Deployant
Review: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One, a technical masterpiece
Technical review of the Cleguer Horology Inspiration One. Explore Mathieu Cleguer’s proprietary Innate Escapement, movement finishing, and pricing.
Results for Equation of Time
34,939 articles · 155 videos found · page 568 of 1170
Deployant
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Seiko 5 Sports MOTOCOMPO Limited Edition
I’m sure you’ve heard the saying that children are either car kids or dinosaur kids. Personally, I was firmly in the latter category. But the older I get, the more I realize how much I’ve missed out on. Now, I’m not saying I’m interested in those flashy muscle cars (I haven’t hit my midlife crisis yet); instead, I’m interested in vehicles that look like toy cars, the miniaturized version of toys I would have played with as a toddler. A few weeks ago, I was very excited to hear the Fiat Topolino is coming stateside. Just last week, I was looking at import fees to get one of those cute little Japanese trucks into the U.S. And while I once took a class to learn how to ride a Harley-Davidson, I think the Honda Motocompo is much more my speed. For those who aren’t familiar with the Motocompo, this zippy little thing was released by Honda in 1981 as a folding motorcycle designed to fit inside the trunk of the Honda City. The handlebars, seat, and footrests folded into the body, creating a compact rectangular shape that could be stored in the car and used for short trips around town. It has since gained a bit of a cult following and is now the inspiration behind the Seiko 5 Sports MOTOCOMPO Limited Edition. For this release, Seiko used its Seiko 5 Sports Field series as the Motocompo’s base, with a compact 36.4mm case and a yellow dial pulled directly from the original vehicle’s color palette. The Honda logo runs through the black section across the center, wh...
Time+Tide
Moonwatch or Snoopy? Omega Speedmaster head-to-head (feat. Fratello’s R.J. Broer)
Episode 3 of Four New Ways to Fly to the Moon — and this one took a detour we didn’t plan. Andrew and Justin were set to go head-to-head on the classic Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch versus the blue Snoopy Speedmaster — the unimpeachable just-means-business OG versus the playful, sadly not so easy to score … Continued
Monochrome
First Look - The Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin Stone Dial Collection
The Manhattan has become one of Maen’s defining collections, offering the angular aesthetics of 1970s integrated sports watches and increasingly refined execution at accessible prices. Building on the success of last year’s Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin, the Swedish brand is introducing natural stone dials to its permanent collection. Mechanically identical to the existing hand-wound model, the […]
Fratello
Zandvoort’s Final Lap: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Limited Edition For The Last Dutch Grand Prix
After 35 years of absence, the Dutch Grand Prix returned to Zandvoort in 2021. It almost seemed impossible at first to organize such a global event in the small beach town. The circuit received a few necessary updates, and encouraging people to come by bike and shuttle from Amsterdam worked. On August 23rd, the final […] Visit Zandvoort’s Final Lap: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Limited Edition For The Last Dutch Grand Prix to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Ceon GR-01, an Indie Watch Designed and Built in Brazil
Independent watchmaking sprouts far beyond well-known centres, and one of the latest examples comes from an unexpected country we largely associate with Carnival, samba, football legends, and the Amazon rainforest. Ceon Watch Co., a new atelier based in Curitiba, Brazil, reveals the GR-01, an ultra-thin integrated watch conceived, manufactured and hand-finished by founder Ricardo A. […]
Fratello
The Best Entry-Level Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is The Downsized Tribute Duoface Small Seconds
If I asked you to draft a list of iconic dress watches, it probably wouldn’t take you long to come up with some answers. And it would not be unreasonable to assume that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso would be on that list. And it would not be strange to assume that it would also be one […] Visit The Best Entry-Level Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is The Downsized Tribute Duoface Small Seconds to read the full article.
