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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Insight: What’s Next for the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement? SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement? Jun 27, 2023

Insight: What’s Next for the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement?

In an era of modern and accessible digital technology, the utilitarian role of mechanical timekeepers has inevitably dwindled. Yet, it is still pursued as a luxury of an artform – either of the highest finishing by hand that can’t be performed by machines, or the research and development in making a mechanical timepiece – in particular wristwatches – as accurate as possible.  One of these horological pursuits, to preserve the accuracy of mechanical wristwatches, is the supply of a constant force to the escapement. To isolate the varying torque as a mainspring gradually unwinds, some haute horlogerie watches today incorporate either a fusée-and-chain or a remontoir, which supplies a steady torque to the escapement for stable timekeeping.  However, there is one particularly novel take on constant force released by Girard-Perregaux, in the form of a proprietary escapement. First unveiled as a prototype in SIHH 2008, the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement has a patented, double escape wheel system that is designed from the ground up to inherently have a built-in constant force system, thus eliminating the need of a remontoir or a fusée-and-chain.   Despite being first created 15 years ago, Girard-Perregaux (GP) is still further developing the escapement today, with a new set of patented improvements publicly available – strongly hinting at a revamped model in the near future. These patents make it worth a deep dive into the original Constant Escapement (CE) fr...

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) Time+Tide
Omega celebrates 75 years Jun 27, 2023

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!)

A gradient of 11 new “Summer Blue” configurations for the 75th anniversary of the Seamaster that darken as the depth rating increases Each model has a commemorative caseback with the signature Poseidon, trident, and two seahorses motif The previously discontinued Ploprof returns to the catalogue with a new resized monobloc case There are countless brands … ContinuedThe post Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB

Louis Erard has once again joined forces with Massena LAB for another take on a common complication. Le Chronographe Monopoussoir draws inspiration from 19th century pocket watches and continues with the styling from the first time these two brands collaborated.  Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s brand identity is continually shaped and defined by its many partnerships. Its latest collaboration with Massena LAB continues this creative streak with a relatively classical complication in the form of a mono-pusher chronograph.  Building upon their collaboration from last year, the latest timepiece has kept the distinctive grained dial that is industrially finished but well executed. They have opted for a more restrained design by having just a single register at twelve, deviating from the traditional two- or three-register configuration of most chronographs. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, the watch is very big at 43 mm wide and 15.7 mm thick. The thickness in particular is a lot and the size may turn some people off. The carries a substantial presence on the wrist, arguably too much for a watch of this style. One reason for the size is the movement, which is the same Sellita calibre found in all Louis Erard chronographs, including the Alain Silberstein iteration. For that reason, it also remains in the same price range, with a retail of US$4,950, making it fair value as an interesting yet affordable chronograph. At the same time, this distinguishes itself through the class...

Micromilspec Introduces a Watch Made for Members of the United States Space Force Worn & Wound
Jun 26, 2023

Micromilspec Introduces a Watch Made for Members of the United States Space Force

Micromilspec, a Norwegian microbrand that has carved out a niche making custom watches for first-responder and military clients, has just revealed their latest project, a watch made for members of the newest branch of the United States military. The United States Space Force, founded in 2019 and technically part of the Department of the Air Force, is the smallest U.S. armed service, with just 8,600 members, but watch enthusiasts among the ranks now have the option of owning a timepiece made just for them, and civilians can get in on the action as well.  The U.S. Space Force Watch was made in collaboration with members of the USSF in a manner similar to watches made with other Micromilspec clients, a list that includes Canadian, Norwegian, and French special forces, several units of the Norwegian Army, and the Smoke Divers unit of the Oslo Fire Brigade. According to the brand, watches are designed and developed in Oslo, with manufacturing and assembly completed by the brand’s Swiss partners. For the U.S. Space Force Watch two distinct versions will be made: one that will be sold exclusively to active members, members, and designated personnel of the USSF, and a more widely available civilian version which will require a U.S. shipping address to order.  The watch itself is a spin on the popular integrated bracelet sports watch concept, with a highly angular eight sided case and an integrated H-link bracelet. The case measures 42mm wide and features a dive-style timing be...

