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Results for Mechanical vs Quartz

2,052 articles · 466 videos found · page 58 of 84

First Look – Meet Renaud Tixier, The New Project of Two Inventive Minds, and the Inaugural Monday Watch Monochrome
Mar 18, 2024

First Look – Meet Renaud Tixier, The New Project of Two Inventive Minds, and the Inaugural Monday Watch

A veteran of the Swiss industry, Dominique Renaud joins forces with a young independent watchmaker, Julien Tixier. They aim to revisit fundamental principles of mechanical watchmaking and micro-mechanics introducing innovative solutions. The first opus of this newly created brand Renaud Tixier reimagines a classic of fine watchmaking, the micro-rotor, with an auxiliary mechanism to enhance […]

Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist Fratello
Mar 16, 2024

Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist

Swiss brand Genus is known for the quirky extravagance of the GNS1. It won the GPHG award for Mechanical Exception in 2019 and spawned some delightful variations. We also know the challenges of the “second album” for any hot new artist, as well as for wristwear. By introducing the Genus GNS2, I feel the brand […] Visit Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist to read the full article.

Watches Powered by Body Heat: Did the Bulova Thermatron Foretell a Matrix PowerWatch Heat-Driven Future? Quill & Pad
Bulova Thermatron Foretell Mar 11, 2024

Watches Powered by Body Heat: Did the Bulova Thermatron Foretell a Matrix PowerWatch Heat-Driven Future?

As we all know quartz became a Greek tragedy, but fortunately one with an eventual happy end for most brands. Well, happy for the Swiss brands but not so much for the American brands, in particular Bulova. Martin Green thinks heat may have played a role here and may well again with the technology showcased by the new Matrix PowerWatch.

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy SJX Watches
Mar 8, 2024

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy

Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train.  Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time.  Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...

Hands-On: Spending Time With The CWC W10 Navigator Fratello
Mar 3, 2024

Hands-On: Spending Time With The CWC W10 Navigator

I am fond of Cabot Watch Company, also known as CWC. It is a no-nonsense British watch brand that has focused on tool-watch designs since the early 1970s. Something about the design ethos of CWC reminds me of the golden epoch of 20th-century mechanical watchmaking. Today, we’ll look at the CWC W10 Navigator Automatic General […] Visit Hands-On: Spending Time With The CWC W10 Navigator to read the full article.

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland SJX Watches
Cartier Tank LC Feb 28, 2024

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland

To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...

Hands-on – The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II, a Rare Combination of Worldtime and Alarm Functions Monochrome
Feb 26, 2024

Hands-on – The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II, a Rare Combination of Worldtime and Alarm Functions

Operating out of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, for several years now, the brand Edouard Koehn carries four distinct collections. Of particular interest is the model introduced in 2021 as part of the World Heritage line, blending two practical complications: world time and alarm functions. While several mechanical watches offer combinations of an alarm with a GMT […]

Reintroducing The Fears Redcliff - A Slim And Sporty Family Of Round Watches Fratello
Fears Feb 23, 2024

Reintroducing The Fears Redcliff - A Slim And Sporty Family Of Round Watches

When Nicholas Bowman-Scargill relaunched his family’s watch brand in 2016, the Redcliff Quartz was the first watch from Fears in 40 years. However, in 2020, the Redcliff was discontinued. Except for a limited quartz Redcliff “Edwin Edition” that came out in 2023 to celebrate the brand’s founder’s birthday, the Redcliff hasn’t been a part of […] Visit Reintroducing The Fears Redcliff - A Slim And Sporty Family Of Round Watches to read the full article.

Introducing: The Tissot PR516 - A New Collection Of Do-It-All Chronographs Fratello
Tissot PR516 - Feb 22, 2024

Introducing: The Tissot PR516 - A New Collection Of Do-It-All Chronographs

The first Tissot PR 516 was introduced in 1965, and a chronograph version followed three years later. Today, we get four new versions that lean on that aesthetic from the late ’60s and early ’70s. This is the new-for-2024 Tissot PR516 chronograph in three quartz versions and one hand-wound execution. I went hands-on to see […] Visit Introducing: The Tissot PR516 - A New Collection Of Do-It-All Chronographs to read the full article.

Dior Revives the Chiffre Rouge Chronograph SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton all Feb 15, 2024

Dior Revives the Chiffre Rouge Chronograph

In the midst of a resurgence that makes it both one of the biggest and fastest growing luxury brands, Dior nonetheless has a barely-there presence in the watch segment – particularly in mechanical watches – despite having offered watches since 1975. This contrasts with its peers like Chanel, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton, all of which have invested significant resources into making serious watches, particularly compilations and métiers d’art offerings. Now Dior is embarking on an overhaul of its mechanical watch offerings by returning to the Chiffre Rouge, a model first unveiled in 2004 that was distinguished by an asymmetrical case accentuated by a red crown or pusher at four. More streamlined and almost monochromatic, the Chiffre Rouge Black Ultra-Matte Chronograph has a black-coated, 41 mm case containing the Zenith El Primero movement. Initial thoughts The Chiffre Rouge stood out as a memorable design model from the 2000s, although its mechanics were rarely serious. The earlier chronograph models, for instance, relied on either ETA or quartz movements. Dior also never made a real effort to upgrade the model, so it was mostly perceived as a “fashion” watch. The redesign gives the Chiffre Rouge more appeal, as it retains the original, distinctive styling but with a definitely superior movement. That said, I would have done away with the date window at four for a clean geometric-patterned dial. The key feature of the new chronograph is the Zenith El Primero, which ...

