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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Only Watch 2021: Tudor Black Bay GMT One SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay GMT One Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Tudor Black Bay GMT One

Tudor’s entry into Only Watch 2021 is typical – a reinterpretation of one of its current models – but at the same time strikingly unusual. The Black Bay GMT One is a dual time zone with a heavily aged finish on the case and bracelet, along with an open back showing off a movement similar to that found in the recent Black Bay Ceramic. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are ordinarily excellent quality and tremendous value, though most are styled within certain aesthetic confines. The brand gets to do things differently at Only Watch, and the Black Bay GMT One is probably the most interesting to date. Most Tudor watches look shiny and new, and even those that acquire a patina remain pristine under the crystal. The GMT One is purposefully aged, even on the dial and movement, which gives it a lived-in look that’s appealing in a sports watch. Granted, the aged bracelet seems a bit much – I’d wear it on a strap – but given that there’ll only be one of these and it’ll sell for about US$350,000 that’s a moot point. Lastly, it’s notable that the GMT One is powered by a Master Chronometer movement, perhaps a reference to the strategic genius of the similar movement found in the Black Bay Ceramic. Slightly worn The GMT One has a case steel and bracelet that are identical to that found on the standard model, except for the surface treatment. Both are finished with a black coating that is then partially and randomly worn off via tumble polishing, creating an aged-...

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? Time+Tide
Richard Mille thrill you or make Jun 27, 2021

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate?

Are you on team Rolex or team Omega? Does the horological excess of Richard Mille thrill you or make you shudder? In the world of luxury brands emotions can run deep. This week I discovered an intriguing exploration into the fickle world of consumer behaviour, in the Jing Daily newsletter and a story entitled: “Why … ContinuedThe post Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone Time+Tide
Jun 18, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone

How could a mechanical wristwatch be more modern than an smartwatch? As any high school debater will tell you, it depends how you define your terms, but that is exactly the question Jason Fried, the Founder & CEO at Basecamp, asked in a recent blog post. His argument? Well, it all boils down to how … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand - here are 5 brands to start you off Time+Tide
May 22, 2021

Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand - here are 5 brands to start you off

Five years ago, Thor Svaboe got in touch with a Singaporean brand called Zelos to enquire about buying a bronze-cased Hammerhead diver with a meteorite dial. Being a piece of asteroid that exploded millions of years old and subsequently plummeted to earth, a meteorite is, of course, an extremely rare material. But this cosmic exclusivity … ContinuedThe post Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand – here are 5 brands to start you off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch Time+Tide
May 9, 2021

RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch

Like I say in this video, separating what’s “actually” new versus what a brand tells you is new, and what’s truly innovative from the marketing spin is practically a daily task in watch media. Do. Not. Believe. The. Press. Releases. So, when you ask four hardened hacks from the field for four watches that were … ContinuedThe post RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Voodoo sex and a 1950s gold watch - the missing link between Marlon Brando and Zsa Zsa Gabor Time+Tide
May 7, 2021

Voodoo sex and a 1950s gold watch - the missing link between Marlon Brando and Zsa Zsa Gabor

Imagine a watch that could give you sexual superpowers. Buckling it onto your wrist would invest you with such dangerous charm and animal magnetism that no mortal could possibly resist you. Admittedly, as watch complications go, this would be a damn sight more useful that any piddling moon-phase. But this far-fetched object might actually exist … ContinuedThe post Voodoo sex and a 1950s gold watch – the missing link between Marlon Brando and Zsa Zsa Gabor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak X It latest Apr 22, 2021

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau

Since its founding three years ago, Qatar Watch Club (QWC) has collaborated with several watchmakers on special editions that paid tribute to its home country. The first was a Chopard L.U.C GMT with a burgundy dial – the primary colour of Qatar’s national flag – then a Tudor Pelagos featuring the country name in Arabic script, and most recently a Ulysse Nardin Freak X. It latest project is a tie-up with Hermès that resulted in special edition of the Arceau. Limited to 40 pieces, the Hermès Arceau Qatar Watch Club features an ebene, or “ebony”, dial that reflects the shared equestrian history of both the Parisian saddle maker and the Gulf state. Initial thoughts The watch is very much Hermès in nature and execution. Though distinctive, it is discreet. One of Hermès’ most distinctive models, the Arceau was first conceived in 1978, with its asymmetrical case inspired by a stirrup. The italicised Breguet numerals are stylish, giving the watch subtle flair. Equally subtle is the herringbone-textured dial that brings to mind Hermès fabric. The ebene dial colour is noteworthy. Rich in tone when executed right, brown is relatively uncommon in today’s watches, especially when green and blue seem to be the colours du jour. Long a colour associated with horse riding – Hermès saddles and riding boots can often be found in ebene – it is also a popular shade for the brand’s iconic Birkin bags. Coupled with orange accents – the five-minute markers and the...

