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Time+Tide
Franck Muller and Japanese streetwear brand #FR2 add some summer colour to their second fun-filled collaboration.The post Franck Muller joins forces with #FR2 for another cheeky collab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Welcome to another installment of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared hobby. This time, we’ll take a look at five of the best practices for watch ownership. This is how to treat your watches and the hobby itself to maximize joy and minimize stress. As always, this might all […] Visit Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Brimming with 1970s style, this retro-inspired dive watch from Mido oozes charm and offers great specs.The post Mido goes retro with the adventurous, vintage-inspired Ocean Star Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
There are two kinds of tool watches out there. There are the tool watches we typically think of: sporty, rugged types, often divers or field watches, that can take a beating. And then there is the other type of tool watches, which are simply watches that resemble tools. No, not in the human sense, but rather technical items like gauges and other instruments. Germany’s LÖBNER’s current watches firmly fit in the latter category, though they are not unwelcome in the former. Founded in 1862, LÖBNER specialized in precision timing equipment, such as stopwatches that could time to 1/100th of a second, as well as military chronoscopes that went all the way to 1/1000th of a second. They were a timekeeper at the Olympic Games, and worked closely with motorsports. The brand ceased operation in 1944 and was revived in 2023 with the launch of both three-hand and chronograph models. Designed by Emmanuel Dietrich, also of the eponymous brand Dietrich, for its relaunch, LÖBNER set out to create luxury timepieces that speak to this heritage while pursuing a distinct personality through a strict design language and novel functionality. The resulting models, a three-hander with an internal bezel called Sledge and a chronograph called Steelracer, feature angular integrated bracelet designs and dials with a graphic sensibility. LÖBNER was kind enough to send both over to check out, though for the sake of brevity, this review focuses on the Steelracer chronograph. Featuring an integrat...
Worn & Wound
Of all the artisanal specialities in watchmaking, case engraving has to be among the most obscure and unheralded. I think there are a few reasons for this. One, the dial is where the action is on most watches, and applying a time consuming artistic craft on the case might be seen by some watchmakers as a waste of valuable time. Another factor is that to a large extent, we’ve all been trained to appreciate a particular type of case finishing. We see crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and that registers as being of a certain level of quality that we expect in a luxury watch. If those elements aren’t there, even if they’re substituted by something that might be visually striking, our reptile brains feel like there’s something missing. The latest in Louis Erard’s ongoing Métiers d’Art series, however, is a good opportunity to appreciate complex case engraving in a new way. The whole idea behind how Louis Erard approaches Métiers d’Art, and to a certain extent the brand’s focus more generally, is to make craft accessible. The new Gravée Main is perhaps their most ambitious attempt in this area to date. Virtually every steel surface (the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle) is hand engraved. According to the brand, each watch takes upwards of 50 hours to engrave by hand, and only 99 will be made. Engraving is one of those things that really comes alive when you look at it closely and imagine that painstaking work that went into creat...
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Teddy Baldassarre
For many watch collectors, acquiring one's first tourbillon watch is a Holy Grail, a rite of passage into the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. If you're new to the watch appreciation game, however, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about. What is so special about tourbillon watches, anyway, and what makes them so desirable to so many while still being so prohibitively expensive for most? The short answer is that a tourbillon is, in this day and age, less of a necessity and more of a badge of historical high-watchmaking excellence. For a more detailed explanation, read on. The First Tourbillons and Early Innovations The inventor of the tourbillon is a name that is likely familiar to watch connoisseurs. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), a native of Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris, was one of horology’s most significant historical figures, among whose many innovations was the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the so-called tourbillon escapement. While the tourbillon is today considered by many to be a complication, like a chronograph or calendar mechanism, its original purpose was a fully practical one, to compensate for the ill effects of gravity on the movement of a pocket watch and thus improve its long-term accuracy. Remember, in Breguet’s time, watches were not worn on wrists, where ...
Monochrome
Paulin Watches, founded in 2013 by three sisters and now part of anOrdain, has built its reputation on a bold, design-driven approach to watchmaking, characterised by distinctive typography and an original use of form and colour. With the Mara, the Glasgow-based brand takes a step into the world of professional watches, reimagining the diver through […]
Deployant
Ba111od releases their next new collection, now designated as Chapter 8 with a set of seven new automatic models. 4 three hand and 3 moonphase watches.
Fratello
Have you ever wanted to know what it’s like to enter the space where watches are made? These very real places remain an abstract thought to most people, as passionate as they may be about the time-telling objects on their wrists. You can read about them, see images and video, and hear all about them, […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Experience of Visiting A Swiss Watch Manufacture to read the full article.
