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Results for Caliber 0100

1,512 articles · 459 videos found · page 58 of 66

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Thin “Black Gold Flux” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 7, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Thin “Black Gold Flux”

Unusually for a brand typically associated with robustly-constructed complicated watches, A. Lange & Söhne is unveiling its second ultra-thin wristwatch for the year, the Saxonia Thin “Black Gold Flux”. A limited edition of 50 watches, the new Saxonia Thin is fitted with a dial coated in “black gold flux”, more commonly known as aventurine glass. It’s powered by the hand-wind L093.1, the same calibre found in the 1815 Thin “Homage to F.A. Lange” launched three months ago. Initial thoughts Lange debuted its first aventurine-glass dial in 2018 with a Saxonia Thin that had a “copper blue”. A departure from the brand’s typical look, the sparkly dial gave a somewhat plain dial a lively, striking appearance. Arguably ideal for a dress watch because of its subtle nature, the aventurine-glass dial looks unadorned at a distance, but reveals the glittering metallic flecks up close and under the right light. It’s a useful variation of Lange’s house style that manages to be different in a discreet manner, while still being formal. Venetian glass Measuring 40 mm but standing only 6.2 mm high, the Saxonia Thin appears slightly larger than it is due to its proportions. The new dial should reduce its perceived size somewhat, since darker dials typically appear smaller. The dial is covered in aventurine glass, also known as goldstone, which is essentially glass with crystalline metallic inclusions that give it a characteristic sparkly finish. Invented by Vene...

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary Deployant
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Dec 3, 2020

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary

The latest co-creation between TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department, the world’s ultimate hub for personalised luxury, is an exclusive Aquaracer timepiece equipped with the Calibre 5 Automatic movement and limited to 1,500 pieces. Press release information with editorial commentary in italics. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Reference WAY208F.BF0638 is available now. Retail S$5,500Read More

Grand Seiko Introduces the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-Creation SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre which Nov 24, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-Creation

Announced alongside the exceptional but exorbitant Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Re-Creation (ref. SBGW260) is a hand-wound remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960, the first-ever Grand Seiko. And it is a Grand Seiko, but commemorates the 140 years since the founding of Seiko. Notably, its in 18k rose gold, a metal that’s rarely used by Grand Seiko. And although the 9S64 movement inside is an existing calibre, it’s finished more elaborately compared to earlier versions of the movement. Initial thoughts Being a faithful remake, the SBGW260 has the same appeal as the vintage-original Grand Seiko “First”. Although the colour scheme is unusual for a Grand Seiko – this is the first 3180 remake, and one of the few Grand Seikos, in rose gold – the warm palette suits the vintage style. But more notable is the movement upgrade in terms of decoration. Though still the same workhorse 9S64 found in all remakes of the “First”, the movement has been dressed up blued screws and straight graining on the bridges – plus a solid-gold plate for the anniversary – giving it a look usually associated with higher-end Seiko watches, but is increasingly being rolled out across the price spectrum. It isn’t quite the haute horlogerie finish found on movements made at the Micro Artist Studio, but the decoration appears comparable to Swiss brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is to say it’s fine but workmanlike. And while it is hearte...

Hands-on review: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Deployant
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” DEPLOYANT Oct 24, 2020

Hands-on review: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

A timepiece shrouded in mystery. Its existence has eluded collectors and Zenith  collaborators alike for decades. As the legend goes, in 1970, not long after Zenith debuted  the groundbreaking El Primero calibre, the manufacture had produced a prototype of a manual-winding chronograph, housed in a blackened steel case – a rarity for the time. Only Read More

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Sep 8, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph

Having relied on external suppliers for its chronograph movements since the very beginning, Richard Mille has just unveiled its first in-house chronograph calibre in the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph. Ironically, the “Lifestyle” model name doesn’t do justice to the new CRMC1 movement within. Like most high-end chronographs, the CRMC1 has a column wheel as the one-off switch for the stopwatch, but in a novel twist, it has a pair of oscillating pinions to connect the chronograph wheels to the timekeeping gear train. Initial thoughts Richard Mille’s bestselling chronograph is the RM 11, which is powered by a modular calibre made up of a Vaucher base and a Dubois-Depraz module, making it uninteresting from a technical perspective. The new RM 72-01 is the opposite: it’s powered by a new movement that features a patented construction for the chronograph. Though the innovation in the movement is incremental – essentially reinterpreting existing ideas – it is still original. At the same time, the RM 72-01 is a notably compact watch for a sports chronograph, which should leave it sitting low on the wrist. In fact, the wearability of the RM 72-01 should trump the already excellent ergonomics of most Richard Mille watches. And perhaps most surprising is the price. It costs about the same as the RM 11, but boasts a clearly superior, proprietary movement. Even though the RM 72-01 is an extremely expensive watch – the base model costs about US$185,000 – it...

