Results for NOS (New Old Stock)

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Worn & Wound

Audemars Piguet among them Universal Genève Dec 13, 2023

Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève

Early yesterday morning, news broke in the watch world that was both surprising, and felt inevitable. Universal Genève, the highly regarded and historic Swiss brand that has been effectively dormant for years, will be revived and relaunched by the same ownership team currently steering the ship at Breitling. While the news of Universal finally getting a high profile relaunch isn’t exactly shocking (reviving heritage brands shuttered during the Quartz Crisis has been a favorite pastime in the watch industry over the last decade), we weren’t expecting the Breitling connection. The news (and reaction to it) speaks both to the great affection the community feels for the Universal Genève brand, and to the strength and financial turnaround of Breitling under Georges Kern’s tenure.  Universal Genève has a long and rich history, and has grown significantly in esteem in recent years. They were part of an explosion of interest in vintage watches that began more than ten years ago, but unlike other brands that benefited from increased attention on historic vintage pieces (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet among them), Universal Genève doesn’t exist as a modern watchmaker in a meaningful way. For that reason, there’s always been a mystique to the brand that can’t really be replicated. We can, and do, compare vintage versions of Submariners, Daytonas, and Royal Oaks to their modern equivalents, and can thus relate to these watches through a modern context or l...

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SJX Watches

Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet cal 4401/4409 Dec 12, 2023

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph

With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...

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Worn & Wound

Ming ly generous amounts Dec 7, 2023

Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch

Everybody loves a nice surprise. Right in time for the holiday season, Archimede is releasing a special capsule of their so-called “Vintage Edition” watches. As a callback to an older collection called Classic Retro, these watches are limited in number and designed to stay as true as possible to how a German-made Archimede pilot or field watch would have looked in the last century. There are five variants (one of which is already sold out as of this writing), and each brings its own old world charm. The Archimede Vintage Edition is probably most closely characterized as a pilot’s watch thanks to its legible dial and large onion-shaped crown, but you wouldn’t be out of line calling it a field watch either. Its 42mm stainless steel case is manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim, Germany and is sandblasted all the way around, which gives it a matte finish. The case is 51mm lug to lug and only 9.8 mm thick. The aforementioned crown is large and finished for maximum tactility, while the dial is clearly designed for optimal legibility. A subdivided railroad minute track lives on the outer edge of the dial; in the center, cathedral hands are the focal point. The Arabic numerals at each hour are large and squared off – distinctly Art Deco. Hands and hour markers all receive seemingly generous amounts of lume of varying colors depending on your configuration. On three of the versions in this collection, a date window is discreetly tucked in at three. The other two references...

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SJX Watches

Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

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T Two Broke Watch Snobs

Two Broke Watch Snobs

Dec 1, 2023

The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition

With more than a few releases under their belt since the brand's formal re-launch in 2020, Aquastar has had our attention for a while now. They currently offer a mix of faithful re-editions as well as new models inspired by previous designs. But so far, dive watch nerds have been curious about another Aquastar diver lurking deep within the shadows of dive watch history.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Omega s “Nekton” Seamaster Nov 30, 2023

Shinola Introduces the Bronze Monster GMT, with a Brown Fumé Dial

One of the most interesting developments in the collector community over the past few years is the emergence of Shinola, and their acceptance in enthusiast circles. It’s no secret that Shinola hasn’t always been widely praised by the most discerning and hardcore enthusiasts, but a series of more restrained releases (along with some that are just the right level of wacky – remember the square cased, yellow dialed Mackinac yacht timer?) has bought them some goodwill with new audiences. A new GMT in bronze would seem to capitalize on multiple trends in the enthusiast simultaneously.  Part of the Monster collection, the aptly named Bronze Monster is a 40mm GMT equipped sports watch with a robust appearance and 100 meters of water resistance. The aesthetic feels aviation inspired, which makes sense given the GMT complication, although unfortunately this is a “caller” style GMT without an independently set local hour hand (it runs on a Sellita SW 330). Still, it’s attractive, and feels lush in bronze with a matching brown fumé dial. Fence post hands oversized Arabic numerals reveal that legibility was of primary importance to the design team on this reference.  The case has gentle, curvy lines at the lugs, and the key visual impression of the Bronze Monster outside the dial is the 24 hour bezel, also in bronze, with numerals in relief. It’s a striking look that reminds me of watches that the collector community has praised, like Omega’s “Nekton” Seamaster ...