Fratello
Uncorking the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph Champagne: A Hands-On Experience
The man who brought the Louis Moinet watch brand to life sadly died very recently. Jean-Marie Schaller, the owner and creative force behind Louis Moinet, passed away peacefully on May 16th at the age of 66. The watch industry lost one of its brightest characters, but the brand continues, and it does so in its […] Visit Uncorking the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph Champagne: A Hands-On Experience to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy
Sometime around 1949, in a workshop above a stationer’s shop in Carouge, Louis Cottier built a worldtime watch out of a piece of cardboard. Movado had asked him to fit their famous Ermeto — a small purse-watch that was wound by opening and closing its case — with a device to read the hour in any country. What Cottier delivered was a piece of card: two columns listing the 12 antipodal city pairs, with a sliding paper scale of hours. Open the case, slide the scale, read New York against Rome. It was ingenious to a fault. Movado’s verdict was blunt, and fair: it ignored the running of the watch entirely and “…could just as well be made on an address-book or a diary,” they wrote on February 4, 1950. The brand concluded that “Nobody would want to carry such a piece.” The 1949 World Time cardboard maquette proposed to Movado. Image – SJX composite/Musée d’art et d’histoire de Genève The cardboard maquette survives, in an archive of some 260 items — letters, patents, notebooks, photographs, a school exercise book, a golf-scoring mechanism — that comprise the most complete record we have of the man the watch world calls the father of the worldtimer. But the story revealed by this evidence is more nuanced than Cottier’s reputation suggests. The legend, briefly The received Louis Cottier is easy to summarise, because everyone summarises him the same way. He was born in Carouge in 1894, and trained in Geneva. After losing his job in the aftermath of th...
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Independent Watchmaking Retrospective
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days — which will feature 71 brands, many of them independent — episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and François-Paul Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming a solitary pursuit into a global collecting community. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Fratello
A Watch Lover’s Pilgrimage to Vienna’s Uhrenmuseum
There’s a kind of quiet that settles over you in a room full of stopped clocks. It’s not exactly silence, somewhere a pendulum is still swinging, a bell is winding up to strike, but a hush that makes you lower your voice without meaning to, as if you’re afraid you might disturb the silence and […] Visit A Watch Lover’s Pilgrimage to Vienna’s Uhrenmuseum to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Hydroconquest Vs. Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”
Good morning and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Grab yourself a nice cup of coffee and take a seat for a battle between two very popular divers. Last week, it was a fight between two Swatch group divers; this week, we pit Longines against Tudor. Both the updated Hydroconquest and the Black Bay “Monochrome” […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Hydroconquest Vs. Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
New releases from Trafford Watch Co, Seiko, Singer and more
Another seven days have passed, and we’re back here keeping you updated with the best of the past week. It’s always nice when a brand decides to expand its permanent collection, and this was the case for Trafford Watch Co. with a pair of perfect everyday watches. More on the tool watch side, we find … Continued
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Ideal Watch Size Survey, Matador’s Reinvention, and Myspace’s Return
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Mark Cho’s Ideal Watch Size Survey is Back Co-founder of The Armoury and permanent resident on my own inspiration board, Mark Cho has once again put out his Ideal Watch Size Survey to the masses. For those unfamiliar, Cho first ran the survey from 2018 to 2021, asking participants about their actual wrist size, how they perceived their wrist size, and what they considered the ideal size for a watch. From this data, Cho and others, including ourselves, were able to glean information about industry trends, but also how those trends seem to affect the way we look at our own bodies. In fact, with nearly 1,000 respondents in the original survey, a significant percentage of people viewed their wrists as smaller than average, while Cho’s findings also pointed toward a growing interest in watches around the 37 to 39mm range (keep in mind, this was a time of Big Watch Supremacy in the marketplace). As with any data set, one can’t always say, “X equals Y,” but there is an interesting correlation (or is it causation? I always forget from my Statistics class) between what the industry makes, what collectors buy, and what we eventually convince ourselves we can wear. With...