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Aug 27, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597

Endowed with an unmistakable aesthetic, the Breguet Tradition is based on the souscription calibre made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796. Arguably the pioneer with the open-dial design that exposes the movement, the Tradition’s construction allows for creativity even with basic complications, like a retrograde seconds for instance. The new Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 continues with the overarching theme of the line. Based on the Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the 7597 does away with the seconds display and instead installed an oversized retrograde date complication. Initial thoughts I find the Tradition aesthetic unique and charming, thanks to the characteristic, exposed movement construction that can seem haphazardly arranged at times. Despite the angular and geometric shapes of the bridges, most of them are trapezoidal in shape with few parallel edges, bestowing a more organic appearance to the highly mechanical appearance. While a conventional date window is mundane, the retrograde date elevates the complication both visually and mechanically. Retrograde displays are often encountered in Breguet watches – something that started with A.-L. Breguet himself – and are typically done well, both stylistically and technically. The Tradition 7597 is, in short, an attractively designed watch that sticks to Breguet’s tradition strengths in design and mechanics, while offering a useful complication executed in an elegant manner. Tradition restyled The 759...

TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Aug 19, 2020

TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Hands-on Review

As part of Tag Heuer’s 160th-anniversary celebration Tag Heuer recently released four new flagship models. These new models will join the brands existing Evergreen collection. The four new models are different variants of the Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02. This new model is based on the brand’s iconic 1963 racing chronograph “the Carrera” and has been updated with modern styling and performance.  The original 1963 Carrera model was presented as a “race-car dashboard for the wrist”. This watch at the time reflected Jack Heuer’s passion for racing and what was required for drivers to achieve better lap times during racing events. Jack Heuer’s interest in motorsport rose when he heard the story of the iconic Carrera Panamericana race. The Carrera Panamericana race was like no other. It was a 2096-mile-long border-to-border race across Mexico. Drivers would have to face harsh conditions and treacherous desert landscape, all the while travelling at 100mph (+). The race has arguably one of the highest mortality rates per race in the history of motorsport racing, leaving 27 drivers dead. The race lasted only five years and stopped in 1954.  Jack Heuer designed the very first Tag Heuer Carrera as he took inspiration from the Carrera Panamericana race and its legendary status along with the courage and bravery showed by the drivers to tackle the unforgiving conditions. The original Carrera model was designed with dial elements that would serve to improve the ...

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Jul 30, 2020

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review

Earlier in February this year, Raymond Weil unveiled the latest edition in their Freelancer collection. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is now available in a green version. Raymond Weil has previously released the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in different colour variants, which include; blue dial, black dial, rose-gold edition and a black dial with rose gold indices and hands.  So what makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 model unique to Raymond Weil? It all comes down to the movement used to create this timepiece. Before the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 came along, Raymond Weil used all outsourced movements in their watches. That was until back in 2017, when Raymond Weil created an exclusive in-house movement in collaboration with Sellita. Sellita, as many may know, is the Swiss movement manufacturer that makes movements for brands around the world.  The development team at Raymond Weil worked together with the designers at Sellita for a period of roughly 18-months, to come up with Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement. Although not entirely in-house, it is still quite a feat for one of the few remaining watch companies that are still family-owned since their establishment.  To mark this momentous occasion for the brand, with the movement being a testament to over 40 years of beautiful Swiss watch-making traditions and expertise, Raymond Weil decided to name the calibre after the brand’s Swiss origins. The 1212 in the movement’s name refers back to the postal code of Ray...

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport Jul 10, 2020

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes

Much like a car manufacturer does when it designs a brand new engine, TAG Heuer are making sure that their flagship self-winding chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, finds its way into every chrono they’ve released this year. And just days after letting us know that their three in-demand limited edition chronographs equipped with the … ContinuedThe post The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Dame 7038 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jul 2, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Dame 7038

Based on the souscription calibre created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the Tradition is characterised by an open, symmetrical movement layout and an off-centered time display. The distinctive look has made it one of Breguet’s modern-day hits, though most variants of the Tradition have been watches for men. The latest Tradition Dame 7038 adds to the compact line-up of Tradition watches for ladies. Exclusive to boutiques, the Tradition Dame 7038 combines a dark, iridescent Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial with a deep-brown movement treatment. And unusually for Breguet, the watch is delivered with a matching clutch bag. Initial thoughts The off-centered, Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial was the first thing that caught my attention when this arrived in my inbox. With enigmatic colours that shimmer and vary between violet and green, Tahitian mother-of-pearl never fails to be captivating. Obtained from black-lipped oysters around Tahiti and French Polynesia, they are much rarer compared to white mother-of-pearls as was featured in the first Tradition Dame 7038, making this more appealing, not just for its colour but also the material. The brown undertones of the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial are complemented by the brown treatment of the frosted finish on the movement and the rose gold case. In typical Breguet style, the mother-of-pear dial is finished in clous de paris engine-turning, a decorative touch that is tradition and always welcome as it adds visual interest to the ...

