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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

What is it with Perth and Daytonas? Glenn explains his ‘unusual’ 116500LN in the days after Horology House scandal Time+Tide
Feb 24, 2020

What is it with Perth and Daytonas? Glenn explains his ‘unusual’ 116500LN in the days after Horology House scandal

The week before last, three members of the T+T team went on a national roadshow. Though, in reality, it was more of an airshow, considering we covered more than a lazy 10,000km in six days. The goal was to meet members of the Time+Tide Club in their own cities. It was a magical mystery tour … ContinuedThe post What is it with Perth and Daytonas? Glenn explains his ‘unusual’ 116500LN in the days after Horology House scandal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 2: The hardest Oris to get on earth? Time+Tide
Oris Jan 21, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 2: The hardest Oris to get on earth?

Hodinkee’s extraordinary run of sold-out limited edition models only became more of a water-cooler conversation topic when the 250-run of the Oris Divers Sixy-Five Limited Edition for Hodinkee was released, to be sold out in less than 10 minutes. The team generously offer one of their own brand new archive models of the highly sought … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 2: The hardest Oris to get on earth? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic? Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo better Jan 20, 2020

Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic?

We’re not even a month into 2020 but already Bulgari has released a collection of stunning new references in the Octo Finissimo range, with two standout pieces in steel and ceramic. But which piece is more compelling? The team share their thoughts. James Robinson – Team Steel The biggest news, by far, coming out of … ContinuedThe post Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Avenger Blackbird Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Avenger Blackbird Review Despite Dec 11, 2019

Breitling Avenger Blackbird Review

Despite recent turbulent times (pun intended #avgeek), under the guidance of Georges Kern and team, Breitling has re-established itself with a robust and cohesive line up of watches.  Today, we take a closer look at a staple of the “air collection”, The Avenger, but more specifically, a newer addition, The Blackbird. Designed to be sleek and stealthy, this particular Breitling is a little different to the usual polished steel cases usually offered.  CASE:  Titanium has certainly gained popularity in recent years. Breitling went one step further and went full stealth mode, coating the large 48mm case (before you stop reading, there’s a 44mm option also), with “a highly resistant black carbon-based treatment,” aka DLC coating from what I’ve researched.  While large in diameter, case thickness of 14.8mm and a lug width of 24mm (tapers to buckle), it’s surprisingly comfortable on wrist. The curved lugs combined with a canvas strap, allows the wearer to anchor down the watch, while the flat, untreated, screw-down caseback ensures a low profile is maintained.  The 60 minutes, unidirectional bezel is smooth in operation and clicks into position cleanly. On the media model shown, there was a small amount of back-play; however, I’m confident this would be corrected by the small retaining screws found around the bezel edging.  Inside, keeping time is the Breitling B17 movement (a base ETA 2892-A2) that is CSOSC certified, with 42hrs of flight time. The knurled,...

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels” SJX Watches
Breitling Nov 20, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels”

Having recently coming a licensee of the U.S. Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron, better known as the Blue Angels, IWC is marking the occasion with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”. Already the longtime licensee for the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School – hence the Pilot’s Watch Top Gun editions – IWC is the latest watchmaker to sign with the Blue Angels. The team has had several watchmakers become licensees over the years, first Breitling in the 1990s, followed by Citizen. The new Blue Angels chronograph is in blue and yellow, the colours of the Blue Angels’ emblem. The dial is a dark, metallic blue with a yellow track for the hours. The case is in matte black ceramic and measures 44.5mm wide. The Blue Angels logo engraved on the back Inside is the cal. 89361, the brand’s top of the line, in-house chronograph. It’s an automatic movement with IWC’s signature Pellaton winding mechanism. The chronograph has both a flyback function as well as the hour and minute registers co-axial at 12 o’clock. Key facts and price Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels” Ref. IW389008 Diameter: 44.5mm Height: 15.7mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 89361 Functions: Time, date, and flyback chronograph Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz Power reserve: 68 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Limited edition: No Availability: From November 2019, at both boutiques and retailers Price: US$...

