25,980 articles · 6,084 videos found · page 568 of 1069
Time+Tide
Allow me to preface this piece with some full disclosure. I purchased this watch with my own money. It isn’t on loan from anyone and I can assure you the credit-card balance is very real and on my mind every month. For those who are interested in such things, I purchased it new from my … ContinuedThe post Why I fell for two-tone and bought the Rolex Submariner 126613LB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
As there is no official, universally accepted, or legally binding description of what a dandy watch is, Martin Green takes it upon himself to coin one. A dandy (like Martin) doesn't follow fashion, but walks to the beat of his own drum. Here Martin shares a few watches that he thinks are just dandy.
Quill & Pad
"It's not a pocket watch," Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk's co-founder and chief watchmaker, emphasized, "It's a 'Zeit Device'." This ultra-complicated calendar-cum-pocket watch is one of the most unique timepieces in the horological world today. Enjoy its starring role in this new 'Easy Rider'-style video.
Time+Tide
Reviving or reinterpreting classic icons is usually a safe bet for watch manufacturers, speaking to both longstanding fans as well as newcomers seeking vintage vibes in the modern era. For the 60th Anniversary of the beloved Autavia line, TAG Heuer has reached into their rich archives to introduce a new take on one of their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary Silver Panda appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With 2022 being the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has already launched a slew of new models barely a month into the year. While the headline watches are no doubt the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm ref. 15550 is a more accessible watch, both in terms of price and availability. It too gets an upgrade for the 50th anniversary in the form of a new movement, the cal. 5900, along with a revamped case, dial, and bracelet. Initial thoughts As familiar as it might seem, the ref. 15550 received as complete a makeover as possible while still retaining the trademark design. Individually the changes are minor but together they create a watch that looks and feels better than the previous version of the mid-size Royal Oak. The tweaks can be spotted even at arm’s length, including the streamlined dial that has been cleaned up to reduce the text, giving it a look similar to that found on the latest-generation Royal Oak 41 mm ref. 15500. The newly minimalist dial works especially well with the mid-size case, with the empty space looking just right. In contrast, the dial style seems almost bland on its larger counterpart. Two lines of text have been eliminated: “AP” at 12 o’clock and “AUTOMATIC” at six The case and bracelet also get their own nips and tucks, though the alterations are far more subtle. Amongst the changes are slightly wider bevels along the edge of the case, making it seem to tap...
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Quill & Pad
On January 24, 2022, two Swiss watch brands, Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, were reorganized in response to men’s fashion developments in Rome, Italy. In a vacuum, it is hard to see how one would lead to the other: their connection is the Kering group. And then there's LVMH, but how does that group fit in here? Professor of economics Brendan Cunningham offers some thoughts on how all of this might just go together.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s opening act of the year is straightforward but significant: the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Created to mark the 50th anniversary of its quintessential octagonal watch, the new “Jumbo” is arguably the first truly new version of the original Royal Oak, as it contains a latest-generation movement. the cal. 7121 replaces the cal. 2120/2121 that’s been in service since 1972. Naturally the ref. 16202 makes it debut in the quintessential combination of a blue-grey dial and steel case. And the line up also includes three precious metal versions that are arguably more striking (and certainly more expensive). The cal. 7121 Initial thoughts With the retirement of the ref. 15202 announced last year, an all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” became inevitable. And the fact that this year is the 50th anniversary of the model makes it even more so. It happened and fortunately, the new “Jumbo” lives up to expectations. It’s still very much the same – the case dimensions remains unchanged – but revamped just enough to it a substantively new watch in technical terms. And then there are the gorgeous smoked dial finishes, which set it apart from past models and make it the “Jumbo” of the 21st century. Especially delicious in yellow gold The highlight of the ref. 16202 is the cal. 7121. Still ultra thin like its predecessor, the cal. 7121 boasts a modern construction that promises superior timekeeping over a longer period as well as better r...
SJX Watches
While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...
SJX Watches
Having enjoyed modest success with its affordable(ish) Tonda GT sports watch launched two years ago, Parmigiani tweaked the concept and debuted a more refined – and pricier – sports watch last year, the Tonda PF. The line up includes the base-model Micro-Rotor in steel reviewed here, along with a chronograph and annual calendar. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in steel Taking generous inspiration from the brand’s more classical timepieces, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelet. While the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor doesn’t deviate much from the familiar formula for a luxury-sports watch, it does excel in a few ways, helping it stand out from the competition, most notably with its minimalist dial and ultra-thin automatic movement that are both executed to a high level. And its bigger brother, the Tonda PF Chronograph in pink gold Initial thoughts The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is surprisingly thin, making it seem slightly wider than its 40 mm diameter. But it sits flat and elegant, with the lines of the case flowing into the bracelet, giving it a sleek look on the wrist. Despite its delicate looks, the Micro-Rotor (along with the rest of the Tonda PF range) is water resistant to a respectable 100 m. Unlike many of Parmigiani’s recent models (including its more affordable sports watch, the Tonda GT), the Tonda PF is minimalist in terms of styling. And the Micro-Rotor, being the simplest watch in the collection, is the most pared back. Its di...
Deployant
The new Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games is a limited edition of 2022 pieces and retails at S$2860. It is a colorful variant to an otherwise common dive watch design, and benefits from a rather robust 3-day automatic movement. Fit on a bracelet and water resistant to 300m, the watch is versatile and sporty, and rather ideal as a daily beater.
