Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for NOS (New Old Stock)

17,541 articles · 104 videos found · page 569 of 589

‘The Watch Annual’ 2021 Book Review: For Watch Lovers By Watch Lovers Quill & Pad
Jan 20, 2022

‘The Watch Annual’ 2021 Book Review: For Watch Lovers By Watch Lovers

The inaugural edition of 'The Watch Annual' came out just before Christmas 2020, and now Elizabeth Doerr is pleased to hold the second edition – 'The Watch Annual' 2021 – in her hands. This book is about the watch community, a reflection of social media, the watch fam, and, of course, new watch releases. But it’s also about something else too: charity, appreciation, and giving back.

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01 SJX Watches
Breguet numerals so I was Jan 20, 2022

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01

A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca SJX Watches
Franck Muller Jan 14, 2022

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca

Now in its third decade, Franck Muller is a success story of independent watchmaking, having gone from a small outfit centred on its eponymous founder to a brand with nine-figure annual revenue. Alongside its stable of inventive and highly complicated wristwatches, the brand is most famous for its tonneau-shaped watch case – the Cintrée Curvex – which was so successful in the 1990s that made tonneau cases a thing in contemporary watchmaking. The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of that tonneau shape, while adopting the palette and styling of the Cintrée Curvex Casablanca that was a bestseller when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was introduced in 2014, the Casablanca makes it debuts with a new 43 mm size that fills the gap between the 41 mm and 45 mm cases. Initial thoughts The original Casablanca took its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Meant to evoke the era of steamship travel and exotic port cities, the Casablanca had oversized Arabic numerals and dials in retro colours like salmon and sand. That’s been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a distinctly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a strong and appealing design that is arguably even more quintessentially Franck Muller than the earlier versions of the Vanguard. The Casablanca is available as a time-only and also a chronograph Because the look is very much typical of Franck Muller, thi...

What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA009 Jan 11, 2022

What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches?

Grand Seiko is wasting no time in 2022, dropping two new icy blue US Special Editions straight out of the gate and now making waves with a second “White Birch” inspired watch: The Grand Seiko SLGA009. This release ushers in a new era for Grand Seiko watchmaking that the brand refers to as Evolution 9 … ContinuedThe post What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium (#15) Time+Tide
Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Jan 9, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 - The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium (#15)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best judging by the online traffic. At number 15, it’s the Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium… Longines have been leading the nostalgia bandwagon for years now. Their Heritage … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium (#15) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings a luxurious touch of hyper-masculinity to the wrist Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings Jan 5, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings a luxurious touch of hyper-masculinity to the wrist

Black and gold as a colour combination will never fail to melt hearts, serving to imbue any watch with a sense of deluxe class no matter how macho it may be. The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo may just be the perfect example of this, with all its tool-watch pedigree and masculine undertones, it just can’t … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings a luxurious touch of hyper-masculinity to the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking SJX Watches
Jan 3, 2022

A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking

This is the story of a man, my great grandfather Dominik “Dinko” Bakuk Kovacevic, his Waltham pocket watch, and the legacy of the American watch industry. Though he died before I was born, Dinko is a significant figure in my life because I was given my middle name, Dominic, in his honor. Dinko was born in 1875 in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar on the Dalmation coast of what is now Croatia, but was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. As a young man, Dinko joined the short-lived Austro-Hungarian Navy and quickly rose through the ranks to become an officer. My great grandparents, Dominik and Aloisia Kovacevic, on their wedding day in 1908 Following his military service, at the age of 27, he set sail from the French port of Le Havre for New York City, aboard the SS La Lorraine. He arrived on Ellis Island in New York Harbor on August 16, 1902. He was joined by his fiancee Aloisia six years later, and they were married a few days after her arrival in the US in 1908. The SS La Lorraine, the ship that brought Dinko to the United States in 1902. Image – Library of Congress After his arrival in the US, Dinko moved west, like many entrepreneurial immigrants of his generation. By 1920, he was the proprietor of a grocery store in Tonopah, Nevada, before eventually settling near Berkeley, California where my mother’s family still lives. Dinko passed away in 1953, by which time he was affectionately known within the family as “Grandpa Old Man.” My great grandmother, ...