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second SJX Watches
Zenith Jun 26, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second

Habring² continues its focus on affordable, interesting complications with the Chrono-Felix Top-Second. Dressed in a retro-military dial, the Top-Second is powered by the brand’s proprietary A11 movement like all Habring² watches. But it features a new (old) complication, the “Top Second”, essentially a running seconds indicator camouflaged within the “9” hour marker. Initial thoughts The Top-Second encapsulates the Habring² specialty of well-priced and interesting watches. It’s a chronograph with a complication that is the only one of its kind in modern-day watchmaking and priced under US$9,000 including 20% Austrian tax. That makes it excellent value – as is typical of Habring² – particularly considering the proprietary movement. Granted, the 1930s-military styling of the watch is fairly generic, though appealing in its functional nature. That said, Habring² is versatile when it comes to design and the brand typically unveils variations of its models so it is likely the Top-Second will return in other guises soon. Honest, affordable, and interesting First introduced in the 1960s by Mondia, a brand soon after acquired by Zenith, the Top Second is a discreet running seconds indicator. A coloured disc spins beneath a small aperture on the dial, showing that the seconds are passing and the movement is running without the need for a constant seconds hand. The Habring² take on the complication operates on the same principles as the Mondia original. A prop...

The New Vero x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition Is A Strap Monster – Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Jun 25, 2023

The New Vero x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition Is A Strap Monster – Windup Watch Shop

Just this week, we released our latest collaboration with Vero, the ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition. Featuring a 44.5mm cylindrical mid-case coated in ceramic coating (Cerakote), we were able to not just use a gorgeous aqua tone that almost perfectly matches the dial, we were able to give a spritz of white. Applied in such a way to create random flecking, no two versions of the VERO x ADPT Workhorse are exactly the same. Like all Workhorses, this piece was made for the outdoors and although it comes on a summer ready white self-closing fabric strap, we put this watch to the strap test by modeling some ADPT nylons on it. We’re happy to report, it is the strap monster we hoped for! Just this week, we released our latest collaboration with Vero, the ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition. Featuring a 44.5mm cylindrical mid-case coated in ceramic coating (Cerakote), we were able to not just use a gorgeous aqua tone that almost perfectly matches the dial, we were able to give a spritz of white. Applied in such a way to create random flecking, no two versions of the VERO x ADPT Workhorse are exactly the same. Like all Workhorses, this piece was made for the outdoors and although it comes on a summer ready white self-closing fabric strap, we put this watch to the strap test by modeling some ADPT nylons on it. We’re happy to report, it is the strap monster we hoped for! The post The New Vero x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition Is A Strap Monster – Windup Watch Shop appeared first ...

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Schwarz Etienne Jun 25, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers a diverse group of new releases. We start at the high end with some new chronographs by Singer Reimagined and then head over to a limited quartet by Elka with some help from Ace Jewelers. Next up was a truly wild creation by Schwarz Etienne that was designed by vaunted designer, Eric Giroud. Last, we celebrate Alpina’s 140th anniversary with a look at their incredibly limited and incredibly cool new square watches powered by a vintage caliber. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical Worn & Wound
Alpina Releases Jun 23, 2023

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical

Alpina is celebrating their 140th anniversary this year, and the brand that refers to themselves as the inventors of the sports watch have released a rather surprising limited edition to celebrate the occasion. Most recent Alpinas are very much in that very specific sport and adventure watch genre, and fit a familiar profile with modern sensibilities and a design language that speaks to their overall ruggedness. The new limited edition is cut from a very different cloth, and communes directly with the brand’s long history through the components of the watch itself. Using recently discovered and expertly restored vintage movements from the Alpina archives, the Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is partially a history lesson, but also an example of a creative way to pay respect to the past.  This one starts with the movement. The Calibre 490 running inside the Heritage Carrée Mechanical was originally produced in 1938. A total of 28 vintage movements were recently uncovered by Alpina, and have been fully restored to function as they were originally intended when they came off the production line 85 years ago. The rectangular movements were not just ordinary, run of the mill calibers for Alpina at the time, but incorporated new features like a crown assembly that was patented to protect against the intrusion of dust into the case, and robust construction that would predict Alpina’s focus on sports watches in the years to come. The manually wound caliber beats...

