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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch Mar 29, 2021

Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender

Grand Seiko has been around for over 60 years, but within the last decade the brand is slowly (yet exponentially) growing its presence throughout the watch community and the world. The brand is known by enthusiasts for their high-value craftsmanship, offering more black polished components than most Swiss brands – and at a fraction of … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Mar 29, 2021

GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova

A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F; but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole. Initial thoughts The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner. Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel. The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Mar 26, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery”

A watch that combines the famous octagonal case with an innovative movement, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is unquestionably the most technically interesting time-only Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak. And then there’s this bejewelled version that’s certainly a lot more extravagant, but at the same time shows off the details and finishing of the movement better. Initial thoughts This watch is the ultimate black-tie watch – time-only and eminently classical in size at just 37 mm. In fact, it’s quite a bit smaller than the 41 mm standard model, making it a discreet fit under a cuff that will probably be secured by diamond-set cufflinks. It’s also dressed up with a glossy crocodile strap and a lot of generously sized, baguette-cut diamonds – a technically-inclined watch that takes its bling seriously. But this is not just another octagonal watch with diamonds. The movement relies on a novel technical concept for better timekeeping, but its technical merits are usually overlooked because it is installed inside a “hot” watch. And this particular version of the movement is more attractively executed here than on the standard models. Because movement here is plated in silvery rhodium – no doubt to match the dazzling whiteness of the diamonds – it’s more appealing than on the non-jewelled versions that have a dark grey ruthenium finish that’s almost black. While the finishing of the two is essentially identical, the dark finish obscures much ...

Audemars Piguet Unveils a Royal Oak Ensemble in Green SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Mar 26, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils a Royal Oak Ensemble in Green

While blue has been the fad for watches for some time, green is recently in vogue, if for no other reason than the endless stream of blue-dial watches. And so the pioneer of the sports-luxury watch has just launched five different Royal Oak models with dials in deep green – the first, but likely not the last, brand to do so this year. The new offerings are actually a trio of three distinct models, with the simplest – and probably the most appealing – being the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a smoked, sunburst green dial that’s exclusive to AP Houses. In contrast, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in yellow gold, and the Royal Oak Self-winding Tourbillon (in three variants), all feature the familiar tapisserie guilloche. The platinum Jumbo, accompanied by a pair of Flying Tourbillons Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is the luxury sports watch, and it’s one of today’s hottest watches – in practically every variation. When it comes to insatiable demand, even the most minor of variations will be desirable. So the new green dials will certainly amplify the clamour – because the colour is attractive, deep and lustrous – but also because the colour is unusual for the Royal Oak. It’s almost amusing to see the brand’s skill in iterating a 40-year old design by drawing on colours, finishes, and complications to make the Royal Oak attractive in myriad ways. That, of course, builds on a recipe that’s both intrinsically appealing and versatile – ...

INTRODUCING: The Fears Brunswick Pt. combines platinum and diamonds with British understatement Time+Tide
Fears Mar 25, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Fears Brunswick Pt. combines platinum and diamonds with British understatement

Fears Watch Company is a big part of the renaissance of British watchmaking and yet another sign of the new roaring 20s as UK horology continues to regain its momentum. The most important model in the Fears catalogue is the Brunswick and I had the impression that it peaked with the beguiling vertical striations on … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Fears Brunswick Pt. combines platinum and diamonds with British understatement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8 affordable watches on eBay right now for under $5k, including Patek Philippe and Jacob & Co Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Mar 25, 2021

8 affordable watches on eBay right now for under $5k, including Patek Philippe and Jacob & Co

Of late, eBay has been making serious strides into the pre-owned watch market and they certainly aren’t slowing down. They recently started a new Instagram account dedicated solely to watch content and just a few months ago announced their Authenticity Guarantee program to verify watches sold for $2000USD and over. This week eBay is offering … ContinuedThe post 8 affordable watches on eBay right now for under $5k, including Patek Philippe and Jacob & Co appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Marks the 10th Anniversary of the Legacy Machine SJX Watches
MB&F; Mar 24, 2021

