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Results for Automatic Winding

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Automatic Winding

Self-winding via rotor: Perrelet 1777, Harwood 1922, Rolex Perpetual 1931, micro-rotor 1955.
Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Nov 23, 2019

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition

Characterised by its sleek, modernist form, the Octo Finissimo Automatic was introduced only in 2017 but is arguably the most successful new design in the luxury sports watch category. Its architectural case and bracelet has now been melded with a dial conceived by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, resulting in the most intriguing iteration of the watch to date – the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition. Born in 1941, Tadao Ando is a self-taught architect whose minimalist yet monumental buildings demonstrate his mastery of concrete, geometry and light. Winner of the 1995 Pritzker Prize, Mr Ando’s notable works include the Church of the Light in Osaka; 21_21 Design Sight, a design museum in Tokyo; and most recently a lavender-planted hilltop shrine containing a giant Buddha in Hokkaido. While much of his work is located in his home country, he is also famed for several international projects, including the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth in Texas and 152 Elizabeth, a residential tower in New York City as well as the Cerro Pelon Ranch in New Mexico designed for designer Tom Ford. In the Octo Finissimo Automatic, he relies on simple geometry to create an unusually distinctive dial, with a spiral motif that emanates from the seconds hand, creating the effect of a wave rippling across the dial. Though the pattern is remarkably simple – it is printed in black lacquer on the dial – the effect is striking, especially when contrasted against the harsh, futuristic lines of the c...

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Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches Nov 2, 2019

Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches

This year we were lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the TAG Heuer Monaco. It was in the last year of the 1960s that the brand (just Heuer at the time) released their iconic watch that was one of the first ever automatic chronographs, and was cemented as a legend when it was … ContinuedThe post Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Farer Introduces the Chronograph Hand-Wound SJX Watches
Farer Introduces Oct 23, 2019

Farer Introduces the Chronograph Hand-Wound

Following on the launch of its automatic chronograph a year ago, London-based Farer recently released a new collection of hand-wound chronographs, which are fairly unusual in this price category where automatic chronographs dominate. This time around, it’s more than just a new line as the watches are the official timers of the 2019 Bernina Gran Turismo, a classic car race across the Bernina Pass in the Swiss Alps. Three standard models and one limited edition make up the new Chronograph Hand-Wound line, though the limited edition quickly sold out, and all carry the brand’s DNA with distinctive, retro designs and bold colours. Though the individual models share the same house style, each is detailed differently, right down to the size of the hour numerals, something Farer does for all its mode lines. All models share the same, cushion-shaped stainless steel case measuring 41mm by 12.9mm (and 43mm lug-to-lug). It’s rated to 100m and fitted with a domed sapphire crystal. For contrast, the front and sides are brushed with a polished steel exhibition back, and the pushers are also polished. The knurled crown is steel but topped with a bronze insert embossed with Farer’s logo, a standard feature on all hand-wound Farer watches; other models have a solid bronze crown. Let’s take a closer look at what differentiates the Bernina, Cresta and Moritz chronographs. Bernina Named after the Bernina Gran Turismo – a hillclimbing race around St Moritz for classic cars  – ...

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Zenith Defy Inventor Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Inventor Review Zenith’s Oct 21, 2019

Zenith Defy Inventor Review

Zenith’s reputation for developing groundbreaking technology and movements in their watches have once again been redeemed with the release of the Zenith Defy Inventor. Back in 1969, Zenith first released the El Primero self-winding chronograph movement. To this day after slight tweaks, it is still being used in their El Primero line of watches. The El Primero movement is regarded as one of the finest movements in the watchmaking industry, succeeding in having a high frequency while putting out a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.  In 2017, Zenith once again manufactured a timepiece that would be revolutionary for not only the brand but the watch industry as a whole. The Defy Lab contains what Zenith claims as the world’s most accurate mechanical movement. Operating at 15Hz, the movement in the Defy Lab is much faster than most mechanical watches in the industry, including the brands very own El Primero movement, which operates at roughly 5Hz.  What made the Defy Lab so special was the proprietary “Zenith Oscillator” developed Guy Semon from LMVH. The Zenith Oscillator in a nutshell, takes into consideration real-world scenarios, which includes environmental and temperature changes, vibration and also shocks. The Zenith Defy Lab, however, was limited to a run of 10 “piece unique” watches, which meant that the general public would find it hard to acquire these impressive timepieces.  Fast forward to Baselworld 2019, where Zenith released the Defy Invento...

