Results for Windup Watch Fair New York

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Achieves Record Price

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Tudor England Sep 28, 2026

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: The Victorian Age of Time - Queen Victoria and the Watchmaking Revolution

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. Victoria (1819-1901) was the queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland between 1837 and 1901 and empress of India from 1876 to 1901. She was the last monarch of the House of Hanover and a queen whose reign defined an age known as the Victorian Era. It was a period of immense change and expansion that shaped Britain and the modern world. Under her rule, the monarchy evolved into the symbolic, ceremonial institution it is today. Victorian Britain was the workshop of the world, a place where science, engineering and artistry converged to define a new age of progress. From railways and telegraphs to the marvels of the Great Exhibition, innovation pulsed at the heart of empire. In horology, too, Britain played a commanding role with its precision chronometers keeping the navy supreme, while its watchmakers and clockmakers set standards of craftsmanship that resonated across Europe.  In...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Massena Lab Inflection Shuò Sep 26, 2026

Taking The The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò For A Spin

I first handled the original Atelier Wen Inflection last year. Its full-tantalum construction was impressive due to the difficulty of working with the material. Plus, the weight was memorable. Last month, the brand announced a collaboration with Massena Lab and introduced the new Inflection Shuò. It builds on the original’s already substantial foundation and adds […] Visit Taking The The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò For A Spin to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Breguet Marine 5517 Sep 24, 2026

Fresh Faces For The Sporty Breguet Marine 5517 And Chronographe 5527

As their names already suggest, the Tradition and Classique are Breguet’s classic-looking models, perfect for dressier occasions. But what if you want a sportier, water-resistant watch from the maison that made timepieces for royalty and emperors? Breguet has you covered with the Marine collection, available in precious metals as well as titanium. Breguet marine chronometers […] Visit Fresh Faces For The Sporty Breguet Marine 5517 And Chronographe 5527 to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Sep 24, 2026

Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style?

Just before summer, Glashütte Original invited us to its manufacture in eastern Germany. It was a great way for me to get to know the brand a little better. But the most important reason for the visit was the presentation of a few new releases. Jorg will cover the new Seventies collection in a separate […] Visit Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style? to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Sep 18, 2026

IFL Watches And Spinnaker Team Up For The Colorful Spence Underwater Dancers

IFL Watches does not sit still. The Dubai-based brand has been knocking out some remarkable collabs with a string of brands. The latest of these is the Spinnaker Spence Underwater Dancers. The watch celebrates World Manta Ray Day, which takes place every year on September 17th. The day celebrates manta rays and raises awareness of […] Visit IFL Watches And Spinnaker Team Up For The Colorful Spence Underwater Dancers to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Anoma A1 Core Collection Sep 18, 2026

No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray

Microbrand watch releases can often be both fun and frustrating at the same time. You get all excited about the original design, the attractive price point, and the brand’s sympathetic founder. However, if there’s only a limited number of pieces available or a tight order window, you need to decide quickly, and that’s not always […] Visit No Rush, Here’s The Anoma A1 Core Collection In Abyss Blue And Stone Gray to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound

Porsche Design Sep 17, 2026

Fortis, Berneron, and More Join Watches and Wonders 2027, Now Featuring 75 Brands

Watches and Wonders 2027 is still months away, but the specifics of the event are beginning to come into clearer focus. News broke this morning that the roster of brands has grown once again, and now numbers 75 in total. It had previously been announced that Breitling (along with their House of Brands cohorts Universal Geneve and Gallet) would be joining the fair, and this morning’s news sees several additional brands joining them that sit across a variety of price points and segments of the industry (including a brand that has attended its fair share of Windup Watch Fairs).  The headline grabbers in terms of participation are likely Berneron and Porsche Design. Porsche Design has grown considerably in recent years with an aggressive release schedule iterating on their iconic Chronograph 1 design. Berneron is arguably the hottest independent brand at the moment, and has been the subject of much discussion just in the last weeks following the public sale of a Mirage for over $500,000 on Loupe This (the retail price sits around CHF 51,000).  While those two brands likely have the highest profiles of the newcomers to Watches & Wonders, there are several others that I think are interesting from an enthusiast and business point of view. Kerbedanz, a Swiss brand that for much of its 15 year history has made custom watches exclusively for private clients, has been making a concerted effort to get their name into the minds of watch lovers this year, exhibiting at Geneva Watch ...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Ressence Taps Maze Artist Sep 17, 2026

