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Time+Tide
Montoir's design brief was simple - classic dive watch, Swiss movement, affordable price - and they delivered.The post The Montoir Dive Watch is an impressively affordable first effort from a new microbrand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There are many brands that claim to have a novelty up their sleeve, but there are first, and then there are first. Here are some of the most significant ones.The post 10 important firsts in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
What makes high end watches so desirable is the artistry involved. For some watches, it is artistry in their complexity, or their superlative hand finishing, or intricate dials, and some feature actual artwork like miniature painting. Then there are a very few timepieces that offer all of that artistry and more: one such timepiece is the unique piece Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger.
Time+Tide
This new Zenith Chronomaster Sport introduces a blue dial and steel bezel into the core stainless steel range for the first time.The post This new steel Zenith Chronomaster Sport debuts a blue dial, but ditches the ceramic bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The history of the Glashütte watchmaking region is truly fascinating, having survived all kinds of turmoil from poor mining returns, natural disasters and wars. In spite of this, it was the star of Germany’s watchmaking capability for centuries. Glashütte Original’s founding was not a typical one for a watch company, tracing its roots either to … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about Glashütte Original appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Alec Dent brings us a trio of amazing and historic tool watches, each with a story to tell. This is a selection with loads of character and a surprising amount of flexibility. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. In putting together the perfect three watch collection, I’m looking for diversity. Who wants a collection where each watch is competing against the others? A well-rounded trio gets you more bang for your buck and can provide some assurance that each watch will get a decent amount of wrist time. With only three watches it’s hard to make sure you’ve got a watch for every occasion-like measuring radioactivity, keeping highly-accurate time for a thousand years, or calculating your rate of martini consumption-but I feel confident I’ve covered most of the important bases. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf – $1,500 Every watch collection needs a dive watch. (Or, as many in the watch community seem to think, two or three or four or five or…) There is no better value proposition than the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf. 200 meters of water resistance with a screw down crown? Check. Heritage? I don’t know how you could argue a 141-year-old Swiss made brand that launched one of the first true dive watches alongside Rolex and Blancpain doesn’t have heritage. And unlike those other two brands, which have seen their prices balloon exorbitant...
Time+Tide
Cult fashion label Rowing Blazers teams up with Bamford and TAG Heuer on a very collegiate chronograph.The post The Rowing Blazers x Bamford TAG Heuer Carrera is peak preppy goodness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hermès’ pocket watches consistently demonstrate the brand’s limitless creativity across a spectrum of artisanal crafts. Bringing forth a delightful blend of surprise and anticipation, the Slim d’Hermès Masan Masan Pocket Watch is decorated with horsehair marquetry, a weave technique that forms a finely textured motif. The one-off creation stands as a remarkable achievement, underscoring Hermès’ exceptional talent transforming the distinctive designs drawn from its scarves into works of art for the wrist or pocket. Initial thoughts Hermès’ creativity appears boundless, characterised by an impeccable sense of understated aesthetics that sets it apart from the more extravagant approaches taken by many other manufacturers. Even when Hermès endeavours to go over the top, the outcome remains remarkably restrained, aligning seamlessly with the company’s approach to other product lines. Its collection of exceptional watches always demands a second look to truly appreciate the craftsmanship required to achieve these results, as they often showcase techniques and skills seldom employed by more renowned watchmakers. This is evident in the unique Masan Masan pocket watch, where the artistic craft of marquetry, typically executed with small pieces of various kinds of wood, takes an unexpected turn with the use of woven horsehair, resulting in a beautiful outcome. Applied to the dial of this white gold timepiece, this technique creates a brownish oblique texture, agains...
SJX Watches
After the release of the scaled-down version of the Spirit Zulu Time, Longines has unveiled a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback Chronograph. This variation features a titanium case and bracelet, and an anthracite dial only for now, while preserving the design of the existing steel models. Initial thoughts Longines should be acknowledged for its success in creating vintage-style watches, as evident in its aviation-inspired Spirit collection, notably the Flyback Chronograph. The introduction of this chronograph in titanium shows a continuation of this successful run, despite its large case size. As for this timepiece, it maintains the design features and case dimensions of the steel Spirit Flyback. However, it’s worth noting that it is currently only offered with an anthracite dial. It would have been preferable for the new case material to be accompanied by a new dial colour to truly make this release stand out. The titanium Spirit Flyback is offered with two strap options: one with a NATO strap priced at US$4,850 and another with a bracelet priced at US$5,200. Despite a modest price increase compared to the steel models, it continues to deliver exceptional value for its quality. The Flyback in titanium Much like its steel counterparts, the titanium Spirit Flyback Chronograph exudes a distinct vintage-inspired design. Presently, it is only offered with a sun ray brushed anthracite dial as compared to the steel models available in either black or blue dials. The stee...
