Hodinkee
Collector Profile: Stefan Molin
A Swedish collector tells us how his love of design and passion for detail inevitably compelled him to become a die-hard Grand Seiko collector.
4,213 articles · 147 videos found · page 58 of 146
Hodinkee
A Swedish collector tells us how his love of design and passion for detail inevitably compelled him to become a die-hard Grand Seiko collector.
Fratello
This year, at Watches and Wonders 2026, Parmigiani Fleurier arrived armed with a host of new releases to celebrate 30 years as a brand. Unlike many watches from other marques, though, these pieces are not modernized renditions of prior watches. Instead, as we’ll see, they offer hand-finished dials and precious metals, aside from but also […] Visit Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Why is it that there are some watches we just kind of forget about? I think we’ve all experienced this right? We encounter a watch that really works, feels special, rave about to other collectors and, if you’re able, maybe even think about how you might acquire one (side note: that is definitely not the situation I find myself in with respect to the watches we’ll be discussing here). For whatever reason, the Zenith G.F.J. found itself in that category for me. Last year, when I saw the first G.F.J., I think I probably verbalized to someone that it was the best thing I saw at Watches & Wonders 2025. I thought about it for weeks. I considered how it felt so much more handmade and specialized than any of the other new Zenith watches I’ve seen, which were mostly reminders that Zenith is a huge brand that needs to cast a wide net. And that’s the case again this year. The headline release for the brand this year is a new series of Chronomaster Sport references with skeleton dials. They are very nice watches, but tread familiar ground. We’ve seen countless iterations of the Chronomaster Sport at this point, and transitioning to skeleton dials after a period of time is part of the Zenith playbook. The G.F.J. collection, by contrast, feels unpredictable and outside the bounds of the usual Zenith strategy. These are high end watches that take advantage of exotic materials and precious metals, and have more in common with many haute horlogerie indies, at least on the s...
SJX Watches
Tudor’s bestseller just got a new update. The new Black Bay 58 builds upon last year’s burgundy version, coming in the beloved black dial with gilt accents configuration. Not only did the iconic vintage-inspired diver get slimmer and better proportioned, but it also come with a choice of three different straps. Initial thoughts Ever since Tudor was rejuvenated the brand became almost synonymous with the well-built and equally well-styled Black Bay collection. The model line grew to include various complications, from GMT functions to chronographs all while retaining the core vintage-coded aesthetic. This streamlined “BB58” format was first introduced in 2024 with the Black Bay 58 GMT. The watch featured sleeker case proportions, a METAS-certified movement and a slimmer, more practical crown. A burgundy version of the time-only Black Bay then followed and now Tudor adapts arguably their most iconic configuration to this updated format. Due to its proportions, overall construction and colour scheme the watch strongly resembles the vintage Rolex Ref. 6538. The watch was famously worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in the first ever Bond movie, Dr. No. Tudor’s new case proportions work so well with the vintage-inspired black and gilt dial that the new reference is guaranteed to be a big hit with Bond fans. Notably, the new Black Bay 58 comes with a choice of two steel bracelets and a rubber strap. Apart from the Oyster-inspired faux-rivet three-link bracelet ...