Monochrome
When it comes to watches for men made by Bulgari, it seems the multiple-time record-breaking Octo Finissimo range gets all the attention… Rightfully so, you’ll admit, as this collection is as spectacular visually as it is technically. Bold, ultra-thin, highly distinctive in its approach to design and materials and undeniably Italian, it is the brand’s […]
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Worn & Wound
We live in a golden age of watch knowledge. Never before have so many people known so much about watches, or cared about them so deeply, and it’s genuinely remarkable. Have a specific question about a rare Rolex from 40 or 50 years ago? The answer is probably just a Google search away. Need to check that the watch you’re looking to buy was made in exactly the spec you’re seeing on eBay? There’s almost certainly a forum post somewhere breaking it down for you - no subject is too esoteric, no prompt too singular. There’s enough watch knowledge out there to fill a lifetime, and probably more, if you go looking for it. Then there’s the other… stuff. Open up Instagram and you’ll immediately be inundated by accounts professing to represent ‘watch experts’ peddling surface-level observations as hard-earned insights. Start to absorb enough of this, and it’s easy to convince yourself you should count among them, that you’ve done the real work required to achieve expertise. It’s a trap, and an easy one to fall into at that. Because unless someone in your life brought you into this world, you’re probably the foremost watch expert in your life. You’re almost certainly the one your friends and family come to when (cough, cough… if) they have questions about watches. Just being able to tell the difference between a quartz and a mechanical watch probably puts you in the top quartile of watch knowledge. And if you’re reading articles like this on sites ...
Fratello
Orient marks its 75th anniversary with a new line in the Contemporary Collection - the Orient Stretto. The series launches with six models, split between three limited editions and three regular-production watches. The commemorative trio highlights the milestone with anniversary logos and engravings, while the standard trio secures the Stretto’s place in the permanent collection. […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Stretto 75th Anniversary Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Micromilspec may be new to some enthusiasts, but in professional circles, the Oslo-based brand is already trusted. Founded by Henrik Rye with designer Anders Drage and a serving Norwegian Army member, the company built its reputation on custom watches co-designed with military units worldwide. From naval squadrons to combat battalions, even Norway’s King’s Guard, over […]
Time+Tide
A purple CVD case, skeletonised dial and UV-reactive strap make this 30-piece limited edition chrono pretty hard to miss.The post Chronoswiss celebrates the 30th anniversary of their Opus chronograph with a wild Purple Rain limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The internet and social media have transformed how we discover and interact with watches. In a sense, these channels have put the entire watch world in our pocket. They have democratized the hobby in several ways, spreading information and knowledge like never before and creating transparency across markets. This all comes at a cost, though. […] Visit The Feedback Loop: Does Social Media Create A Monoculture In The Watch World? to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
The British brand Apiar has an intriguing slogan emblazoned across the front page of their website: Impossible Watches. Made Possible. If you spend enough time thinking about watches, collecting watches, and learning about watches, you begin to realize their limitations. Whether they’re chronometry related or have to do with the design and build of the watch itself, there are certain things that just can’t be done, or else stretch the limits of our current technology to the point where those things aren’t remotely feasible. The crazy idea you had for a watch case that defies the laws of physics might be something that only exists on paper. Additive manufacturing and 3D printing technologies have the potential to change that. When a metal object is formed by adding material to it rather than stripping it away, a manufacturer can create shapes, textures, and structures that would be impossible otherwise. Apiar’s Gen1.0 is a thrilling example of the possibilities of 3D printing in watch manufacturing. They’re by no means the first to create watches this way, of course, but they’re part of a new class of brands using the technology in an experimental way that seems to finally make the most of it, creating not just beautiful objects that defy watchmaking convention, but watches that redefine our expectations around durability, lightness, and other metrics by which all of us evaluate these things. Importantly, the use of additive manufacturing also democratizes wat...
