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Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jan 13, 2023

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide

Japan’s Grand Seiko has become, in a relatively short span of time, one of the world’s most prestigious and collectible high-luxury watchmakers, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. And while its success is definitely a 21st century phenomenon, Grand Seiko is not really a “new brand” in the strictest sense. The first Grand Seiko watch (below) debuted all the way back in 1960, part of the much larger product portfolio of Japanese watchmaking giant Seiko, which was founded in 1881 and achieved its worldwide fame by embracing the mass market with timepieces at accessible prices with wide distribution. The Grand Seiko, by contrast, was positioned as the megabrand’s exclusive “King of Watches,” with standards of accuracy, beauty, durability, and legibility that could meet or surpass its Swiss competitors. Until 2010, it was also Japan’s best-kept horological secret, not exported to markets outside the country. Seven years after its international expansion, having cultivated a loyal and avid audience worldwide, an entirely new and distinct customer base apart from mainline Seiko’s, Grand Seiko firmly established itself as an independent brand - albeit one still intrinsically tied to its parent company through shared history and technology. Among those technologies is an innovative type of watch movement that was perfected right before the turn of the 21st Century and remains the exclusiv...

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The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Jan 13, 2023

The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating

This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Reinterpreting classic watches in a modern package is something TAG probably doesn’t get enough credit for, but if you really want to feel like you’re wearing a vintage watch made with meticulous care, there are few brands doing it better than TAG right now.  TAG Heuer is positioning this new release as a watch for the serious collector. It’s limited to 600 units, and the brand is well aware of the high profile of the 2447 SN. Back in early 2020, TAG celebrated the 160th anniversary of the brand with the similarly positioned 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, a recreation of the all silver 2447 S. That was a hugely popular release at the time, but you can imagine collectors grumbling about a preference for the more dynamic panda dial of the 2447 SN. Now it seems likely that TAG was wisely saving the SN for the Carrera’s big 60th birthday party, and we can see the full picture of their strategy take shape.  It’s hard to find something new to say about a watch like the Carrera. Do...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Hublot TAG Heuer Jan 13, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari

While it may only be the second week of the new year, we already, in this past week alone, have a ton of new novelties to explore. Much of this can be attributed to LVMH Watch Week, that just wrapped up in Singapore, but Grand Seiko also threw their hat in the ring as well. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First Limited Editions Jan 12, 2023

Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber

It’s an often repeated mantra around here: every year is an anniversary year. And if a watch brand is going to be successful in today’s hyper competitive market where, frankly, a lot of brands are offering products that are remarkably similar to one another, they need to differentiate themselves. And looking at a calendar, and figuring out how many years it’s been since “X” accomplishment or “Y” watch was first released is (usually) a decent runway for explaining what makes you special. To that end, Grand Seiko is embarking on what will apparently be a year of celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Caliber 9S, a movement which has become foundational to Grand Seiko in the decades since its debut.  The Caliber 9S has become a broad family of movements over the years, as Grand Seiko has continuously refined the caliber, including adding GMT functionality. Grand Seiko has used the 9S movements as a platform for their MEMS engineering techniques, which allow for insanely tight tolerances in movement making for certain key components, and you could probably argue that 9S movements represent the most traditional watchmaking currently practiced by the brand. Today, 9S movements are universally known to be reliable and rock solid high frequency calibers that often perform even better than the specs would indicate. Most recently, the 9S served as the springboard for the creation of Grand Seiko’s next generation Hi-Beat movement, the 9SA5.  While it might not be t...

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Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial Worn & Wound
Hublot Asks Why Settle Jan 12, 2023

Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial

Yesterday, Blake took you through all the details of Hublot’s latest reinterpretation of their Classic Fusion with the updated Classic Fusion Original. For the Hublot historians out there (are you out there?), this was surely a welcome sight, as it calls back to the earliest days of the brand when a luxury watch on a rubber strap was a truly transgressive idea. We’ve come a long way since then, and so has Hublot. The brand has had ups and downs with the watch community (to the say the least), but in recent years they’ve leaned into experimentation with materials (especially colored ceramics and sapphire) that have gotten the attention of open minded and adventurous collectors and enthusiasts, while making watches like the Classic Fusion Original feel almost sleepy by comparison (sorry, Classic Fusion Original). Hublot’s latest envelope pushing novelties are insane in the way only modern Hublot can pull off, and while they likely won’t find a home in the watch box of any Worn & Wound staffers anytime soon, they’re too crazy not to share.  First up, a watch in the same vein as my beloved Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This tennis ball colored, translucent tourbillon uses the same HUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement as the purple version released last year, and fills out the same enormous 44mm Big Bang form factor, but uses a slightly different synthetic sapphire material in the case construct...

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Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original

One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...

