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Interview: Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Watch Design Chief SJX Watches
Cartier s Watch Design Chief Oct 1, 2021

Interview: Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Watch Design Chief

Cartier has enjoyed industry-beating growth since current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took over in 2016, with demand for both its watches and jewellery rising at a steady clip. One of the individuals behind the success of Cartier’s watch division is Marie-Laure Cérède. Having started her career at Cartier, she spent a dozen years at Harry Winston, before returning to the French jeweller in October 2016 as the Deputy Creative Director of Watchmaking. And in May 2017 she was elevated to the top job in design, making her ultimately responsible for the aesthetic of Cartier’s watchmaking. One of the first redesigns during Ms Cerede’s leadership was the Santos, which has evolved from the Santos launched in 1978 (far left), to the Santos 100 of the 2000s (centre), and finally the present model Her tenure has been marked by a steady stream of hits, ranging from collector favourites like the Tank Cintree to the trendy Tank Must. In that time, Cartier has reimagined most of its trademark watch lines, including the Santos and more recently, the Pasha. I spoke with Ms Cérède earlier this year to uncover the secret behind her successful rejuvenation of Cartier’s diverse line-up. Also present during the interview was Anne Charrier, the public relations-strategy manager for jewellery, watches, and accessories. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Cartier has a strong collection this year, both for men and women. And for a few years now, you have had stro...

VIDEO: Why is the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch causing waiting lists? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch causing Sep 30, 2021

VIDEO: Why is the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch causing waiting lists?

Grand Seiko has garnered attention from new and veteran collectors with their nature-inspired dials and exquisitely finished and faceted geometries. For the longest time, were you to ask anyone about Grand Seiko and their flagship model the immediate response would be the SBGA211 Snowflake. It has served as a gateway watch into the brand, a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why is the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch causing waiting lists? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs Time+Tide
Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Sep 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs

Seiko has a rich and ever-evolving tradition of sports timing and chronometry. Known for historically frightening the Swiss in observatory competitions and being a proud timing partner for events such as the Olympic Games, Seiko has always been motivated by accuracy – a pillar of many of their designs. Today the brand, in a continuing … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical and Solar Prospex Chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: With The L.U.C 1937 Classic Pink Gold, An Elegant In-House Chronometer From Chopard (Live Pics & Pricing) Hodinkee
Chopard Sep 29, 2021

Hands-On: With The L.U.C 1937 Classic Pink Gold, An Elegant In-House Chronometer From Chopard (Live Pics & Pricing)

Chopard's L.U.C collection contains a number of very interesting watches that range from simple time-only pieces to perpetual calendars and tourbillons (and even a cool table clock). At the more accessible end of the scale, we have the L.U.C 1937 Classic, a three-hand watch with a discrete date window and an in-house, chronometer-certified movement. That this movement comes in an elegant, well-finished pink gold package makes it all the more appealing.

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut Time+Tide
Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut EDITOR’S NOTE Sep 29, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut

EDITOR’S NOTE: There are some members of the Time+Tide team whose watch collection seems to change on a monthly basis. There are constant purchases, trades, U-turns, I-can’t-believe-I-did-that moments. Their sheer love of watches means the horological merry-go-round never stops. Our deputy editor Zach is one of those guys. Here, he reflects on one time he … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick? Time+Tide
Seiko unleashes Sep 29, 2021

VIDEO: Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick?

The next chapter in the Seiko Prospex “Black Series” has arrived.  Inspired by the world of night diving, the brand has taken the plunge with three new blacked out watches the SRPH11K (Samurai), the SNE577P (Tuna) and the SRPH13K (Monster). The “Black Series” concept first dropped in 2018 with two Solar models and an automatic Turtle, the SRPC49. The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Fratello x Nomos Zürich Weltzeit “The Hague” Limited Edition Time+Tide
Nomos Zürich Weltzeit “The Hague” Sep 28, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Fratello x Nomos Zürich Weltzeit “The Hague” Limited Edition

What is the pinnacle of time telling? Some would say accuracy. Others would say it’s the ability to count time as experienced with a chronograph. I would argue that nothing beats the benefit of a world timer. To be able to quickly reference a time, anywhere around the world, is almost a magical experience. One … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Fratello x Nomos Zürich Weltzeit “The Hague” Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Sep 28, 2021

Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Sep 28, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition

If you were to ask me what my favorite complication in watchmaking is, my answer would undoubtedly be the minute repeater. For me, fine watchmaking is about looking into the past and, while a completely unnecessary functionality in the modern world, there is an everlasting charm about a watch that can chime the time. Born … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), Again Close But Not Quite Unanimous In Our Pick For Winner Quill & Pad
Sep 27, 2021

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), Again Close But Not Quite Unanimous In Our Pick For Winner

It might be hard to find six more diverse pieces! Three shaped watches, two with visible movement parts, one gimmicky “troll” watch, one Japanese timepiece, one by a fashion brand turned serious watchmaker, and one designed by one of the best watch designers of all time. Whew, this is gonna be tough!

MICRO MONDAYS: The new Feynman Fjord Collection delivers blazing colours and radical designs Time+Tide
Sep 27, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The new Feynman Fjord Collection delivers blazing colours and radical designs

One of my main reasons for loving microbrands is the lack of limitations they place on themselves when it comes to design. That ability to be so uninhibited may be sometimes be polarising, but I always appreciate any brand’s attempt to go off the beaten path. That is what Feynman Timekeepers founder Yong Keong Lim … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The new Feynman Fjord Collection delivers blazing colours and radical designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin SJX Watches
Glashütte Original has Sep 27, 2021

One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? Time+Tide
Sep 26, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world?

EDITOR’S PICK: “Audemars on my wrist, bustdown. We poppin’ bottles like I scored the winning touchdown….” As Meek Mill demonstrated in I’m a Boss, rappers have long held a deep fascination with luxury watches. But given their massive followings and proclivity for namedropping brands in their lyrics, do hip-hop’s big names influence consumers’ buying habits. To … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws Sep 26, 2021

HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future

When Baltic released the first look at its Aquascaphe Dual-Crown back in May, the first impression was that this was a step forward for a brand whose superb designs had quickly pushed itself to the front of the crowded world of affordable vintage-inspired watches. The original Aquascaphe took its cues from mid-century divers, with gilt … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe has swiftly become one Sep 25, 2021

Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

F.P. Journe has swiftly become one of the most desirable independent watch brands, resulting in an ever growing selection on offer at auction. Perhaps the biggest single offering to date comes by way of Sotheby’s, which has amassed a 13-piece lineup of F.P. Journe watches for its upcoming Important Watches sale that takes place in Hong Kong on October 13, 2021. We round up eight of the most notable, a selection that naturally includes a Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”, as well as several limited editions, ranging from Ruthenium to a Tokyo-boutique special. The full catalogue and registration to bid are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2085: Octa Réserve de Marche with brass movement Originally the entry-level model for the brand, the Octa Réserve de Marche is today a stealth watch of sorts since it is still a simple watch, but an unusually valuable one. Launched in 2001, the Octa Réserve was part of the original trio of watches launched by Francois-Paul Journe, coming after the tourbillon and Resonance. Despite being the brand’s entry-level wristwatch at the time, it still boasted a proprietary movement with an impressive five-day power reserve, though the running time was originally envision was eight days, hence the “Octa” moniker. The cal. 1300 developed for the Octa Réserve would then go on to be the base movement for the entire Octa collection. The best part of the Octa Reserve is its asymmetric dial. Showing the time, date and power reserve, the d...

EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next. Time+Tide
Omega released Sep 25, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next.

Editor’s note: Brian King is a man who knows his mind. When Omega released a limited run of George Daniels’ co-axial concept watches in the early 2000s, he knew immediately that he was interested in going deep. Over a couple of months, he bought all three. But that’s only the start of the story. Here he writes … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Once Again Nearly Unanimous Quill & Pad
Sep 24, 2021

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Once Again Nearly Unanimous

Complicated ladies' watches are not as rare as they once were, and the best thing is that they are not converted men's watches anymore but purposely designed and built specifically for female wrists. While there are a lot of absolutely stunning watches in the Ladies Complication category this year, they aren't that complicated and there are quite a few tourbillons. Nonetheless, our panel reaches something of a consensus.