MB&F; Marks the 10th Anniversary of the Legacy Machine

Though MB&F; was founded on the premise of avant-grade expressions of the watch case with its Horological Machines, the brand has an equally successful, and far more traditional, collection of watches with conventional round cases, the Legacy Machines (LM). It’s hard to believe, but the LM collection is a decade old now (and MB&F; itself is almost 16 years old). For the LM’s 10th anniversary, MB&F; has created ultimate version of the LM1, the watch that launched the series. Short for Legacy Machine X – with the final letter being a Roman “10” – the LMX incorporates diverse elements from the past decade’s watches as well as several new ideas, resulting in a familiar but all-new “machine”. So it has the familiar twin sub-dials for two time zones, but now inclined. Likewise, the LMX features a vertical power reserve indicator, but now made more elaborate with a spherical display. And all of that is contained within a thinner case that’s similar to that first seen on the LM Thunderdome triple-axis tourbillon. The LMX in pink gold Initial thoughts Compared to the original LM1, the LMX is indeed heavily upgraded inside and out, with a sleeker styling that includes a more three-dimensional dial, as well as a newly-developed, triple-barrel movement with weeklong power reserve. By most measures, the LMX is an excellent evolution of the original LM idea – and an impressive watch in its own right – but it does feel less adventurous than it should be for a milest...

6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Mar 23, 2021

6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation

When it comes to Omega dive watches, the Seamaster 300 is an enthusiast favourite. Yes, the Diver 300M collection is hugely popular, but for those who aren’t after a contemporary design and prefer the softer and more balanced designs of the Omega archives, then the Seamaster 300 is where you may well eventually find yourself. … ContinuedThe post 6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref. 4261 ‘Les Collectionneurs’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref 4261 Mar 23, 2021

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref. 4261 ‘Les Collectionneurs’

Part of Les Collectionneurs – vintage wristwatches that have been sympathetically restored by the brand itself – the ref. 4261 is very much a classical, mid-20th century gentleman’s watch, albeit one with a minute repeating movement. The design is simple and accented by the barest of flourishes, yet it manages to be distinctive enough to feel like a Vacheron Constantin. In fact, the slim minute repeater with teardrop lugs is arguably the archetypal design for a Vacheron Constantin striking watch. The ref. 4261 that’s now in show in Singapore, part of a selection from Les Collectionneurs The little extra that marks out the ref. 4261 as a special watch According to Vacheron Constantin, the ref. 4261 was the first minute-repeating wristwatch model produced by the brand. Launched in 1943, it remained in production until 1951, but just 36 were produced during the period. They were offered in yellow or pink gold, as well as platinum. About a dozen were made in yellow gold, and this is one of them. It is also one of the last ref. 4261s made, having been finished in 1951, the final year of production. Most interestingly, this example is powered by a 13-ligne movement. It was the largest minute-repeating movement used by Vacheron Constantin at the time. According to Vacheron Constantin, just ten of the ref. 4261s produced contained a 13-ligne movement, while majority were equipped with a slightly smaller, 12-ligne calibre. Just 5.25 mm high – less than half the height of ...

Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star” SJX Watches
Mar 23, 2021

Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star”

A four-person workshop in Moscow, HoD Russia specialises custom watches at affordable prices. Because the team is made up of a sculptor, engraver, and two engineers, HoD’s offerings are diverse in style, with a focus the dial. Cofounder Vasiliy Avitisov describes the brand as specialising in “dials with high relief [made] from a variety of materials”. Amongst its recent project is the “Guiding Star”, commissioned by a watch collector based in Japan. Initial thoughts Conceived alongside the client, the Guiding Star is a good example of what HoD can do. The dial is minimalist in function, yet decorated and visually striking – and it is made in house, from raw material to finished product. The dial is made of an epoxy resin mixed and coloured in HoD’s workshop, and then machined into the dial disc. The purple contrasts against the hobnail guilloche sub-dial, while the client’s initials form the 12 o’clock market, a reminder that the Guiding Star is a custom watch. One of the joys of going full custom, so to speak, is being able to dictate even the smallest of details, such as the buckle. It’s been hand-engraved with the client’s initials flanked by a Japanese wave motif, or seigaiha. The personalised pin buckle With comparable watches starting from US$2,800, the Guiding Star illustrates the brand’s value proposition – time-0nly watches with a high degree of customisation. The affordability means that while the customisation can be elaborate, the ...