VIDEO: Audemars Piguet’s top 5 watches of 2021 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s top 5 watches Dec 30, 2021

VIDEO: Audemars Piguet’s top 5 watches of 2021

Audemars Piguet marched loudly into 2021, dropping no fewer than 16 watches before we had even hit the end of March. It was definitely a year of evolution over revolution, but the manner in which their watches evolved felt like the brand really had their ears to the ground. Possibly their boldest release is actually … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Audemars Piguet’s top 5 watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Blue Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 27, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Blue Sapphire

When the price of a watch crosses into six figures, you usually know that it’s getting serious. The manufacturing, finishing, movement engineering, and even the strap are all expected to be on a totally new level to anything else. But, with great expense, also comes great freedom, as watch manufacturers can afford to spend way … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Blue Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 23, 2021

The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems

Rainbow watches are possibly the most divisive sub-genre around. They’re loud, they’re blingy, and the word ostentatious barely even begins to cover them. Yet no matter how many people swear they would never be caught dead wearing one, I would bet that there’s a nagging voice in the back of everyone’s minds just wishing to … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Brett Goldstein (AKA Roy Kent from Ted Lasso) wears a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light at the Critics Choice Awards Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light Dec 16, 2021

Brett Goldstein (AKA Roy Kent from Ted Lasso) wears a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light at the Critics Choice Awards

Aside from the FIFA video game series, I can’t say, as an American, that I am overly tuned into what the majority of the world refers to as “football”. But when Apple TV debuted their now wildly successful series Ted Lasso, one character became an instant favourite: Roy Kent. Played by writer and actor Brett … ContinuedThe post Brett Goldstein (AKA Roy Kent from Ted Lasso) wears a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light at the Critics Choice Awards appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 Dec 16, 2021

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is a dive watch in precious metal, but still affordable – by a large margin compared to the all-yellow gold version – but no less intriguing than its pricier cousin. The standout feature of the”925″ is obvious from the model name: a case made of sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver by weight. But the taupe colour scheme is perhaps more unusual, especially for a dive watch. Essentially a muted grey with a hint of olive, the palette makes this the most understated Black Bay to date. I was impressed when this was released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, but found it seemingly bland when I first saw it in the metal, albeit tightly wrapped in protective plastic. A few months later, Tudor lent me one for a test drive. The brand had insured the watch and assured me that it was fine to wear it out of the house, so I wore it out the day I received it. Initial thoughts A bestseller since its inception three years ago, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) quickly evolved from a single model into a line-up of five variants, three of which – gold, silver, and bronze – were launched just this year. Five versions in three years might sound like a lot, but each iteration is vastly different in both style and material, so each has its own appeal. Most importantly, each BB58 variant will likely appeal to different buyers. Among the BB58s, the 925 is arguably the most unique. For one, a precious metal case is novel for Tudor, a brand...

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White” SJX Watches
Czapek Debuts Dec 15, 2021

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White”

Revived six years ago via crowdfunding, Czapek’s original claim to fame was being the original business partner of Patek before he joined with Philippe. The brand has since gained traction thanks to its proprietary movements and more recently, a sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Now the sports watch is the basis of a collaboration between Czapek and Dutch watch magazine Monochrome. Featuring a muted, all-white livery, the Antarctique “Monochrome White” has a grained dial in pearl white. Initial thoughts While the Antarctique is a new entry into the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment, the design sticks to a familiar formula because there are only so many ways a sports watch with an integrated bracelet can be accomplished. The Monochrome edition sets itself apart with its white dial – a good look that’s unusual for a sports watch, a category where blue, grey, and green dials dominate. It’s a refreshing look that’s also practical, as light-coloured dial makes for good legibility. The case and bracelet of the Antarctique are also finished neatly with contrasting surfaces, but where the watch shines is the movement. Developed in-house with the help of specialists, it’s a micro-rotor automatic with a modern style but unusual details that evoke vintage pocket watch movements. Few competitors in this category and price range have movements that are similarly elaborate in construction and finish. The individual “finger” bridges for the gear tra...