Ressence Taps Maze Artist for Latest Type 9

For the latest installment of the brand’s Art Watch series, Ressence has teamed up with a contemporary Belgian artist for the puzzling Type 9 Jules Wittock. I say ‘puzzling’, because Mr Wittock’s specialty is hand-drawing incredibly detailed mazes, which are both decorative and solvable. By collaborating with Ressence, the artist has devised a clever maze that fits on the rotating dial of the Type 9. Initial thoughts If it seems like you’re seeing more artistic collaborations in watchmaking, you’re probably right. While it’s not a new idea — Swatch released its first artist edition in 1985, just two years into the company’s history — the format feels increasingly common, especially amongst design-oriented brands and independent watchmakers. For Ressence, the Type 9 Jules Wittlock is the latest in a line of artist collaborations, including works with Shantell Martin, Stefan Sagmeister, and Daniel Engelberg. The brand has also worked with designers like Alain Silberstein and Marc Newson — two regular contributors watch-related projects. While most artist collaborations result in a fairly straightforward dial variant, Ressence is perhaps uniquely suited to the format, with its rotating dial capable of creating a dynamic tableau. In this case, Mr Wittock has taken full advantage of this technical aspect of the watch with a functional, hand-drawn maze, complete with a secret message that reveals itself in the pattern twice per day. Fortunately, the pattern...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Nomos Turned Sep 8, 2026

Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection

I still remember running from booth to booth during Watches and Wonders when an email from Nomos arrived in my inbox. It introduced the brand’s new Twice Unique collection and immediately looked like an eclectic new initiative. With this new collection, Nomos celebrates collaboration and creative freedom, allowing the brand to experiment. The dials in […] Visit Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection to read the full article.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Oris swaps Sep 2, 2026

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater

L.Leroy introduces the Vox Temporis, an exclusive minute repeater and flying tourbillon. It features an unconventional single fixed hand with a rotating dial, inspired by a historic 1810 tact watch. Produced in titanium, red gold, and platinum, the watch is limited to just 15 pieces across all three case materials. For modern collectors, the appeal … Continued

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F Fratello

Fratello

Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Sep 2, 2026

Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition

A character who, in his first television appearance, attempted to eat a rubber tire to the frantic tempo and tune of Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov’s “Flight of the Bumblebee” deserves a watch. On the night of April 25th, 1977, The Great Gonzo set the tone for future death-defying and bizarre stunts in The Muppet Show and continued […] Visit Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Tudor Northflag Sep 1, 2026

Introducing - The Tudor Northflag is Back, now with GMT Movement

First presented in 2015, the Tudor Northflag (back then named the North Flag) was an important model for the brand. Not only did it bring back a 1970s style – that of the slightly controversial Ranger II, a bold exploration-inspired take on the integrated sports watch – but it mostly was Tudor’s first watch with […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Tudor England Sep 1, 2026

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: King George III, the Scientific Monarch and his Passion for Science and Horology

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. King George III, who reigned from 1760 to 1820, had a deep interest in science, particularly astronomy, horology, mathematics, and natural philosophy. He was one of the most scientifically minded British monarchs and commissioned several important horological instruments and supported scientific institutions during his reign. King George III (1738–1820) is often remembered for his struggles with mental illness during his long reign, but he was also deeply engaged in science, astronomy, and horology. Although his interest did not necessarily come directly from his grandfather, King George II, there are examples of important commissions made prior to him succeeding to the throne. One such piece is the magnificent Grand Orrery below made by leading London maker, Thomas Wright in 1733. Image 1 – George II’s Grand Orrery, Fleet Street, made by Thomas Wright, c.1733. King’s College London © T...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Studio Underd0g s First Limited Edition Aug 31, 2026

Studio Underd0g’s First Limited Edition 02SERIES Gen2 Goes on Sale for Just Nine Hours Tomorrow, and It Has a Full-Lume Dial

The field watch has long provided a blank canvas for creative – or in many cases not so creative – designs. Leave it to a brand like Studio Underd0g to take a timeless classic and give it a fresh and decidedly fun spin. That’s exactly what the brand did in 2023 with the launch of its 02SERIES. The line recently got a glow up with Gen2, which notably introduced a more streamlined case – down to a 37mm diameter from the original 37.5mm and down to 11.5mm thickness from the original 12mm. In addition, the new Gen2 collection got an upgraded movement from the Sellita SW210-1 to the Sellita SW200-2 M, which in turn upped the power reserve from 42 hours to 63 hours. Still, the biggest departure we see from the run of the mill field watch is the use of color – a trait Studio Underd0g has become known for – with four shades: Red L0lly, Pink Lem0nade, Steffany Blue, and Nightshade. Now, for the first time, a limited color run comes to the Gen2 series – this is the Special Edition 02SERIES Mantis. For this limited edition, we don’t just get a bright new green colorway by day – we get one that glows bright green by night. Yup, that’s right – it’s a full-lume dial. Thanks to a generous application of X1 GL C3 Super-LumiNova (a whopping seven layers to be exact), the daytime green ombre transforms into a single, uniform glow once the light fades. Here, at the base, you have that well-refined case design of the new Gen2 makeup. The dial gets a pleasing green colo...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Vacheron Constantin Jaquet Droz Aug 27, 2026

