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The Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set has a J12 for every day of the week Time+Tide
Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set Mar 29, 2023

The Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set has a J12 for every day of the week

The Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set pairs together seven J12 watches Arranged from left to right, they show an encroaching shadow moving across the watch The bezel and dial are set with baguette-cut ceramic rings for a diamond effect with less sparkle The Chanel J12 has been an undisputed icon since its release in 1999, … ContinuedThe post The Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set has a J12 for every day of the week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko Unveils the Tentagraph, a New Sports Chronograph with a Three Day Power Reserve and High Frequency Movement Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Unveils Mar 28, 2023

Grand Seiko Unveils the Tentagraph, a New Sports Chronograph with a Three Day Power Reserve and High Frequency Movement

This year’s marquee release from Grand Seiko is the all new Tentagraph, an imposing and technically impressive chronograph that makes use of a new high beat caliber and a case shape derived from previous watches in the Evolution 9 Collection. It’s kind of hard to believe, but up until now, Grand Seiko didn’t have a purely mechanical chronograph in their collection. Spring Drive has ruled the day if you need a watch for timing laps, steaks, or anything else, but that changes this year.  With the Tentagraph, which carries reference SLGC001, Grand Seiko introduces a new movement, Caliber 9SC5. This movement is notable for its shared architecture and essential technical features with the next-gen 9SA5, the double-impulse escapement caliber introduced by the brand a few years ago. We’ve seen that basic time and date caliber adopted in a variety of excellent watches in the relatively short time it’s been in production, but this is where the fun really starts: we now have a new caliber derived from the 9SA5, which of course would lead anyone following the brand to think that a) we’ll see more chronographs coming from Grand Seiko within the Evolution 9 Collection and b) we’re likely to see more complications. The 9SA5 now takes its place as a halo caliber, with many possibilities ahead when it comes to variations large and small.  Like the 9SA5, the 9SC5 beats ten times per second and is powered by two barrels giving it a three day power reserve. That’s with the ...

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Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509

Due to its enviable position as the leading Swiss watch brand by revenue, Rolex tends to dominate headlines for even the smallest changes to its collections. So it’s even bigger news when the brand launches an entirely new collection, the Perpetual 1908, as it has on the opening day of this year’s Watches & Wonders. Named for the year that Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex trademark in Switzerland, the Perpetual 1908 is a slim, time-only watch with a display back that signals a renewed focus on the dress watch category for the giant of Geneva. Initial thoughts The Perpetual 1908 is a worthy replacement for the outgoing Cellini collection, which to me always felt like the forgotten child of the Rolex portfolio. Forced to use movements from their sportier siblings, the Cellini watches were never able to achieve the right proportions to be taken seriously as dress watches. The Perpetual 1908 debuts in four references in yellow and white gold, with the option of white or black satin finish dials; the black dials look especially good. The designs are atypical for Rolex, featuring a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, and a new handset. “Superlative Chronometer” drapes over the sub-seconds dial, calling to mind the Rolex Veriflat of the 1950s. Speaking of the Veriflat, the 1908 case measures just 9.5 mm thick thanks to the new cal. 7140. This is a big improvement over the Cellini watches, which were over 12 mm thick. The 1908’s dress watch credentials are bolstered fur...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes Mar 28, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph unites a chronograph with a double-sided display Draws inspiration from the first Reverso Chronograph of 1996 To showcase the chronograph movement, the dial is entirely skeletonised There’s a strong argument to be made that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso should really be classified as sports watch. It was, after all, specifically developed … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation Time+Tide
Tudor Royal collection offers refined Mar 28, 2023

The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation

The new Tudor Royal models are paired with chocolate brown and salmon dials. There are four case sizes spanning from 28mm to 41mm. Each watch is available with or without diamond hour markers. Any time a design risk is taken, people could turn one way or another. The Tudor Royal is undoubtedly their most visually … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sinn EZM1 When started Mar 27, 2023

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph

A Lange & Sohne came to Watches & Wonders with just a single release this year, and that’s all they needed to make a big impression. The watch is a new member of the Odysseus family, and it welcomes the brand’s first automatic chronograph. Like all of Lange chronograph movements, the new L156.1 within this watch is quite special, both mechanically and aesthetically. It should come as no surprise that the Odysseus platform accepts a chronograph compilation with ease, given the existing set of pushers that are integrated into the case, which are normally used to adjust the day and date. They still are, however their main function has been shifted to operating the chronograph. The Odysseus Chronograph retains the outsized day and date apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, as well as a running seconds hand nested at 6 o’clock. There are no other sub dials present. The timing seconds and minute hands are stacked together and centrally mounted, just like the equally fabulous Sinn EZM1. When started, the red anodized aluminum timing seconds hand kicks into action, and the second timing hand records each minute that passes, up to 60 minutes. One unique detail here worth noting is that, when reset, that seconds hand will retrace every lap it’s taken around the dial. So if you’ve timed something for 15 minutes before resetting, the seconds hand will make 15 laps in quick succession back to its starting place. These operations are routed through the integrated pusher...

