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History, friends, and some great watches in York, Pennsylvania
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Hodinkee
History, friends, and some great watches in York, Pennsylvania
Monochrome
Synonymous with luxury fountain pens, Montblanc expanded its portfolio to include watches in 1997, with aesthetics inspired by its famous Meisterstück pens. Intent on demonstrating its watchmaking credentials, Montblanc acquired the legendary Minerva manufacture and released the Nicolas Rieussec chronograph in 2007. An unusual chronograph with revolving registers and a fascinating history, the Nicolas Rieussec […]
Time+Tide
Diver's watches are arguably the most saturated and popular wristwatch category, but what really is a true, proper dive watch?The post What is a dive watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Between 1885 and 1920, Elliot Cabot Lee (1854-1920) quietly built one of the world’s largest collections of very complicated watches, but unlike the famous rivals Henry Graves Jr. or James Ward Packard, both of whom favoured Swiss watches (and primarily Patek Philippe), Lee was a devotee of English watchmaking during its heyday. Many remarkable watches that were commissioned by Lee, or passed through his collection, have surfaced over the last few years, such as the J.W. Benson Supercomplication, the Dent Astronomical watch, or even J.P. Morgan’s pocket-planetarium, but with their provenance unknown. Most of Lee’s collection of pocket watches. Image – The National Jeweler 1922 A patrician collector Elliot Cabot Lee was born on April 16th, 1854 in Brookline, Massachusetts. Both of Lee’s parents hailed from Boston Brahmin families and were third cousins. His father, Henry Lee Jr., was a partner at investment bank Lee, Higginson & Company, where Lee also worked, though only briefly. His mother, Elizabeth Perkins Cabot, was the granddaughter of the extremely wealthy Thomas Handasyd Perkins – a slaver turned philanthropist. Lee graduated from Harvard with a law degree and passed the bar, though he seems to have practiced law little if at all. He was well-travelled and well-read, accumulating a notable book collection, according to the Brookline Historical society. Besides his watch collection, Lee also took an interest in the nascent automobile. He built a garage, o...
Time+Tide
An idiosyncratic shape and a retro-tastic dial (complete with pinion cap!) make this indie offering a love letter to the 1970s.The post Vintage vibes abound with the Ferro Time Master 70 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Monochrome
Without a doubt one of the best value propositions on the market, the Khaki Field Mechanical collection has grown drastically in recent years. Inspired by vintage field watches made by the company – the Hamilton “Hacked” watch – it combines cool military looks with a fair price and undeniable flair. In addition to the base […]
Quill & Pad
GaryG's first rule when it comes to collecting is to avoid setting too many exclusionary rules. With watches, I believe that it's the passion that separates collectors from investors and accumulators. Which brings him to another rule: deriving the full enjoyment from the things you own.
Fratello
Like many watch brands, TAG Heuer regularly produces limited or special editions. The difference, and advantage, however, is the brand’s history and involvement with top-tier motorsports. Legions of racers wore vintage Heuer watches during the golden age of racing in the 1960s. None, though, stand out quite like the Monaco. The groundbreaking square watch is […] Visit Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Kollokium has stood out from day one, and it comes down to its unique team and its approach to watchmaking.The post How Kollokium is making a point of difference in a crowded market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
We’re back at it again with another "alternatives" roundup for some of the most iconic watches in watchmaking history, and in this episode, we’re getting more quirky than we ever have before. Which is only fitting given today’s subject, which is one of the most subversive watch designs of all time: the illustrious Cartier Crash. Before I launch into some quick Cartier Crash history and then contemporary alternatives at multiple budgets, let’s establish some key design ingredients in the recipe at hand. Because I didn’t want to make you all eat up some AliExpress Cartier Crash phonies, and because the design is so iconic that most watchmakers haven’t really attempted their own imitations, I will be leaning into asymmetry or hints at surrealism here instead of more 1:1 design alternatives. Before I begin, I will say that the avant-garde era of the 1960s and '70s, before the big houses had such rigid design codes, is one of my favorites in watchmaking history. Here in the modern age, many brands seem less willing to experiment boldly, and really keep things, largely, safe. Still, there are some asymmetrical watch gems out there, and below, they will get a little time in the spotlight. I will warn you now that on the current market, prices for more bold watch designs run a little steep, so the budget I’m working around here is at a higher price point than I try to stick to (though I have thrown in some affordable options). But given the exorbitant prices of the...