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s Summer-Ready Promaster Dive Eco-Drive in Two Stunning Colors Worn & Wound
Citizen s Summer-Ready Promaster Dive Jun 23, 2023

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s Summer-Ready Promaster Dive Eco-Drive in Two Stunning Colors

There are few better ways to channel the warm glow of the summer sun on your wrist than with a gold-toned watch case. New in the shop is a pair of gold-toned stainless steel cased Promaster Dive watches from Citizen that could be your next go-to summer watch. Let’s take a closer look at this pair of divers that are just begging to hit the beach, pool, or lake. There are few better ways to channel the warm glow of the summer sun on your wrist than with a gold-toned watch case. New in the shop is a pair of gold-toned stainless steel cased Promaster Dive watches from Citizen that could be your next go-to summer watch. Let’s take a closer look at this pair of divers that are just begging to hit the beach, pool, or lake. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s Summer-Ready Promaster Dive Eco-Drive in Two Stunning Colors appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Highlights from the Sotheby’s Important Watches and Fine Watches June sales results Time+Tide
Jun 23, 2023

Highlights from the Sotheby’s Important Watches and Fine Watches June sales results

Sotheby’s hosted their live Important Watches sale on June 9 and their Fine Watches sale ended on June 15 Two Paul Newman-owned Daytona watches headlined the Important Watches Sale and sold for a combined US$2.2m Between the two auctions, total watch sales of US$21.03m were achieved Earlier this month, two Sotheby’s auctions were held with … ContinuedThe post Highlights from the Sotheby’s Important Watches and Fine Watches June sales results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue Jun 22, 2023

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue

A GMT watch is more of a function than a style, yet I expect your mind goes straight to a red and blue ‘Pepsi’ bezel, or perhaps a red and black ‘Coke’. It’s now 10 years since Rolex first launched the 116710BLNR, so maybe the ‘Batman’ is more your style. Whichever is your favourite, a bi-color bezel is a common sight on a GMT watch. A couple of months back, Bell & Ross added another iteration to their GMT lineup. This one uses the BR 03 outline as its base, and combines it with a sharp blue and gray colorway. The blue isn’t restricted to one half of the bezel only though, which results in a vibrant looking watch. On paper, there’s a lot to like about the BR 03-93 GMT Blue, but how good is it on the wrist? With Bell & Ross’s more typical square cased watches, the dial is relatively simple. Often a black dial, large indices, bold sword hands and plenty of lume. A real utilitarian look. There are some BR 03 models which are altogether more lavish. This is one. The blue dial is bright, with a sunburst finish, and is as vibrant in real life as you’d expect. What’s especially nice to see is that although Bell & Ross’s familiar design language is present in the large numerals at the cardinal points, they are applied indices rising above the dial with superb vertical brushing on the top surfaces. The other indices are also applied, with a generous amount of lume in each. Bell & Ross have taken the familiar, and elevated it into something more elegant. Th...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Second Round of ‘The Collectibles’ at their Beverly Hills Boutique Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jun 22, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Second Round of ‘The Collectibles’ at their Beverly Hills Boutique

