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Review: Bovet Virtuoso V in a new salmon dial
Bovet continues to strengthen their Virtoso V lineup with a new model with salmon dial. Not a totally new model, but a refresh in titanium with a new dial.
Results for Titanium Grade 2 vs Grade 5
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SJX Watches
Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001
On very rare occasions does Grand Seiko create unique versions of its watches. But it has done so with a unique version of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon – the one-off reference SLGT001 – that will go under the hammer at Phillips’ New York auction December 11, with some proceeds from the sale going to a children’s charity. Anyone who read our earlier in-depth, two-part story on the Kodo (part I covers the watch and part II its technical features) will understand the the impressive technical achievement that is its movement. The SLGT001 has all of that, but in a unique execution specifically for the auction. Engraved “Unique Piece No. 1/1” on the back, the SLGT001 is instantly recognisable as a one-off. While the standard version of the model has a monochromatic grey palette, the SLGT001 is set apart by its colour: heat-blued and gilded components against rhodium-plated bridges. Most of the screws are blued steel, while the three-armed tourbillon carriage is blued titanium. And the SLGT001 is also distinguished by its case material. Unlike the standard model that has a case made up of both titanium and platinum, this is entirely in Brilliant Hard Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that boasts a brighter, more silvery hue than most titanium alloys. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the SLGT001 will go to the Children’s Heart Foundation. Besides benefiting a good cause, the winning bidder will also get a trip to Japan to meet the team behind...
Revolution
Up Close with the Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’
We are proud to present our first collaboration with Angelus, a salmon grené dial version of the sublime Chronodate, which we are calling ‘Angels’ Share’. The Chronodate is a lesson in balanced design, with an angular titanium case and a multi-textured, soft grené finish to the dial. The mesmerising Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ […]
Hodinkee
Entry Level: A Quick Coast-To-Coast Trip With Tutima's Most Affordable Offering
The Tutima M2 Coastline nods to the brand's military ties with a modern titanium field watch.
Quill & Pad
The Greatest Watch (Bracelet) Story Ever Told. Spoiler Alert: Lange Datograph Lumen Upgrade, What Could Possibly Go Wrong? – Reprise
CB thought it was a great idea to add a legendary platinum bracelet to his A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen. At first it looked like it would be easy, but then there were a few unforeseen "issues." GaryG tells the up-and-down story of one man's search (and willingness to fight) for his dream grail.
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Is gold popular? - ROLEX Submariner Steel Vs Gold
SJX Watches
Boldr Introduces the Venture Singularity in Ultra-Black
Founded by a group of watch enthusiasts from Singapore and Malaysia, Boldr Supply Co. first got off the ground on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter like many of its peers. Now best known for its affordable sports watches, the brand’s latest has a titanium case containing Seiko movement, but the highlight is something else, or more specifically, nothing else. The Venture Singularity has a dial of infinite blackness thanks to a coating of Musou Black, which absorbs 99.4% of incident light. Made by a Japanese company, Musou Black is similar to better known Vantablack in being blacker than black. Initial thoughts Boldr nails it again with another affordable and fun watch, but the Singularity stands out for its value proposition, one that’s arguably better than Boldr’s other offerings. As watches with ultra-black dial go, this has little competition – comparable watches usually cost much, much more. Boldr isn’t the first microbrand offering such a dial at a modest price but the Singularity is an unusually complete package with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, along with a useful 200 m water resistance. Granted, the Singularity still looks and feels like it price aside from the dial, but it is something novel amongst watches that are very accessible. Priced at US$445, the Singularity unsurprisingly sold out quickly when the first batch went on sale. But it’s not a limited edition and pre-orders for the second batch are now open with delivery starting in...