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Editor’s note Nov 4, 2019

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Editor’s note: A couple of years ago, Andrew and the team were lucky enough to travel to Lord Howe Island to explore the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection and, in the process, enjoy the unbelievable scenery of volcanic spires and fish-filled shallows. While the setting was one of the most remarkable on earth, the focus was … ContinuedThe post Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai sets sail for victory with 3 new Luna Rossa specials Time+Tide
Panerai sets sail Oct 21, 2019

Panerai sets sail for victory with 3 new Luna Rossa specials

Following on from the successful first collaboration between Panerai and the America’s Cup team Luna Rossa, which spawned the Submersible Luna Rossa, the Italian watchmaker has continued the relationship with the 36th America’s Cup challenger to create three completely new watches. Retaining the same fundamental aesthetic as the first iteration - most notably the dial, which … ContinuedThe post Panerai sets sail for victory with 3 new Luna Rossa specials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Entirely Hand-Made Tourbillon Watch SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Oct 14, 2019

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Entirely Hand-Made Tourbillon Watch

The Hand Made 1 is a watch “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, requiring some 6,000 hours, according to Greubel Forsey. That’s equivalent to three years of work, largely performed by a special team of watchmakers assembled by Greubel Forsey specifically for this project, along with independent specialists who produce certain components. Functionally, the Hand Made 1 is a straightforward timepiece – it shows the time, hours, minutes and seconds, and is equipped with a one-tourbillon regulator. The movement is made up of 272 parts, which is within the usual range for such a movement. The complexity of the watch comes from how it is made – by hand or by hand-operated tools – which is why only two to three examples will be produced per year. The genesis for the Hand Made 1 is the department within Greubel Forsey that produces prototypes, which are essentially one-off, hand-made watches. The same production techniques are applied to the Hand Made 1, except that they are taken to a far higher level, in order to create components that are produced with the same techniques as prototypes but to the same fit and finish as standard Greubel Forsey movements. So each screw is made on a manual lathe, and can take up to eight hours to complete. The case components are milled on a pantograph lathe, essentially a manually operated CNC machine that requires the operator to guide the cutting tool to by hand. And even the balance spring is rolled by a manua...

Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Sep 24, 2019

Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue

As Patek Phillippe’s 16-day Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore counts own to its opening this weekend, the watchmaker has revealed a limited edition, hardbound catalogue detailing the exhibition that will be available only at the event. A must-have for any horological library, the commemorative book includes every timepiece that will be on display at the exhibition, which is the largest to date. The tome encompasses a diversity of clocks, pocket and wristwatches spanning four centuries, from the world’s first wristwatch made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary to some of the most complicated watches ever created – including the landmark Caliber 89 – as well as watches currently in production. The catalogue will also include the limited edition watches, clocks and pocket watches produced especially for the Singapore Grand Exhibition. The Calibre 89 Proceeds from the sale of the catalogue will benefit the National Museum of Singapore, the nation’s oldest museum. Funds raised will go towards boosting the museum’s programmes that preserve the arts and cultural heritage of the city state. Patek Philippe is no stranger to supporting the National Museum, as the catalogue donations follow its support of the redevelopment of the museum in 2015, the year of Singapore’s 50th anniversary since independence, with the creation of a unique Dome Clock that was sold at auction to fund renovation of the museum’s trademark glass rotunda. The Farquhar Coll...