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Parmigiani celebrates the 30th anniversary of the founding this year. Here is our highlight for WWG26 as we got our hands-on, and as usual with our live products. First up Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux. Read our commentary with the release details. This chronograph looks like a three hand time only watch, replete with the standard [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases from Parmigiani appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet launches the Atelier des Établisseurs, an ambitious project that resurrects the collaborative “établissage” system of late 18th-century watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux. Marking a novel way for the brand to produce remarkable watches using time-honoured traditional crafts, the Atelier des Établisseurs is a twofold enterprise that fosters creativity and collaboration while preserving […]
Worn & Wound
Deep in the heart of a primeval forest lies a waterfall whose fresh spring waters are unspoilt by man, and whose mystic beauty is an endless source of inspiration - for the band of artisans who quietly engrave by hand some of the most intricately detailed watches in the world. It’s not a Studio Ghibli movie: the Tateshina Falls are real, located in central Japan’s Nagano Prefecture, which is also home to Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio. And at Watches and Wonders 2026, a limited release pays tribute to this serene locale with a Spring Drive model that, according to Grand Seiko, “conveys time’s eternal flow in nature.” The Masterpiece Collection SBGZ011 takes Grand Seiko’s sharp-edged 44GS case - rendered in platinum - and imbues it with hand-engraved lines from lug to lug, around the bezel, and entirely within the dial (save for a thin minute ring). These dashed silver lines flow in colliding swirls, bursting forth and blending into each other with seeming chaos; Grand Seiko suggests that they represent spring water bubbling forth from below the earth’s surface. On the bezel and the case’s flat surfaces and intersecting ridges, the patterns appear even more dramatic, resembling petals of a monochromatic flower. And on the dial, the white-gold hands and markers provide smooth, brilliant contrast, while the Grand Seiko and Spring Drive logos are carved and inset in their own boxes. The manual-winding Caliber 9R02 is Grand Seiko’s thinnest Spri...
Time+Tide
Bulagri brings the most noble of the precious metals to its most astounding thin watch with a new Octo Finissimo Ulta TourbillonThe post Bulgari ups the ante with new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon in full Platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Reverso has lent itself to artistic expression quite naturally. Since its creation in 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s reversible case has provided a perfect canvas for decoration, engraving and enamel work. In recent years, the Manufacture and its Métiers Rares atelier used this possibility extensively and offered tributes to the Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai. Following earlier interpretations […]
Worn & Wound
IWC is not a brand that quickly moves on from a release. Rather, any new watch is also the launch of a platform that will, for several years at least, see new models in terms of colors, sizes, materials, and complications. In doing so, their catalog is vast yet focused, as each line is thematic yet deeply explored. Since relaunching in 2023, the Genta-derived, integrated bracelet, luxury tool watch that is the Ingenieur has steadily expanded to now cover three sizes, multiple materials, many colors, and one complication, totaling 12 SKUs (before Watches & Wonders releases). For 2026, the expansion continues with several new references, including a tourbillon, and two models that kind of blew me away. I had the fortune of getting to spend some time with IWC’s 2026 novelties before the big show, and while several are striking (I mean, that full Ceralume perpetual is one of the most bonkers watches I’ve seen in a while), the two that I have kept thinking about are the Ingenieur automatic in green ceramic, and the full titanium perpetual. Starting with the former, IWC is no stranger to ceramic. In fact, they debuted the first ceramic watch in 1986. While many brands have adopted the material since, IWC’s earthy palette of green, khaki, and blue retains a certain understated charm. The 42mm Ingenieur has existed in black ceramic for at least a year now. While sleek, stealthy, and a logical edition, it wasn’t all too surprising. The full green ceramic, however, is a bit....
SJX Watches
Tudor celebrates 100 years and marks the occasion by launching the dressy Monarch. A more obscure model in the brand’s catalogue, the original Monarch was retired during the early 2000s. The model makes its return, with an emphasis on movement finishing and quality. Initial Thoughts It is no secret that Tudor had their fair share of hit and misses in terms of design, especially during the ‘90s. The original Monarch was an unfortunate blend of sporty and elegant elements, which resulted in a rather unappealing and mostly forgotten product. The new Monarch fortunately has almost nothing to do with his ancestor, save for the name. The new timepiece reimagines the beloved if quirky California dial, improves greatly in terms of movement finishing and manages to blend well both classy and sporty elements. At first sight one might be tempted to assume the Monarch is a dress timepiece, but elements like the metal link bracelet, angular overall profile and screw-down crown give it a sporty, rugged edge. Tudor made an interesting choice with the dial colour, going for a coarsely brushed sand-hued piece paired with black applied indices. The California configuration paired with the small seconds at 6 o’clock is dressy, but the angular case makes for a thoroughly sporty look. The specific case shape is vintage-coded but benefits from modern execution techniques. The new bracelet shape is a welcome departure from Tudor’s usual Oyster-inspired straps and fits in wel...