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Worn & Wound

Urwerk Nov 27, 2023

Recap: Watches, Diving, & Enthusiasm At Dubai Watch Week

Last week marked the 6th edition of Dubai Watch Week, an educational forum and brand exhibition situated in the heart of Dubai’s Financial Center. This is not a commercial event (no watches are sold by the exhibiting brands) but rather an event put on for the community, featuring masterclass sessions around the craft, open forums from watchmakers, and even debates between collectors and media personalities. This year offered a selection of new release announcements and incredible talks to take in (along with some truly epic watch spotting along the way), and we also took the opportunity to take in a bit more of the surrounding region with a few dives, a trip to the world’s tallest building, and even some Formula 1 racing down the coast in Abu Dhabi for good measure.  Dubai Watch Week is organized by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the region, offering everything from Rolex and AP, to Urwerk and MB&F;, many of whom are represented in the fair. The grounds of the fair are open to the public and free to attend (though registration is required), with a strong presence from the local enthusiasts communities and their families. Meeting members of the Dubai Watch Club, as well as some enthusiasts passing through the region to take in the fair (including several from our own W&W;+ Slack channel) was among the highlights of my time in Dubai. The fair itself was split into two sections, with an indoor hall surrounded by an outdoor pathway upon which some of th...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Seiko Nov 26, 2023

A Week In Watches: Episode 68 - Q&A; From Worn & Wound+

This special episode of A Week In Watches takes a break from the regular news cycle to answer some of your questions submitted to us through the Worn & Wound+ Slack channel. Join Zach Weiss and Blake Buettner as they tackle some of your questions, from trends and recent releases, to how they met and what kinds of watches keep them from getting jaded. There are plenty more questions yet to be answered in the Slack channel, so keep an eye out for more episodes like this, and even podcast episodes dedicated to answering your questions. We’ll be back to regularly scheduled programing next month, discussing new releases from Dubai Watch Week, new chronographs from Seiko, and more than likely a new collab or two. Thanks to everyone who took the time to submit a question, we will do our best to get through them all through one of our channels so keep an eye out for more coming soon. If you have a question or discussion prompt for us, you can sign up for Worn & Wound+ for free by subscribing to our newsletter at the bottom of the homepage. The post A Week In Watches: Episode 68 – Q&A; From Worn & Wound+ appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication both Nov 20, 2023

An Eye on Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

Our favourite segments in Phillips’ Hong Kong sale on November 24 and 25 are artisanal and form watches, independents of course, and now complications. We round up a selection of nine notable complicated watches, including two special-order Patek Philippe masterpieces, a ref. 3974P with Breguet numerals and a ref. 5004P Michael Ovitz special. The list also includes vintage complications, like the well-preserved Rolex ref. 6062 yellow gold “Stelline”. And also some big value buys in a literal sense: the 48 mm Panerai PAM00350 “Lo Scienzato” skeleton tourbillon and the 44 mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication, both estimated at a fraction of their retail price. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 839: Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica “Lo Scienziato” PAM00350 Panerai paid tribute to astronomer Galileo Galilei in 2010 with the PAM00350 “Lo Scienziato”, one of the most complicated watches made by the brand.  It was a Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramic powered by the in-house cal. P.2005/S – a skeletonised movement executed in a distinctly modern style with the base plate and brides open worked in a grid and finished entirely in matte black. The aesthetics of the P.2005/S movement make the PAM00350 arguably one of the few Panerai models that successfully blended a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic with the historical Pa...

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Nov 19, 2023

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong

Having explored the best of independent watchmaking, we now pivot to the artisanal masterpieces at Christie’s Hong Kong sale on November 26, ranging from a 1950s cloisonné Omega by Nelly Richard to a Patek Philippe Dome Clock. Amongst the more esoteric is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, the quartet of timepieces each featuring a miniature sculpture replicating tribal masks in Geneva’s Barbier-Mueller Museum.  The auction on November 26 is made up of two parts, starting with Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) at 1 pm  – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lots 2224-2227: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” set One of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Metiers d’Art creations, “Les Masques” is a literal description of the watches – each contains a miniature sculpture that deftly reproduces tribal masks from around the world that are part of the primitive art collection in the renowned Barbier-Mueller Museum. Each of the three years from 2007 to 2009 saw the launch of a “Les Masques” set made up of four watches, with each watch representing one of the four continents of Asia, Oceania, Africa, and the Americas. This present set is from 2009 and depicts masks from Gabon, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  The masks were micro-sculptures of 18k gold that were intricately engraved and coloured by hand, and then...

