Bring a Loupe: A Cotton Bowl Tudor Date + Day, A Tropical Rolex GMT-Master, And A Government-Seized Patek Philippe Nautilus
All that, and more in this week's round-up of vintage (and sometimes modern!) watches from around the web.
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All that, and more in this week's round-up of vintage (and sometimes modern!) watches from around the web.
SJX Watches
A tribute to the Japanese anime and manga series, about an alien robot, the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition is the latest variant of Tissot’s bestselling sports watch. It’s based on the standard PRX 40 mm and incorporates elements of the anime series, including a blue dial with a stamped motif of the titular robot and a seconds hand with a counterweight in the shape of Grenadier’s bladed weapon. Initial thoughts Although the update to the model is only cosmetic, the collaboration makes sense, especially given the affordable nature of the watch. With the obvious elements from the cartoon, the Grendizer theme is obvious and just right for an accessible sports watch. This is undoubtedly a unique take on the original PRX, but the fact that the Grendizer aesthetic is so strongly present might actually deter those who aren’t fans of the cartoon. Priced at US$825, the PRX Grendizer is a good value proposition, just like the standard model. In fact, for someone looking for a PRX that’s different – the standard model is a bit generic – this is much more compelling for essentially the same price. A giant flying robot The Grendizer edition has exactly the same dimensions as the standard model. The steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, satin-brushed on top with mirror-polished bevels along the edges of the case flank. Featuring an integrated bracelet, it wears smaller than it measures due to the slim case profile. Unlike the standard model, ho...
Worn & Wound
In this hobby of ours, there constantly exists the urge to dive down new rabbit holes and subgenres of watch collecting, awaiting the next reason for us to open our wallets and find a reason to justify purchasing another piece. While this typically takes the form of a unique color combination or bezel insert, what about a function like backlights? Sure, Timex’s Indiglo has most certainly found mainstay within the watch industry––as has Casio’s Electro Luminesce technology and of course lume––but what others are out there? For those who haven’t had the pleasure, I now have the honor of introducing you to the fairly forgotten Seiko 7559 movement, utilized here in its most unique application: the 5010 model. A Brief History of the Cal. 7559 and its Applications As is the story with most watches I tend to develop an interest in, little is known about the design process behind this movement or model outside of repair manuals, blog posts, and owner photographs. The information included here is based on my own research, and I invite anyone interested in this model or movement to include any additional material they may know in the comments section below. Though I’ve attempted to collect as much information on the subject as possible, I would be delighted to hear that more pictures or materials of any kind exist elsewhere. Production of the cal. 7559 began somewhere in the summer months of 1978 and continued until the late 1980s. The quartz movement itself is a...
Monochrome
On the occasion of Porsche launching the 911 992.2 Hybrid, Porsche Design introduced a new watch collection to its custom-built program. Mechanically based on the previous generation of the Globetimer, Porsche Design now puts it in the titanium case of the chronograph. Made to order, and with tons of custom options on offer, you can […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Earlier this month, Longines debuted a new non-limited version of their popular Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium. Back when the brand partnered with Hodinkee for an exclusive limited edition, folks were a bit critical of the fact that the watch seemed strikingly similar to the Tudor Black Bay Pro, a point of criticism that didn't really concern me. It was a handsome watch, in my opinion but I wasn't a fan of the FOMO associated with the limited edition. Thankfully, if you were a fan of the idea behind the watch, you now have an option to pick up a model that arguably looks a little more refined - with features like a grade 5 titanium case and bracelet and a "true" GMT movement.
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Worn & Wound
Earlier this month, Worn & Wound hit the road, traveling just a few hours up the interstate to Boston, MA, where we were joined by our friends at Bulova for a friendly neighborhood watch meetup at Democracy Brewing in the city’s Downtown Crossing neighborhood. Bulova brought a ton of great watches for everyone to check out, including the newest edition of the Lunar Pilot in a bold red colorway, as well as the latest versions of the Surveyor, Jet Star, and Super Seville. The Super Seville in particular was a big hit, with a classic integrated bracelet look and Bulova’s state-of-the-art Precisionist movement. In addition to Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frederique Constant were also well represented at the event. Boston has a fantastic watch enthusiast culture, and attendees were pulled from no less than three are collecting groups: Boston’s RedBar Chapter, Booze & Bezels (based in southern New Hampshire), and the Boston Watch Shots group. Everyone came with an interesting watch on their wrist and enthusiasm for the growing community in greater Boston. At the end of the night, a Bulova A-11 Hack was raffled off to a lucky winner, as well as several items from our new collection of Worn & Wound merch. Thanks to everyone for coming out, and thanks to Bulova for being our partners in this event. Stay tuned to these pages, the Worn & Wound+ Slack channel, and social media for information on future events. Images from this post: The post Worn & Wound Teams Up with Bul...
