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Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists for Independent Watchmaking Award SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists Sep 19, 2023

Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists for Independent Watchmaking Award

The 20 semi-finalists of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives have been announced. An initiative started by the French luxury giant, the prize aims to reward the best independent watchmaking by supporting the winner through a grant and mentorship.  The semi-finalists represent the full range of talent from across the industry and world, with established names such as Strehler and Sarpaneva alongside relative newcomers such as Yosuke Sekiguchi. There is also a range of abilities in this list, from those who are making almost a complete watch under one roof, to those who conceive and then bring together craftspeople to execute. It is reassuring to see such a wide variety in styles and approaches being represented here. Selecting just five to move on to the finals will certainly not be an easy task for the panel of judges. The 20 semi-finalists are:  Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler Tourbillon Grand Sport – Auffret Paris Project One – Barrelhand Ultralight 11G – Behrens Tourbillon Classique, Souscription Édition – Deprez Horloger Homage to Harrison One – Felipe Pikullik Part Time – Itay Noy L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Arkhea – Khemea KS 05 Titanium Blue Aventurine – Kross Studio Persée Nuit – Maison Alcée Roots – Narbel & Co Black Hole Tourbillon – Ondřej Berkus Fundamentum – Oscillon RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Pagès Chronographe Rattrapante – Petermann Bédat 119C – Sarauer Horolog...

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Urwerk Conceives a Sci-Fi Tower Clock for Charity SJX Watches
Urwerk Conceives Sep 19, 2023

Urwerk Conceives a Sci-Fi Tower Clock for Charity

With a towering height of 1.62 m and hefty weight of 40 kg, the one-of-a-kind Space-Time Blade created for Only Watch 2023 undeniably embodies the quintessential Urwerk style in both form and concept. The Space-Time Blade is the only sci-fi, retro-electronic clock in an auction dominated by mechanical wristwatches, proving that Urwerk always does things its own way. Even then the Space-Time Blade is hardly a clock in the conventional sense. It eschews minute and hour hands, and even the outline of a conventional standing clock. Instead it illustrates Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei’s fascination with the captivating and vintage technology of Nixie tubes. It will be sold by Christie’s during Only Watch, the charitable auction held every other year to raise funds for research into a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Initial thoughts It’s easy to see this in the corner of a Brutalist home, alongside other examples of interpretive modern art, but that is not what makes this piece interesting from a construction or technical standpoint. Instead it is the Nixie tubes and their display, along with the multiple timekeeping functions that provided reason for pause. The many and varied ways in which this piece can measure and display time speak to the heart of Urwerk’s philosophy. Known for polarising pieces that push the line between timekeeper and sculpture, Urwerk has created its most abstract timepiece to date with its singular take on the standing ...

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Seiko Adds New Enamel and Urushi Lacquer Dials to their Presage Craftsmanship Series Worn & Wound
Seiko Adds New Enamel Sep 18, 2023

Seiko Adds New Enamel and Urushi Lacquer Dials to their Presage Craftsmanship Series