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
Building A Watch Collection Without Swiss Watches (5 Collection Suggestions)
There is no other nation that has branded itself more around the craft of watchmaking than Switzerland. The country is unrivaled in the sheer depth of options and brands that call it home; that said, watchmaking is still very much a global game. In this video, we want to demonstrate it by building different watch coll
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - The Retro-Cool V8 Powered SP40 Restomod
Looks can be deceiving, and this rather cool-looking SP40 Restomod might seem like a proverbial blast from the past, but in reality it’s a completely newly built car. It’s the latest discovery, for us at least, in what is an ever-growing line of restomods, where a company takes a classic car icon and turns it […]
SJX Watches
Seiko Celebrates Honda’s Quirky Bike with 5 Sports Motocompo
Compact, affordable Japanese icons collide in the Seiko 5 Sports Motocompo Limited Edition ref. HDB010, a collaboration with Honda that celebrates a collectable and compact 1980s motorbike. It recreates the Motocompo’s Daisy Yellow paint, retro typography, and even its packaging. And at 36.4 mm in diameter, it too can fit in the back of the Honda Jazz. Initial thoughts The Honda Motocompo was an adorable folding scooter briefly offered as an option on the Honda Jazz/City during the early 1980s. When folded up, it was small enough to squeeze into the back of a subcompact car, or even an Acura NSX. Its retro styling is back in fashion, and low production numbers — due to weak sales — make it quite collectable today. Honda offered the Motocompo in three colors: Caribbean Red, Shetland White, and the Daisy Yellow you see here. Image – Honda Motor Company I find the colour choice odd, as to me Honda means red — from the NSX to the brand’s motorcycles. “Honda Red” is the brand’s corporate colour, after all. If this colourway makes me think of anything, it’s Kill Bill: Volume 1. The case back crystal, however, is classic Honda red, concealing the industrially finished workhorse cal. 4R36. Colour aside, the Honda wordmark is appealingly subtle, and the stylised “automatic” text at six, which echoes the original Motocompo branding, turns an otherwise unnecessary label into a defining element of the design. Bluntly speaking, Seiko typography fell off a cliff ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Unimatic UT1-PD
What We Know It's been two years since Unimatic announced their "Toolwatch" collection, and it's possible that you may have forgotten about it. Like all Unimatics, the watches have a strict design language that can make releases blend together. Small tweaks, like today's release of the UT1-PD (Prodiver, in their terms), might look like something you thought existed before, but this is very much a new watch. So what makes the Toolwatch line, and what makes this limited release of 250 pieces different? The UT1-PD has a sandblasted stainless steel case with a 40mm diameter (41.5mm including bezel overhang), 13.6mm thickness (13.3mm without the crystal), and a 49mm lug-to-lug. This is designed as a strict dive watch, meeting all your needs, with a unidirectional 120-click rotating bezel, 300m water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a reliable Seiko VH31A quartz movement. Yes, we love mechanical watches, but quartz does the trick for many needs. The matte dial has white printing with round, triangular, and rectangular hour markers (unlike the previous version, which had Arabic hour markers), and the watch features Super-LumiNova C1 on the hour markers, hour and minute hands, and bezel pip. There are also drilled lug holes, and the watch comes with a black TPU two-piece strap. But the core of Unimatic's Toolwatch line is that the watches meet the U.S. Department of Defense MIL-STD-810H specs, which outline a range of environmental tests to evaluate the durability, ruggedness...
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Patek Phillipe 5000R, A Seiko 7018-8000, Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Moonphase Meteorite, And Much More
Welcome to the dregs and dog days of summer, and happy Friday again. I was emailing someone in Germany who informed me she'd be out of contact until her company reopened—they shut down for the first three weeks of August—and I desperately wish that idea had taken hold worldwide. Especially for those of us north of the equator, these weeks feel like they'd be best spent lounging, taking a sort of seasonal siesta, reading books (the new Tana French is phenomenal) and catching up on shows and movies (Widow's Bay, good lord). Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Wittnauer 235T ends tomorrow, the 8th, and is at $800 at the time of writing, the Blancpain sold for €20,000, and the Eberhard and Cleto Munari are both still available. Strays Photo courtesy of Tropical Watch. My apologies, Baller, for not including this Harwood automatic from the 1920s in last week's listing. While it's a tidy, tiny 30mm, Harwoods are worth paying attention to because they're some of the first automatic watches ever (Leroy beat them, apparently, as being the very first), and you'll note the thing's crownless as well, because the unmarked bezel's not a timing bezel, it's how the time was set. Congrats to whoever snagged it. If you're also more than a little ensorcelled by asymmetric watches, and this Cartier ticks all sorts of boxes (other than all the diamonds). At some point I'll find a Smiths worth giving full coverage to, but until then, this Smiths Imperial—part of a three-watch lot—is w...