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know

Probably one of the proudest informal titles I’ve garnered in my nearly 15-year career in the watch industry is “the resident enamel girl.” As a refresher, I fell in love with the artform in a hands-on workshop during a press trip several years ago and have gone on to complete three different apprenticeships in Switzerland studying the craft. I have an immense appreciation not only for the beauty of enamel dials but also the meticulous creative process behind them. Enamel dials were long held in esteem as one of the elements of watchmaking reserved for the elite, much like high complications. It’s no small feat to bring a well-executed enamel dial to life. The materials, tools, machines, and the expert level of training for the craftspeople were once gripped tightly by top brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaquet Droz, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Let me be clear – in practice, brand clout ultimately does not correlate to the best enamel dials. There’s a particular maison not named here (and who I will not call out by name) but who is one of the biggest names in the industry, with every resource at their disposal, and one of their recent and highly popular enamel dials is unbearably mediocre if you give it a look under a loupe. Thankfully, the collector community is starting to come around to this notion that enamel from independent brands can be equally good if not better than the old guard. If you need further proof, here are nine under the...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Aug 27, 2026

First Look - The Tiffany Timer, now in a Titanium and Platinum Combination

While Tiffany is mostly known for its emblematic blue colour and its high-end jewellery, the NYC-based brand has been involved in watchmaking for much longer than most would expect. For instance, Tiffany introduced its first chronograph, back then a pocket watch, of course, back in 1866. Earlier this year, to celebrate the 160th anniversary of […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Omega Refreshes Aug 25, 2026

First Look - Omega Refreshes the Speedmaster 38mm Collection, Including a Moonwatch-Like Black No-Date (with Video)

When talking about the Speedmaster, most watch enthusiasts will immediately think about “The One”, the legendary Moonwatch Professional model. An evolution of the concept launched in 1957, the first watch worn on the Moon, and the only watch ever approved for NASA’s missions to the Moon, this iconic watch is only one element of a vast collection […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Aug 23, 2026

Buying Guide - Four Captivating Watches With Inverted Movements

For those with a passion for mechanics, like surely many us have, there’s something magical about seeing a watch movement run. Seeing a whole bunch of minuscule parts working in perfect harmony to tell time, and well beyond just the passing of hours, minutes and seconds, just never gets old. With the vast majority of […]

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W WatchRider

WatchRider

Oris ed UK retailer Aug 20, 2026

Orient Mako Gets a GMT for the First Time in Five Cool Colors

Orient has given its long-running Mako sports watch a GMT function for the first time. Five references have appeared for the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, comprising four regular models and one 4,000-piece limited edition. The watches were listed as in stock by an authorised UK retailer on 20 August 2026. Orient’s own global catalogue and press archive had not yet added them at the time of writing, so broader regional availability remains unconfirmed. A Larger Mako With Familiar Equipment The Mako GMT uses a 42.8 mm case made from brushed and polished 316L stainless steel. It measures 49.5 mm from lug to lug and 13.4 mm thick, making this a substantial watch rather than a compact travel companion. Each version has a sapphire crystal, a solid caseback and 20 bar, or 200 metres, of water resistance. The three-link steel bracelet has solid end pieces and a deployant clasp. Around the dial is a 120-notch unidirectional bezel carrying a 24-hour scale instead of the usual elapsed-time markings. The New F6P22 Automatic GMT Calibre Inside is Orient’s F6P22 automatic GMT movement. The current listings state a power reserve of approximately 40 hours, hacking seconds and an accuracy range of +25 to -15 seconds per day. The movement drives the normal hour, minute and seconds hands, the date at 3 o’clock and a fourth central hand that completes one turn every 24 hours. There is an important limitation. The GMT hand cannot be adjusted independently on this first version. To show ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Tudor Black Bay Monochrome Review Aug 17, 2026