Time+Tide
The young British brand enters the integrated sports watch market with its distinctive style and flair, with four dial options.The post Farer enters the integrated bracelet game with 4 elegant options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
As the only vertically integrated manufacture in the United States producing components, movements and guilloché dials, RGM is already an anomaly on the American watch scene. Founded by master watchmaker Roland G. Murphy in 1992 in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania, Murphy’s interest in early 20th-century American watchmaking history is reflected in the brand’s railroad watches. The […]
Fratello
What I love about Farer is that you recognize their watches instantly. Over time, the English brand has developed a collection with a very distinct style. The dial colors, the font types, and the colorful overall presence of the watches have gained Farer many fans. The latest addition to the line-up is the new Integra […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
If you’ve been in the watch game for long enough, there is a better-than-zero chance that you’ve owned, had someone recommend for you to own, or have at least come across the Seiko SKX series. The Seiko SKX (notably the black SKX007 and Pepsi-style SKX 009) once served as the go-to value proposition in all of watches. You can still find them trading on the open market for upwards of $500, but there was a time where one could be had easily for $150-$200. A 42mm, ISO-certified, bona-fide dive watch, the SKX represents the last vestige of a true tool watch that predates hype and everything that comes with it. I own one, and continue to wear it, scratch it and bang it around fearlessly. Seiko filled the dive-adjacent void once filled by the SKX, now discontinued, with a series of Seiko 5 models in all manner of colors that resemble the SKX but never quite took the idea across the finish line. And that’s because the SKX was a cult classic for a reason. It married function and form (except for accuracy, but that’s hardly why you buy a sub-$300 diver) in a way that we only hear about in tales from our “elders” who used to buy Rolex Submariners and GMT-Masters for $150 five decades ago. It’s been a number of years now since the SKX has been a production model in the broader Seiko lineup. But just two summers ago, the venerable, vertically integrated, Japanese juggernaut of a brand unveiled something new in the Seiko 5 range – a travel-ready, SKX-looking release ...
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SJX Watches
Now into the second half of its second century, Piaget unveiled the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, an eccentric entrant in the crowded field of luxury sport watches. The charm of the watch lies in its unusual feature set: an extravagant dial and easy wearing format, which includes interchangeable rubber and leather straps. Housed in a sleek, 44 mm titanium case, the Polo Flying Tourbillon is the most complicated watch in the Polo collection since the underrated Polo Tourbillon Relatif introduced two decades ago. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for watches like the Polo Flying Tourbillon that don’t fit neatly into any pre-conceived category. It’s risky to make watches like this; watches that look a bit odd on the spec sheet but feel good on the wrist. On one hand, it’s overtly sporty with a titanium case, a rubber strap, and a robust 100 m water resistance rating thanks to dual gaskets in the crown. Looked at from another perspective, it’s a piece of true industrial-haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon and a thoughtfully executed pointer-style moonphase indicator, sans date. This last detail stands out to me, because the date and moonphase complications usually go hand-in-hand. To be clear, I don’t miss the date; its absence contributes to the care-free nature of the watch. The 44 mm titanium case looks large on paper, and indeed, the diameter is accentuated by its 9.8 mm case height, which is on the thinner side as such things go. But the Polo wears w...
Worn & Wound
There was a period of time in 2020 and 2021 when it felt like you couldn’t have a conversation with someone without hearing about cryptocurrency, the blockchain, or the metaverse. I mean, Facebook literally changed the name of the company to reflect what all signs pointed to being the future of the internet. Of course, watch brands got involved as well, with a variety of projects that sought to integrate watches (physical objects) with the digital world. I actually purchased a watch during that time period that, unbeknownst to me when I handed over the credit card, came with an NFT. The watch is gone, but somewhere on the blockchain, I guess, is an NFT tied to my watch and my watch alone. Thankfully, in my opinion, metaverse mania has slowed a bit in the watch world. It’s been a while since I saw a press release that really touted any sort of blockchain specific features. But last week, some news from G-SHOCK caught my eye. It’s not a new watch release, but rather the implementation of a new virtual G-SHOCK themed world in the metaverse, produced in partnership with The Sandbox. The Sandbox. I’ve learned, is a blockchain-based open world game that launched in November 2021. The Virtual G-SHOCK in The Sandbox project is effectively a G-SHOCK themed Sandbox experience, where you can purchase an avatar to play as based on classic G-SHOCK watch designs, play games that take you through G-SHOCK history. According to the brand, the gameplay involves “shock resistan...
Time+Tide
Black Tahitian MOP graced the Toledano & Chan B/1.2 - and now Selten leverages its allure.The post Watch Ho & Co. team up with Selten to offer an engraved Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial for just under US$1,100 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Odysseus disembarked at A. Lange & Söhne in 2019, making a big splash as the brand’s first serially produced stainless steel luxury sports watch with an “integrated” steel bracelet and 120m water-resistance. Thanks to its unique personality and unmistakable provenance, the Odysseus rowed against many stylistic conventions established by top-tier luxury sports watches. During […]
Monochrome
Unimatic is a relatively young yet popular Milan-based independent watchmaker with a loyal following. Thanks to its minimalist, military-inspired dive watches, the brand has attracted international attention through its own collections and various collaborations, most notably with Massena Lab, where archival design cues met Unimatic’s modern, utilitarian aesthetic. These projects have cemented Unimatic’s reputation as […]
Video
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