Seiko has been bringing the heat (quite literally) with sophisticated and labor-intensive dials to its mid-level lines like Presage. Last week we saw a slew of releases celebrating the 110th anniversary of the Laurel, Seiko’s first watch. The headliner was the Presage SPB401 and its enamel dial. Today we see enamel and lacquer make their way to the Presage collection in the form of three new references. The changes don’t stop there, though; there’s more to these watches than new dials. In a break from the current porcelain dials in the Craftsmanship Series, the new SPB403 features a white enamel dial courtesy of Mitsuru Yokasawa and Co. The dial layout on these references has been simplified with thin stick hour markers (as opposed to thin roman numerals). This results in a more versatile watch and allows the color and material to take center stage. In a nice touch, the chapter ring is further subdivided into sixths, corresponding to the movement’s 3Hz beat rate. Of the three, the SPB403 is the most classic-looking and comes on a five link bracelet with Seiko’s super-hard coating. The SPB405 (black dial) and SPB407 (green dial) incorporate the ancient art of lacquering into the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series. Made from the sap of the Urushi tree (Rhus verniciflua, found primarily in China and Japan), Japanese lacquer is notoriously expensive and highly prized. Master Usshu Tamura and his team at Seiko have developed a method that, unlike enamel, allows the la...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jaeger-LeCoultre rel... Sep 17, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre released their latest Polaris Chronograph a couple of weeks ago, and we had the first look, and quite frankly it’s stunning. Now we’ve gone hands on to review the blue dial variant! What We Love Super comfortable on the wristBeautiful textured lacquered dialLegibility and lume both day and night What We Don’t Clasp is a little fiddly with no push buttonNon-screw down crown makes me nervous on WRMovement isn’t as finished as you would expect Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 The Polaris is a quiet hit for Jaeger-LeCoultre in my opinion, and the new Chronograph released at the start of September was a nice surprise to most. We were lucky enough to get our hands on it before it’s release, and you can read the details on it here. However, being able to wear it around for a week for review really gives you a sense of how this watch really wears and looks on the wrist. In short, the blue dial pops, but recently, we also compared it to the grey dial variant, call it curiosity to see which is better – my initial thoughts are… it’s a very hard choice! The new Polaris Chronograph in Blue and grey dials The Design Let me say this first. The JLC Polaris Chronograph needs to be seen and felt in person. Photo’s really don’t do it justice, especially the texturing and gradient through the centre and main part of the dial. Both the blue and grey variants differ in this aspect, and whilst we’...

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Camera from Fujifilm, an Exciting Navy SEALs Collection from Panerai, and Jann Wenner Looks Back on Rolling Stone and the Baby Boomers Worn & Wound
Panerai Sep 16, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Camera from Fujifilm, an Exciting Navy SEALs Collection from Panerai, and Jann Wenner Looks Back on Rolling Stone and the Baby Boomers

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Panerai. Check out the new Panerai Navy SEALs collection below. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com DP Review Dives into an Exciting new Fujifilm Camera  Photo courtesy DP Review The latest from Fujifilm is generating a lot of conversation among photographers and videographers alike for its slick design and impressive feature set. The just announced GFX 100 II is a medium format camera that features loads of new tech, like an AI based autofocus system that quickly recognizes potential subjects, and a 102 MP BSI CMOS 44x33mm medium format sensor. Best of all, this camera shares a body style with the much loved GFX 100S, prized for its easy to handle small size, but with many of the technical features of the original GFX 100. DP Review has a detailed breakdown of the new camera right here, which seems to offer a ton of value even at the high asking price of $7,500. Panerai Launches an All New, Wide Ranging Navy SEALs Collection For the first time ever, a new collection of Panerais made in partnership with the Navy SEALs will be available internationally, with a sele...

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Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Accutron Sep 15, 2023

Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide

Accutron watches have been around since the 1960s, and yet the brand has become one of the freshest faces in the watch industry in the 2020s, anchored by its combination of uniquely innovative movement technology and a defiantly retro design language. When one considers how ahead of its time the original Accutron watches were - back when they were still called Bulova Accutron, part of that company's sprawling portfolio - their success in the 21st Century under a newly independent Accutron brand should surprise no one. Read on to familiarize yourself with Accutron and its pioneering role in watchmaking, from its early days to its most recent releases on the market now. Made in America: Bulova History The history of the Accutron brand begins with the Bulova Watch Company, founded by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova (above) in New York City in 1875. One of the most important historical watch brands with roots in the United States, the company is today part of the Japanese Citizen Group and can look back upon a history littered with milestones: the first full line of ladies’ watches, the first television commercial, some of the earliest wristwatches produced for American troops during World War II, and one of the earliest celebrity watch endorsements - by none other than legendary aviation pioneer Charles Lindbergh, for its Lone Eagle watch - to name just a few. Throughout this history, Bulova had developed a well-earned reputation for innovating and for adapting ...