Hodinkee
Inside the collection of one of Japan's leading vintage watch dealers.
Monochrome
A year ago, Louis Erard and watch influencer The Horophile (Amr Sindi) joined forces to create a special trilogy of the brand’s Petite Seconde known as the Metropolis. Following the same Art Deco recipe, the latest Petite Seconde Metropolis flaunts an attractive green dial, and comes in a non-limited edition. Since Manuel Emch’s arrival as […]
Monochrome
Independent and creative high-end watchmaking is more than ever at the centre stage of the watch industry. The interest of collectors in such rare and exclusive watches, produced by small-scale companies and infused with the soul of their creators, has been on the rise for several years now. And as a consequence, large luxury groups […]
SJX Watches
Following the 2022 debut of its first ever tourbillon – and the brand’s most complicated watch ever – Grand Seiko follows up this year with the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 “Daybreak”. Mechanically identical to its predecessor (the SLGT003), the new Kodo still boasts a co-axial tourbillon and remontoir, a novel construction unique to the Kodo. But the Kodo SLGT005 is dressed in brighter colours of silver tones and pale greys, hence the “Daybreak” nickname. The result is a watch that’s less aggressively technical in style, but just as complicated. And thanks to its lighter palette, the technicality and decoration of the movement are arguably more prominent in the Kodo “Daybreak”. Initial thoughts The Kodo in its original form had a strikingly skeletonised appearance that maximised the view of its intricate mechanics, giving something of an anime sci-fi aesthetic. This was accentuated by the dark colours highlighted with vivid, dark red rubies. The new version, on the other hand, is both lighter in colour and visual weight. Because there’s less colour contrast in the movement, it appears a bit more classical and less stylised. A clever touch are the blue jewels to replace the conventional red ruby bearings, which enhances the “daylight” theme. The original Kodo SLGT003 from 2022 Even though it looks different, the Kodo SLGT005 is identical in technical terms. So it still has the impressively constructed movement with a novel approach to t...
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Monochrome
This is not the first time 1970s pop culture has come to life on a watch dial, and it’s likely not to be the last time. There’s just something appealing about past icons, and reviving them in relation to watches is common practice. One such watch to get this type of makeover is the Tissot […]
Hodinkee
Italian modernist watch brand meets streetwear media platform meets German automaker.
Teddy Baldassarre
Like so many of the modern breed of start-up, independent watchmaking companies, Unimatic traces its origin to a pair of friends with a shared passion for timepieces and an entrepreneurial spirit. Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato met as industrial design students at Politecnico di Milano, Italy’s largest technical university. Moro’s father had been a watch collector, and after designing his first watch as a lark while working at a furniture company, Moro connected with Nunziato to collaborate on the watch that became the Modello Uno U1-A, which launched in 2015 and essentially became the foundation of the Unimatic brand, its name a portmanteau of the Latin “unico” for unique, and “matic,” for willing or able. The Unimatic U1-A from 2015 The U1-A, which quickly sold out, was a classical dive watch with a 40mm round case, a flat, black dial; simple shaped indexes; a black bezel insert with a 60-minute scale and a lumed dot; and a Seiko movement. Its follow-up, the U1-B, was even more streamlined, dropping the minute scale from the bezel. Both the original models set the parameters for every one that followed: each Unimatic watch is pressure-tested to 300 meters of water resistance and designed and cased in Italy; each watch is individually numbered, and the design ethos driving them all is a function-forward, tool-oriented aesthetic. Today, Unimatic watches comprise dozens of models and include not only the divers that brought the brand to the table but also fie...
Monochrome
Almost two years ago, we published a story about two young and talented watchmakers coming out of A. Lang & Söhne to set up shop for themselves. Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, founders of the Kallinich Claeys watchmaking atelier, were hard at work to develop and build their first watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde. On paper, […]
Worn & Wound
Maybe it’s just me but I find the micro and independent watch world to be utterly fascinating. And it is so for many reasons, one being the sheer variety of options we have for all genres of watches which are available at a wide variety of prices. From GMTs and elegant dressy models to divers and field watches. And there are indeed many options to choose from in all of these categories. One of my favorite things about watch writing is bringing readers stories on the little guys, so I’m therefore pleased to be writing this article to tell you about the just released Zealandic Iceborne. A new brand founded in New Zealand by Derek Chuan whose project I’ve been following for the past two years now, so it’s nice to be able to get my hands on the prototypes. Derek has been working on this project for longer than I have known him. And his idea of creating a watch which represents New Zealand has been on par with the recent trends of endowing watches with textured and nature-inspired dials. Between you and me, Derek has been working on this long before many other brands probably have. And this is just to say that the Iceborne has been a long time in the making and I believe it shows. Both from a visual perspective as well as from a spec sheet one. The Iceborne has a look of its own and it is made of the right stuff to be a proper field and adventure watch. It will be made available via a Kickstarter campaign at the introductory price of $441 USD. $483 Hands-On: the Zea...