Hublot Introduces the Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Dec 8, 2021

Hublot Introduces the Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow

Earlier this year Hublot dropped the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami with its spinning, smiling flower. But the watch was surprisingly all-black – even set with black diamonds – seemingly antithetical to the artist’s splashy, polychromatic style. Now the watchmaker has taken the idea to its logical conclusion (or perhaps there will be more) with the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow. It’s essentially the same watch but rendered in full colour and clear sapphire, an upbeat – and pricey – timepiece that exemplifies the quintessential aesthetic of both Hublot and Murakami. Initial thoughts The all-black Murakami edition was a stellar success – it sold out within a day – and Hublot already had plans at the time for a follow up; in fact, its spokesperson said so during the launch of the original version). Repetition isn’t always exciting for fortunately the new edition is certainly perfectly executed for what it is, while also being a far smaller run. Most importantly, it looks different enough – the chromatic opposite in fact – to make it compelling even for someone who owns the first version. The new look is even more striking, since the transparent case creates an open aesthetic that allows the coloured stones to shine – a case in another material would arguably have diminished the impact of the rainbow gemstones. Notably, the latest version is also true to the both the artist and brand. While a sapphire case isn’t novel, it’s...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Dec 5, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue

Last year, Hublot introduced a Big Bang Unico Sky Blue – which we raved about due to its eye-popping hue in a year where blue dominated the market. Limited to 100 pieces, the watch subsequently sold out. Yet buyers who missed out may now have the opportunity to secure something similar, although subtle and clear … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Dec 3, 2021

Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva had a hit on his hands with last year’s S.U.F. Helsinki x Moomin, a limited edition made to mark 75 years of the titular Swedish comic strip about trolls. Now the watchmaker is following up with the Sarpaneva x Moomin, which is seemingly identical in terms of design but actually an entirely different watch. Crucially, this is a Sarpaneva wristwatch, unlike last year’s Moomin edition, which was an S.U.F. Helsinki, a line of affordable watches spun off from Sarpaneva. Being a Sarpaneva, it is a higher end product, it has the decoration and finishing typical of Sarpaneva wristwatches, as well as the corresponding price. Initial thoughts Having enjoying a brisk sellout last year, the Moomin watch making a comeback is not a surprise. Ordinarily I don’t like repeats of the same thing, but here it’s not exactly the same thing. And in fact the new Moomin watch is tangibly superior. Sarpaneva is repeating the idea with a twist, putting the same design into a watch with better fit and finish. One obvious example of that improvement is the open-worked chapter ring around the dial, which is finished by hand with circular graining  and polished bevels. Another is the skeletonised rotor with the Sarpaneva moon “face” and solid-gold weights. While the intrinsic quality of the watch justifies the price, I would have hoped the dial motif would be different. Even though the dial is fancier with the hand-finished chapter ring, the primary moti...

The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures Opens in L.A. SJX Watches
Rolex watches have long been Nov 29, 2021

The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures Opens in L.A.

Rolex watches have long been prominent in cinema, particularly of the American variety, never as a result of a product placements but instead a choice of the performer or director. Neither has the watchmaker recruited actors or actresses as ambassadors – it largely concentrates on sportspeople, musicians, environmentalist, and directors like James Cameron and Martin Scorsese – though it is the official sponsor of the Oscars. But now the watchmaker’s support of the film industry takes tangible form with the newly-opened Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles, which was constructed by the same organisation that’s responsible for the Oscars. Rolex is a “Founding Supporter” of the museum, resulting in the Rolex Gallery on the building’s third level. According to Rolex, the space is dedicated to the “many aspects of moviemaking – technology, artists, history and social impact” and includes the “Paul Newman Paul Newman”, the Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 owned by the late American actor that sold for a record US$17.52 million in 2017. But in typical Rolex fashion – which means discretion to the point of secrecy – the watchmaker is nowhere to be found on the list of “Founding Supporters” of the museum. But there is a single “Anonymous” donor in the category of US$10-20 million donations, alongside Dalian Wanda Group, Steven Spielberg, and The Walt Disney Company. The art of cinema Located in Los Angeles, the Academy Museum is the first o...

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” Eternity Edition SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils Nov 27, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” Eternity Edition

Most famous for the triple-golden bridge tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux is paying tribute to that 19th century invention the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” Eternity Edition, which arrives just in time for its 230th anniversary. The latest La Esmeralda Tourbillon is strikingly different from its predecessors – clearly no expense was spared in its decoration. Lavishly hand-engraved and enamelled – front and back and even on the sides of the case – the La Esmeralda even incorporates a novel movement finishing technique known as concave anglage on its gold bridges. The original La Esmeralda was a late-19th century pocket watch sold by a Mexican retailer of the same name Initial thoughts Girard-Perregaux has reinterpreted the triple bridge constructions in many different ways, resulting in a large family of “bridge” watches that includes an ultra-modern example with “flying” bridges and even one without a tourbillon at all. Still the La Esmeralda manages to stand out – by a large margin – because it’s truly exquisite. The decoration is magnificent, while also being faithful to the original with its equestrian theme. In fact, it surpasses the one-off La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” made in 2018, both in terms of style and artisanal quality. Even from a distance, the La Esmeralda is clearly different from past triple-bridge models, though the traditional arrow-shaped bridges remain obvious. The dial features two golden horses, each replac...