Hodinkee
A special new video podcast series for in-depth discussions with experts from watches and beyond.
Worn & Wound
Field watches, as Zach alluded to earlier this week, are, in some sense, the best kind of watch. Free from extraneous moving parts or features, field watches are designed to do what watches do – tell time legibly and not break. At no point was this more necessary than during World War II when Britain’s Ministry of Defense issued a request for durable watches under the specification “WWW”: wrist, watch, waterproof. One of the famous 12 companies (AKA the Dirty Dozen) that answered the call was the Timor Watch Company. The rest, as they say, is history, and eight decades later we have the modern successor to the Timor WWW. Let’s get the specs out of the way: The new Modern Field 100M’s case is PVD-coated 316L steel for maximum stealth, and the domed crystal is also treated to combat glare. Timor has elected to preserve the watch’s historic 36.5mm size while keeping the remaining dimensions very reasonable: 12mm thick, 45.5mm lug to lug (18mm lug width), and 94 grams on the seat belt nylon strap. Inside is a modified Sellita SW260 movement. Water resistance is 100 meters, which Timor considers perfect “in rain, river, or during a rigorous workout.” The dial of the Modern Field 100M is what you would expect from a no-nonsense watch: Large Arabic hour markers paired with their 24-hour equivalents. Along the chapter ring is a smaller scale of 5-minute increments. Simple pencil hour and minute hands, carried over from the original Timor Dirty Dozen, make time-te...
Worn & Wound
Ming’s latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a more restrained take on the 37.07 Mosaic released last year to celebrate the brand’s fifth anniversary. That Mosaic, like so many of Ming’s watches, is all about how different elements of the watch play with light. We see this is the watch’s key components, particularly with the lume on the dial and the meticulous finishing of Ming’s cases. The 37.07 Monolith, like the 17.06 Monolith before it, is effectively an inversion of these ideas. The case is blacked out and doesn’t feature a hint of high polish, and the dial is, almost literally, a shadow of last year’s watch. It’s a different vibe for Ming, and a reminder that the brand’s canvas can accommodate a range of styles and textures. The idea with the 37.07, according to Ming, was to carry their design language into a more utilitarian state. They call it a “palate cleanser” in their press materials – a watch that can be worn without having to worry about it too much. This is largely achieved through a total transformation of the case, giving the lug tops, bezel, and crown a bead blasting treatment, while the case flanks the the case back retain the brushing that is common to most Ming references. Because there are still multiple finishes employed on the case, we don’t completely lose the sense of drama and feeling that every detail has been accounted for – everything is just an order of magnitude more subtle and reserved. If you recall last year’s M...
Time+Tide
A simple and good-looking everyday watch, the Baltic Hermétique Tourer is ready for a few tougher challenges too.The post The new Baltic Hermétique Tourer is an excellent round-out for the brand’s collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
I recently had the opportunity to see how the philosophy of “in-house” plays out in real life with a behind-the-scenes tour of the F.P. Journe manufacture in Geneva, and its newly opened case and dial factory in Meyrin, Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG). The tour was impressive in its thoroughness and transparency. Montres Journe, the entity that makes F.P. Journe watches, comprises three entities at two sites in the Geneva metro area. The first is the F.P. Journe manufacture in downtown Geneva – incidentally not far from the Patek Philippe Museum – where all F.P. Journe movements are designed and manufactured, and where all watches are finished, assembled, and tested. The reception room at the Geneva manufacture. When F.P. Journe launched in 1999, this room was the entire production space for the brand, which subsequently acquired the rest of the building. The original production space is now a reception area and home to a portion of the Jean-Claude Sabrier library, acquired in 2015. The other two entities are Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG) – which translate literally as “The Dial Makers of Geneva” and “The Case Makers of Geneva”. The two recently moved into a new building where CDG makes dials for F.P. Journe as well as third-party clients like Vacheron Constantin, Laurent Ferrier, and numerous other elite brands, while in contrast BDG makes cases and bracelets exclusively for F.P. Jou...