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Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 12, 2023

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm

In 1971, Zenith introduced the Defy, a steel sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel that was the inspiration for the Defy Skyline, a simple three-hander in steel with an integrated bracelet. Today, the brand has updated the Skyline with a smaller case of 36 mm and three new dial colours. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Skyline makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The highlight of the Defy Skyline is its compact, 36 mm size. For someone like me who leans towards classic proportions and prefers smaller watches, the size is a plus while also making it more wearable. Along with the size, the clean, simple design is also versatile enough for both genders. And the option of a diamond-set model and bright dial colours certainly elevate its appeal for a wider audience. At US$8,500 for the standard model and 50% more for the diamond-set variant, it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. And while it might not have all the bells and whistles of some of Zenith’s signature chronograph offerings, it’s easy to like for someone looking for a straightforward sports watch with an in-house movement. More colours and a compact size While the original Defy Skyline was 41 mm, the new version is considerably smaller. In spite of its reduced size, the case still retains the distinctive octagonal form with a brushed finish and matching bracelet. But it is equipped with a strap-change mechan...

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Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer LVMH Jan 11, 2023

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

LVMH Watch Week, the year’s first significant watch fair, just kicked off in Singapore. In some ways a warmup for Watches & Wonders in March – the biggest watch fair of the year – the LVMH Watch Week is where the watchmakers owned by the French group show off their wares. Amongst them is TAG Heuer, which has revived one of its less-known racing chronographs from the 1970s but in a thoroughly modern style. The Monza Flyback Chronometer is a flyback chronograph featuring an open-worked dial and a 42 mm carbon composite case. Initial thoughts Perhaps the most aggressively modern chronograph in TAG Heuer’s current line-up, the new Monza liberally reinterprets the 1970s original. While the vintage Monza is not famous as the Carrera or Monaco, it is interesting in several respects, including the fact that it was the first serially-produced Heuer to sport a black-coated case. The carbon case and open-worked, asymmetrical dial show another face of TAG Heuer, but one that still fits with its motorsports-chronograph heritage. Certainly a TAG Heuer that is different, the Monza has clearly been conceived to cater to contemporary tastes, which is a good thing given that TAG Heuer already has an ample offering of faithful vintage remakes. But the new Monza comes with a caveat, a steep price. Coming in at US$13,500, the Monza costs double the Autavia Flyback Chronograph that has the same movement but a no-frills steel case. Even considering the carbon composite case and fanc...

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Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands” SJX Watches
Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 Jan 11, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”

Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...

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The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right Time+Tide
Hamilton Murph Jan 10, 2023

The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right

As both a watch buff and a film buff, I love it when those two worlds collide. When we see a watch on screen, it’s usually a brief glimpse, scarcely enough time to make out the model, but sometimes, said timepiece actually becomes central to the plot. The James Bond ouvre is the prime example … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions

As business ventures, microbrands can sometimes seem a little bit soulless. All it takes is one person with some starting capital and a catalogue of parts to put together an attractive watch that offers good value for money, but that formula is becoming harder and harder to replicate for watch enthusiasts whose collections are beginning … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic Time+Tide
Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms It’s Jan 8, 2023

The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic

In a space where so much history has gone before, it’s nigh impossible to create a timepiece that’s totally unique. For example, just about any dive watch you can name shares at least some DNA with the Rolex Submariner or Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. It’s called classic rock for a reason, and for every Omega Speedmaster, … ContinuedThe post The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection Time+Tide
Casio n they release Jan 7, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection

Meistersinger may be renowned for their single-handed watches, but there is the extremely rare occasion they release a watch that has two. Of course, it would be silly to assume that means you get a traditional hour and minute hand, as the Meistersinger Primatic instead gives you their emblematic mono-hand as well as a power … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 6, 2023

30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500

As new enthusiasts dip their toes in the waters of the watch world, it’s easy for them to become mired in watch-specific terminology that, while second nature to seasoned nerds, can prove challenging for anyone less experienced. Understanding the specific nature of the type of movement powering a watch is an excellent example of an area in which a little bit of research goes a long way in elevating your knowledge base and helping you to make an informed purchasing decision. Terms like quartz, mechanical, automatic, manual, and hand-winding are essential basic knowledge for anyone looking to bring their understanding of watches to the next level or purchase a new piece. In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the most prominent types of mechanical movement types on the market. First, we’ll create a high-level primer on how the most popular types of watch movements operate before digging into a list of some of the best options on the more attainable end of the spectrum for each respective movement type. To begin, let’s tackle the term “mechanical” as it relates to watches. In the modern watch world, the vast majority of watches fall into two major subsets. The first is quartz, which utilizes power from an installed battery to power a small circuit that measures timekeeping by way of an oscillating quartz crystal, shaped like a tiny tuning fork, which vibrates at exactly 32,768 per second, allowing for an impressively high level of accuracy. Quartz calibe...

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The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Jan 6, 2023

The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith

This past year was quite a journey for my collection, with new additions and trades – as I am known for every now and again. While I have been bad about it the last few months, with consecutive new watch addition honeymoon periods, typically I try to avoid wearing the same watch two days in … ContinuedThe post The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update Time+Tide
Omega teases tiny yet massive Jan 6, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update

Davey boy, oh Davey boy. Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy has already found himself in hot water with, what he refers to, as “watch geeks”. The launch of his watch brand Brick Watch Company was absolutely ridiculed by watch enthusiasts online, the recurring theme being that his designs were unimaginative, generic, ugly and overpriced. In … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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