Monochrome
When Zenith brought back the legendary Calibre 135 last year in the G.F.J. collection, it was a tribute to its 160-year history. Also, it signalled the return of one of the most celebrated chronometer movements. Now, the brand expands the collection with two new G.F.J interpretations: a tantalum edition with an onyx dial and diamonds, […]
SJX Watches
To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch. The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch. Initial thoughts The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within. While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective. The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end - though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike. Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right. That said, while it makes sense for Chopar...
Teddy Baldassarre
It's the start of Watches & Wonders 2026, and Rolex has announced their newest additions to their catalog. New dials, new metals, new exclusive references and even a new movement. Watch the video to find out what's new for this year at Rolex
Hodinkee
A new black obsidian dial and 15-link bracelet upscale the LM size model, available in yellow gold and platinum.
SJX Watches
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion. One is a sombre 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary model (Ref. 134303) which blends gold with steel and the other is a playful 36 mm Jubilee Dial (Ref. 126000) which focuses on colour and patterns. Initial thoughts Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago. This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters printed in vivid colours make for a look that is split between vintage inspired and excessively modern. This Oyster...
SJX Watches
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion: the Oyster Perpetual 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary (ref. 134303) in an unusual blend of gold and steel, and the playful Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee Dial” that’s all about colour and patterns with a dial reminiscent of the works of Alighiero Boetti (and is available in 41 mm, 36 mm, and 36 mm variants). Initial thoughts Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago. This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters pri...
Monochrome
If there was the Black Bay Ceramic “One” (Only Watch) in 2019, the story of the Black Bay in Ceramic really started in 2021 with a watch that was then the first METAS-certified Tudor. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, we now get a full ceramic rendition of the model, fitted for the […]
Monochrome
Among other watches presented in Geneva this week, Cartier unveils a new interpretation of one of the brand’s celebrated models, the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, to expand its highly desirable Cartier Privé collection. Following the model’s praised return in 2024, the brand introduces a platinum edition with a dial inspired by the Collection Privée Cartier Paris […]
Hodinkee
A project from the Audemars Piguet Department of Heritage brings three unique time-telling objects to Watches and Wonders.
SJX Watches
This year’s Watches & Wonders got off with a strong start. Rolex unveiled a number of new models, with a strong accent on novel materials and precious metals. A first for the sporty landmark chronograph, the new Cosmograph Daytona comes with an enamelled dial. Initial thoughts Rolex is known in modern times for their mastery of both industrialised mechanical watchmaking and sound material science. The new Daytona is a product of the latter - it benefits from a new sort of ceramic bezel and notably a white enamel dial done a bit differently. At first sight, the new model reminds of the “Porcelain” Zenith-powered Daytonas. A sought-after configuration of pre-2000 Daytonas, the “Porcelain” was nicknamed as such due to the glossy finished white dial, which carried some resemblance to classic porcelain. Among Rolex’s most beloved models, the Daytona has seen a fair share of makeovers over the years. Most special editions took advantage of the motorsport heritage of the chronograph and others added gems and precious alloys to the mix. The main selling point of this latest Daytona configuration is the enamel dial - a classic element which doesn’t normally connect to Rolex or to sports watches in general. What Rolex successfully did was raise the appeal of the Daytona beyond just a sports chronograph, without resorting to any loud gem setting or full precious metal construction. Instead, the brand opted for a quiet (but modern) enamel and a new bezel configurat...
