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Big Bang Hublot

Hublot's 2005 "Art of Fusion" chronograph that reshaped 21st-century luxury.

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond Worn & Wound
Jul 18, 2024

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond

If you choose to, it’s really easy to look around the watch industry and throw up your hands in frustration that there are no new ideas. Even as we move through a period of what many hardcore enthusiasts agree is a new Golden Age of inventiveness in the affordable watch space, there’s a lot of evidence that many are playing it safe. Brands both big and small, at all price points, tend to revert to proven formulas that they know will work for them. The idea, after all, is to sell watches, so you can’t really blame anyone for deciding to lean on past performance in the hopes that it will predict future success. But that makes a brand like Lebond that much more interesting. They’re not leaning on any proven formulas, and not only are they trying something genuinely different, but brand owner Asier Mateo is actually relinquishing control of the design of each piece year in and year out.  I would describe Lebond as a fairly high concept and niche brand. The style of these watches will not appeal to everyone, and collectors would seem to benefit from a long view of the brand – it will all make a lot more sense in five, ten, or twenty years, if all goes according to plan. The idea is relatively simple: each year, Lebond releases a new watch designed by a different well known architect. Mateo is an architect himself, and founded the brand as a vehicle to expose watch lovers to the work of the world’s most talented architects. Of course, he’s also aiming these watche...

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More Fratello
TAG Heuer Breitling Cartier Jul 10, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More

We are still in the midst of the biggest small-sized revival of the decade, so surely all the bargains have already been snapped up? With patience, you’ll find hidden gems from the late ’90s to the end of the ’00s. But with many of these having been big-watch years, finding small but tough neo-vintage dive […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Unveils Jul 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection Worn & Wound
Baltic Adds New Watches Jul 4, 2024

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection

Three years after the debut of the MR01, Baltic has updated their popular micro-rotor movement powered dress watch line in a big way. The new MR Roulette collection, which debuts today, offers a new take on the platform with a slightly more casual, sector dial inspired layout. Coming on the heels of the Prismic collection, a series of watches that drew intense reactions in all directions, the MR Roulette feels like a return to the aesthetic that made Baltic the brand they are today, with modest vintage cues, a mixing of textures, and an enticing price point.  The MR Roulette is built on the same foundation of previous micro-rotor powered watches in Baltic’s catalog. It has a 36mm steel case with a flat, vertically brushed bezel and lugs that are brushed in a complementary circular pattern. The case is accented with tasteful polishing on the bezel wall, and measures an easy to wear 44mm from lug to lug. If you’ve ever tried on the original MR01, you know that this case truly wears like a vintage watch, not only its proportions, but it has a light and airy quality to it as well. It measures just 9.9mm tall, but feels thinner because nearly 2mm of that height is taken up by the domed hesalite crystal.  The new dials are available in salmon, silver, blue, and black variants. All but the black feature a grained background paired with two brushed sectors: an interior track for the hours, and an exterior track for the minutes. The running seconds subdial is off-center, cove...

Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence Fratello
Jul 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence

This review was tough as this Zelos made a big impact with its materials and slim, demure case. Going hands-on with the Zelos Nova 37mm Tantalum has been a pleasure regardless of value, brand image, and size, so staying objective was quite challenging. First impressions from press shots left me with an image of too […] Visit Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence to read the full article.

Micro-Brand Digest: Exciting New Sports Watches, a Canadian Brand Inspired by Architecture, and a Former Modder Hits Kickstarter Worn & Wound
Jun 28, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: Exciting New Sports Watches, a Canadian Brand Inspired by Architecture, and a Former Modder Hits Kickstarter

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Monarte Watches Monarte Watches founder Domen faced a dilemma. He wanted a durable dive watch that also had a dressy look so he could wear it to work or for a night out, not just for sports and weekends. After conducting his research, he discovered that the only “hybrid” watches that truly met the requirements were extremely expensive. As a result, he reached out to the online watch community to gather their input and preferences. From this collective effort, he believes he has devised a solution, the Monarte Squid, a highly versatile and capable dive watch adorned with numerous little details that enthusiasts adore. Let us get the elephant in the room out of the way, shall we? Only the original guilloché dial was crafted by hand-operated lathe, and all subsequent dials were CNC machined to replicate it as closely as possible. This cost-saving manufacturing process in no way diminishes their ornateness or splendor. You would be hard-pressed to find more i...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil Jun 26, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection

Sometimes the little moments inform our collecting more than the big ones. A big moment might be the first time Dad trusted you to wear his watch. While formative, there’d be a lot more two-tone bracelets on Instagram if those moments drove purchasing decisions. My “big moment” came on my seventh birthday. After weeks of begging for a digital watch, I opened a package to be greeted by black resin and the coolest digital screen I’d ever laid eyes on. The subsequent victory lap through the kitchen resulted in a trip to urgent care. Though I still have the scar to remember the watch that unleashed the horological nerd within me, my watchbox is currently void of a single digital watch. On the contrary, little moments are constantly influencing how I think about and consume watches. These are often as simple as offhand remarks I hear at a meetup or a comment I read on Reddit. One of these little moments came while I was listening to Rico’s Watches Podcast a couple years ago. A RedBar chapter head was the week’s guest, and he made some brief, unflattering remarks about Raymond Weil. Sharing a story of buyer’s remorse, he cited a lack of demand on the secondary market and a design language that was an amalgamation of other brands rather than something original. These quick quips stuck with me. As a newer collector, I’d already discerned that anything with “mall watch” vibes might not receive the nod of approval from my enthusiast peers. And, having personally ...

Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition Fratello
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Jun 26, 2024

Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition

One fantastic aspect of living in London is that big events happen here. Museums, auction houses, and boutiques put on amazing displays for locals and visitors. Best of all, most of these shows are free and take place in lovely locations. Roughly three weeks ago, I had the opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe Rare […] Visit Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition to read the full article.

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 54 Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

Longines Conquest 38mm Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jun 19, 2024

Longines Conquest 38mm Review

Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few.  In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...

Buying A Watch As A Gift - What Would You Get? Fratello
Jun 16, 2024

Buying A Watch As A Gift - What Would You Get?

Buying a watch for oneself is often a big decision and not necessarily made quickly. I don’t know about you, but I have often agonized over a purchase. I’ve read reviews, researched people’s impressions of a watch through forums, and done about as much reading as one could without becoming obsessive. Buying a watch as […] Visit Buying A Watch As A Gift - What Would You Get? to read the full article.

Reissue Overload - Why Do Watch Brands Keep Looking To The Past For Good Design? Fratello
Jun 13, 2024

Reissue Overload - Why Do Watch Brands Keep Looking To The Past For Good Design?

Watchmaking is a field steeped in tradition. Big brands pride themselves on boasting centuries of heritage. At the same time, the mechanical watch is, largely, declared technically obsolete in 2024. So it seems only natural that watch brands look to the past for design inspiration. Almost every major brand now has one or several reissue […] Visit Reissue Overload - Why Do Watch Brands Keep Looking To The Past For Good Design? to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Vs. Omega Speedmaster Professional In Steel And Gold Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional Jun 9, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Vs. Omega Speedmaster Professional In Steel And Gold

Sunday is here, and you know that means: it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! But it’s not just any showdown this week. We decided to bring out the big guns for a battle that will surely get people talking. We selected the brand-new Omega Speedmaster Professional in steel and gold for this week’s faceoff. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Vs. Omega Speedmaster Professional In Steel And Gold to read the full article.

Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115 Fratello
Seiko SJE109 SJE111 SJE113 Jun 7, 2024

Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115

When King Seiko watches returned to the scene a few years ago, they did so with the instantly recognizable KSK case shape. Of course, we always knew more shapes would follow at some point, and here they are! I am a big fan of the 2022 release, and the SPB281 was my daily watch for […] Visit Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115 to read the full article.

A Major Move for Holthinrichs: the Signature Collection Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Jun 5, 2024

A Major Move for Holthinrichs: the Signature Collection

Holthinrichs Watches has been a personal favorite brand of mine since I first encountered them shortly after their launch in 2016. They have always had a completely unique design language and a somewhat uncompromising vision, diving deeper and deeper into their “Horlogerie Brut” philosophy (working with pure metals and creating color through galvanic plating, anodization, or natural patination) with every passing release. A big part of their business model since the inception of the brand has been creating custom pieces for clients, a process that has proven to be expensive and time consuming, especially on complex platforms like the Deconstructed, a watch that pushes their manufacturing capabilities to their limits. As the brand’s ambitions have grown, the prices have come up as well, and for many of us the thought of owning a Holthinrichs at the $5,000-$6,000 level has gradually faded. But a new series from the brand, the Signature line, has put them back in play for value oriented enthusiasts and collectors without sacrificing the signature (get it?) Holthinrichs aesthetic. It’s one of the most exciting releases of the year.  There are multiple watches within the new Signature collection to discuss, but they all share a common principle, and it comes down to the case and the way these watches are made. Holthinrichs, since their founding, has been a pioneer in 3D printed cases, which allowed for some of their more avant-garde designs to be more easily realized, ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramic Vs. Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition Fratello
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Jun 2, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramic Vs. Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition

At the end of August, the official opening of the 37th America’s Cup will take place in Barcelona. Six sailing teams will compete against each other, and a few of them are backed by big names in the watch industry. Today, we’ll put two of those brands up against each other - Panerai and Tudor. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramic Vs. Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition to read the full article.

Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW Fratello
VPC Type 37HW It has May 30, 2024

Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW

It has been a while since the last episode of Building A Watch Brand. In fact, that was a full month before the big launch, which took place on March 7th. As you may have gathered elsewhere, the VPC Type 37HW presale was a success, meeting the threshold number of sales over the first weekend. […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry Fratello
May 30, 2024

Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry

Welcome to the latest episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Nacho is joined by RJ and Lex to discuss their thoughts on a hype-hungry watch industry. Lately, more than ever before, it seems that big brands within the watch industry are doing their best to remain relevant by chasing hype. We saw the natural hype […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry to read the full article.