Time+Tide
A partnership between Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia marks the inaugural entry of Louis Vuitton's collaborative series with independent watchmakers.The post The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Constellation is not only the Swiss luxury brand’s oldest collection (if we’re tracing the Seamaster back to its first “Professional” dive-watch model in 1957); it’s also the dressiest, with a design heritage that hinges on two classic and very iconoclastic watches from two distinctively different eras: the cult-classic original from the 1950s and the influential revamp in the 1980s. Here’s an in-depth look at the Omega Constellation, its half-century-plus of revolutionary design, and what the collection looks like today. 1952: Making a Pie Omega, founded in 1848 by an ambitious young Swiss watchmaker named Louis Brandt, celebrated its 100th anniversary in the postwar year of 1948. The most memorable watch the company released during that milestone year, most would agree, was the first Seamaster, which introduced the innovative waterproof system that would give rise to today’s sprawling Seamaster Professional collection of dive watches. A rarer and more obscure timepiece introduced that year was the Centenary, Omega’s first chronometer-certified wristwatch. An iconoclastic gold dress watch, highly limited in production, the Centenary took its name from the 100-year anniversary it commemorated and its design would provide the template of a collection that would debut several years later, in 1952, called the Constellation. (Both the Seamaster and the Centenary, incidentally, were the brainchildren of watch designer René Bannwart, who would go on to...
Time+Tide
Watches are big business, and despite periodic highs and lows, the industry is estimated to wind up 2023 at nearly US$100 billion. Naturally, competition is fierce, and brands are always looking for new ways to stand out from the crowd. Of course, this can happen when you release a great product, but getting consumers’ attention … ContinuedThe post The future of luxury watch marketing is 3D appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Have you ever dreamed of designing your own watch? I sure have, but as much of an enthusiast as I am, I do not have the tools or knowledge to do so. If I could, the best-case scenario would be the ability to create watches uninhibited and unencumbered by conglomerate politics and red tape. Full … ContinuedThe post Horage Mission Independence – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jamie and Borna were lucky enough to go driving supercars with Grand Seiko. Must be nice.The post Going for a ‘Spring Drive’ with Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Coming off the first 90’s-inspired collaboration with Zodiac Watches is a new player in the lineup. The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag edition is chock full of 90’s nostalgia goodness. Inspired by the sights and sensations of gearing up and hitting the laser tag area, this watch features a ton of unique design cues that neither Worn & Wound nor Zodiac have done before. While our presentation of the watch is pure laser tag-induced fun, it’s a surprisingly versatile timepiece that’s sure to bring some color into your collection. Let’s take a closer look. Coming off the first 90’s-inspired collaboration with Zodiac Watches is a new player in the lineup. The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag edition is chock full of 90’s nostalgia goodness. Inspired by the sights and sensations of gearing up and hitting the laser tag area, this watch features a ton of unique design cues that neither Worn & Wound nor Zodiac have done before. While our presentation of the watch is pure laser tag-induced fun, it’s a surprisingly versatile timepiece that’s sure to bring some color into your collection. Let’s take a closer look. The post The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Is A Future Classic appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon embraces symmetrical and whimsical design. The Purity Tourbillon movement boasts a huge 17mm tourbillon cage that beats at 4Hz. Close inspection of the openwork movement reveals a lot of hand-finished detail. Although it remains quite a niche genre for the wealthy elite, the list of sapphire-cased watches is quickly growing. … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Speake-Marin offers their entry-level Academic in a new Rouge configuration. The distinct red of the dial is achieved through 14 layers of Pantone 188C-coloured lacquer. Grade 5 titanium cases in two sizes, 38mm and 42mm, and neither is a limited edition. Dressier timepieces have been overshadowed in an era where sports watches reign supreme, an … ContinuedThe post The new Speake-Marin Academic Rouge offers their entry design in a new hue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In the first episode of The Lineup, Zach and Marcus discover five French watch brands they've never heard of.The post 5 French watch brands you’ve never heard of but should know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Longines present a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback chronograph with a grade 5 titanium case and red dial accents.The post The new Longines Spirit Flyback Titanium addresses a point of contention within the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Seiko made some big news this morning, with the long rumored announcement of a new version of their classic 6117 Navigator Timer. That vintage reference is critically important for many Seiko collectors, an early GMT from 1968 in the same familiar design language of many classic Seiko sports watches. With new GMT calibers now in production, many enthusiasts expected the timing was right for a modern rendition of the 6117, and today they got their wish in the form of the SPB411, the Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition. This new reference is a fairly faithful rendition of the classic watch from the 60s, with modern components and design choices only where they’re most appropriate, and plenty of restraint everywhere else (no Prospex logo on the dial!). For GMT fans and Seiko collectors, the SPB411 is a significant new release. All the hallmarks of the 6117 would appear to be present in the SPB411. Namely, the distinctive cushion case, the rotating 24 hour bezel, and a slate gray dial. The “Navigator Timer” wordmark no longer appears on the dial, but otherwise it’s a solid recreation, with rectangular hour markers and thin, block hands carried over to the new release, as well as a short red arrow GMT hand. That gray dial has a sunray finish, and we get a date window at 3:00 with a contrasting white background. Most importantly for fans of the original, the case size has remained consistent. The SPB411 comes in at 38.5mm in diameter, just about half a mi...