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Time+Tide
We’re a few weeks into the new year, and while a lot has already happened the watch industry is not showing any signs of slowing down. Game-changing novelties and decisions are already happening, and with LVMH Watch Week starting next week and Watches & Wonders Geneva inching closer and closer you already know the pipeline … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing the steady pace of personnel changes since French telecoms tycoon Patrick Drahi acquired Sotheby’s in 2019, the auction house has just announced an overhaul of its watches and jewellery departments in Asia. The chairman of Jewellery and Watches for the region is Wenhao Yu, formerly of Beijing-based Poly Auction. The jewellery department will be led by Regine Ngan, while the watch department promoted from within with Joey Luk being elevated to the top job. The trio will report to Josh Pullan, who was appointed Head of Global Luxury Division just last year after almost a decade as a manager in Sotheby’s digital and e-commerce departments, which no doubt explains Sotheby’s volume of online-only auctions. Left to right: Regine Ngan, Wenhao Yu, and Joey Luk A veteran of watch auctions despite her relative youth, Ms Luk was most recently Head of Sale, having been recruited to Sotheby’s from Phillips in 2018. Ms Luk succeeds Sam Hines who will “take on an advisory role for Sotheby’s worldwide Watches sales efforts”. Mr Hines led Sotheby’s to a record year in 2021, where watch auctions totalled over US$150 million. Sotheby’s also claimed the title of most expensive wristwatch sold at auction in 2021 with the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” once belonging to an Egyptian prince that sold for US$9.57 million (pictured at top). He will be leaving Sotheby’s with a bang – his closing act will be a single-owner sale of 41 Patek Philippe wr...
SJX Watches
A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...
Time+Tide
Who did it first? That is always a prominent question in watch design. When people begin to discuss the Zenith Defy, many people categorise it as an intriguing alternative to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Royal Oak is credited as the reference that birthed the luxury sports category, which made its debut in 1972. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
There is a wide variety of criteria that Martin Green might apply to make a list of his top 5 watches of 2021, but he has chosen to follow the most important one: whether when he first saw the watch it brought a rush of excitement and continues to do so every time he sees it. Here he shares his five favorites of 2021, and some may surprise you.
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SJX Watches
Now in its fifth year of smartwatches, Louis Vuitton has just unveiled the latest generation of its “connected” watch, the Tambour Horizon Light Up. Still easily recognisable as a Louis Vuitton watch, and looking more like a watch than a device – that is the point of it – the Light Up is a thoughtful evolution of the concept, bringing with it a rounded, edge-to-edge screen and redesigned case. The result is a surprisingly attractive watch, albeit one that is amongst the priciest smartwatches on the market. The Light Up gets its name from the “rainbow” bezel powered by two dozen LEDs Initial thoughts Smartwatches with screens generally fall into two categories. One comes from the likes of Apple and Samsung, gadgets for the wrist that are evidently electronic devices. And the other are those from traditional watchmakers, ranging from TAG Heuer to Montblanc, which are typically resemble large wrist instruments for sports. With its simple case and discreet buttons, the Light Up clearly just wants to be a watch – and it succeeds. It is a (very) luxe smartwatch, so it’s not for everyone, but there’s no denying that the Light Up is appealing as a watch with intelligent features. With its Ressence-like case and whimsical features, the watch avoids the oversized wrist gadget look, and perfectly encapsulates the brand’s design prowess and house style. Left to right: the steel case in a polished finish, matte black PVD, and matte brown PVD And the Light Up is, ...
SJX Watches
Now in its third decade, Franck Muller is a success story of independent watchmaking, having gone from a small outfit centred on its eponymous founder to a brand with nine-figure annual revenue. Alongside its stable of inventive and highly complicated wristwatches, the brand is most famous for its tonneau-shaped watch case – the Cintrée Curvex – which was so successful in the 1990s that made tonneau cases a thing in contemporary watchmaking. The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of that tonneau shape, while adopting the palette and styling of the Cintrée Curvex Casablanca that was a bestseller when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was introduced in 2014, the Casablanca makes it debuts with a new 43 mm size that fills the gap between the 41 mm and 45 mm cases. Initial thoughts The original Casablanca took its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Meant to evoke the era of steamship travel and exotic port cities, the Casablanca had oversized Arabic numerals and dials in retro colours like salmon and sand. That’s been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a distinctly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a strong and appealing design that is arguably even more quintessentially Franck Muller than the earlier versions of the Vanguard. The Casablanca is available as a time-only and also a chronograph Because the look is very much typical of Franck Muller, thi...
Time+Tide
Well, 2022 is certainly not wasting any time when it comes to new announcements. Already Grand Seiko, Zenith and TAG Heuer have launched fresh timepieces this week, and there is only more to come with LVMH Watch Week rapidly approaching. Grand Seiko dropped the mic, launching a second White Birch inspired watch: the Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...
Quill & Pad
While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.
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Time+Tide
Grand Seiko is wasting no time in 2022, dropping two new icy blue US Special Editions straight out of the gate and now making waves with a second “White Birch” inspired watch: The Grand Seiko SLGA009. This release ushers in a new era for Grand Seiko watchmaking that the brand refers to as Evolution 9 … ContinuedThe post What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you want to get know what makes any given watch collector tick, then it is wise to get a sense of what is in their watch collection. But if you really want to dig deeper, then its best to ask which watch they wear the most. Right before the close of 2021, the team … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...
Quill & Pad
Some of the top watch manufacturers in the world have released special edition watches in honor of the 50th anniversary of the UAE for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, who stages Dubai Watch Week. This collection of 35 models – which is also very likely already long sold out – makes for a very interesting chapter in the ever-evolving stories of the UAE and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Check out five of the most interesting right here!
Deployant
Overall, the Harry Winston Z14 fares well in design and complication. Its approach shows that it understands the modern affluent buyer, with the current trend of sports luxury timepieces. The openworked design is well executed and the retrograde display cleverly shows the snail cam in action for dial side animation. The watch is limited to 300 pieces and has a retail price of US$26,400.
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