Habring² Introduces the Salmon Collection SJX Watches
Casio nally Sep 16, 2019

Habring² Introduces the Salmon Collection

Austrian watchmaker Habring2, highly regarded for its smart, affordable watches, has just revealed the Salmon collection. The new line-up is made up of all of the brand’s key models, but with each watch now offered with a salmon dial. Once found occasionally on vintage watches and now a popular shade for that reason, salmon dials are a novelty for Habring2,  led by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. The brand typically offers its watches in more straightforward shades of silver, blue, black or grey. The salmon colour Habring2 opted for is a strong pink, closer to salmon than copper or pink gold. Here are a few photos of the watches “in the metal” supplied by the Habrings to show how the salmon dials vary in tone depending on the light. The top of the line model is the Perpetual Doppel, recently launched to mark the brand’s 15thanniversary. Its salmon dial is combined with silvered numerals and blued steel hands, the only model in the Salmon collection with heat-blued hands. The range also includes the entry-level, time-only Felix as well as the single-button Chrono-Felix. Both measure only 38.5mm in diameter, and are also the amongst the thinnest watches made by Habring2. And the more complicated models are the Doppel Felix split-seconds chronograph with its “bullhead” pusher layout, and the inventive COS Felix. Short for “crown operated system”, the COS chronograph is activated entirely via the crown, which is turned either forwards o...

INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Sep 15, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark

Tudor has decided to honour its partnership with New Zealand’s All Blacks the only way it knows how … with a limited edition watch, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark. Made to not only pay tribute to the All Blacks’ illustrious history, which dates back to 1884, the Chrono Dark also celebrates the rugby team’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The watches we bought because someone told us to Time+Tide
Aug 8, 2019

The watches we bought because someone told us to

Editor’s note: Last year we did a team whip around and asked ourselves what watches we bought, not for us, but because other people told us we should. We might not like to admit it, but it’s true. So here we go, the watches we’ve bought because of peer pressure.  Humans are, by and large, … ContinuedThe post The watches we bought because someone told us to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The story of the Omega watch in Dunkirk is perfect Sunday reading for watch people Time+Tide
Omega watch Jun 9, 2019

The story of the Omega watch in Dunkirk is perfect Sunday reading for watch people

Editor’s note: In the pantheon of great watch performances on screen, Tom Hardy’s Omega in Dunkirk is up there. When I first saw the movie at an IMAX theatre in Melbourne, I was that idiot taking shots of the screen when it appeared. I had to know the story of the model – was it a vintage … ContinuedThe post The story of the Omega watch in Dunkirk is perfect Sunday reading for watch people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Tudor’s teasers - Cam takes a few guesses Time+Tide
Tudor s teasers – Cam Mar 18, 2019

LIST: Tudor’s teasers - Cam takes a few guesses

In case you were unaware (how is that rock you’ve been living under?), Baselworld 2019 is nearly upon us. So, while the rest of the team are currently en route to Basel, I’ve planted myself firmly behind each one of my digital detective devices and taken off in search of any and all clues as … ContinuedThe post LIST: Tudor’s teasers – Cam takes a few guesses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The hottest Moser watch releases of 2019 Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Mar 4, 2019

VIDEO: The hottest Moser watch releases of 2019

Visiting the team at H. Moser & Cie. is always one of the highlights of SIHH. You never quite know what you’re going to get. Well, that’s not quite true. You know you’re going to be in for some surprises. And seeing Moser at SIHH 2019 did not disappoint. We knew about the Nature Watch, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The hottest Moser watch releases of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: A tale of two Seiko Shippo Enamel watches Time+Tide
Seiko Shippo Enamel watches Feb 17, 2019

HANDS-ON: A tale of two Seiko Shippo Enamel watches

For today’s review of Seiko’s Shippo Enamel watches (SPB073 and SPB075 to be precise), we’re doing something a little different, because, as it happens, two of the T+T team, Sandra and Justin, happen to own one of each. So, over to them on the how, the why and what they’re like on the wrist … … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A tale of two Seiko Shippo Enamel watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: As speculation rises about Idris Elba as Bond, we speculate about 007’s next watch Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: As speculation rises about Idris Elba as Bond, we speculate about 007’s next watch

Editor’s note: Speculation that Big Idris Elba might be the next man to don the Tom Ford tux and strap on the Walther and take over from Daniel Craig as the next Bond has once again reared its head, and honestly this is something we can all get behind (side note, Esquire’s suggestion of Thandie Newton … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: As speculation rises about Idris Elba as Bond, we speculate about 007’s next watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 in black ceramic -  55 years on and still going strong Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 Aug 7, 2018