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Deployant
We got our hands on the new Citizen SKY Mechanical GMT. Here are our thoughts on the watch after about 2 weeks on our wrist.
SJX Watches
As the official timekeeper of the 37th America’s Cup soon taking place in Barcelona, Omega is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup. A time-only version of the brand’s signature dive watch, the latest Seamaster features most of Omega’s material and movement innovations, including a laser-engraved ceramic dial and METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. The special edition also sports yachting-specific elements, including a blue ceramic bezel with a regatta countdown scale and a seconds hand counterweight in the form of the America’s Cup trophy. Initial thoughts As a special or limited edition, the new Seamaster is not especially interesting since Omega does a lot of them, with several commemorative editions for each sporting events it’s part of. And it’s not just for sports but also the James Bond film franchise. But as a new Seamaster, the America’s Cup edition works well. For one it’s a good value proposition at US$6,500 on a bracelet, particularly given the specs and features. At the same time, the blue-and-white aesthetic is appealing, especially with the clean, no-date look. And there’s the subtle detail on the minute hand with a gradual colour fade finish that is novel and so far unique in the Omega catalogue. So leaving aside that it’s yet another commemorative watch – it could do without the large logo on the sapphire back – the America’s Cup edition stands out as of the more appealing Seamaster models. A...
Quill & Pad
In recent years, several factors have come together resulting in the exponential rise of microbrand watches. This new microbrand wave is one of the biggest developments in the broader watch market. I would mention here that not all microbrands are equal. There are many watches out there that, to be honest, are not worth your time. However, some microbrands are getting it right as Raman Kalra highlights here.
Hodinkee
If you like phenomenal movements, technical innovation, and a whole lot of lume, this new watch is going to blow you away.
Worn & Wound
Pilot-style watches represent one of the most popular segments within the industry. Introduced at the dawn of aviation in the early twentieth century, pilot’s watches are the original tool watches. They range from simple, time-only designs to complication-filled behemoths with altimeters and slide rules. From heritage-inspired reissues to cutting-edge technology, there’s a pilot watch to suit every style and budget. They inspire a sense of adventure into the unknown, their function-over-form nature, and often rugged good looks, making them ideal for daily wear. Without further ado, here are fifteen of our favorite pilot-style watches under $5,000. The post Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Worn & Wound
Xeric is a watch brand with a cult following based on a reputation for creating some of the most ingenious and affordable statement watches in the microbrand world. Their pieces are often conversation starters, featuring unusual time telling displays and lots of color. If you’re familiar with some of their avant-garde designs, it’s perhaps not a surprise that they have an entire sub-collection of NASA branded watches. It just kind of makes sense that watches with a decidedly futuristic, sci-fi inspired look would connect to the space agency. Their latest NASA piece, however, is almost subdued in comparison to prior efforts, and if you’re interested in jumping into Xeric but not ready for a watch with complex satellite time telling mechanism, the new Artemis Chrono might be your speed. The Artemis Chrono is named for the NASA program that will bring human beings to the lunar surface for the first time since the Apollo missions over 50 years ago. Returning to the moon is an important space travel milestone so it’s no surprise that Xeric would celebrate it with a limited edition release. The basis for the design, according to Xeric, is an updated take on the tachymeter equipped chronograph, which of course is exactly the type of watch that has become famous as the space watch over the last five decades. For the new Artemis Chrono, the bezel has become a focal point and is highlighted with bold colors and has been glass coated to aid in legibility and make the whol...
Fratello
Owning a vintage watch can be an enriching experience. It can also be frustrating and unforgiving when someone brings up an issue or inconsistency. Today’s story is positive, but there were instances of concern. Thankfully, luck entered the picture and produced a happy ending with this Omega Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White. First, it’s important to […] Visit Speedy Tuesday: Unraveling The Mysteries Of My Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 2017 by a group of enthusiasts led by Ming Thein, the Swiss-Malay watch company MING has evolved from a small horological venture into one of the most intriguing independent watchmakers of our time. In 2021, MING introduced the Special Projects Cave, an initiative to foster customer involvement in creating experimental watches while advancing […]
Fratello
This week, Fratello On Air returns with our favorite watches from the ’90s and early ’00s. It’s hard to believe that this period is roughly 30 years old! This was a key era for watches and saw the birth of models that still exist or are highly revered today. Join us as we take a […] Visit Fratello On Air: Our Favorite ’90s And Early ’00s Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
We love to provide proper, useful consumer advice here on Fratello. Unfortunately, I won’t be doing that today. Instead, I’ll be writing about my experience trying on one of my favorite releases of this year, the Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes. This is a watch that, even if you could afford it, isn’t available anymore. I thought […] Visit A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes to read the full article.
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