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Deepsea Challenge Ref. 126067 Rated to 11,000 Metres
In a surprising off-season debut, Rolex has debuted the record-setting Deepsea Challenge. Evolved from the experimental dive watch of the same name presented in 2012, the Deepsea Challenge is the first serially-produced Rolex wristwatch in titanium. And its rating of 11,000 m, or 36,090 ft, means it clinches the title of the deepest-rated dive watch ever. Initial thoughts Conceived as “the ultimate watch of the deep”, the Deepsea Challenge has nevertheless “been crafted with everyday use in mind”. In other words it’s gigantic at 50 mm in diameter and over 20 mm thick, but wearable because both the case and bracelet are titanium, making it relatively lightweight. It is tempting to imagine Rolex will roll out other titanium watches, though I expect that won’t happen since the use of the alloy for the Deepsea Challenge is primarily for lightness, something less important for conventionally-sized Rolex watches. As with other Rolex sports watches the technology behind the watch is impressive – in fact the technology within the watch makes it one of the most interesting Rolex sports watches – but it also incorporates details that enthusiasts will appreciate like the chamfered lugs that bring to mind vintage Rolex cases. In short, it’s a little over the top but extremely cool. It’s somewhat pricey at abut 70% more expensive than the standard Deepsea, but arguably worth it for something that is essentially an experimental watch refined into something wearable...
Time+Tide
The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s
“Anticipation, I suppose, sometimes exceeds realisation,” Amelia Earhart once said. Ever since the final swan song of the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, which, at times felt like a never-ending Elton John farewell tour, the rumour mill instantly began swirling. Everybody had predictions – a 6711 in titanium perhaps, or a return to a two-handed … ContinuedThe post The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore
Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...
Time+Tide
How to use your analog watch as a compass
With the release of the titanium beast that is the Apple Watch Ultra, many have become interested in the idea of a tool watch. That rough and tumble piece that can get you through anything. However, much in the same way collectors love divers but rarely go diving, most tool watches will rarely touch their … ContinuedThe post How to use your analog watch as a compass appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Best Seiko Divers Under $500 for 2021: Samurai vs Monster (SRPB51 & SRPD25) Watch
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New: Zenith DEFY Extreme E – Copper X Prix Edition
Zenith continues to support the Extreme E electric rally race with a new 20 piece limited edition DEFY Extreme E Copper X Prix in carbon fibre and titanium with earthy tones and the El Primero 9004 movement. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New: Zenith DEFY Extreme E – Copper X Prix Edition TheRead More
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue
As one of the world’s biggest watch retailers, Bucherer has long enjoyed unique relationships with leading watchmakers. Starting in 2016, Bucherer commissioned a series of special editions from a diversity of brands, including the well-known Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue. Girard-Perregaux (GP) is the latest marque to create a special run for the Swiss retailer with the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. This variant of GP’s trademark complication once again is inspired by the retailer’s corporate colour: instead of a flat black in the standard version of the watch, the titanium bridges of the movement are highlighted in dark blue. Initial thoughts As with most of the Bucherer’s other editions, the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is a change in livery, but one that transforms the feel of the watch. Going from a muted black to a vibrant blue is a simple tweak, but one that adds to the visual appeal by making the architecture of the movement more apparent. The blue treatment makes the bridges stand out and emphasise their graceful, arched form, a quality that is less obvious in the standard version because of its near-monochromatic finish. The standard version with its black bridges All that makes for a contemporary look that’s more striking, a perfect fit for a calibre that’s essentially an ultra-modern take on a concept dating to 1860. At the same time, the modern yet restrained aesthetic is appropriate given Bucherer’s status as ...
Deployant
New Release: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar
This new perpetual calendar is fitted with a leather strap secured by a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second grey fabric strap. Vividly illustrating the technical and aesthetic expertise of the Manufacture, this new Reference DB25sQP marks its entry into the perpetual calendar collection and will be limited to a single production run of 15 units per year.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe
Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe “Cortina Watch”
Created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch, which is also marking the occasion with a special Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary is an elegantly different take on Blancpain’s vintage-inspired dive watch. With a titanium case matched with a bezel and crown in fade-resistant Sedna gold, the Cortina edition dresses up the functional style of the ordinarily no-frills Bathyscaphe. Originally launched in 2013 as the entry-level – and most compact – model in the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe was previously only available in single materials, making this two-tone version a first. In fact, the Bathyscaphe Cortina the first Blancpain dive watch with a bi-metal case, but it’ll probably not be the last since the combination is appealing. The hands and hour indices are also 18k Sedna gold Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is a handsome watch that has good proportions. It doesn’t feel as large as it measures and wears well. And it is especially lightweight in titanium, so it sits easily on the wrist. In its original variants the Bathyscaphe is muted (in either the steel, ceramic, or titanium versions), or expensive and shiny (in Sedna gold). The Cortina edition is a useful variation on the theme that’s still restrained, but with a little bit of shine. The Sedna gold accents work especially well on the watch because of its retro style. They bring to mind vintage dive watches with “gilt” dials. Admit...