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Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition Worn & Wound
Oris & Mar 27, 2023

Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Oris is expanding on their popular ProPilot X range of watches this year (a watch we reviewed here), but probably not in the way you were expecting. Meet the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, a green dial ProPilot X with a positive message and an easter egg up its sleeve. This watch represents Oris’ first time collaborating with Disney’s The Muppets franchise to create a truly unique experience around their popular pilot watch, and it gives us a deeper insight into Oris the brand than ever before. The theme of this watch is taking a minute for yourself, not taking life too seriously, and a reminder to have some fun.  The most striking detail of this ProPilot X is, obviously, the bright green dial. It’s not just any green, this is a key lime pie, cartoon level of green, and with a name like this you had better bring it. And bring it Oris most certainly has with this dial. I’d go so far as to say they could have ditched the white hour markers altogether and fully leaned into the concept, but they are there, so there is a level of practicality to the watch. There’s even a date window, but that part isn’t as straightforward. The big reveal of this watch happens on the first of every month, where the date window will reveal not a number, but an icon of the watch’s namesake, Kermit the Frog, of The Muppets fame. This is the once a month reminder to take a step back, lighten up a bit, and reflect on the positives in your life. That’s the idea, at least, and it might jus...

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The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range Time+Tide
Alpina brings four new models Mar 27, 2023

Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range

Alpina adds four new models for 2023 to their newly relaunched Alpiner Extreme line. Three of the new models feature a first for the Alpiner Extreme: an integrated bracelet. The unique Regulator Automatic sees two new versions, limited to 888 examples apiece. It’s time again for Watches & Wonders, where watch brands trot out their … ContinuedThe post Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks Mar 27, 2023

The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case

The new Tudor Black Bay 54 takes its inspiration from the 1954 reference 7922. Its 37mm case offers a great gender netural option for accurate vintage vibes. The steel bracelet is fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp. For thousands of watch collectors, the introduction of the Black Bay 58 was a phenomenal release that turned even … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is the epitome of sporty luxury Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Mar 27, 2023

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is the epitome of sporty luxury

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon has received a sequel, now with a Milano blue dial. The platinum case leans into a sense of stealth wealth, weighing 34% more than 18k gold. A 100m water resistance rating makes this a true platinum sports watch. Parmigiani Fleurier’s launch of the Tonda PF range in 2021 … ContinuedThe post The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is the epitome of sporty luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns Mar 27, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech marks a return for the 40mm Radiomir case. The use of Goldtech and a white dial offers a modern and sophisticated take on the vintage-inspired watch. It’s also the thinnest watch in Panerai’s current lineup, at a cuff-friendly 10.15mm. This seems to be the year of the Radiomir for Panerai, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Mar 27, 2023

The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance

Speake-Marin’s history is one drenched in luxury with bespoke offerings and a blend of tradition and futurism that very few brands can pull off as well. Last year, they changed gears by introducing the Ripples - their first integrated bracelet watch in steel. This is one of the most competitive markets for luxury wristwatches, and … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Celebrating 50 years: Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm and Riviera Azur 300M Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Mar 27, 2023

Celebrating 50 years: Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm and Riviera Azur 300M

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Baume & Mercier’s integrated model, the Riviera. For the first time, there’s a new unisex 39mm version of the Riviera. Also new is a dive version called the Riviera Azur 300m, a reinvention of their 1981 diver. It seems like everyone in the watch industry has jumped on … ContinuedThe post Celebrating 50 years: Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm and Riviera Azur 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...

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The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski in multi-faceted micro-blasted titanium Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Mar 27, 2023

The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski in multi-faceted micro-blasted titanium

The new Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is paired with a gloss black dial for more refined looks. The 41mm case is made from micro-blasted titanium. Richard Orlinski’s polygonal style makes the watch feel quite surreal. It has been six years since Hublot first teamed up with acclaimed sculptor Richard Orlinski, transforming their signature look … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski in multi-faceted micro-blasted titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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