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin alongside other enamelled works Nov 18, 2023

The Arts and Forms of Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After exploring the independents in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, our attention now turns to watches that focus on unusual aesthetics, namely timepieces defined by complex decoration or unusually shaped cases. Amongst the artisanal selection, here is one of Muriel Sechaud’s avian creations for Vacheron Constantin, alongside other enamelled works from the workshop of Anita Porchet. Muriel Sechaud’s rendition of Audubon’s birds And amongst the form watches is the Patek Philippe ref. 5013R-013, a tonneau-shaped grand complication in pink gold with a black dial, of which only three are known.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 859: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060 by Muriel Sechaud Renowned enamelist Muriel Sechaud collaborated with Vacheron Constantin to create a collection inspired by the illustrations of Jean-Jacques Audubon, a French-American artist, naturalist, and ornithologist. Audubon’s work, ‘Birds of America,’ served as the primary inspiration for this collaboration. The Swiss watchmaker, known for its commitment to craftsmanship and artistic expression, commissioned a series of cloisonné enamel dials to reproduce Audubon’s intricate bird illustrations faithfully. This artistic union reflects the fusion of horological expertise with the beauty found in natural history illustration. The current reference...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre Nov 18, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque: 11 Complications (Plus Flying Tourbillon) are Impressive, But the Fact that it’s So Wearable is The Real Magic - Reprise

It wasn't until Ian Skellern had the opportunity to handle the four-faced Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 for himself that he understood the sheer scale of JLC’s achievement and gazed in newfound awe. Even though he had read the dimensions of Calibre 185, they were just numbers: in reality, it was much smaller and more wearable than he was expecting. Calibre 185 is by no means a small watch, but, as he reports, it is small for the sheer amount of complications packed inside.

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Nov 17, 2023

The Best of the Indies at Christie’s Hong Kong

Christie’s autumn sale season in Hong Kong is led by Important Watches, a 146-lot sale featuring independent watchmaking, reflecting the genre’s current popularity. Notably, the season will also feature the first sale of the OAK Collection belonging to French collector Patrick Getreide.  In this compilation, we examine nine lots by independents ranging from watchmakers that are practically establishment now, like Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. Amongst the highlights from the OAK Collection are several unique watches made for past Only Watch auctions, one of the rare occasions these one-off watches are returning to market. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begins at at 1:00 pm on November 26 – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection sale (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Both sales take place at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Lot 2242: Gerald Genta Arena Mickey Mouse  With the revival of Gerald Genta by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), there has been a renewed interest in the timepieces it crafted in the past. Watches produced during the era when the brand was owned Bulgari have received less attention, although some are equally interesting, like this Arena Mickey Mouse. Gerald Genta debuted its Fantasy line featuring Disney characters in the 1990s. That evolved into the Arena Fantasy in the 2000s, which included this particular 80-piece edition made in around 2009. The watch combines the fami...

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SJX Watches

Greubel Forsey Nov 16, 2023

Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Hong Kong begins on November 24 and as is now convention, the sale includes a diverse selection of independent watchmaking.  Among the highlights in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is the F.P. Journe Coffret 38 – the collection of five watches with 38 mm steel cases made to mark the discontinuation of the brand’s historic case size. Each model in the set is significant in François-Paul Journe’s horological ascent, from the groundbreaking Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite to the meticulously no-frills Chronomètre Optimum, and here each watch is (relatively) accessible and sold as an individual lot. The auction features creations from other notable watchmakers in every price range, including Daniel Roth, Habring², Voutilainen, and a Harry Winston developed by Greubel Forsey. These watches invite exploration into the history and future of watchmaking, and some tell stories of craftsmanship and innovation that captivate.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is scheduled for November 24 and 25. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in the sale is the second to be sold publicly in as many auction seasons Lots 815-819: F.P. Journe Coffret 38 set of steel watches In 1991, François-Paul Journe introduced his first wristwatch that had a platinum case 38 mm in diameter – large enough to be unheard of at the time. In comparison, the Patek Philippe ref. 5004 split-...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Nov 13, 2023

Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant

Much lauded at its launch last year, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) was originally available only in two guises of rose gold or platinum, each with a matching enamel now. Now Rexhep Rexhepi has quietly debuted a small run of the RRCC II in the same metals with gemstone hour markers to match. The platinum version features a black enamel dial with baguette-cut diamond indices that give it a stark, formal beauty. And the rose gold model has a cream enamel dial with ruby markers. Initial thoughts Discreetly glamorous gentlemen’s watches with diamond hour markers are a well established tradition in watchmaking, particularly so during the mid-20th century at high-end brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The new RRCC II is clearly a reference to such historical watches. Despite being a modern watch, and clearly recognisable as such, the diamond-set RRCC II manages to capture the subtle, elegant nature of its historical inspiration thanks to its compact case with graceful lugs inspired by vintage Patek Philippe models, including this ref. 2551. A possibly unique Patek Philippe ref. 2551 dating from 1957 with a white gold case and diamond indices that sold for almost CHF360,000 at Phillips in 2022 Interestingly, even though the RRCC II was not originally conceived as a gem-set watch, the dial accommodates the diamond hour markers perfectly. The glossy surface of the enamel dial complements the diamonds’ sparkle, while the alternating track ...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold makes Nov 12, 2023

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold makes rugged carbon look suave

The Octo Finissimo seems the perfect canvas for an all-carbon treatment. No wonder Bulgari went ahead and did it.The post The Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold makes rugged carbon look suave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Nov 10, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M

Oris has a seriously capable modern diver on their hands with the Aquis. What’s more, they’ve created an original design that’s easily associated with the brand in the process. Oris have dabbled into more niche diver territory with things like the Aquis Depth Gauge, but never into extreme realms. Until now, that is. This year, Oris has upgraded the Aquis Pro from a 1000M diver, to a 4000M diver. The change doesn’t make much practical difference for most of us, but adds a heap of bragging rights to the Aquis name as it joins some elite company in the world of ultra-deep divers. The new Aquis Pro is a statement from Oris, and places the watch within a unique niche of the dive acth genre in the process.  Ultra deep dive watches are a strange breed. Not only are they tricky to design and build, they’re also quite hard to pressure test properly without highly specialized equipment. We’ve seen brands go as far as building their own apparatus to validate depth ratings, particularly as they go beyond 3,000 meters, or 10,000 feet. In the case of the deepest divers, like the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, which both go well beyond 10,000 meters, or 30,000 feet, pressure testing is rigorous and complex, and can even involve real world validation strapped to the exterior of vessels traveling to the depths of the sea. $6200 [VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Case Titanium Movement Oris caliber 400 Dial Blue wave degrade L...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nomos Issues Nov 9, 2023

Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version

In their ongoing “175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” series, Nomos has finally unveiled a watch that we’re frankly surprised has never existed before, but makes perfect sense right now. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a precious metal limited edition version of what is indisputably the brand’s most iconic design. In any kind of celebratory context, you’d expect the Tangente to play a lead role, and now, after limited versions of the Orion and Ludwig, the Tangente gets its own luxurious turn.  The 175 Years campaign has actually been ongoing since 2020, when a trio of stainless steel Lambdas were introduced. That release was notable because the Lambda had always been available only in solid gold, so a steel version was of particular interest to Nomos collectors who prize the brand’s watches for their great value. This release, in a way, is the inverse of the Lambda limited editions, with a model that is very much associated with stainless steel being introduced in gold. It makes a lot of sense for the Tangente, often cited as the most directly Bauhaus inspired watch in the Nomos catalog, to get this kind of treatment. In steel the straight lugs matched with the circular case appear almost severe, but the whole package has a warmer and more inviting sensibility in rose gold. It still looks delicate and impossibly precise, now just with a notably more luxe feel.  The dial for this version is inspired by early watches made in Glashütte, and beyond tying this r...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Massena Lab Nov 9, 2023