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Seiko Introduces the Prospex SRQ029 & Presage SRQ031 Chronographs SJX Watches
Breitling Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – Oct 4, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SRQ029 & Presage SRQ031 Chronographs

Nineteen-sixty nine was a watershed year in watchmaking – the culmination of the race for the world’s first automatic chronograph. It was a three-way contest between two Swiss watchmakers and one from Japan. Both Swiss movements – the Zenith El Primero and the Heuer-Breitling-Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – have enjoyed a following to this day, but the third – the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer – remains relatively obscure as it went out of production in 1979. The 6139 was a single-register chronograph with a 30-minute totaliser at six o’clock and a quickset day-date display. Crucially, it had a column wheel and vertical clutch. And an even lesser known fact is that Seiko produced its first chronograph – the “Crown” with a column-wheel and mono-pusher – just five years before, in 1964 to coincide with that year’s Tokyo Olympic Games. In short, the 1960s were a major decade for Seiko in terms of chronographs. The Seiko “Crown” chronograph of 1964 with its characteristic black plastic bezel Hence, to mark the 50th anniversary of its first automatic chronograph, as well as the 55th anniversary of its first chronograph, Seiko has unveiled a pair of limited editions, both chronographs, naturally. The two editions are each limited to 1000 pieces and powered by the same calibre, the in-house cal. 8R48 that was introduced in 2014. The first and the more modern looking of the two, is the Prospex 50th Anniversary Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ029. I...

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Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While Oct 3, 2019

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer

Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...

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Introducing the Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Limited Edition SPB111J1 SJX Watches
Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Oct 1, 2019

Introducing the Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Limited Edition SPB111J1

Since its global debut in 2016, the Seiko Presage collection has quickly gained a following for its dials that feature artisanal decoration, usually executed with traditional Japanese crafts such as urushi lacquer and Arita porcelain, but at strikingly affordable prices. Following the launch of the first Presage with a Spring Drive movement (in the past, automatic or hand-wound movements were the norm) a few months ago, the brand has now unveiled a limited-edition automatic with a deep green dial made of fired, vitreous enamel, otherwise known as grand feu enamel in Swiss watchmaking. Inspired by the colour of Japanese cedar trees, the green enamel dial features applied hour markers – instead of the more common printed or painted markers found on enamel dials – paired with rounded dauphine hands. The dial is once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who work for Fuji Porcelain Enamel Co., Ltd., one of Japan’s biggest makers of enamelware. The company has been Seiko’s go-to supplier for high-quality enamel dials made on a large scale at relatively low cost, a crucial reason why the Presage watches equipped with enamel dials are eminently affordable. As with a majority of automatic Presage models, the case is in stainless steel and measures 40.8mm wide and 12.4mm in height. It’s simply finished with a bright mirror polish on most surfaces, with the top of the lugs brushed for a little contrast and structure. Visible throu...

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Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned Time+Tide
Longines Sep 27, 2019

Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned

Back at the beginning of 2013, as a result of kissing goodbye to a couple of watches (mistakes) from my collection, I found myself in the rather fortunate position of needing a new daily timepiece. The buying criteria was fairly simple and straightforward: the new watch needed to be a diver, automatic, Swiss made and … ContinuedThe post Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Introducing the Badger Islander Wristwatch SJX Watches
Sep 18, 2019

Introducing the Badger Islander Wristwatch

Badger Watches makes it debut on Kickstarter with the Islander, an automatic wristwatch with an interesting tonneau-shaped case. While most tonneau cases are made up of multiple curved lines, the Islander case is composed of several straight lines and flat surfaces, giving it a slightly 1970s vibe. The brand is based in Singapore – a city-state that’s an island – which is where the model name comes from. Affordable watches like the Islander usually work best if most of the effort is concentrated on one element; here the focus is undoubtedly the case. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 48mm long, the case is steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’s stamped from a block of steel, giving it softer edges and corners than if it were milled, but with a price tag of under US$400 that’s more than enough. Four dial colours are available, including one in silver with blue accents that’s a 99-piece limited edition. With only minimal text on the edge, the dials have the same stamped radial motif, along with tapered hands reminiscent of the Marc Newson-designed Ikepod watches. The date window is placed at six o’clock to maintain the symmetry of the dial. The Islander is powered by a Sellita SW200-1, which is a clone of the ETA 2824. A low-cost but robust movement, the SW200 has a shortish 38-hour power reserve. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Height: 11mm Material: Steel Water resistance: 50m Movement: SW200-1 Functions: Hours, minutes, and second; date W...