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You’re Invited to the Launch of the Next Zodiac x Worn & Wound Collab Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Sep 15, 2023

You’re Invited to the Launch of the Next Zodiac x Worn & Wound Collab

In 2021 Zodiac and Worn & Wound teamed up to create a collaborative watch inspired by outdoor gear and 90s design sensibilities. It earned the nickname “Saved by The Bell” and became a cult hit, because of its fun colors and throwback packaging. Now, for 2023, Zodiac and Worn & Wound have teamed up once again to create yet another nostalgia-fueled collaboration launching 9.28.23 at 12pm Eastern. Join us for an evening of lasers, lights, and lume all in celebration of the era back when bangs were big, spandex was in, and a little bit of pizza grease on your trigger finger only made you a better shot. The battle begins Thursday 9.28.23 in Brooklyn at 7PM. Click here to register for your chance to join us for a launch party you’ll never forget!   The post You’re Invited to the Launch of the Next Zodiac x Worn & Wound Collab appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black

Tudor expands their FXD family today with a new regular production reference that features a black dial and bezel. The watch follows the same formula as the Marine Nationale FXD that was released in late 2021, a flat 12.7mm thick, 42mm titanium case with a fixed lug design. There are a few changes here worth noting, however, and this might just be the most approachable FXD to date. While there is no official affiliation with this watch, the latest FXD was released alongside a display of the brand’s rich history in issued watches, right next to the original Sealab I at the Man In The Sea museum in Panama City Florida.  The setting is a fitting reminder of the remarkable Sealab program, and an era when watches like this were used as indispensable tools, the same as a compass or knife. This the spirit of the FXD and even the broader Pelagos collection as a whole, and as such we’ll be putting the new watch through its paces on a dive in the Gulf of Mexico, keep an eye out for the full report from the experience coming soon. The black FXD welcomes the same bit of red text at the bottom of the dial that we saw in the Pelagos 39 released last year. It provides the same benefit here, serving to reduce the visual weight of the 4 lines of text at the bottom of the dial. The matte black dial is joined by a matte black bezel insert (no sunburst pattern here), and the bezel is the biggest departure from the original FXD. Rather than counting down, and bi-directional (features done...

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[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Some of our Favorite Microbrands Worn & Wound
Brew Sep 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Some of our Favorite Microbrands

In this edition of Inside the Collection, Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan are focusing on microbrands. Or small independents. Or micro-indies. This flavor of watch brand goes by many names, but the thing that binds them all together is a sense of independence and real personality in the design. These watches are the singular visions of the brand founders, and to have access to that kind of creativity at the price points of the watches on the table in this video, well, that’s pretty special.    Perhaps unsurprisingly, there’s some overlap in the microbrand watches Zach and Blake chose to talk about. Both selected watches made by Brew and Lorier, two Windup Watch Fair mainstays who have been part of the community for years. Zach’s Retromatic and Blake’s Metric are great examples of brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s design sensibility, with compact, easy to wear square cases and funky, just slightly off-kilter dial designs. The Gemini and Hydra, both from Lorier, are likewise great examples of the charming, vintage inspired vibes the NYC based brand is so skilled at cultivating.  Rounding out this selection of micros are Blake’s pair of Autodromo Group B “Night Stage” editions, and Zach’s anOrdain Model 1, which is a limited edition version made in collaboration with the Windup Watch Shop. Like all of the watches seen here, these are special not just because the watches are great, but because of the talented people behind them, who pour everything they have i...