The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968

Now in their fourth collaboration together, Swiss brand Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB have once again brought their individual strengths to give us the Chronograph ‘68. This vintage-inspired watch is the best of both worlds: providing a great timepiece, while also being a stylish, vintage inspired accessory for anyone looking for an upgrade to their wrist rotation. The impetus for this watch’s design comes from the tumultuous year of 1968. As Mathey-Tissot recounts the various cultural shifts during this period in history, one really has the sense that there was a dramatic change happening as the world was preparing to ring in a new decade. Mathey-Tissot and Massena cite events like Arthur Ashe’s historic victory at the U.S. Open and the emergence of “mod” culture in London as important cultural touchstones from the year, and the Chronograph ‘68 exists as a kind of tribute to a very specific point in history by adhering to particular aesthetic choices rooted in late ‘60s watch design. To commemorate this period, Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB looked at various reference points of watches that were sold during the 1960’s. The result is an amalgamation of design elements that work seamlessly together to make a timeless watch that could easily be made today or 60 years ago. From the black dial against the 41mm stainless steel case, to the reflective hour markers, to the three colorful registers in red, white, and blue, the balance of neutral design and pops of ...

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SJX Watches

Rolex Nov 8, 2023

Obituary: Jörg Bucherer, the King of European Watch Retail

Jörg G. Bucherer, the third generation to run the Bucherer retail chain, passed away on Monday evening at age 87. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Le Temps. His death comes less than three months after agreeing to sell his family business to Rolex in a multi-billion franc move that shocked the entire industry, but secured the future of the company. He led an extraordinary life, being one of the last remaining people to have worked directly with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and building a reputation as a man about town. Known for his fast cars and beautiful women in his youth, he was always extremely closely guarded when it came to media appearances. Bucherer took over the business in 1977, and had been at the centre of the industry ever since. Having navigated many turbulent periods in matchmaking, he not only kept the Lucerne-based retailer afloat, but steered it to the very top, with the business now counting over 100 points of sale across Europe and America, making it the biggest seller of Rolex watches anywhere. The historic Bucherer store in Lucerne. Image – Bucherer When Bucherer took the reins from his father, the industry was in turmoil in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis. That didn’t stop him as he expanded the company from its Swiss base into new territories such as Austria and Germany in 1980s. He would go on to acquire other retailers as he pursued expansion, including Kurz Group in 1989 and Swiss Lion in 2001. The real b...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Rolex Nov 8, 2023

Jörg Bucherer, Head Of Watch Retailer, Passes Away At 87

The news comes three months after the surprise sale of his retail network to Rolex.  

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant Nov 3, 2023

F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant in Geneva

In the world of independent watchmaking, François-Paul Journe is perhaps the first amongst equals. But beyond his eponymous brand, Mr Journe has long been something of a gourmand who invested in restaurants in the past. But now his most ambitious culinary project has opened: F.P. Journe Le Restaurant. Located on Geneva’s posh Rue du Rhone, the restaurant is helmed by Dominique Gauthier, formerly the chef at Le Chat-Botté, the Michelin-starred Geneva institution in the lakeside Beau-Rivage hotel. A shared passion Anyone who has been inside an F.P. Journe boutique might have noticed wine bottled especially for F.P. Journe from Chateau Seguin, whose owner is a friend of Mr Journe. Similarly, the new restaurant reflects Mr Journe’s personal relationships and passions. The new restaurant is actually Mr Journe’s third foray into dining, amongst his previous endeavours was a steakhouse. But F.P. Journe Le Restaurant is undoubtedly conceived to be something else entirely. Besides the reputedly CHF1.5 million investment in the location, Mr Journe has recruited one of Geneva’s star chefs. Dominique Gauthier was the head chef at the Le Chat-Botté for some 30 years, clinching a Michelin star along the way. All smiles A historical address This new restaurant is inside a 19th-century building at 49 Rue du Rhône. More notably, the building once housed Bavaria, a renowned German restaurant popular in the early to mid decades of the 20th century. In its prime, the establishment...