Teddy Baldassarre
A sleek take on the two-tone format joins the ranks, with 100 anniversary details to boot. More
Fratello
With the introduction of the Cubitus collection in late 2024, Patek Philippe established a new design language built around a square case with rounded corners and an integrated, sporty-leaning aesthetic. The initial trio of large-format references focused on time-and-date functionality. Then, smaller models in precious metals arrived in 2025. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 to read the full article.
Monochrome
With the Reference 5249R-001 “The Fox and the Crow”, Patek Philippe presents the first automaton of its modern history. Showcasing rare handcrafts and displaying the hours and minutes on demand, this poetic wristwatch is the reinterpretation of one of the treasures of the Patek Philippe Museum, a pocket watch from 1958. At the press of […]
Time+Tide
An update to the dressy pilot's watch from Cartier brings a slinky new bracelet and a deep stone dial option.The post Cartier releases new large Santos-Dumont models with metal bracelets and in-house mechanical movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin has gently updated one of its most distinctive time-only watches, the Historiques American 1921. Now kitted out with a silver grained dial, the 1921 retains its characteristic dial layout, along with blue Breguet numerals and hands. Like its predecessor, the new 1921 is also available in two sizes, 36.5 mm and 40 mm, but only in pink gold for now. Initial thoughts Ordinarily, cosmetic variations would not be that interesting, but the 1921 has not been iterated upon too often, despite being almost 20 years old. In fact, the 1921 is a fixture in the VC catalogue, yet has varied little given its tenure. As a result, the facelifted model is appealing and also arrives in a timely manner. Though the changes are subtle, namely to the dial texture plus hand and numeral colour, they give the dial a little more life. The updates also make the watch feel a little more modern, but the result still sits comfortably with the historical design. A driver’s watch Sometimes known as a “driver’s watch” for its off-the-vertical dial layout, the 1921 was modelled a small number of watches made by VC in 1919 and subsequent years. The unusual dial alignment was reputedly to improve legibility while driving, or while preaching at the pulpit for one of the owners of the 1920s originals was an American clergyman. The latest version retains the same design and layout as past iterations, with the dial 45 degrees off the vertical and the crown at two o’clock. Instead of a...
Time+Tide
Cartier relaunches the Roadster in Medium and Large sizes, spanning seven new references in a mixture of metals.The post Cartier’s driving watch is gone from the rear-view mirror: the Roadster is back in steel, two-tone, and gold (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Watches manufactured by independent brand De Bethune are in a class of their own. When you look at one of the brand’s new creations, it often feels like the watch has always been part of the collection. And yet, there is an ever-renewed creativity, with countless new details waiting to be discovered, with a unique mix […]
SJX Watches
Having debuted its first proprietary movement inside the Caballero last year, Singer Reimagined is building on the calibre by adding a second time zone. The DualTrack is powered by the same cleverly constructed movement, a manual wind with an impressive six day power reserve, but gains a 24-hour ring for a GMT function. The watch adopts the cushion-shaped case that’s the brand signature, while the dial similarly preserve the aesthetic found on the brand’s trademark central chronographs, but with a 24-hour ring around the dial. Because the second time zone is an add-on over the calibre, the 24-scale ring is independently adjustable, rather than the local hour hand, making this “caller” GMT rather than a true “traveller” GMT. Initial thoughts I like the Singer aesthetic so this design is appealing, and it implements the dual time zone function logically and legibly. The in-house movement with a long power reserve is also a plus, especially since it has a novel four-barrel construction. The only downside here is the “caller” type second time zone function. A “true” GMT with an independent local hour hand, as found on the Rolex GMT-Master II, is the most convenient format, since it requires fewest steps when setting the time while travelling, but this requires a built-from-the-ground-up calibre. All things considered, that can be forgiven since the DualTrack is an attractive proposition overall. Like last year’s Caballero, the DualTrack is a useful watch ...
Deployant
After a few years of hibernation, we see L.Leroy return with a new watch. A classical tourbillon, offered in three metal variants.
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.