How not to talk to total strangers about their watch Time+Tide
Panerai Apr 2, 2021

How not to talk to total strangers about their watch

I was 35,000ft over the Atlantic when I first freaked someone out about his watch. It was in the line for the airplane toilet. A guy was ahead of me, wrestling a full-bladdered toddler. This, I reasoned, is exactly the moment he’ll want a stranger to ask about his Panerai. He’ll tell me the story … ContinuedThe post How not to talk to total strangers about their watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex robberies - when your watch makes you a target for crime Time+Tide
Rolex robberies – when your Mar 27, 2021

The Rolex robberies - when your watch makes you a target for crime

Wearing a Rolex will invariably attract attention. Bragging rights aside, owning a Rolex comes with a host of benefits: they can make a great impression with your in-laws, they are built to last for a very long time, they hold their value better than most luxury commodities and, of course, they tell the time unusually … ContinuedThe post The Rolex robberies – when your watch makes you a target for crime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: The Unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Alan Banbery” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3448 “Alan Banbery” Mar 16, 2021

Auction Watch: The Unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Alan Banbery”

A legendary watch long known to the market – and widely expected to reemerge – is finally coming to market. The one-off Patek Philippe ref. 3448 without a moon phase will be offered by Christie’s during its upcoming Hong Kong watch auction on May 22, 2021. This unique ref. 3448 was custom made for Alan Banbery, and is distinguished by the red leap-year indicator that replaces the conventional moon phase display. Though there are a few other known examples of the ref. 3448 without a moon phase – nicknamed “Senza Luna”, Italian for “without moon” – the Banbery watch is the only one with robust provenance, detailed documentation, and crucially, the under-dial mechanism for the leap-year display. An Englishman who was the longtime head of sales at Patek Philippe until his retirement in 2001. Still living near Geneva, Mr Banbery is probably best known as having helped Philippe Stern assemble the magnificent collection of clocks and watches that make up the Patek Philippe Museum, while also being one of the coauthors of the Patek Philippe, Geneve reference books alongside the late Munich watch retailer Martin Huber. During a 2017 meeting with Mr Banbery at the La Reserve hotel in Geneva, he recounted the origins of his ref. 3448. According to Mr Banbery, he had the idea of a ref. 3448 without a moon phase and took it to Patek Philippe watchmaker Max Berney, who then modified a standard ref. 3448, replacing the moon phase with a leap year display. He was gifted...

Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959 SJX Watches
Seiko Remakes Mar 16, 2021

Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959

A longtime fan favourite, the modern-day Alpinist is synonymous with a forest-green dial and inner rotating bezel. But the origins of the model date to 1959, when Seiko introduced the first Alpinist as part of the Laurel brand. Today’s Alpinist has evolved a long way from the original, but now Seiko has returned the watch to its roots with a “re-creation” of the 1959 design. The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation is a somewhat faithful remake of the first Alpinist that was conceived as no-frills watch for mountaineers. At the same time, Seiko is also unveiling the simpler and more affordable The 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-interpretation. The vintage original of 1959 Initial thoughts Because it’s very much a mid-20th century design, the Alpinist reissues have a good blend of sportiness and elegance. The round cases are compact, giving them a slightly a dressy feel, but the dials are simple and legible, along with a more-than-capable watch case with substantial water resistance. The best thing about the watch is its design, which is minimalist but not plain. The markers are oversized and slightly decorative, and matched with a minute track that evokes a sector dial. Just 36.6 mm wide, the Re-creation is particularly good looking with its symmetrical layout and deep, glossy black finish. It also avoids the faux-vintage colour palette, resulting in a look that is retro but refreshingly modern. That said, its date window is squeezed between four and five o’clock, which is a l...

Watch tattoos have become a bizarre new trend. What is wrong with people? Time+Tide
Mar 12, 2021

Watch tattoos have become a bizarre new trend. What is wrong with people?