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Worn & Wound

Nov 2, 2023

Introducing Balmont, a French Brand Offering a Unique “Treasure Hunt” Experience for their Owners

Something I’ve observed over the last few years is that watches as a hobby have grown to a point where you could make an argument that they’re really no longer a niche any longer. It used to be that watch collecting was thought of as strange, or misunderstood, but we are so many steps beyond that point that there are experienced collectors in the hobby who don’t even remember it. That means that the landscape is increasingly competitive, and brands need to work harder and harder to set themselves apart from the pack. Increasingly, we see brands incorporating unique experiences into the watch purchasing process, and a new brand with roots in French watch media, Balmont, has taken this to an unexpected new level.  Balmont is the product of a collaboration between a group of watch industry veterans based in France, including Benjamin Chamfeuil, founder of the watch brand Vasco, and Ludovic Barrois, who is behind Le Petit Poussoir, a leading French language watch blog. At first glance, the initial collection from the brand, the BDX series, would appear to be a fairly standard issue sports watch. They are nice looking in a kind of classic way, with clean dials in white, gray, silver and black, and a 40mm stainless steel case. There are small premium details here and there that underscore the pedigree of the people behind the brand – they know what enthusiasts will appreciate. The white dial, for example, has a ceramic coating, and hand applied indices have been physica...

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Nov 2, 2023

Breguet Navigates Tradition and Ambition with the Marine Tourbillon 5577

In the realm of haute horlogerie, few names hold the same level of esteem and reverence as Breguet. The newly unveiled Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is no doubt intended as a tribute to the brand’s visionary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, by drawing inspiration from his deep ties to maritime navigation, astronomy, and the spirit of innovation.  Initial thoughts By introducing a tourbillon for the first time in the Marine collection, Breguet aims to leverage the prestige of the complication to enhance its sport watch offering. Like many other Breguet complications, the Marine tourbillon possesses a high level of quality, particularly in the sophisticated and impressively constructed movement that’s just 3 mm high, making its one of the thinnest tourbillon calibres on the market. The thinness gives the watch elegant proportions, despite the relatively wide case that’s 42.5 mm, as it stands well under 10 mm high. Besides its height, the cal. 581 is notable for having a decoration unique to this watch. The Geneva stripes are modified to feature engraved channels separating the stripes, creating the impression of a sailboat’s decking. However, the devoted Breguet purist might see the addition of a tourbillon to the Marine as a departure from tradition, likely driven by the ambition to compete with comparable sports watches like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.  Abraham-Louis Breguet never incorporated a tourbillon into a marine chronom...

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SJX Watches

Breitling Refines Nov 1, 2023

Breitling Refines the Avenger Collection

Breitling has redesigned the Avenger collection of big and bold pilot’s watches. First introduced in 2001 – the original is perhaps best known for being worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond – the Avenger is now (very) slightly scaled down, kitted out with cleaner dials and better case detailing, and an in-house movement for the chronograph. Made up of the B01 Chronograph 44, GMT 44 and Automatic 42, the new Avenger collection still retains its signature size and style – the watches remain oversized, rugged, and functional, with chunky rotating bezels and 300 m of water resistance. Initial thoughts  Breitling is known for is oversized pilot’s watches and the Avenger is exactly that. More substantial and modern than the old-school Navitimer, the Avenger is an unapologetically big, bold “tool” watch. The facelift has streamlined the design slightly, giving it a cleaner and more contemporary look, while retaining the key elements of the Avenger, including the all-matte brushed case and rotating bezel with rider tab. While there are technically three models in the family, the key one has always been the chronograph, and that is emphasised here with the Avenger chronograph with in-house Calibre B01. This is now the only chronograph in the line-up, while previously the collection included both ETA-powered and in-house versions. The Breitling B01 features a vertical clutch and column wheel Although the chronograph is the priciest in the collection, it is defi...

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Worn & Wound

H. Moser Introduces Oct 31, 2023

H. Moser Introduces a Highly Complex Endeavour Limited Edition Combining Chinese and Gregorian Calendars

Moser’s latest, in a somewhat under the radar way, is easily one of the most ingenious technical achievements in watchmaking this year. The Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition expands on the principles of simplicity behind Moser’s excellent perpetual calendar by integrating a Chinese lunisolar calendar with a display for the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac and phases of the moon, along with a Gregorian calendar. It’s a dizzying amount of information to be combined, and is even more confounding when you consider that unlike the Gregorian calendar, the Chinese calendar doesn’t have any repeated cycles, which makes it impossible to create a true “perpetual” Chinese lunisolar calendar. The way H. Moser and their partners at Agenhor have gotten around this is impressive.  The Chinese calendar is based on the cycles of the moon, which means that months have 29 or 30 days (it takes the moon 29.53 days to orbit the earth). A total of 12 lunar months means that a lunar year lasts approximately 354 days on average, which is about 11 days shorter than a solar year as observed by the Gregorian calendar. This is the first hurdle in combining the lunar and solar calendars into one mechanism, but it’s even more complex than that. In a calendar that only observes lunar cycles, the months need to shift to keep pace with the seasons, with each month starting around 11 days earlier in every new solar year. This means that every two to three years, a thirteenth month is a...

