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In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 13, 2022

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Oct 13, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel

Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...

INTRODUCING: The William Wood Fearless collection delivers enhanced wearability and a sense of fun Time+Tide
Oct 12, 2022

INTRODUCING: The William Wood Fearless collection delivers enhanced wearability and a sense of fun

One of my first hands-on reviews for Time+Tide in early 2020 was the William Wood Red Watch, and I was definitely a fan. The way that the brand were able to weave in Easter eggs that told their story and built an identity was unlike anything I’d seen from other companies at the time, and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The William Wood Fearless collection delivers enhanced wearability and a sense of fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What’s all the fuss about watches with a longer power reserve? Time+Tide
Oct 10, 2022

What’s all the fuss about watches with a longer power reserve?

When I first got into watches, the concept of power reserve was foreign to me. When it came to the mechanics of a watch, all I knew was that if left on my wrist, I didn’t have to worry about it stopping. Yet as time progressed and the world of watches consumed me, the amount … ContinuedThe post What’s all the fuss about watches with a longer power reserve? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft Oct 10, 2022

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes

The iconic French fashion house Louis Vuitton may not have any claim to a watch worn on the moon, but that didn’t stop them from releasing a cosmic phenomenon in the Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft. Unlike the drum-shaped Tambour watches which tend to be a little sportier, the Escale collection aims to evoke … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget & Phillips Introduce Oct 10, 2022

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition

Piaget typically relies on a conventional palette for its signature ultra-thin dress watches, but its latest Altiplano livens things up. A collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Edition is based on the watchmaker’s wafer-thin watch equipped with its in-house, super-flat automatic movement. Ordinarily found with a sedate silver dial, the Altiplano gets gradient green dial with pink gold hands and markings in a 21-piece limited edition available only in China. Initial thoughts Piaget’s typical formal watches with silver dials are classic, but they can be too plain. Excepting a handful with dials in unusual materials or finishes, I find many of them overly formal and visually flat. The China edition, in contrast, instantly stands out. Though it changes nothing in terms of the basic design, the gradient green lacquer and pink gold accents give the dial a vibrance absent in the standard models. Green, however, is today’s fashionable colour, which means it’s more common than it should be. Even so, the China edition has minor design tweaks that give it a more appealing aesthetic than the standard version, like the elimination of the numerals from the seconds register. Priced at 10% more than the standard model in white gold, the China edition is more appealing. Elegantly flat In contrast to similar Altiplano models that are almost uniformly kitted out in silver dials, the China edition has a dial that’s a deep, shaded...

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case” SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case” Originally Oct 10, 2022

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”

Originally conceived as a pilot’s watch when it was created over a century ago – as one of the first-ever wristwatches in fact – the Santos is not even remotely sporty in the modern sense of the term. Instead the Santos is an elegant watch that is quintessential Cartier. Earlier this year, the Parisian jeweller recently gave its trademark square watch a bold makeover when it debuted the Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case. Featuring a bezel and case covered in lacquer, the new Santos-Dumont was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing iterations of the models to date, yet it easily feels like quintessential Cartier. The steel version with black lacquer Initial thoughts The lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement given that the original is so established, perhaps the bestselling square watch in history. Though the case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a lacquered bezel dating from the 1920s, the new Santos-Dumont still feels satisfyingly original. It obviously reimagines a familiar design, one so familiar it might have even become tired, but manages to translates it into something entirely different. A pair of vintage Santos watches from around 1910, both part of the Cartier Collection In fact, the lacquered Santos-Dumont stands apart not only from earlier Santos models but also the competition. While brightly-coloured dials are now common for dress watches, the same cannot be said of the case. As a result, this is one of the most interesti...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Dumoreau DM02 is designed by an award-winning architect and it shows Time+Tide
Oct 10, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Dumoreau DM02 is designed by an award-winning architect and it shows