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 in black ceramic -  55 years on and still going strong

They say your 50s are the new 30s. I’m not sure who ‘they’ are, and why exactly they say that. But just Google “celebrities in their 50s” and you’ll see that maybe they are on to something (Halle Berry and Tom Cruise, amirite?). Well, this year marks 55 years of the TAG Heuer Carrera, and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 in black ceramic – 55 years on and still going strong appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Auction madness - 6 watches you could have bought at the Jerry Lewis estate sale for less than $10k Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2018

LIST: Auction madness - 6 watches you could have bought at the Jerry Lewis estate sale for less than $10k

Famed comedian, actor and director Jerry Lewis, AKA the King of Comedy, died in August 2017 at the age of 91. He left behind the legacy of an incredible career that spanned over 60 years. Known for his slapstick humour, Lewis rose to fame in the ’40s and ’50s as one-half of comedy duo Martin … ContinuedThe post LIST: Auction madness – 6 watches you could have bought at the Jerry Lewis estate sale for less than $10k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Invitation: Rare handcrafts to be showcased at the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva Deployant
Patek Philippe Salons Apr 13, 2018

Invitation: Rare handcrafts to be showcased at the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva

From April 19 to 21, at its Salons on Rue du Rhône, Patek Philippe is showcasing its entire collection of the rare handcrafts timepieces that premiered at Baselworld 2018. It is a one-of-a-kind opportunity to discover all the exceptionally inspiring dome table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches before they continue their journey to private collectionsRead More

IN-DEPTH: The Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph Mar 14, 2018

IN-DEPTH: The Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph

The story in a second: A value-packed chrono from one of the few remaining family-owned watch companies. It wasn’t all doom and gloom during the quartz crisis of the mid ’70s. While brands and manufacturers were disappearing left, right and centre, never to be seen again, others like Raymond Weil were only just starting out, … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The top 9 new women’s watches from SIHH Time+Tide
Mar 13, 2018

VIDEO: The top 9 new women’s watches from SIHH

If I’m completely honest, women’s watches aren’t my speciality, largely because they tend (notable exceptions aside) not to look the greatest on my fairly hairy 21cm wrist. But luckily - and thankfully - Sandra Lane is on the team. So rather than flounder my way through the intricacies of stone-setting and satin straps, I defer … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The top 9 new women’s watches from SIHH appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Hoisting the high spirits flag with the Franck Muller Color Dreams Time+Tide
Franck Muller Color Dreams My art Jan 21, 2018

HANDS-ON: Hoisting the high spirits flag with the Franck Muller Color Dreams

My art deco admiration and monochromer habits have always had me on Team Casablanca considering Franck Muller’s selections. But it is party season after all, so I am easing up on the classic palette and eyeing off a completely different proposition. The Color Dreams collection is a parade of watches with one exuberant mission: to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hoisting the high spirits flag with the Franck Muller Color Dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Exceptionally classic - the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat Time+Tide
Cartier Extra Flat Editor’s note Dec 4, 2017

VIDEO: Exceptionally classic - the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat

Editor’s note: We’re very much on the record as being proud members of team Drive, so it was with real excitement that we had a look at the new models shown off at SIHH at the start of this year. And while the Moon Phases probably has the edge in terms of everyday wearability, when it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exceptionally classic – the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: “We didn’t have it in the museum.” The President of Longines says collector brought GPHG winner to them Time+Tide
Longines says collector brought GPHG Nov 28, 2017

VIDEO: “We didn’t have it in the museum.” The President of Longines says collector brought GPHG winner to them

It’s the kind of story you could easily gloss over, or embellish, as the president of a large watch company. A collector contacts you with a rare piece. You confirm that it’s original, share the images around the business, get feedback from the heritage team that it might be a good piece to reissue, then … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: “We didn’t have it in the museum.” The President of Longines says collector brought GPHG winner to them appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.