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SJX Watches

Breguet Livens Up Oct 31, 2023

Breguet Livens Up the Ladies’ Classique Tourbillon 3358

Having recently redesigned its flagship perpetual calendar and minute repeater, Breguet now turns to its compact tourbillon for ladies. Moving away from Breguet’s traditional, formal style, the Classique Tourbillon 3358 is available in two variants, including the ref. 3358BB with a blue mother-of-pearl dial with diamond stars. Initial thoughts By doing away with the usual silvered guilloche dial, the new pair of tourbillons bring a new look to a familiar watch. Although the two watches are quite different from past Breguet tourbillons, they are still recognisable as Breguet thanks to elements like the pomme hands and fluted case band. The white gold ref. 3358BB is definitely the more striking of the two. The blue mother of pearl dial set with diamond stars is usually whimsical for Breguet, but nonetheless works well with the more traditional design elements. The ref. 3358 with a blue mother-of-pearl dial The Classique Tourbillon 3358 is a woman’s watch, but the design elements employed here could be transplanted into a men’s tourbillon wristwatch quite successfully, though it is not like Breguet to do something like that.  Though pricier than past ladies’ tourbillons, the ref. 3358 is arguably more interesting and attractive, particularly for someone who wants something much less formal and traditional. The ref. 3358 with a diamond-set dial Stars and diamonds Already in the catalogue for several years, the ref. 3358 in its earlier incarnations looked more like ...

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Worn & Wound

Ming Oct 27, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Meg Tocci

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Meg Tocci (@minutemeg on Instagram) brings us a well balanced collection hitting on a variety of enthusiast favorites – and all with blue dials, a constraint Meg chose to challenge herself to stick to with these picks. This collection has bronze, an integrated bracelet sports watch, and a bezel that will help you leave an appropriate tip. Between these three watches, you’ve got virtually any situation covered, even if you can’t use a slide-rule.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. If your watchbox is getting a little unwieldy and you’d like to pare down, the three watch collection seems to offer a solution. It frees you from the burden of becoming a One Watch Person (who needs that pressure?) while providing reasonable constraints to shield you from the black hole of price drop alerts and the illusory refrain of “just one more.” It leaves the collector with enough space to make choices without feeling restricted by them. With countless combinations, I knew this project required a strategy. While I considered dropping significant dough on one heavy-hitter and two inexpensive options, I wanted to challenge myself to stretch those dollars as far as I could, with all three choices weighing in above the $1,000 price point. I knew I wanted to prioritize real-life applicability by picking options for both work and leisure. Whee...

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Worn & Wound

TAG Heuer Continues Oct 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Continues the Carrera’s 60th Anniversary Celebration with Gold Version Inspired by Vintage References

It’s no stretch of the imagination to think that there is a large crossover between motorsports and horology. In fact, some of the most well-known drivers have become synonymous with the brands they rep both on their wrists and plastered across their car. It makes sense, then, that TAG Heuer would look back to their motoring history to help celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Carrera collection. Going back a few decades, we can in part acknowledge Jack Heuer as one of the reasons watches and cars have become paired in our collective minds. During the Golden Age of motoracing, Heuer introduced the concept of gifting gold watches to racing stars. It was here that solidified TAG Heuer as a brand that wasn’t just respectable – but covetable. It’s this bit of Heuer history which has become the inspiration behind this new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph. Coming in at 39mm in an 18-karat gold case, the watch itself is a timeless piece of art which sits somewhere between its sporty heritage and its luxury namesake. The small details of this watch show the thoughtful design to really honor the heritage of this collection: from the integrated chronograph pushers to the black subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock which are a nod to past expressions of the iconic reverse panda configuration. Most intriguing of all is the Glassbox design of the case itself, a flourish brought to the collection this year to celebrate the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. With an ultra-ergonomic design, the ...

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