The watch microbrand game has become incredibly alluring over the last few years, with some examples rising from humble Kickstarter origins to sky-high profits and unmeetable demand. It’s such an attractive market that Carlo Aiello - an award-winning architect, designer and author - entered the fray in 2020 with his own brand called Dumoreau. The brand’s … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Dumoreau DM02 is designed by an award-winning architect and it shows appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The seconde/seconde/ Smart(ass) makes you love to hate yourself Time+Tide
Oct 9, 2022

The seconde/seconde/ Smart(ass) makes you love to hate yourself

The popularity of smartwatches has risen massively over the last few years. Where they fail to strike a chord with many watch enthusiasts, however, is that with their added functionality and high-resolution screens they usually need to be charged on a daily basis. Sequent chose to put a different spin on a smartwatch by powering … ContinuedThe post The seconde/seconde/ Smart(ass) makes you love to hate yourself appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Oct 8, 2022

Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is certainly among the more recognisable watch designs out there, I’d even venture as far as calling it iconic. I’m sure that most of you are already familiar with its origin story, so I won’t bore you with a history lesson. It should suffice to say that the original 1931 design was … ContinuedThe post Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kapow! 5 high-end watches from the Batman universe Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Oct 7, 2022

Kapow! 5 high-end watches from the Batman universe

With spooky season upon us, it’s time to sort out your superhero costume. Every hero (or villain) needs a selection of primo gadgets to accessorise their super-suit, and if you happen to be a playboy billionaire with a secret double life, a luxury watch is a must-have. While the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black … ContinuedThe post Kapow! 5 high-end watches from the Batman universe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail Time+Tide
Panerai or possibly even Squale Oct 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail

When you think of watch collaborations with the Italian navy your mind would usually travel to a brand like Panerai, or possibly even Squale. That said, with Bulgari so proud of their Italian heritage, it makes perfect sense that they would pay tribute to an important piece of their nation’s history, regardless of their militaristic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet Time+Tide
IWC Mark XX Oct 4, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet

Whether or not you are a seasoned collector, every collection needs a staple watch. A watch that excels in its simplicity, its versatility and reliability providing a rock-solid foundation within your collection. For many, the watch of choice to fill that role has been an IWC Mark. Robust, legible and handsome with its military and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love Time+Tide
Rolex models Oct 3, 2022

Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love

A collaboration between Bamford and Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ feels just perfect, doesn’t it? Bamford made a name for himself by “vandalising” sought-after Rolex models in his signature aqua and black, while seconde/seconde/is renowned for subverting the smallest details of a watch in the most irreverent way possible. Now the pair have finally come together to … ContinuedThe post Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Time+Tide
Bulgari s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Oct 2, 2022

The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani

Of all the people we get to interview in my line of work, the most interesting people to sit down with are the watch designers themselves. To hear the philosophy behind a design from the creator, provides key insight into the past, present and future of a collection. Unfortunately, by the time I joined the … ContinuedThe post The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years Time+Tide
Luminox Oct 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years

The phrase “tool watch” seems a bit laughable to some in a world of smartphones, smartwatches, and a world where luxury steel sports watches cost more than ever. Many of these steel tool watches are now among the most hyped and sought-after references around the world. Also, when you consider some collectors even look into … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille Oct 1, 2022

Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our round up of independent watchmaking highlights at the Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now turn to something more conventional and even fashionable: high-end sports watches. But naturally we’re not going to run through the unorthodox examples that need no extra publicity (though one “hype” watch might have slipped in). Our selection of a half dozen includes an early Richard Mille and possibly a value buy, a IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition that has an interesting and little known movement. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The RM002-V2 Lot 2161: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus An entirely new collection that debuted just in time for the modern brand’s 25th anniversary, the Odysseus is an outlier for a watchmaker that historically focused on high-end, classical watches. Though the Odysseus sports a design that’s unsurprising for Lange, it is the brand’s first watch with an integrated bracelet. More notably, the Odysseus was the first regular production Lange watch in steel. But we’re not here to talk about the heavily-hyped steel model, instead this is the model in white gold, which arguably offers more value than the steel version at market prices. The integrated-bracelet sports watch arena has long been dominated by the Royal Oak and Nautilus, so what makes the Odysseus a contender? The same characte...