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Worn & Wound
Baltic’s Hermétique feels like a little bit of a secret weapon to me. It’s riffing on vintage watches in a much more subtle way than many of the brand’s earlier releases, and has proven to be a great canvas for creative dial variations and is, honestly, one of the only bronze watches I actually like. When it was announced back in 2023, there was some grousing about the case size, but putting the watch on makes it clear that 37mm is exactly right for a watch in this style. It’s sleek (thanks in large part to the inset crown) and thin, and can be dressed up or dressed down – it’s just a very solid watch at a very easy to digest price point (check out Ed Jelley’s hands-on thoughts from the original launch right here). And while there’s a timeless, almost generic (in a good way) quality to the Hermétique, you can’t really fault Baltic for wanting to capitalize on the seemingly irrepressible desire of watch lovers to adorn their wrists with loud colors in the summer months. Hence, we have the new Hermétique Summer collection. These are watches that do exactly what it says on the tin. They’re the same Hermétiques we’ve become familiar with, but with dial colors that pop up when you search the #summerwatch hashtag on Instagram. Specifically, Baltic tells us they are drawing inspiration from the “California of the 70s.” Not being a Californian, nor alive in the 1970s, I can’t really speak to this personally, but as an evocation of a summery ideal,...
Time+Tide
Stunningly decorated, and sporting an aventurine grand feu enamel dial. The post Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Sidéral flying tourbillon is so good its price (upon request) hurts the soul appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Baltic Hermétique has been a bona fide hit since its introduction in 2023. Since then, the Besançon, France-based brand has added new models to the lineup, including additional colors and bronze-cased pieces. Today, and just in time for the warm-weather holidays, a collection of four Hermétique Summer watches has been announced. These brightly colored […] Visit Introducing: The New Baltic Hermétique Summer Collection to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
One look into the catalog of Casio and you’ll notice no shortage of fun and functional digital watches (and also digital pianos, calculators, and medical devices if that’s your thing). Besides maybe the dermatological imaging devices, Casio’s catalog has a lot of different products and the main theme running throughout is their playful nature and quirky features. I appreciate the fact that Casio looks to solve problems (like knowing when to fish, what the tides are, and what time it is in other locales) with interesting and unique displays. Sure, a lot of this can be done by wearing an Apple Watch, but to me, these purpose-built devices just have so much more character than the now ubiquitous Apple Watch. Another cool thing about them is the focus on value and affordability that make adding a Casio (or five) to your collection a great way to bring some fun back into watches. Today, we’re taking a look at five watches from Casio, each with their own fun feature sets that clock in at under fifty bucks a piece. Sure, they might not have the catchiest model names, but either way - let’s dig in. Casio Pop LF20W-8A Standout Features: Fun animations in a bio-based resin case. Casio’s Pop LF20W-8A features a bio-based resin case and plenty of features. Between the renewable case material and multi-year battery life, this economical and ecological watch is perfect for slapping on your wrist with minimal impact to the earth and your wrist (since it’s so light). I r...