Paw prints, Celtic bands, bows on thighs, pretty much anything inked on the face… There’s no shortage of tattoo choices that are questionable at best and watch tattoos represent yet another baffling sub-category. After all, if you want to visibly declare your passion for a particular brand or model, there’s a straight-forward way to do … ContinuedThe post Watch tattoos have become a bizarre new trend. What is wrong with people? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Here’s why the 2008 Omega Planet Ocean continues to be the watch I wear the most Time+Tide
Omega Planet Ocean continues Mar 8, 2021

Here’s why the 2008 Omega Planet Ocean continues to be the watch I wear the most

What is it that makes a watch an ideal daily wearer? The requirements change from person to person without doubt, but there are a few essentials which should at least be considered – decent water resistance, legibility and reasonable accuracy. Occasionally, though, the right watch comes along and ends up stuck to your wrist whether … ContinuedThe post Here’s why the 2008 Omega Planet Ocean continues to be the watch I wear the most appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fresh and unfiltered - why Dimepiece could be the shake-up that watch culture needs Time+Tide
Mar 7, 2021

Fresh and unfiltered - why Dimepiece could be the shake-up that watch culture needs

If you want youthful edge and attitude, watch marketing is probably the last place in the known universe that you’re going to find it. Brands invariably take a strait-laced approach, heaping laboured emphasis on their luxury credentials, heritage and technical prowess. All of which is pretty dull. But it also risks turning off an entire … ContinuedThe post Fresh and unfiltered – why Dimepiece could be the shake-up that watch culture needs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bremont show how to nail a virtual watch event with the world’s greatest mountaineer Time+Tide
Bremont show how Mar 3, 2021

Bremont show how to nail a virtual watch event with the world’s greatest mountaineer

Despite a full 12 months passing since COVID began restricting the places we can go and the people we see, the watch world still hasn’t worked out how to run an interesting event online. Starved of the opportunity to present watches in the metal, the polite way to describe most virtual events is dull at … ContinuedThe post Bremont show how to nail a virtual watch event with the world’s greatest mountaineer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 25, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch

Having first unveiled one set with diamonds and blue sapphires last year – that no doubt sold out briskly – Grand Seiko has just announced the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch 140th Anniversary (ref. SBGD207). This is similar to last year’s model – a Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8 Day with the dial, flange, and crown set with diamonds and garnets – combining the refined, artisanal movement finishing of the Micro Artist Studio with lavish gem-setting. Initial thoughts Last year’s sapphire-set 8 Day watch was impressive and truly special, being the first highly-jewelled, mechanical men’s watch from Seiko (or Grand Seiko) in two or three decades. The new SBGD207 in green is equally impressive, though it does reduce the unique nature of the original. Being a variant of the Spring Drive 8 Day, the SBGD207 will wear much like the standard model, which is extremely hefty and large for a Grand Seiko, and slightly top heavy on the wrist. The mass of the watch probably works better with the lavish gemstone setting, making the sparkle as over the top as the size. And because the SBGD207 has a green mother of pearl dial, it probably has more flash than last year’s model that had a grained, silvery dial finish. And the movement will be equally refined, having all the hand-finished intricacy of the 9R01 in the standard model. Though finely decorated, the movement lacks visual detail, because almost all of it is hidden under a single, massive barrel b...

RGM Watch Co. Unveils the Custom Model 25 “Kauai” SJX Watches
Breguet inspired aesthetic Feb 18, 2021

RGM Watch Co. Unveils the Custom Model 25 “Kauai”

A pioneering American independent watchmaker established in 1992, RGM Watch Co. long ago developed an in-house expertise in traditional guilloche, resulting in a Breguet-inspired aesthetic that defined the brand in its early years. But RGM – named after founder Roland G. Murphy – has since diversified its offerings to include custom and bespoke watches. The latest example of a custom commission is Model 25 “Kauai”, a wristwatch with a dial bearing the map of the eponymous Hawaiian island. Initial thoughts RGM is especially good at dial making, and the Kauai is a good example of what the brand can do. While the Hawaiian island motif is personal to the client who ordered the watch, the quality of the execution is evidently high. The wave guilloche on the dial is engraved the old-fashioned way, with a hand-operated straight-line engine, while both plaques on the dial are solid gold that were cut by hand on a jig borer. And almost all of the dial is produced in house, save for the laser engraving of the map and the blue galvanic coating. The value of the watch is almost entirely in the one-off, hand-made dial – and it offers strong value in itself. The Kauai cost US$13,900, and similar custom watches are priced about the same – alternatives include enamel or marquetry dials – making them a good value proposition, especially since comparable watches from establishment Swiss brands would cost substantially more. Made in Pennsylvania Located in Mount Joy, a town in...