Worn & Wound
New from ochs und junior, a new execution of their “mese” time and date watch, as part of their more value oriented “ochs line” of watches. Ochs und junior has been a point of fascination here at Worn & Wound for a long time. They work within a truly distinct design language that’s held throughout their (growing) product line, and offer rather ingenious solutions to sometimes complex watchmaking problems. Their watches have a simplicity to them both in terms of their aesthetics and mechanics that is really appealing to particular type of watch nerd. They work as an antidote, almost, to the “Can you top this?” game of dizzying and often needless complexity that often plays out in the world of high end watchmaking. With their ochs line, the brand offers key watches from their catalog in predetermined colorways at a reduced cost, giving collectors who wish to forego the brand’s extensive customization options a chance to own one of their pieces at a reduced cost. The latest addition to the ochs line pays tribute to Ray and Charles Eames, an American design team that almost certainly has had some influence on ochs und junior over the years. The Eames name is perhaps most associated with the iconic Eames Lounge Chair that was first introduced and manufactured in the 1950s by the Herman Miller furniture company. Eames furniture designs were notable for their use of molded plywood splints, which replaced the more commonly used metal splints that were popular in ...
Time+Tide
The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet makes its first-ever debut in a 38mm size with ivory and purple hues.The post Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet debuts in new 38mm size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Your feedback has helped shape the evolution of T+T over the past 10 years, and will now help direct the next exciting phase of our growth as a 'go-to' for all things watches.The post We need YOU to answer this survey… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Following our look at notable complications and artisanal masterpieces on offer at Sotheby’s Important Watches I in Hong Kong, we now consider the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale that takes place on October 7. The offerings in the sale range from establishment names like Philippe Dufour – on offer is a Simplicity 37 mm in platinum made after the original run – to newcomers like Pascal Coyon with a Besançon Observatory-certified chronometer. And the highlights also include the headline lot of the auction, the extravagant Richard Mille RM 53-02 in blue sapphire crystal. Important Watches I happens on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The Richard Mille RM 53-02 Lot 2116: Pascal Coyon Chronometre One of the most affordable offerings in the sale is the Pascal Coyon Chronometre, a watch inspired by the French watchmaker’s career as a watch and clock repairer in Bayonne. Though based on a Unitas 6498, Mr Coyon’s hand-wound movement bears a strong resemblance to classical 19th-century pocket watches from the likes of Longines. While the movement is still a Unitas 6498 at its core, it has been dressed up with frosted bridges and a snail cam regulator, amongst other things. Being one of his earlier watches, this has a plain, 42 mm polished steel case with a stepped bezel and a white lacquered dial with red numerals for “12” and “60”, complemented by Breguet-style hour and minute hands. This ...
Time+Tide
In the early 1950s, Blancpain’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter was diving off the coast of Cannes when he lost track of time. It almost proved a fatal mistake as Fiechter ran out of air and almost died. That near-death experience motivated him to try and create a reliable instrument that could enable divers to monitor their … ContinuedThe post Why Blancpain’s epic marketing flex didn’t involve a single watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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