Corum Introduces the Lab 02 SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Jun 15, 2020

Corum Introduces the Lab 02

While Corum’s high-end watchmaking is typically associated with the tiny Golden Bridge movement, the brand’s latest creation is a surprisingly intriguing calibre with a novel construction. The Lab 02 is a tourbillon with vertical power reserve and double-disc date – entirely constructed as a “flying”, or “floating”, movement. Almost all of the wheels are secured only on one side, leaving them seemingly suspended in midair. Initial thoughts The Lab 02 has a genuinely interesting movement inside. A “flying” construction is not new, but it is usually applied to a key parts, like the barrel or tourbillon, for aesthetic effect or to keep the movement as slim as possible. Here the whole movement is flying, which results in a strikingly airy mechanical landscape. In fact, the Lab 02 is essentially a more complex execution of the concept behind the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Because of its construction, the movement is large, which means the watch is huge – 45 mm wide and 13.4 mm high. But it is a necessity due to the mechanics and probably enhances the visual effect of the movement construction. Harder to swallow is the price of 180,00 Swiss francs that puts the Lab 02 in a price segment where many well-established haute horlogerie brands compete. That’s especially so given the movement finishing appears adequate (neat and clean but mostly done with mechanical means) rather than excellent. Admittedly, most other watches in the price segme...

Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys SJX Watches
May 29, 2020

Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys

A Singapore-based “micro brand”, Zelos Watches has found success with affordable sports watches, mostly priced at about US$1,000 or less, but often incorporating unusual materials such as carbon fibre or meteorite. But in a significant departure from its usual fare, Zelos has just unveiled the Mirage, a flying tourbillon powered by a calibre made by a noted Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret. With the case options including Timascus and mokume-gane, which are pattern-welded titanium and bronze respectively, the Mirage certainly sticks to the brand’s design ethos of exotic materials. Initial thoughts While it’s not surprising that the Mirage is substantially more expensive than Zelos’ past models, it is still good value for a watch featuring both a respectable tourbillon movement and an exotic-metal case. The case is sleek and modern, machined to create sharp, wide facets that give it an aggressive stance and complement the contemporary look of the movement. Of the three case materials on offer, the Timascus versions are the most intriguing. Typically found in high-end custom knives, Timascus is being used in a watch for the first time according to Zelos. Flying tourbillon In terms of complications, the Mirage is a radical departure from the brand’s previous offerings. Powered by a skeletonised flying tourbillon movement from La Joux-Perret, the Mirage enters the realm of technical horology. The movement is hand-wound, with its bridges and base plate coate...

IWC Portugieser Chronograph (reference 371609) Review WatchAdvice
IWC Portugieser Chronograph reference 371609 May 20, 2020

IWC Portugieser Chronograph (reference 371609) Review

Introduction Clipping shut the deployant buckle of the just-refreshed IWC Portugieser Chronograph; it’s easy to see why this is one of the brand’s most popular watches, in Australia at least. It’s dressy, but still offers a healthy dose of sports functionality. What makes this new reference, announced back in February, even better the movement beating away inside. For the first time, it’s an IWC-manufactured calibre, and while it can’t be seen on the wrist, or make much of a difference to daily wear, it still feels like a significant step up. The Dial and Hands  The face of the Portugieser Chronograph is refreshingly familiar, thanks to that iconic combination of applied Arabic numerals and leaf (or feuille) shaped hands. The chronograph layout puts a minutes register at the top and a running seconds display at six. I’m more familiar with the white-dialled version of the Portugieser so was happy to give the black a try. And boy, is this dial black. The colour is incredibly deep and dynamic; if you catch it on the right angle, it takes on a blue-ish sheen around the edges. I must say that, because of the dark dial and the slender, highly polished hands and hour markers, legibility was a bit of an issue at times. Still, the overall beauty made me forget about that fact almost immediately.  IWC Portugieser Chronograph Reference 371609 The Case and Strap  At 41mm, this watch is sized just right. The steel case sits well on the wrist, flush and, even though it is...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces May 18, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm

The new quartet of Royal Oak models marks a first for Audemars Piguet – the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm combines a 34 mm case with an automatic calibre supplied by movement specialist Vaucher. An addition to the line that is not meant to replace any existing model, the new 34 mm watch is now the smallest mechanical Royal Oak for ladies, with the smallest, 33 mm model being quartz, and the next-largest automatic having a 37 mm case. Initial thoughts The new watch fills a gap in the diverse Royal Oak line-up – a watch compact enough for ladies but with a mechanical movement. While the new 34 mm model is not explicitly described as a women’s watch, it is in all but name, as Audemars Piguet already has a 37 mm model as the medium-sized men’s Royal Oak. That said, the proportions of the 34 mm case remind me of the Royal Oak ref. 4100 of the 1970s and 1980s, which was then a large-sized men’s watch and 36 mm in diameter, not too much larger than the new model. By that benchmark, the new 34 mm model should not be a ladies’ watch per se, and could appeal to men who prefer a smaller case size. But for the broader market, it is a ladies’ watch, and I can see its appeal. Importantly, it has a mechanical movement – long absent for the ladies’ Royal Oak – and the versions with the diamond-set bezels offer a bit of bling to go along with the iconic design. So it should attract a new female customer who has always wanted a Royal Oak, but was savvy enough to wait fo...