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Hands-On: Nomos Tangente Neomatik “Red Dot” Limited Editions SJX Watches
Nomos Tangente Neomatik “Red Dot” Sep 17, 2019

Hands-On: Nomos Tangente Neomatik “Red Dot” Limited Editions

Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass has just unveiled yet another limited edition to mark the its 40th year – the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Red Dot. It’s the most affordable anniversary edition yet, and also also the third in the annual “Red Dot” series of watches made for Singapore. Available in four iterations, each limited to just 50 pieces, the limited edition is based on the bestselling Tangente automatic, arguably the quintessential Nomos. It screams, or rather quietly declares, Nomos’ design philosophy of Deutscher Werkbund, the predecessor of Bauhaus, and is characterised by a clean dial with large, alternating hour numerals and a case with thin, angular lugs. While most limited-edition watches from Nomos vary in colour, with subtle, yet profound tweaks to the palette, the new Red Dot quartet departs from the norm in one drastic way: the first pair features Eastern Arabic numerals, while the second has its hours in Chinese oracle bone script. According to The Hour Glass, the use of both scripts is a nod to Singapore’s history as an entrepot where traders from both the Near East and Far East often stopped. All four watches also pay tribute to the country with a small in-joke, with a little red dot at six o’clock – a reference to the city state’s frequent depiction on maps. The Eastern Arabic duo Bone oracle script and the “little red dot” Essentialism First conceived in 1992 by Nomos founder Roland Schwertner, the Tangente...

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Bulgari is well placed to clean up at the GPHG, thanks to these 5 watches Time+Tide
Bulgari Sep 6, 2019

Bulgari is well placed to clean up at the GPHG, thanks to these 5 watches

There’s no doubt that Bulgari like the GPHG. In 2017 they won the men’s category for their Octo Finissimo Automatic and the Tourbillon prize for the Finissimo Skeleton. A few years earlier, in 2014, they took home the Jewellery prize for their Diva High Jewellery Emeralds. Their odds are looking strong for the 2019 edition of … ContinuedThe post Bulgari is well placed to clean up at the GPHG, thanks to these 5 watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s Dream Aug 17, 2019

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement

Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to horology are as numerous as they are fundamental. Practically every avenue of watchmaking is built on the foundations he laid down, from the perpetuelle self-winding mechanism to pare-chute shock-protection for balance pivots. But most famous of all was the tourbillon, patented in 1801. It was crucial to the precision of mechanical pocket watches and clocks, the only kinds of timepieces in use then, which normally sat in an upright, vertical position. The Breguet Souscription pocket watch of the 1990s that replicated the 19th century originals, right down to the pare-chute escapement The tourbillon, however, was not Breguet’s only effort in improving chronometric performance. Prior to the tourbillon, he created the lesser known but more elegant echappement naturel, or natural escapement, in 1789. It was a double-wheel chronometer escapement that in theory, needed no oil. Breguet managed to incorporate it into just 20 pocket watches, but serial production of the natural escapement ultimately eluded him as its design had inherent shortcomings – primarily backlash in the motion of its wheels – that made it impossible to commercialise. The idea was ahead of its time, and it would take some 200 years before technology made the natural escapement feasible. The concept of natural escapements continues to fascinate watchmakers, many of whom have conceived modern-day descendants, the most recent of which is the Ch...

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Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out? Time+Tide
Aug 10, 2019

Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out?

When a name renowned for its personalisation of higher-end pieces announces an off-the-shelf offering, it tends to raise eyebrows. However, the Bamford brand has defied expectations not once, but twice, now with the Bamford London GMT. Housing the self-winding Sellita SW330-1 25, it has already been widely pointed out that the Bamford GMT case and … ContinuedThe post Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Seiko 5 is alive – again Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Aug 7, 2019

The Seiko 5 is alive – again

For decades, the Seiko 5 collection has been some of the best-value mechanical watchmaking on the planet. The ability to buy an automatic watch with an in-house movement for only a few hundred dollars must be responsible for introducing tens of thousands of people around the world to watches. You would be hard-pressed to find … ContinuedThe post The Seiko 5 is alive – again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
Zenith A Star Through Time” Aug 5, 2019

Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore

Created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the automatic chronograph movement that’s synonymous with Zenith, A Star Through Time embarks on world tour that starts in August, with the first stop being Singapore. Happening during the exhibition is a panel discussion that includes our founder, Su Jiaxian, as well as several watchmaking classes – details on how to attend are at the bottom. The exhibition The key attraction of A Star Through Time is an interactive, virtual tour of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle. It’s modelled on Le Monde Étoilé de Zenith, a collaboration between the watchmaker and Neuchâtel’s local tourism authority. Conceived to boost knowledge of watchmaking in the area, the project created a interactive, 360° experience that allows guests to go behind-the-scenes at the manufacture. Walking through the exhibition is akin to a stroll through a scaled down version of the Le Locle manufacture, including a virtual visit to the famous attic where, during the Quartz Crisis, watchmaker Charles Vermot hid the tools and plans to produce the El Primero, keeping them out of the hands of American managers who wanted to eliminate production of mechanical watches. The 400m2 exhibition also traces the evolution of the El Primero, illustrated by significant El Primero-powered watches, including the landmark early examples like the A386 in steel and G381 in 18k gold. Though dedicated to the El Primero, arguably the first ever sel...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Daymatic “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 2, 2019

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Daymatic “25th Anniversary”

The gradual, one-a-month rollout of the 10-piece A. Lange & Söhne 25th anniversary is, fortunately, almost at an end, with number eight just being unveiled: the Lange 1 Daymatic “25th Anniversary”. Launched 16 years after the Lange 1, the Lange 1 Daymatic was an exercise in practicality, being the first watch in the family to be powered by a self-winding movement, the cal. L021.1. And it also included a day of the week indicator, in addition to the date. A splitting image of the original Though functionally different, it was a mirror image likeness the original Lange 1, featuring the familiar asymmetric dial, but inverted. A retrograde display for the day of the week replaced the power reserve of the original. Not only does the Daymatic look like the original, it also has the same dimension, and even retains the pusher for the date at 10 o’clock. But despite the upgrades, the Daymatic has never been as popular as the original Lange 1, leaving it as the least known of the line-up. The new Daymatic is the commemorative, white gold rendition of the model. At 39mm in diameter and 10.4mm high, it is just 1mm wider and 0.6mm thicker than the standard Lange 1. And, in keeping with the anniversary colour theme, it features a solid silver, argenté dial with recessed, grained segments that’s paired with blued steel hands. Instead of the applied hour markers found on the standard Daymatic, the Roman numerals and indices are printed in blue. Visible through the ...

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Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ref. 4300V SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ref Jul 31, 2019

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ref. 4300V

Vacheron Constantin’s sports luxury line-up is a diverse one, including a world time, dual time, and chronograph. The most appealing models in the range, however, are unquestionably the Ultra-Thins, which are unfortunately only available in 18k gold, making them the most expensive. But they are slim, sharply executed and sit beautifully on the wrist. The collection includes two ultra-thin models, the time-only Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V. Both share the same base movement, and nearly identical dimensions; close your eyes and it’s difficult to tell the two apart on the wrist. But this story is only about the top of the line perpetual calendar. Cutting an elegant figure The perpetual calendar looks like all other Overseas watches, with the trademark bottle cap bezel and sloping case sides. But it is the most elegant of them all despite being a largish watch. It is exceptionally refined in profile – the case is 41.5mm in diameter, but just 8.10mm high. The elegant proportions are similar to those of the luxury sports watch greats, namely the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Because the watch is available only in 18k white or pink gold, it weighs enough to feel as expensive as it is. The weight is reassuring, and an important quality. Put simply, it’s a big, flat and heavy watch, which is what a luxury sports watch should be. Though the perpetual calendar is available in pink gold on a leather or rubber st...

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The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch Time+Tide
Bulgari Roma watch Editor’s note Jul 27, 2019

The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch

Editor’s note: This year, the Bulgari watch department celebrated its fifth year in a row of record-breaking watches with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. While some in the watch industry are still coming to terms with the horological success of a brand with roots in jewellery, Bulgari have actually been making watches since 1975. … ContinuedThe post The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Jul 25, 2019

Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase

Editor’s pick: If you’re in the market for a massive, 45mm manually winding dress watch with more power than you can shake a mainspring at, we think the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase might just be up your alley …  Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I’ve got … ContinuedThe post Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith Heuer et al or Jul 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph

Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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