Tudor Black Bay Monochrome Review: The "Gilt-Free" Master Chronometer Diver

A look at the Tudor Black Bay Monochrome with original photos, analysis, and pricing for this METAS-certified dive watch.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Panerai s Luminor Marina PAM01707 Aug 12, 2026

Introducing: Panerai’s Luminor Marina PAM01707 Is All Classic Everything, Except For The High-Tech Composite Case

What We Know As one of the more recognisable watch designs, period, the current Panerai Luminor shape has been rendered in many different materials since the 1955 introduction of the crown protection device. This latest take, the Luminor Marina PAM01707, is cased in Carbotech, a composite material combining carbon fibre sheets and polyether ether ketone, resulting in excellent anti-corrosion properties and lightness. Though Panerai’s products now comfortably sit in the luxury watchmaking category, it hasn't stopped them from using avant-garde materials suited to the original intent of their designs. Measuring 44mm across and 14.5mm thick, the PAM01707 has all the hallmarks of a classic Panerai, with its cushion-shaped mid-case sandwiched by a round, striated Carbotech bezel and a DLC-treated titanium caseback. The signature bridge, which spans the right-hand side of the case and protects and locks the crown, is also rendered in carbon, matching the uneven, textured finish of the rest of the case. This sanga-based analogy can be expanded on for the dial, another Panerai hallmark. The textured, matte top plate features cut-outs for the stick indices and Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, as well as the small seconds indicator at 9 o’clock, allowing the fauxtinated Super-LumiNova bottom layer to shine through. Here pictured on brown calf leather, Panerai also includes an “Officine Panerai”-branded black rubber strap so you can actually take the watch swimming, th...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Ming Aug 10, 2026

Arcanaut Introduces Fordite 2.0, Now Fully Customizable

Arcanaut, the Scandinavian indie known for their innovation with and unusual use of uncommon dial materials, has announced a major update to their signature watch. The Arc II Fordite, a personal favorite of mine and a watch I’ve proudly owned for a number of years, has been rethought as a bespoke piece, customized by each individual owner in a number of ways. Some of the options available feel like natural evolutions for the line based on a number of things we’ve seen from the brand in recent years across other projects, but a few are genuinely surprising.  When purchasing an Arc II Fordite from Arcanaut directly, the customer is brought to their Fordite Configurator, which first asks for their choice in dial. This, of course, is the heart of a Fordite watch as every dial is inherently unique (they are made from paint drippings from American auto factories). Prospective owners have always been able to choose their dial of course, but the watches have been sold as finished products. The new process centers the dials and the surprising ways they vary in appearance, and asks customers to think about how best to complement it.  The most welcome new development in the new Fordite process is the ability to pick from multiple cases. A total of four options are available, in “Standard” and “Skeleton” varieties, coming in at 40.5mm (the original size) or a new 37mm diameter. A smaller size should be exciting news to many as the 40.5mm case can wear quite a bit larger ...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Aug 6, 2026

Introducing - The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date, Now in Two-Tone Editions

Following its global relaunch in 2024 with Patrik Hoffmann at the helm, Favre Leuba retains the spirit of its historical tool watches but with a new focus on extreme wearability. Famous for engineering innovative, well-equipped tool watches, Hoffmann has revisited some of Favre Leuba’s vintage stars in a more contemporary key with slimmer cases and […]

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Aug 4, 2026

Happenings: Join Us For Hodinkee Happy Hour At One Vanderbilt [RSVP Here]

We're taking the show uptown—join us next Monday for the next installment of our Hodinkee Happy Hour series at Vandy Club, an event space located just above the Watches of Switzerland One Vanderbilt showroom. New venue, same vibe. Space will be extremely limited, so be sure to RSVP right away! Our Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys, will be there, along with members of the Hodinkee team. Whether you've been to several of our events or this is your first, we'd love to have you! It's a great, casual way to get to know members of the Hodinkee team and the watch community here in New York City. Date:Monday, August 10, 2026, 6-8 PM Location:Vandy Club1 Vanderbilt Avenue, 3rd floorNew York, NY 10017 RSVP Here.Note: Be sure to check your email upon registration for more details about getting into the venue.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Breguet numerals outperform another? But Aug 3, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 8