F.P. Journe Introduces the New Chronomètre à Résonance SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Apr 28, 2020

F.P. Journe Introduces the New Chronomètre à Résonance

Since its launch in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance has perhaps become the quintessential F.P. Journe wristwatch. Still the only wristwatch to rely on the principle of resonance – omitting any mechanical means of transmission – the Résonance has been revamped and improved for its 20th anniversary. While the Résonance was powered by essentially the same calibre (the cal. 1499 in several generations) for its first two decades, the new Chronomètre à Résonance is equipped with the brand-new cal. 1520. Several features set the new movement apart from its predecessor, most notably the use of a single barrel and a remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism in each going train. Initial thoughts Having learnt a little about the new Résonance from hints dropped by Mr Journe in the past, I was looking forward to this – and the watch lives up to expectations. The basics of the new model are no surprise, since Mr Journe had let on that the movement will incorporate his signature remontoir. The upgrades to the new movement are sensible both in terms of function and timekeeping. Relying on a single barrel eliminates the finicky and occasionally unreliable double-barrel winding mechanism of the original movement. But the remontoir installed in each going train is the crucial upgrade as it optimises the going trains before and after the escapement. In the original Resonance movement, both balance wheels oscillate at an identical amplitude at any one time, but the am...

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Apr 24, 2020

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42

Now 15 years old, the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar was almost always a 44.2 mm watch powered by a 7-day automatic movement (though IWC installed the same movement in the smaller, 42.3 mm ref. 5022 for several years). For Watches & Wonders 2020, IWC debuts the all-new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 that’s simpler and far more affordable. Instead of the long-standing 7-day calibre, the Perpetual Calendar 42 is powered by a simpler but nevertheless robust movement with a more conventional 60-hour power reserve. The new calibre is also thinner, resulting in a case just 13.8 mm high, versus 14. 9 mm before. And as the model name implies, the Perpetual Calendar 42 has a 42.4 mm case, which is available in pink gold, or stainless steel – a first for the regular collection. Until now, with the exception of a 2014 limited edition, IWC has only ever offered the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar with a gold or platinum case. All of that means making the perpetual calendar is significantly more affordable – the steel version costs half of the 7-day model in 18k gold. An unusual perpetual While the dial retains the traditional perpetual calendar configuration with three sub-dials for the calendar – making it cleaner and more legible the the 7-day version – it also includes a central seconds hand, which is extremely uncommon on a perpetual calendar watch. Functionally, the perpetual calendar is similar but simplified as compared to the 7-day iteration. As with all IWC...

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Apr 20, 2020

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon

Since Louis Vuitton acquired complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT) in 2012, the trunk maker has made impressive strides in its haute horlogerie. The newly launched Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève encapsulates Louis Vuitton’s complicated watchmaking – confident, modern styling combined with a first-rate calibre. Granted, the Tambour Curve is pricey – US$250,000 pricey – but it is clearly catered for a specific consumer. That buyer wants an ultra-high end, contemporary, and slightly sporty watch, the type of watch found in the segment dominated by Richard Mille and Hublot. But Louis Vuitton has executed the Tambour Curve extremely well, creating an appealing – and importantly, cohesively designed – wristwatch that is more than just looks. The LV 108 movement inside was developed and made by LFDT, which is led by veteran watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both of whom I hold in very high regard. Louis Vuitton long-term strategy in developing its watchmaking – essentially do it well and expensively – is demonstrated by the quality of the Tambour Curve. The brand could have gotten away with building a so-so watch, just because it is Louis Vuitton. But it didn’t, and the Tambour Curve exhibits a notable level of attention to detail in styling and craft. CarboStratum The Tambour Curve is a big watch with a streamlined, rounded form that is almost organic. Not only is the case round, its flanks are concave, whil...

IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part II, the Spring Drives Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Movements – Part II Mar 21, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part II, the Spring Drives

If you haven’t yet read Part I, find the full article right here.  This year, to mark its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko has introduced two new movements, representing each of the brand’s two pillars: Calibre 9RA5 is a Spring Drive movement while Calibre 9SA5 is a traditional mechanical movement. These are entirely new movements, with every … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part II, the Spring Drives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.