Worn & Wound
Rally for the Ages: A Tudor Experience in the Cotswolds
Saturday, 11 July, 11:56AM. “30 Seconds” the timekeeper announces above the fluttering idle of the MG’s 4-cylinder dual carbureted motor. It’s not even midday and I am sweating. Part of it is the epic heatwave hitting Britain and the rest of Europe. Part of it is nerves. “15 Seconds” reminds the timekeeper. I’ve long shaken off the drowsiness from a poor night’s sleep. The cheers from Cole and the rest of the crows representing Tudor fade as concentration takes over. I glance back down at the route book in my lap. Test one is a simple task- only a dozen or so cones and a few slaloms to navigate in the span of a single minute. Simple. I am already feeling the pressure. Shortly, it’s going to get a lot more complicated. “10 Seconds”. Jacob, the driver, looks over at me and clutches in and slots the car into first gear. No words are needed in these precious few seconds. We know what we need to do. I’ve already synchronized the Tudor Ranger 39mm on my left wrist to the exact time of day- in case I forget to reset the stopwatch. A highlighter in my left hand, a pen in my right. Left page- my landmarks, intersections, and signposts. Right page-my time and distance benchmarks. “Five. Four. Three. Two. One. GO!” Jacob gives it gas and clutches out. As the MG leaps forward, my nerves vanish and what little instinct I’ve picked up in the last 15 hours have kicked in. The scream of the MG’s engine tells me it’s about to kiss redline. Jacob executes...
Fratello
The Top 5 Current Seiko Prospex Divers
Another Friday, another list! This week, we pick our five favorite Seiko Prospex dive watches. Following yesterday’s article on the current Prospex collection, we wanted to highlight our favorite divers from it. As most of you will know, Seiko offers a wide range of Prospex divers at different price points. It starts at around €500 […] Visit The Top 5 Current Seiko Prospex Divers to read the full article.
WristBuzz
Patek Philippe 5140G vs 3940G: two ultra-thin perpetuals, one decision
Same movement, same 19mm lug width, same three-subdial layout. So why does the 5140G sit closer to €51k while the 3940G pushes well over €92k, and which of the two Patek perpetual calendars is the smarter buy?
Fratello
Video: The Best Seiko Diver Just Got Better!
I’ve owned my Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 for over ten years, and it impresses me as much today as it did back in 2015. However, the original Marinemaster had some “flaws.” Such as the Hardlex crystal, steel bezel insert, and flimsy-feeling clasp and diving extension. Seiko released many references after the SBDX001, but not all of […] Visit Video: The Best Seiko Diver Just Got Better! to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral
The Tourbillon Sidéral debuted last year to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary. This year, the brand is celebrating the 225th anniversary of its founder’s best-known achievement: the tourbillon. For this occasion, Breguet released a quartet of new references, among them the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT, a 50-piece limited edition in platinum, once again featuring an in-house aventurine enamel dial. Initial thoughts Despite being the brand’s first-ever flying tourbillon, the Tourbillon Sidéral feels somewhat familiar. That’s because its cal. 187M1 is derived from the brand’s original wristwatch tourbillon movement, the cal. 558, released in 1989. That explains the familiar off-centre dial arrangement and full-plate architecture visible through the case back. Within this lineage, the Tourbillon Sidéral can be considered the spiritual heir and technical successor to the Classique Tourbillon Messidor 5335 released 2007, a watch that seemed to suspend its tourbillon in mid-air. In fact, this mystery tourbillon was driven by a sapphire crystal drive wheel, and its upper pivot was supported by a sapphire crystal bridge. The Tourbillon Sidéral elevates this concept to its natural conclusion, dispensing with the upper support bridge entirely, resulting in a true flying tourbillon. Unfortunately, the two-armed tourbillon cage itself spans almost the entire width of the opening, and at times resembles an upper support bridge, at least until the eye registers ...