Monochrome
Founded in 2017, Laventure is the project of a man named Clément Gaud. Despite achieving a degree of fame over the years, it is still a one-man show. Focused on genuine Swiss-made watches with an undeniable vintage flair and made for adventure (hence the name), Laventure has produced several watches under the Marine and Sous-Marine […]
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Worn & Wound
If you were to ask any of my coworkers or friends about my style when it comes to watches, the words “tactical,” “diver,” and “tool” would likely come to mind. It’s no secret that I have an affinity for watches with more utility than just telling time, and a good clicky bezel might be my favorite fidget toy of all time. As someone who has had a preference for black and olive drab colors for years, when I dove into watches, it seemed like black and sometimes blue were the only colors available, especially at the price range I considered spending on a watch. That said, as I’ve learned more about watches and discovered some interesting microbrands making bold and adventurous divers, I also realized that if I wanted something more colorful, I’d have a lot of options if I expanded my reach to non-diver sports watches. With the growing number of stealthy items in my collection, I’ve wanted to add something to my collection that you might describe as “flashy” to balance things out a bit. Working to break this mold that I’ve created for myself, I wound up coming across the Mandala Mk3 by Second Hour Watches, and thought that it might make an interesting addition to my collection of tactical and tool focused pieces. In fact, when I wore this watch home from the office for the first time, my girlfriend immediately remarked, “That isn’t a watch I’d expect you to wear, but I like it,” and that’s exactly the reaction I was hoping for. Before I dive i...
Fratello
The name might ring a bell, but it’s not what you think. Bedat and Beda’a are not the same. Bedat & Co is a Genevan watch brand “For Women of Character.” Beda’a is a London-based brand with Qatari roots, creating Swiss-made watches. Hader Al Suwaidi started his brand in 2016 to show that the Middle East […] Visit Hands-On With The Beda’a Eclipse II: A Star-Lit Celestial Evolution That’s Happening This Summer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Omega's new itty-bitty Aqua Terra isn't just a case of 'shrinking and pinking', with these models boasting new, impressive calibres.The post Omega guns for the ladies’ watch top spot with new 30mm Aqua Terra range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega’s latest Aqua Terra is a competent women’s watch with a brand-new calibre that is both compact and proficient. Equipped with the new cal. 8750/8751, the Aqua Terra 150M 30 mm launches with a healthy mix of metal variations and dials across 12 models that will surely expand in time. Initial Thoughts Despite scarce coverage in watch media, watches made for, and marketed to women are very important to the industry. And, women have rewarded brands that put in the effort with enormous success. The Lady-Datejust, for instance, is often rumored to be Rolex’s highest volume model. While Omega offered an Aqua Terra 30 mm in the past, the Constellation has arguably the brand’s champion in the segment for the last few years. The new Aqua Terra 30 mm might look similar to its predecessor, but it stands out for the new cal. 8750/8751 that is a Master Chronometer-certified movement. Building a movement that can consistently meet Master Chronometer standards, while being small and thin, is an achievement on its own. All else being equal, larger movements perform better than smaller ones; the difference is significant enough that the ISO 3159 chronometer standard that form the COSC testing standards has less stringent requirements for movements 20 mm and under. Options Omega’s watches are often, and fairly, criticized for being unnecessarily thick, but that isn’t the case here, thanks in part to the new caliber. All steel and two-tone models are 10.6 mm tall (10.7 mm for...
Worn & Wound
Ressence is one of my favorite independent watch brands for a number of reasons. Chief among them, of course, is the novel time telling system invented by the brand, which is unlike anything else in watchmaking. It’s an example of both mechanical ingenuity and a design triumph, and like others who have had a chance to experience it, I’m continually blown away by the intuitive layout of these watches and the creativity in rethinking something as basic as telling the time. Another reason Ressence has such a strong appeal is that this design language has proven to be incredibly flexible, something we’ve observed over the years as the brand has collaborated with a variety of partners on interesting limited edition projects. The Grail Watch release with Alain Silberstein remains a personal favorite, as does their Dubai Watch Week LE from a few years ago (a new limited edition celebrating the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi is also pretty great). A pair of new watches made in collaboration with the artist Daniel Engelberg might just be my favorite Ressence limited edition yet. We got a very quick preview of these watches when we met with Ressence at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, and were immediately taken with their bold color palettes and a design that really leans into the brand’s aesthetic while still being wholly unique works. Engelbert is a German artist and a quick look at his Instagram feed reveals his interest in color and shape, and these dials immediat...