Over the last few years, the popularity of vintage watches has had some ups and downs, to say the least. It was only about five or six years ago that vintage was all anyone in our community seemed to be talking about. Rare references from Rolex and Patek were setting auction records, and enthusiasts who got into the hobby before the vintage boom suddenly found themselves with collections of real and surprising value on their hands. Things have calmed down a bit recently, and while I certainly wouldn’t say vintage is over by any means, it’s become a tougher nut to crack. Consumers are, correctly, more concerned with authenticity and originality than they ever have been, which has changed the landscape considerably. Among other things, it’s opened the door for brands to get into the vintage game, making rare references from their back catalogs available to the public with the promise of proper and careful restorations, ensuring the value and history of these watches haven’t been neglected by an inexperienced watchmaker or service center. Jaeger-LeCoultre is perhaps the highest profile brand to enter this market, and they’ve just unveiled their second capsule collection in their ongoing series, The Collectibles.  A pair of Memovoxes from The Collectibles collection Last week, at the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique in Beverly Hills, collectors gathered for the big unveiling of the new eleven piece collection. Spanning periods of the brand’s history from the 1920s to the...

Tissot Introduces the PRX Powermatic 80 35 mm SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 22, 2023

Tissot Introduces the PRX Powermatic 80 35 mm

Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 has quickly gained popularity since its introduction more than three years ago as it offers the popular integrated-bracelet aesthetic at an affordable price point.  In March, the brand added new dial options to the collection, and now it has added more horological power to the smallest model that’s 35 mm in diameter and was previously only available with a quartz movement. Initial thoughts A slightly disappointing aspect of the PRX collection was the fact that the 35 mm model only had a quartz movement, until now. Now anyone who wants a mechanical movement in a more wearable size is catered for.  The overall design of the watch, including its waffle-pattern dial and brushed steel case, remains largely unchanged – a good thing since it is precisely these elements that first captured people’s attention in the first place. The green version stands out as a personal favourite among the new models and I expect it will be a strong seller overall given the popularity of the colour now. Starting at US$695 and going up to US$750 for the mother-of-pearl dial, the new 35 mm models are slightly pricier than the original. While the increase in price is perhaps linked to inflation, compared to many of the other integrated bracelet sports watches on the market, it still offers great value for the overall feel it gives. Now at 35 mm The latest version of the PRX collection introduces a remarkable decrease in size when compared to the original model whi...

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 21, 2023

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm

Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original.   Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...

Hands-On: the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Jun 20, 2023

Hands-On: the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300

A good friend of mine leans heavily toward the category of pilot watches. He’s not a pilot, but he likes the way pilot watches look, how legible they are, and the rich history that propelled them to occupy an important role in Swiss brands’ catalogs. I lean heavily towards the genre of dive watches, and although I’m not a professional diver, I do occasionally explore the world below the surface. I have been drawn to dive watches because of their inherent robustness and versatility, as well because I have a particular affinity for any large body of water. This means, in other words, that I mostly wear dive watches and that I’m always on the lookout for the next one to add to my collection.  At the risk of bragging a little, I’ve gotten my hands on many Christopher Ward models in the past three years. But for some strange reason, I’ve never looked at a Trident in the metal. This is odd because it is the collection that the British brand is perhaps the most known for. And this might be due to the fact that, over the past few years, Christopher Ward has revamped the Trident collection multiple times, updating the designs, improving upon the case profile and dimensions, and continuously bettering the finish. Or, in Christopher Ward terms, giving us better bangs for our bucks. So today is a special day as I got to spend some time with the 38mm C60 Trident Pro 300.  An Enthusiast Driven Design  We watch enthusiasts are not only enthusiasts about horology but we som...

From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen Worn & Wound
Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One Jun 20, 2023

From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen

A watch, like any designed object, is the product of a series of decisions, and those decisions can define it. At some point, whoever is making the thing has to determine what type of watch it’s going to be, what sort of movement it will have, the size, the style of handset and indices, the dial colors, and so forth. The most successful watches, in my opinion, are those made by people who have come to tough but deliberate decisions. We’ve all seen watches that feel like they are just too much in one way or another, and they never tend to work. The new Geometry by Schwarz Etienne is literally the watch equivalent of a fully loaded luxury car: when it comes to dial finishes, it has every option. But instead of being too much, it works in a sort of psychedelic way. Whatever you think of it, I think it’s hard to argue that it’s the product of some serious decision making.  The Geometry comes to us via designer Eric Giroud, who has previously worked with brands as diverse as Louis Erard, MB&F;, Mido, and many more. The dial is divided into four distinct quadrants, each incorporating different dial finishes and patterns. You can imagine any one of the single quadrants made as an entire dial, and the watch would probably look great. But broken into pieces, you get a sense of how these different patterns and finishes work with and against one another. The fact that it’s somewhat jarring to look at at first is a reminder of the difficulty of watch design in the first plac...

IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Time+Tide
IWC Jun 20, 2023

IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun

Many manufacturers have delved into the recent trend of brightly coloured dials fitted to slightly dressier, but still everyday-friendly watches. It’s fairly rare, however, that this colourful element continued into the cases, and this is where IWC’s ceramic-cased Pilot’s Watch line-up comes in. It’s no secret that their Pantone-tinged Woodland Green, white Lake Tahoe, and … ContinuedThe post IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Jun 19, 2023

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry

While historically a movement and components supplier, Schwarz Etienne has produced timepieces under its own name for some years now. Some of its watches feature original designs with a touch of traditional watchmaking, an example being the recent collaboration with independent watchmaker Voutilainen.  Now, it is continuing the collaborative design approach in its latest release, the Geometry. Unveiled as a limited edition in two colourways, this collection showcases a dial penned by Eric Giroud, the designer best known for his work for contemporary brands like MB&F;. Described as “deconstructed”, his dial design takes inspiration from the branch of mathematics that’s all about precise alignment and arrangement of lines to form shapes. Initial thoughts In recent years, a growing number of watch brands, including Louis Erard and Bulgari, have embraced geometric dial designs to produce some standouts in their collections. As evident in its latest creation, Schwarz Etienne also aligns with this trend. What sets the Geometry apart is the combination of traditional decoration with modernist style in its contrasting utilisation of fluted lines and clous de Paris patterns. Between the two iterations, the silver dial is particularly captivating. The subtle contrast between the textures and colours are simultaneously cohesive and balanced, creating something pleasing and elegant out of what could be a very busy dial. With a price tag of US$23,490, the Geometry is expensive i...

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor Black Bay GMT WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT Jun 19, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor Black Bay GMT

The Tudor Black Bay GMT was a hit when released in 2018 giving people a much more affordable alternative to it’s older and wiser cousin, the Rolex GMT BLRO, otherwise known as “The Pepsi”. And being more attainable and a great value proposition, I decided it was time to add a GMT to the collection. Why I Bought It I had never owned a GMTGreat Rolex alternativeClassic styled GMT & similar to my Black Bay The Ownership Reality Wears larger than a 41mm watch due to it’s 14mm thickness and slab sidesNo micro adjust or extendable links for on the fly adjustment Aluminium bezel insert more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 8.5 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 A few months ago, Tudor released a new variant of the Tudor Black Bay GMT with a white dial, which you can read about here, but personally, I didn’t love the white dial on this watch. The black dial “Pepsi” configuration, The OG looks better in my opinion, which made me think why, and then made me think – maybe I should write about it in this next Owners Perspective article. The original and the best – Tudor Black Bay GMT Having never owned a GMT, and les face it, over 2020 and 2021, I’ve not needed one as I’ve not really gone anywhere thanks to COVID. But with the world opening up again early last year, and with a few family holidays planned combined with an itch for a new watch, I decided to take the plunge and get a Tudor Black Bay GMT. W...

Naissance d’une Montre 2: A Handmade Future Built on the Foundations of the Past by Oscillon, Greubel Forsey and Urwerk Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Jun 18, 2023

Naissance d’une Montre 2: A Handmade Future Built on the Foundations of the Past by Oscillon, Greubel Forsey and Urwerk

The Oscillon duo of Buser and Devanthey have created the second release of Naissance d’une Montre with the Naissance d’une Montre 2. Using Oscillon’s own L’instant de vérité caliber as a base, one already designed to be made entirely by hand, the Naissance d’une Montre 2 brings the glory of the past to something that would make sense in any futuristic setting.