Wristwatch Precision: Why the Fundamental Purpose of Watches is Playing Second Fiddle and How to Fix This Quill & Pad
Feb 5, 2024

Wristwatch Precision: Why the Fundamental Purpose of Watches is Playing Second Fiddle and How to Fix This

Mechanical watches have become about so much more than precision. They are status symbols, works of art and passion, a testimony of human ingenuity, and much more. Precision, as long as it reaches a certain standard, plays second fiddle. Martin Green thinks that brands should devote more emphasis to precision and he has an idea to encourage that.

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT Feb 5, 2024

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko‘s introduction of the 9R movement, featuring its revolutionary Spring Drive technology. The concept, conceived in the 1970s and which took decades to implement, aimed to blend the force of a mainspring with electronic watchmaking technology and surpass the precision of conventional mechanical watches. Now, 9R-family calibres […]

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project Worn & Wound
Seiko Power Design Project From Jan 30, 2024

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project

From creating the world’s first automatic chronograph to creating the first quartz watch, Seiko is known for its cutting edge and revolutionary timepieces. In 2001, Seiko decided to have some fun and further encourage a culture of experimentation by starting the Seiko Power Design Project, an annual opportunity for Seiko designers to, as Seiko puts it, “deeply explore the essence of watches in a style different from their regular work and to generate innovative outputs.” Each year, designers are given a different theme, with past years tackling things like the neighborhoods or districts of Tokyo or more abstract concepts, such as “rebirth” and “fascination.” After its discontinuation in 2009, Seiko relaunched the project in 2023. This year’s Power Design Project has delivered another crop of unique watches under the theme of “incredibly specialized watches.” The standout of the collection is the Ambidextrous, a watch that can be worn on the left hand or the right-with it appearing a different color depending on which way it’s facing. Designer Kento Ito accomplished the optical illusion with a steel case painted black on one half and a dial painted with black and white stripes that trick your eye into thinking the dial is white or black depending on the viewing perspective. Hour, minute, and second hands extend past the center of the dial, with one half black and the other white to complete the illusion. It’s the sort of fun trick that would have y...

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jan 30, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication

Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...

Daniel Roth Unveils Tourbillon Souscription and DR001 Calibre SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Jan 30, 2024

Daniel Roth Unveils Tourbillon Souscription and DR001 Calibre

With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024. Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics. The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting. But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relie...

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 900P is just 3.65mm thick yet still looks like an actual watch Time+Tide
Richard Mille Jan 27, 2024

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 900P is just 3.65mm thick yet still looks like an actual watch

I have been very happy to see ultra-thin watchmaking make a comeback as of late, but the race to be the thinnest does have its concessions. For Richard Mille, to achieve the ‘thinnest mechanical watch in the world’ title it, in my opinion, had to sacrifice looking like an actual wristwatch – more like a … ContinuedThe post The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 900P is just 3.65mm thick yet still looks like an actual watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulova Dress Up the Lunar Pilot with a Meteorite Dial SJX Watches
Bulova Dress Up Jan 26, 2024

Bulova Dress Up the Lunar Pilot with a Meteorite Dial

Something of an alternative “Moon” watch, the Bulova Lunar Pilot was unveiled eight years ago as a remake of the watch worn by American astronaut David Scott. It retains all the distinctive features of the original but made affordable thanks to a quartz movement. But now it’s a become a bit more luxe with a meteorite dial inside a scaled-down case. Initial thoughts As a space-watch aficionado, I find the Lunar Pilot more interesting than its more famous counterparts because of the unique yet contemporary design, particularly the modern typography on the chronograph registers. After its debut, the Lunar Pilot was made more wearable with a smaller case size of 43.5 mm in diameter. Not much has happened since then, either in terms of dial variety or other innovation, limiting its appeal beyond a niche audience. Therefore, the meteorite dial version is a welcome development, particularly since the material is still uncommon in this price segment. The meteorite edition, however, is pricey for the Lunar Pilot. It costs at US$1,495, a US$600 increase over the model with the standard dial. This price hike is arguably warranted since such dials are typically, but not always, found on more expensive timepieces. Despite being a limited edition, it is a run of 5,000 pieces, which isn’t exactly “limited”; a smaller edition size would have made it more compelling. A space rock dial David Scott’s own Bulova Chronograph ref. 88510/01 worn during the Apollo 15 mission in 1971...