragic death in 1994 at the San Marino Grand Prix. On the 30th […]

TAG Heuer Remembers Ayrton Senna with Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Remembers Ayrton Senna Oct 31, 2024

TAG Heuer Remembers Ayrton Senna with Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon

Legendary Formula 1 champion Ayrton Senna was a longtime TAG Heuer ambassador up until his death in 1994. On the 30th anniversary of his passing, the Brazilian driver is coming back to the fore with TAG Heuer unveiling the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna just in time for the premiere of the Netflix series Senna. Based on the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport, the Senna edition is presented in titanium, carbon composite, and the colours of the Brazilian flag. It bears the driver’s emblem on the carbon composite and hour register at nine, while the case back depicts a helmeted Senna. Senna himself frequently wore the TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25.706C multi-function, which will also be seen in the upcoming television series Initial thoughts TAG Heuer is in some ways an underdog – because of its many affordable offerings, its higher-end models sometimes don’t get enough attention. The Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, for instance, is a vintage-inspired but original design that’s appealing and powered by an in-house movement. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is an integrated chronograph with automatic winding, plus a flying tourbillon, albeit an industrial movement. The big and bold styling isn’t the retro-inspired design that Heuer enthusiasts appreciate, but the Senna edition is executed well and priced right. Personally speaking, the Senna edition is not my style - there are too Senna elements in the design, unlike the low-key regular-production version. However...

Hands-On With The New Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic Fratello
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic Oct 31, 2024

Hands-On With The New Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic

Christopher Ward surprised friend and foe with the C1 Bel Canto in November 2022. It perfectly symbolized the brand’s talent for democratizing luxury watches. Today, one day before the model’s second anniversary, CW introduces a new version. I have had the chance to try the new Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic. This is how […] Visit Hands-On With The New Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus Oct 31, 2024

Fratello Talks: The Patek Philippe Cubitus

This week on Fratello Talks, we examine the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Nacho, Lex, and Daan join forces to discuss this hotly debated release from one of the world’s most prestigious watch brands. Initially leaked via a magazine ad, the watch did not receive the warmest welcome from watch enthusiasts. And despite journalists at the launch […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Patek Philippe Cubitus to read the full article.

Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho” Oct 31, 2024

Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s

One of the most intriguing and significant watches in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auction on November 11 is Breguet no. 3218, a tonneau-shaped wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and retrograde date sold in 1935. In all likelihood the first wristwatch ever with these complications, no. 3218 is also notable for its provenance: the original owner was Paul Iribe, Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. The watch is going under the hammer with a low estimate of CHF100,000 – modest considering its significance. According to Christie’s, there are only four known wristwatches with perpetual calendar and retrograde date made in the first half of the 20th century, regardless of brand, and this is one of them. Two others were also made by Breguet, while the final example is the unique Patek Philippe ref. 96 (no. 860’182) that is the classic round Calatrava case. This watch, no. 3218, is the earliest of the four, making it likely the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date. (Another wristwatch retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater is known, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that is also tonneau-shaped.) The 18k white gold case remains well preserved Beyond its intrinsic features, no. 3218 is also historically interesting for its first owner. The watch was sold by Breguet in May 1935 – for a then-astronomical 10,000 francs – to Paul Iribe, a French designer who is perhaps most famous for being Coco Chanel’s lover. In September 1935, not...

Hands-On: the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III Worn & Wound
Timex made tennis-themed Snoopy watches Oct 30, 2024

Hands-On: the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III

Tennis is having a bit of a moment. From the tennis-core revival Zendaya seems to have inspired to the hordes of people (and celebrities, who we all know aren’t people) who descended on Flushing Meadows earlier this fall for what turned out to be the most attended tennis tournament ever, tennis has taken center stage in a way few might have expected even a few years ago. And for all those looking to lean into the undeniably great looks of the tennis world, Maurice de Mauriac has you covered with the latest iteration of their Rallymaster tennis watch, produced in collaboration with Racquet Magazine. Historically, tennis players don’t wear watches and, yet, tennis and watches have long been visibly connected. Pretty much every top-flight player on the WTA at ATP tours has some sort of watch deal, and post-match pressers have become ripe material for watch-spotting. Despite this link, the concept of a ‘tennis watch’ remains somewhat nebulous. Tennis-themed watches have been around for a while (Timex made tennis-themed Snoopy watches as far back as the early ‘70s, or even late ‘60s), but the idea of the on-court tennis watch - like the highly technical pieces worn by players like Rafa Nadal or Jess Pegula - is relatively new. In the context of the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster series, what we have is a tennis watch in the more traditional sense. By this, I mean to say that the Rallymaster line falls more in line with the Snoopy tennis watches of old (or of ear...