Video
Timex Expedition North - 4 New Field Watches With Sapphire - Mechanical - Solar - Quartz Great Price
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Review: the new Bovet 1822 Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two
Our hands-on, detailed review of the new Bover 1822 Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two in a sand blasted titanium case and Super-Luminova dial.
Hodinkee
The Momentum Atlas Automatic Is Lightweight And Field Ready
Thrifty titanium timekeeping.
Quill & Pad
Tutima M2 Seven Seas Signal Orange And Signal Yellow: Serious Diver’s Watches With Panache – Reprise
The three-hand Tutima M2 Seven Seas was first introduced at Baselworld 2016, and the newest interpretation of this diver’s watch is brightened up by Signal Yellow and Signal Orange dials housed in 44 mm brushed titanium cases and bracelets. Nancy Olson takes a deep dive.
SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver 200m “Green Anaconda”
Introduced just last year, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m is an distinctive and compelling “tool” watch with an over-the-top style and impressive specs that include a hardened titanium case and magnetism-resistant movement. Now the watch returns in even more striking livery in a limited edition that will be available only in Asia. Dressed in green and gold, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m Asia Limited Edition “Green Anaconda” has a hobnailed dial and bezel, while the case, bracelet, and bezel are all black coated. Initial thoughts The original model was easy to like, especially if you like chunky dive watches. Its technical features are amongst the best in at its price segment, while the slightly exaggerated styling also helps it stand out in the crowded segment of affordable dive watches. What the first version lacked, however, was flair. Thought the watch was big and hard to miss, it was dressed almost entirely in shades of grey, which felt too restrained for the size and design. The “Green Anaconda” certainly took that lesson to heart with its striking colours that leave the hobnail patterning seem even more obvious than before. The colours and textures are brought out even more by the contrast with the black-coated case and bracelet. They are finished in diamond-like carbon (DLC), resulting in a charcoal finish that’s slightly glossy. The dark finish also makes the watch look smaller than it is, which is useful given its 46 mm diameter. With...
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture
Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...
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Cheap Seiko vs Expensive Grand Seiko
SJX Watches
Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”
One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...
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New faces for the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet
Blancpain extends their lineup to the Fifty Fathoms collection with the new Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet models - one in red gold and another in titanium.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Collection offers a fresh take on a luxury sportswatch
Cvstos don’t pop up on the radar of your average watch collector often, but the new collection of Cvstos Metropolitan PS watches is aiming to change that. The idea of a luxury microbrand isn’t all that crazy, and Cvstos aim to hone in on what customers really want from their avant-garde, high-end sports watches. The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Collection offers a fresh take on a luxury sportswatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces the Hakuto-R GPS Chronograph
Having debuted the world’s first titanium wristwatch in 1970 – it was the X-8 Chronometer with a case of nearly pure titanium – Citizen now boasts some 50 years of experience with the lightweight metal. Now the brand has taken its materials expertise into outer space, literally. Citizen supplies its proprietary Super Titanium alloy to ispace, a Japanese company that specialises in robotic spacecraft technology for landers and rovers. Ispace utilises Super Titanium for the legs of the lunar lander slated to launch around the end of 2022. Known as Hakuto-R, the ispace lunar programme now as its own commemorative watch, the Citizen Hakuto-R Collaboration Satellite Wave GPS F950. Its case is naturally Super Titanium but some components are made of “Recrystallised Titanium”, a unique, textured alloy that evokes the Moon’s surface. Initial thoughts Like many high-end quartz watches, the Hakuto-R is an electronic grand complication – it features a perpetual calendar, world time, a 1/20th of a second chronograph, and then some. Though this isn’t the first Hakuto-R collaboration, it is the most appealing in terms of aesthetics. It looks the part for a high-end quartz watch – even without the GPS sync it will run within five seconds a month. It has busy, complex aesthetics entirely appropriate for a watch packed with various cutting-edge features. But like Citizen’s other high-end electronic watches, also excellent fit and finish on the external components suc...
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New and reviewed: G-SHOCK GMW-B5000TVB Virtual World
G-SHOCK announces the release of GMW-B5000TVB Virtual World, a new addition to the square full-metal 5000 series in titanium. Here is our hands-on review.
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