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Speedmaster Reduced was released back in 1988, intended as a smaller and more affordable cousin of the Speedmaster Professional. The Speedmaster Reduced shares most of the same design codes as the Moonwatch but it is undoubtedly one of the more divisive watches out there, especially for those Speedy purists who see it as an imposter that should never have been manufactured. I would imagine that sales were fairly robust, considering how many of these are available on the secondary market and the fact that it was produced from 1988 all the way to 2009. Speedmaster Reduced Case & Bracelet Considering this is called the Speedmaster Reduced, it should be no surprise that the case is indeed smaller than the 42mm Speedmaster Professional (which we did a comprehensive guide to here). Done in stainless steel measuring 39mm wide and 12mm thick with a very compact lug-to-lug height of 45mm compared to the Speedy Pro’s 47.5mm. One of the funny tradeoffs that you get from using an automatic movement instead of a manually wound one is a thicker case, so even with the reduced case size, the 12mm thickness is only about a millimeter slimmer than the Pro. Still, the compact proportions make for an easier wear for those with smaller wrists. The Speedmaster Reduced has 30 meters of water resistance, which is shy of the 50 meters of the Speedy Pro, but I think both require quite a bit of caution with anything more than a splash. The familiar tachymeter bezel is done in aluminum, w...
Fratello
We all know Benoît Mintiens, founder of Ressence, doesn’t shy away from using multiple colors on his user-friendly spherical watches. The brand’s minimalist Type 8, however, has always had a more modest, single-color design - until now. In collaboration with German painter and sculptor Daniel Engelberg, Ressence presents us with the Type 8 DE1 in […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Limited Art Watch Type 8 × Daniel Engelberg to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s hard not to focus on price these days. The world has gotten more expensive over the last few years, and watches have not been immune to price hikes. Anyone following watch media in 2025 would be able to tell you that, and this site has not been immune. It’s the topic of the day in a big way, and ignoring it altogether would be a mistake on all fronts. Still, if you look back at the 13 years since Worn & Wound has been around, the narrative arc in that time isn’t about rising prices, it’s about value. In the more than a decade since Worn & Wound first came online, watchmaking has been dramatically democratized. Value has, in large part, been the name of the game, and increased access to complications, techniques, and materials has largely been a big part of what has kept me so interested in watches on a deep level - I mean, the idea that anyone complaining that a sub-$1000 GMT watch only had a caller movement would have been anathema to any collector just 10 years ago. Most of the value conversation in recent years has been focused on affordable watches, but a remarkable reality is that there is also value to be had if you take a step up. Brands at all scales have noticeably stepped up the quality of their movements, and while I’d never consider calling a 17,200 CHF watch anything but expensive, it’s hard to ignore that Zeitwinkel is offering (or at least trying to offer) something really special at a price that would have been hard to imagine not that l...
Time+Tide
The new Breitling Top Time B31 distills the model down to time and date essentials, with colourful contrast dials and a new 78-hour calibre.The post The Breitling Top Time B31 could be the top dog under US$6,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
As we’ve discussed at length here recently, one of our favorite things about Ming is their ability to innovate across price points. Recent watches in the 37 series, like the Minimalist and Ghost, prove that thoughtful contemporary design and creative watchmaking and engineering do not have to approach five figures. But then, when the brand does cross that five figure mark, and creates something in the haute horlogery realm, we get things that are incredibly special and can kind of break your brain, making you wonder both how they did it and what is this anyway? That’s very much the vibe of last year’s solid gold 20.01 Series 3, which featured a fused borosilicate dial with 600 tiny holes cut into it that were then filled with lume (all on top of an AgenGraphe chronograph movement, naturally). At the time, I thought that watch was Ming’s most avant-garde creation, but the latest watch in the 20.01 Series might just top it. The centerpiece of the new 20.01 Series 5 is a science-fiction inspired dial that is laser milled from a single block of titanium. I was fortunate to be able to spend some time with this watch ahead of its release, and even though I had my chance to gaze at the dial, look at it under magnification, and consider it in all the ways we always evaluate something like this, I still have a hard time actually describing it. It is, effectively, a decorative sheet of titanium that has been cut to form a complex radial pattern emanating from the dial’s ce...
Video
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