Following his Watchbox investment, 5 pieces that show Michael Jordan is a genuine watch lover Time+Tide
Nov 24, 2021

Following his Watchbox investment, 5 pieces that show Michael Jordan is a genuine watch lover

News broke yesterday that Michael Jordan has invested in WatchBox, the trading site that has just raised $165 million USD in its latest round of financing. But as you might expect from a guy with a net worth estimated at $1.6 billion USD, the basketball legend has an impressive watch box of his own. Judging by … ContinuedThe post Following his Watchbox investment, 5 pieces that show Michael Jordan is a genuine watch lover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: A. Lange & Söhne ‘Exceptional Masterpieces’ in Singapore SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 21, 2021

Exhibition: A. Lange & Söhne ‘Exceptional Masterpieces’ in Singapore

After a pandemic-induced hiatus, A. Lange & Söhne is staging its first exhibition in Singapore since 2019. Taking place at the National Gallery Singapore, a historical building that was once the country’s supreme court, Exceptional Masterpieces happens from December 1-5, with public entry starting on December 3 (though registration is required). “This exhibition, as well as the rare and special watches on display, will allow those who might not know us well to have a better understanding of the brand,” explains Charles Langlois, Managing Director for South East Asia and Australia. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Alongside displays explaining many of the artisanal techniques employed by the brand to decorate and embellish its watches, the exhibition includes a few 19th century Lange pocket watches that illustrate the origins of the brand. But the highlight for most enthusiasts will be the 30 limited edition Lange wristwatches on show. Segmented into three themes – Honey Gold, Lumen, and Handwerkskunst – the wristwatch display is a stellar line up of some of the most desirable Lange wristwatches. The Tourbograph and 1815 Moon Phase from the 165th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange” set The Tourbograph prototype with an undecorated movement Almost every model within each series will be on display, including the 175th anniversary Honey Gold trio launched last year and the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour Le Merite” Handwerksu...

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3448 Nov 20, 2021

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong

Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...

HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert” Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Nov 13, 2021

HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert”

IWC have the pilot’s watch game sussed out and their Top Gun series are among the toughest of the bunch, with a no-holds barred approach to the watch as a vital flight instrument. You might recognise a whiff of nostalgia in the large sword hands and classic onion crown big enough to twiddle with proper … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson spotted wearing an IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar at the premiere of Netflix’s “Red Notice” Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Nov 10, 2021

Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson spotted wearing an IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar at the premiere of Netflix’s “Red Notice”

When a film has three huge Hollywood names on its marquee, you know a lot of eyeballs will be tuning in. Reportedly Netflix’s highest budget film to date, the $200m USD production Red Notice stars Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, Ryan Reynolds, and Gal Gadot and is jam-packed with action sequences to provide viewers with some … ContinuedThe post Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson spotted wearing an IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar at the premiere of Netflix’s “Red Notice” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

Only Watch 2021: Independent Watchmaking Highlights SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue Nov 3, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Independent Watchmaking Highlights

The top lots amongst independent watchmakers at Only Watch 2021 are no doubt the F.P. Journe FFC Blue and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II, but they will cost six or seven figures. But half of the participants at Only Watch are independent watchmakers, so there are a few more interesting examples of the genre, which might possibly be reasonably affordable. We round up five notable watches amongst the “indies”, ranging from the quirky and fascinating Urwerk that’s an upgraded example of the brand’s earliest watch to the stunningly engine-turned Andersen Genève Quotidiana. Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” Perhaps the avant-garde independent watchmaker, Urwerk is best known for revolutionising the presentation of time, having invented time displays using satellite cubes on a carousel and prisms in cylinders. But the brand’s creation for Only Watch 2021 looks nothing like its recent work, because it’s a quarter-century old, an artefact from the brand’s start-up days. The UR-102 “Gaïa” is a prototype of one of the brand’s earliest models – it is actually a vintage Urwerk – but dressed up smartly for the occasion, with a special case back decoration that signifies the brand’s success. The platinum case back is adorned with a sparkling, deep blue emblem that alludes to the Gaïa Prize, which Urwerk’s founders won in 2020 That said, being an Urwerk, the time display is far from rudimentary. While neither a cube nor a prism, it is still a wond...