MICRO MONDAYS: Was the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT the freshest microbrand travel watch of 2020? Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe GMT Feb 14, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Was the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT the freshest microbrand travel watch of 2020?

No, not another GMT?! Well, what if we tell you that this is a 39mm piece of vintage-inspired perfection with a goldilocks-sized 38mm case and a slightly wider bezel. And that its colours are as F.R.E.S.H as only the French can make them. If you know Baltic already, you might say that this is a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Was the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT the freshest microbrand travel watch of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck Time+Tide
Feb 6, 2021

Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck

Yes, maybe you use your watch mostly to tell the time. But how about the joys of using a good old chronograph to time your bike ride to the shops. Or flying into another time zone with a GMT on your wrist (it will happen again one day). Let’s tempt you with the best value … ContinuedThe post Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 great watch gift options under $5K if you don’t know what to buy this Christmas Time+Tide
Dec 20, 2020

5 great watch gift options under $5K if you don’t know what to buy this Christmas

Christmas is COMING. Yes, even in this year we are going to experience the delights of Christmas trees, the beach for the lucky Australians, and what will surely be extra lovely presents. So why not head over to our shop and check out these watch gift options under $5K that are here to spread some New … ContinuedThe post 5 great watch gift options under $5K if you don’t know what to buy this Christmas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Holiday horology: 5 Christmas accessories to give any watch lover (or just buy for yourself) Time+Tide
Dec 13, 2020

Holiday horology: 5 Christmas accessories to give any watch lover (or just buy for yourself)

The gift-giving season has arrived, with Christmas and other holidays just around the corner. Odds are if you’re reading this article (or any content on Time+Tide for that matter) that you, or someone you know, have a sweet spot for watch-related goodies. Fortunately, you don’t have to wait till the last minute or spend a … ContinuedThe post Holiday horology: 5 Christmas accessories to give any watch lover (or just buy for yourself) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: The man we partnered with for our first watch releases, Sir George Bamford Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: The man we partnered with for our first watch releases, Sir George Bamford

George Bamford, founder of Bamford Watch Department and living proof that disrupting a traditional industry can bear new fruit for all and open it up to a more engaged, more youthful audience.  Now drumroll, please, for a very special announcement.  George, please tell us the story behind the watch you’re wearing today I am currently … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: The man we partnered with for our first watch releases, Sir George Bamford appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man Time+Tide
Rolex Datejust Nov 27, 2020

Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man

Too often in a TV drama, a character’s watch is just a random accessory lobbed in by the wardrobe department at the last minute. Yet when it’s done right, a watch can become infused with psychological depth and meaning. And when it’s done to absolute perfection it can deliver a tell-tale insight into a character’s … ContinuedThe post Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The only thing I want buzzing on my wrist is a Memovox. Why I’ll never wear an Apple Watch… Time+Tide
Nov 17, 2020

The only thing I want buzzing on my wrist is a Memovox. Why I’ll never wear an Apple Watch…

You don’t need the statistics to tell you that Apple Watches sell more than the rest of the Swiss watch industry combined. You need only to glance at people’s wrists.  You can’t miss those sleek square slabs. They’re everywhere. Worn by every age group, in every profession. I’ve been told they’re particularly popular among undertakers, … ContinuedThe post The only thing I want buzzing on my wrist is a Memovox. Why I’ll never wear an Apple Watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8 watches that might just be sub-$10k bargains at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2020

8 watches that might just be sub-$10k bargains at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII

Let’s face it, watch auctions can be a little bit intimidating. The big players in the watch game are centuries-old organisations, with Christie’s and Sotheby’s both pre-dating the First Fleet sailing into Botany Bay, and Phillips only eight years younger, being founded in 1796. All this history, the seven-figure headline lots and the sometimes confusing … ContinuedThe post 8 watches that might just be sub-$10k bargains at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer? Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2020

Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer?

We will have to wait to see who wins the election next week in the race for the presidency of the United States. In the meantime, we thought it would be a good time to check in and see what watches President Trump and former Vice President Biden have been wearing as of late. Politics … ContinuedThe post Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2020

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro

Watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres. The movements powering wristwatches are effectively a tiny city of gears and levers, that when blown up to a larger scale, become a chronometric Atlantis waiting to be explored and appreciated. One of the first things people notice when looking at a dial of a watch is … ContinuedThe post Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.