I occasionally have a hard time understanding why some brands are so popular. It’s not that they don’t deserve to do well, but I see brands that don’t seem to be doing anything much different from their peers, let alone special, yet are many times more hyped. Why does one Calatrava-esque watch with Breguet numerals outperform another? But with Ōtsuka Lōtec, I get it. In fact, I don’t just get it, I’ve fallen for it. Then again, Ōtsuka Lōtec isn’t like any other brand. Jiro Katayama, the brand’s founder and lead designer/watchmaker, works from a different playbook. Where other brands pursue finishing and neoclassical elegance, he seeks beauty in the raw and industrial. Inspired by analog machines, measuring instruments, gauges, and the industrial design of the pre-digital age, there is something rough and unintentional (though completely intentional) about his watches. Considering he taught himself watchmaking in a workshop nestled in Tokyo, there is a certain logic to this aesthetic. It’s not born in the farm-strewn hills of Jura, but rather in one of the densest cities in the world. Nor is his education from a lineage of tradition. You won’t find perlage or anglage; surfaces are typically raw, brushed metal, and rarely painted, with only the occasional red highlight. While potentially a love-it-or-leave-it aesthetic, it has resonated deeply with the watch community, touching on a pure joy of mechanics. But, there is more to it as well, as his watches...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aug 3, 2026

Heads Up For A Japanese History Lesson: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy

After launching timepieces inspired by the fantastic Arthurian mythology, Roger Dubuis thinks it’s time for a lesson on Japanese history. The new Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy takes inspiration from the rise of the Tokugawa Shogunate, a turning point in Japanese history. The Geneva-based brand uses its high-watchmaking know-how and métiers d’art to create 28 timepieces […] Visit Heads Up For A Japanese History Lesson: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Glashütte Original SeaQ “Northern Tide” Limited Jul 31, 2026

Introducing - The Glashütte Original SeaQ “Northern Tide” Limited Editions for North America

Glashütte Original expands its SeaQ collection of dive watches with two limited editions created exclusively for the North American market. Named “Northern Tide”, the limited editions are based on the existing SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date, introducing an all-new turquoise dégradé dial. Aside from the new colourway, both models retain the design, movements and specifications […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Doxa Streamlines Jul 31, 2026

Doxa Streamlines the “Army” Diver for Hodinkee

One of the cult brands when it comes to affordable, 1970s dive watches, Doxa’s latest is a vintage remake with a twist: the Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee is modelled on a dive watch developed for the Swiss army’s elite divers in 1969, but scaled down to a wearable 39 mm, compared to the chunky 42.5 mm (or even 45 mm) of most Doxa dive watches. Doxa has long mined its short but rich history of watches for underwater professionals, most famous amongst them the fictional adventurer created by novelist Clive Cussler. The Sub Army turns to a mil spec watch made for the commando divers of a landlocked country, preserving the design but refining it in size and style. It’s a 250-piece limited edition that sticks to Doxa’s sweet spot in terms of pricing with a retail of US$2,000. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked Doxa’s retro dive watches, especially the signature, oversized Sub 300 with an orange dial. Most of them have an appealing, recognisable look that’s backed up by the brand’s history. That said, Doxa makes a lot of dive watch models, enough of them that I have a hard time keeping up. Fortunately, the Sub Army for Hodinkee stands out in both style and size. At 39 mm and under 11 mm high, this has an easily wearable case that’s amongst the smallest in the Doxa catalogue, but still in the cushion-shaped format that’s a must-have for a retro dive watch of this type. The dial design is unique to the “Army” model and evokes vintage military equipment withou...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Grand Seiko s cal 9F movement Jul 31, 2026

The Citizen’s Latest Gets Indigo Washi Paper Dial

Next month Citizen’s The Citizen collection brings a new look to its exceedingly accurate high-end quartz watches. Still accurate to five seconds a year, or better, with a perpetual calendar and scratch-resistant titanium case, this limited edition introduces an indigo-dyed washi paper dial, produced using traditional craft methods. Initial thoughts Citizen’s The Citizen collection, which celebrated 30 years of questionable naming just last year, remains somewhat obscure even amongst watch enthusiasts. That’s unfortunate, as it has nothing to do with the quality of the watches, which are excellent and often handsome. And while the line now includes mechanical watches, high-end quartz is where The Citizen really shines. No two examples are the same. Though frequently compared to Grand Seiko’s cal. 9F movement family, I would argue The Citizen’s A0 line of solar quartz movements are of a different breed, more comparable to Seiko’s cal. 3X Astron movements or even Casio’s high-end G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power-save made that pauses the hands to save energy when the watch is not in use. However, The Citizen’s aesthetic differs widely from those of the Astron and G-Shock, favouring the sharply reserved style that has defined chronometry-focused Japanese watchmaking for decades. The other key difference is autonomy. Unlike Astrons and G-Shocks, which can vary by as much as 15 seconds per month without network synchronisat...

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