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Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO SJX Watches
Rolex buying Bucherer Sep 14, 2023

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO

Very few will have missed the news of Rolex buying Bucherer, and all of the reactions to it. Given the big change this poses to the world of watch retail, when we were recently given the chance to speak with Wilhelm Schmid, chief executive of A. Lange & Söhne, we thought it the perfect opportunity to get his insight on the current retail landscape.  We sat down with the seasoned leader – now the longest-serving brand boss in Richemont – at this year’s Concours of Elegance, the classic car show at Hampton Court Palace, surrounded by the sounds of vintage V8s revving in the distance. Now that the world has exited the pandemic for good, the way we shop seems to be going back to normal and the shifts that brands made during those turbulent years are either being undone or slowly wound down in the hope that customers are willing to go back to the old ways of doing things and getting out to physical stores. Mr Schmid is certainly of the mindset that a face-to-face connection is the only way to sell one of their watches, as we discovered in our discussion below.  Not only did we talk about how the German brand plans to change their retail strategy moving forward, we also queried him on the Bucherer takeover and how Lange is adapting the to rising tide of brands developing certified pre-owned (CPO) offerings.  The following interview has been edited for clarity and length.  Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 RPS: Perhaps...

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TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Night Driver, a Moody, Fully Lumed Interpretation of the Classic Monaco Aesthetic Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s “Godzilla” anniversary piece Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Night Driver, a Moody, Fully Lumed Interpretation of the Classic Monaco Aesthetic

I have a friend in the local watch collecting community – let’s call him “Eric,” because that’s his name – and in the ongoing group chat between us and a handful of (sometimes) like-minded watch enthusiasts, a concept has emerged that we like to refer to as the “Eric Watch.” Eric has a very particular taste. He likes big watches, lots of lume, and is almost always drawn to the unusual. His collection, if you grouped all the watches he’s over owned together in a lineup, would be a real Island of Misfit Toys scenario. Watches go in and out of his collection at a rapid clip (instead of saying “congrats” when he posts a new acquisition, we like to say “good luck with sale”) but at various times he’s owned at least four different quartz Speedmasters, the Mario Kart Carrera, a black coated Cartier Santos, and a whole bunch of Breitlings made from materials ranging from “Breitlight” to gold. His ultimate grail watch is Grand Seiko’s “Godzilla” anniversary piece. You get the idea.  When I saw the press release for the new Monaco Night Driver from TAG Heuer, I thought to myself, “This might be the ultimate Eric Watch,” and in fact wondered if it was designed by an artificial intelligence that had somehow downloaded his consciousness. First of all, it’s a Monaco. I’ve lost count of the number of Monaco pics he’s sent to the group chat over the years – let’s just stipulate that he’s a fan. Also, the titanium case is coated in bla...

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TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver

Following its recent run of strikingly modern iterations of the classic Monaco, like the Skeleton Dial and the one-of-a-kind Only Watch split-seconds chronograph, TAG Heuer debuts the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Limited Edition alongside the side of the 2023 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Dressed in shades of grey during the day, the Night Driver transforms into something else altogether at night. It retains the outlines of the vintage original in terms of design, but the Night Driver gets a luminescent chapter ring and sub-dials for nighttime legibility – a nod to the Singapore Grand Prix’s status as the first-ever Formula 1 night race. Initial thoughts After the recent Monaco models that were very contemporary, the more traditional looks of the Night Driver are a positive development. And even then the Night Driver incorporates an intriguing twist, making it more than just a vintage-ish watch. The Night Driver has a dial that uses Super-Luminova as a key element of the design, bringing to mind the Monza Flyback Chronometer. But here the lume is even more generously applied than on the Monza.  Moreover, the grey tones of anthracite, grey opaline, and case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), complement the lume well, creating a vintage feel that evokes faded “ghost” dials while still being a modern watch. Like other titanium Monaco models, the Night Driver is light in hand and on the wrist, despite the relatively large case. The thickness of the case, a cons...

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How chronometers went from ships to wrists Time+Tide
Sep 14, 2023

How chronometers went from ships to wrists

As soon as John Harrison realised that a pocket watch could be made to be just as accurate as his 60cm-tall chronometer sea clocks, the road to wristwatch chronometry had begun. Most watch enthusiasts are familiar with how wristwatches became popular after WWI, thanks to the convenience of keeping your hands free while soldiering. It … ContinuedThe post How chronometers went from ships to wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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