In-Depth – The Steel Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821A on the Wrist Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection – Oct 30, 2024

In-Depth – The Steel Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821A on the Wrist

This was, by far, the most anticipated launch of the year, but also (and unsurprisingly) the most discussed and commented new release of 2024. In fact, I can’t recall witnessing such an amount of reactions from the watch community since the launch of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection – which, for several reasons, shouldn’t […]

Hands-On With The Surprisingly Impressive Echo/Neutra Rivanera Fratello
Oct 30, 2024

Hands-On With The Surprisingly Impressive Echo/Neutra Rivanera

It’s time for a confession: dress watches are generally not for me. This is due to my predominantly casual everyday style and a lack of formal events in my life for which a dress watch would be most appropriate. But that doesn’t say anything about my passionate love for the genre. Dress watches show a […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprisingly Impressive Echo/Neutra Rivanera to read the full article.

Tudor Announces the FXD “Zulu Time,” the First Pelagos with a GMT Complication Worn & Wound
Tudor Announces Oct 30, 2024

Tudor Announces the FXD “Zulu Time,” the First Pelagos with a GMT Complication

Sooner or later, you just knew it was going to happen. For as long as there’s been a Pelagos, and as long as there’s been a Tudor GMT movement, and as long as there’s been a human impulse to speculate, there’s been a call for the Swiss brand to release a Pelagos with the ability to track multiple time zones. It just makes sense for the brand’s most tool-forward dive watch: GMTs are what the people want and it’s an undeniably useful feature. And so, like an infinite number of chimpanzees at an infinite number of typewriters are certain to eventually produce the works of Shakespeare, now Tudor has finally issued a diver with all the features their loyal fans have been asking for. Titanium case: check. GMT movement with chronometer certification: check. Rotating 24 hour bezel: check. Spring bars: hey, no one has it all.  The all new Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” might feel like an inevitability on the one hand, but on the other it still has a fascinating mix of little quirks that are capable of surprising even the most loyal Tudor fans (and speculators). Like the very first Pelagos FXD, this one is presented under a partnership with the French military. Specifically, the Zulu Time has been developed with the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation) in mind, and according to the brand the watch has been designed for the “adverse real-world conditions” faced by their personnel. For the original FXD, that meant a bi-directional bezel set up in...

Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Oct 30, 2024

Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” has just become the latest addition to the brand’s collection. This titanium GMT watch uses the Pelagos FXD as a base, adding a 24-hour bezel, 24-hour hand, and a new METAS-certified movement. The result is the brand’s most accurate and adventure-ready watch to date. Speaking of dates, this […] Visit Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.

Universal Genève Returns with Gregory Bruttin at the Helm SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis who was Oct 30, 2024

Universal Genève Returns with Gregory Bruttin at the Helm

Having been acquired last year by Breitling’s private equity owners, Universal Genève is now officially back in business with both a new chief as well as website – though the new watches will only arrive in autumn 2026. Breitling chief executive Georges Kern takes the same role at Universal, but the managing director will be Gregory Bruttin, a two-decade veteran of Roger Dubuis who was its longtime head of product. An engineer and constructor by training, Mr Bruttin will oversee the development of Universal’s new collection of watches. A once-storied brand founded in 1894, Universal has been dormant for a decade or more. While its historical timepieces like the Tri-Compax and A. Cairelli split-seconds are desirable, the brand has not launched a hit product in a long time. The Tri-Compax Mr Bruttin has no doubt been tasked to fix that. His technical credentials are impeccable – he led the creation of an impressive stable of in-house movements at Roger Dubuis, though his past work was far from the heritage-focused brand that Universal will be. While challenging, Mr Bruttin’s job will be made easier by the fact that Breitling has its own manufacture and corresponding in-house chronograph calibres. The 1950s split-seconds chronograph made for the Italian air force While the launch of the rebooted brand’s first collection is still two years away, Universal is embarking on an immediate plan of brand building. In November the brand will mark the 70th anniversary of t...