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Atwood, their Highly Anticipated New Chronograph Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar May 23, 2024

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Atwood, their Highly Anticipated New Chronograph

For nearly a decade, Chase Fancher and his team at Oak & Oscar, along with their partners, have not only been creating great and sporty timepieces, but they have also been creating a community. To them, the people that purchase their watches are not customers, they are owners. As such, the community has been asking for a new Oak & Oscar chronograph for quite some time. Especially since their Jackson Big-Eye was discontinued. The Jackson, you’ll recall, was a 40mm x 14mm 30-minute chronograph, with flyback function, and it housed a manual wind Eterna Caliber 39 movement. The community’s prayers have now been answered with the new Oak & Oscar Atwood. Just like its predecessor, it is also a proper Flyback chronograph, but this one can time intervals up to 12-hours. Instead of the Eterna caliber 39, it houses an AMT5100M caliber, which is a product of Sellita’s high-end skunkworks AMT division. It is a 23 jeweled, manually wound chronograph with a 58-hour power-reserve, and with the crisp, tactile satisfaction of its blued column wheel you’ll find excuses to time anything. You will also find all the usual Oak & Oscar refinements, including a sandwich dial, a signature high-contrast extra-long chrono seconds hand, and each subdial features subtle yet bright hints of orange that increase the legibility of the timing function. There is also a subtle nod to their first chronograph, which includes a wrapped tachymeter scale along the rehaut that goes to 54 units. As they li...

F.P. Journe’s Last-Ever Limited Edition – Chronographe FB SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s Last-Ever Limited Edition May 23, 2024

F.P. Journe’s Last-Ever Limited Edition – Chronographe FB

To mark 20 years of its first boutique, and also 20 years of limited editions, F.P. Journe has created its final limited edition of any sort. Limited to 200 pieces, the F.P. Journe Chronographe FB is a flyback chronograph with big date that’s powered by the manual-wind cal. 1518.2. Like past boutique anniversary editions, this has a titanium case with pink gold accents. Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic attributes, the Chronographe FB scores well on all counts. It is a good looking watch that is priced well. The FB doesn’t depart from the established aesthetic for boutique editions, which is a good thing since the titanium-and-gold combination is appealing. The watch is classical F.P. Journe in terms of dimensions at 40 mm wide and just over 10 mm high, which makes it elegantly slim. Styling aside, the FB is also notable as it is equipped with a new calibre. Few brands design new movements for a small-run limited edition. Admittedly the cal. 1518.2 inside is based on the current split-seconds movement, but it is still a new, different construction. Technically, the movement is not as much of an achievement as say the FFC or Vagabondage III, but it is executed well, and the watch is priced right for the complication. As is typical for majority of F.P. Journe watches, the Chronographe FB is reasonably priced at retail, just CHF90,000 before taxes. Accessibility, rather than affordability, is instead the problem. That’s true despite the 200 piece run is bigger than...

First Look – Military Gear for the Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS & Diver X Skeleton OPS Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS & May 23, 2024

First Look – Military Gear for the Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS & Diver X Skeleton OPS

Sustainability is a big trend in watchmaking today as brands jump on the bandwagon of environmentally friendly products. Some, like Chopard, ensure the sustainable source of their gold, while others look to innovative recycled materials with a lower carbon footprint. As a brand with legitimate and historical maritime ties, Ulysse Nardin’s environmental focus is the […]

Introducing – The Staggering Beauty of the Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection 2024 Monochrome
Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection May 22, 2024

Introducing – The Staggering Beauty of the Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection 2024

Bulgari celebrates Rome, la città eterna, with a spellbinding collection of high jewellery watches congregated in the 2024 “Aeterna” collection. This year also marks Bulgari’s grand 140th anniversary. To celebrate, creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa brings out the big guns with some of the most extraordinary timepieces dripping with the brand’s signature coloured gemstones and his […]

Finding Futurism For Less Than €3,000 - 10 Takes On Modernity From SpaceOne, G-Shock , Kollokium, Behrens, And More Fratello
Behrens May 20, 2024

Finding Futurism For Less Than €3,000 - 10 Takes On Modernity From SpaceOne, G-Shock , Kollokium, Behrens, And More

Retro is still surfing a big wave of popularity, which is the unassailable truth. Though I often start articles by pondering whether or not we’ve reached peak vintage love, it’s still here, and I have nothing against it. But if you want something different, how about some futurism for less than €3,000? Sure, I love […] Visit Finding Futurism For Less Than €3,000 - 10 Takes On Modernity From SpaceOne, G-Shock , Kollokium, Behrens, And More to read the full article.

We’re giving away two pizza watches to celebrate 200k followers Time+Tide
May 19, 2024

We’re giving away two pizza watches to celebrate 200k followers

You read that right. We are going to be giving away two of our Time+Tide x Studio Underd0g ‘Hand Delivered’ Pizza watches to one lucky follower. This is all to celebrate us reaching 200,000 followers on Instagram. This is a big milestone for us as our community is a big reason for why we do … ContinuedThe post We’re giving away two pizza watches to celebrate 200k followers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.