Fratello
Feel The Power! The Newly Refreshed Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
When it comes to the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, three years are important: 1954, 1959, and 2024. 1954 marks the year of the Conquest collection’s birth, 1959 is the year in which the first Conquest with a central power reserve indicator debuted, and 2024 marks the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection. This […] Visit Feel The Power! The Newly Refreshed Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Introduces Six "Edo Purple" Limited Edition Watches For 145th Anniversary
Seiko launches six limited edition watches done in a "Edo purple" colorway celebrating the 145th anniversary of the Japanese watchmaker.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Laps Leaps into New Territory with the Arche, their First Mechanical Model
What started as a fashion watch brand a decade ago is making a leap into more traditional watchmaking territory. Laps has introduced its first mechanical model, the Arche as part of a new Studio Series. The collection consists of four iterations, two with simple textured dials and two that take on one of classic watchmaking’s key artforms: enamel. The dial is arguably the main focus of nearly all watches. It conveys the most pertinent information and serves as the aesthetic centerpiece. When French designer and art collector Antonin Mercie created Laps in 2016, he took the emphasis on the dial a step further – this would not just be the core focus of the watches but the core focus of the brand. Examples of watches from the Laps “Signature” collection The base of the original Editions models varies slightly but overall carries a vintage aesthetic hailing from the funky eras of 70s and 80s watchmaking. Both the Prima and the Signature cases are rectangular, with the former being slightly smaller and squarer at 28mm by 23mm and the latter slightly larger and more rectangular at 35mm by 26mm. Each is topped off with the option of a leather strap or bracelet whose design is aligned with the retro theme, mimicking a stretch bracelet in texture but presented in a traditional manner with a buckle closure. Powering the models in the Editions series are straightforward, time-only quartz movements. All of this lays the foundation for the star of the show – the dials – whi...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon
Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that has long embodied the idea of quiet luxury — or "private luxury," as Parmigiani CEO Guido Terrini asserts — frankly, sometimes to a fault. Many of its models pair spectacular watchmaking with a radically simplified design language, and the unique execution of a mechanical chronograph in the brand's Tonda Chronograph Mystérieux earlier this spring quite literally hides its mechanical extravagance as part of the complication. We'll have more on the Chronograph Mystérieux soon, but there's another watch launched this year that also feels unmistakably Parmigiani in execution—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary in white gold. To celebrate the brand's 30th anniversary this year, Parmigiani Fleurier launched a trio of limited-edition Toric models at Watches and Wonders, featuring hand-hammered gold dials. The Toric Petite Seconde in platinum, a Toric Quantième Perpétuel in rose gold, and a Toric Chronographe Rattrapante in platinum all got the new dial treatment. Then, a few months after the show, Parmigiani dropped this whopper of a watch. Let's get the not-so-fun part out of the way first—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary is limited to 5 pieces, and priced at CHF 490,000. To most collectors, it might be an unobtainium watch in so many aspects, but that doesn't stop this thing from being an absolute joy to see in person. At a glance, the overall silhouette of the Carillon Tourbillon fits into the classic Parmigiani play...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Two Wild Dials From Ming, With The "Peepshow" and J.N. Shapiro Collaboration "Lightning"
You could easily argue that Ming is a materials and manufacturing incubator masquerading as a watch company. Lume that glows white. The lightest ever mechanical watch. The world's first 3D-printed titanium bracelet-strap hybrid. All of these are associated with pretty incredible products, but, to some extent, I think it's fair to say the watches themselves are vehicles for showcasing cool innovation. That's not to say the watches are anything but great. But on occasion they're solutions looking for a problem. I kind of love the brand for it. That kind of innovation also extends to dial making, where Ming has recently released two really interesting dial-making exercises in their collaboration with J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 "Lightning" and standalone 29.06 "Peepshow." I recently had the chance to go hands-on with a few novelties from Ming. The brand, of course, had a great coup when the 37.09 "Bluefin" beat Tudor and a few others for the best sports watch at GPHG in 2024. They followed up with the 37.09 Uni, which I would say is their most practical release of late. The 56.00 "Starfield" is pretty wild but not to my taste, so I gravitated toward covering the two more dial-focused releases of this year (and their LW01 lightweight watch, which will get a future story on its own). It seemed fitting to start with the Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 "Lightning," since I was actually photographing Shapiro's most recent release the same day. And boy, is the watch stunning in person. Th...
Monochrome
First Look - The Yema Superman Bronze CMM.10 Returns in Three new Colours
Yema adds three new Bronze CMM.10 references to its increasingly capable and diversified Superman collection. While the French brand has explored bronze before through limited series, including a very cool Superman Bronze CMM.10 with a blue sandwich-style dial, these new watches bring updated gilt dials and a trio of glossy colour options. Retaining the compact […]