Introducing – The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Date Caramel Limited Edition Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Date Oct 30, 2024

Introducing – The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Date Caramel Limited Edition

With CEO Davide Cerrato at the helm, Bremont has streamlined its offer into three fundamental pillars, offering rugged tool watches for airborne, seaborne and land exploration. The Terra Nova is Bremont’s vintage-styled field watch inspired by early 20th-century military pocket watches with contemporary specifications. The latest Terra Nova is a new take on the 40.5mm […]

First Look – The New Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table, the Omniscient Merlin Edition Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Knights Oct 30, 2024

First Look – The New Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table, the Omniscient Merlin Edition

Roger Dubuis, the “Hyper Horology brand” (as it calls itself), has embraced a Middle Ages myth since 2013 with the launch of its Knights of the Round Table series, crafting several métier d’art pieces since. The first edition featured 12 intricately engraved micro-sculptures of the legendary knights, their swords drawn and pointing towards the centre. […]

Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Oct 30, 2024

Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic

You’re right; this isn’t the recently introduced two-hand Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface in its almost-true-to-1931 size. This is “only” the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds version that the brand added to its collection during last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva. However, it still feels quite new, especially next to its blue, red, […] Visit Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary WatchAdvice
Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar Oct 30, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

With major wrist presence and even more cool factor, we’ve gone hands-on with the 140th Anniversary Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar! What We Love: The rose gold and black colour combination looks great The skeleton dial gives depth and character to the piece The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear. What We Don’t: The onion crown can be a little finicky to unscrew/screw It won’t fit or suit all wrist sizes being 44mm The dial can appear busy at first glance Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 As you may well have heard, this year marks the 140th Anniversary of Breitling. It’s a big birthday for the brand, now headed up by Georges Kern, who in recent years has gone back through the history of Breitling and helped to re-define the brand. With new models that harken back to its past, and the vision that Leon Breitling had all the way back in 1884, through to when his son, Gaston took over the business and launched their patented chronograph in 1932, to the days of the icons under Willy Breitling, it’s no wonder there is such a large and illustrious back catalogue to take inspiration from! So celebrate its 140th Anniversary, Breitling released three perpetual calendars, at Geneva Watch Days 2024 – A Premier, Navitimer and Super Chronomat. According to Georges Kern, they couldn’t do justice to the 140 years of history with just one watch, so they went with th...

Introducing: The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Neugraphit - With Live Photos Fratello
Oct 29, 2024

Introducing: The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Neugraphit - With Live Photos

The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik is one of the brand’s most popular offerings. Now, in addition to silver, green, and blue dials, the model is available in Neugraphit, a dark gray tone. If you’re concerned that it’s another gray-and-white Bauhaus design, rest your fears because Sternglas has added bright colors to the mix. When considering what […] Visit Introducing: The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Neugraphit - With Live Photos to read the full article.

Review: Neobrutalist Horology & the Kollokium Projekt 01 Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 29, 2024

Review: Neobrutalist Horology & the Kollokium Projekt 01

About 15 years ago I came across a brand out of the Netherlands called d.m.h. which was, in reality, a single person by the name of Fred Dingemans, working out of a shed in his backyard. His creations were raw and slightly impractical, but they were also a pure expression of creativity, and unwaveringly original. These watches were captivating at a glance, showcasing a similar level of creative fidelity to what we were seeing from the likes of Urwerk and MB&F; at the time. This is a quality sorely taken for granted these days, with most of the newcomers wisely choosing to play it safe with practical, conventionally attractive creations that can go anywhere, and do anything.  I have a well-documented love of practical tool watches that can go anywhere and do anything, but I often lament the homogeneous nature of watch design that this trend has brought us to. Truly novel expressions are a rare sight these days, but there has been exactly one to cross my radar over the past year that has brought a similar feeling to seeing a d.m.h. watch all those years ago, and that is the kollokium projekt 01.  My first glimpse of kollokium came when I spotted one on the wrist of one of the co-founders while attending the Dubai Watch Week events of 2023. This individual, uncoincidentally, is also responsible for the avant-garde creations coming out of Louis Errard these days. His name is Manuel Emch, and he is one of three men (the others being Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) behind koll...