3 GMT Watches For Traveling In Style And On A Budget Quill & Pad
Mar 22, 2021

3 GMT Watches For Traveling In Style And On A Budget

One of the things Martin Green enjoys most about vacations is having as little to worry about as possible. That means for a watch he is looking for a versatile, leisurely partner that is as suitable for hiking as it is for drinks and dinner afterward. And while he generally likes to travel in style, his travel watch shouldn’t be too expensive for more of a care-free experience on vacation. Here he looks at three budget contenders for the wrist on your next holiday, whenever that may be.

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph. Time+Tide
Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Mar 22, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph.

Finally, after a five-year hiatus, my inner petrolhead is awakened from its slumber, and by a watch! I will not bore you with my younger days of owning British sports cars from the Triumph GT6 to a Lotus Elan to a lovely series 1 Jaguar XJ6 from 1970 with dark blue leather seats. But one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Unveils the Ultra-Thin Carpe Noctem Skeleton SJX Watches
Omega Co-Axial cal 8500 Mar 22, 2021

Molnar Fabry Unveils the Ultra-Thin Carpe Noctem Skeleton

Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry is a pair of jewellers-turned-watchmakers who specialise in elaborate skeleton watches. The duo’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from a repurposed split-seconds pocket watch movement from the 1930s to an Omega Co-Axial cal. 8500 that looks nothing like the industrially-produced original. The brand’s latest is unusual, its first ultra-thin dress watch. Commissioned by a client as most of its watches are, the Carpe Noctem (Latin for “seize the night”) is just 7.1 mm high, and powered by a reworked Vaucher VMF 5401. Initial thoughts The VMF 5401 is a finely constructed movement – as all of Vaucher’s movements are – but rarely decorated in such an artisanal, intricate manner. Molnar Fabry’s revamp of the movement reveals much of its detail, while also showing off the brand’s skill in working with metal. Because Molnar Fabry’s watches are all one-offs that are hand made, the aesthetic varies tremendously, depending also on the client’s taste. The Carpe Noctem is cleaner and sleeker than many of the brand’s other creations, but boasts just as much craftsmanship in the movement, which is a good thing. The chapter ring for the hours is steel finished with circular graining, with the Roman numerals being engraved and filled with black lacquer, while the hands are solid 18k pink gold At €35,000, Carpe Noctem is priced like earlier, comparable watches by Molnar Fabry. It’s a substantial sum of money, but a reasonable ask co...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. Time+Tide
Mar 21, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots.

I’ve had quite a few microbrands in my personal watchbox. In fact, my first new mechanical watch after a waning vintage obsession was a microbrand. Due to the smaller nature of these businesses, one of the main attractions of buying these watches is the possibility of interacting with the brand owner during the retail process … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: The Citizen Calibre 0200 SJX Watches
Citizen Calibre 0200 Citizen Mar 21, 2021

Up Close: The Citizen Calibre 0200

Citizen is one of the world’s biggest watchmakers, with its timepiece division generating about US$1 billion in sales each year – an output of several hundred million watches and movements annually. That vast manufacturing expertise means Citizen knows how to produce a fine mechanical movement. Now Citizen has finally accomplished it, and installed the movement inside a brilliant new watch. Launched earlier this month, The Citizen Caliber 0200 is equipped with the brand’s first mechanical movement developed from scratch as a high-end calibre (“The Citizen” is the name of the collection, while Caliber 0200 refers to movement as well as this specific model). Although the brand did launch a version of The Citizen with an automatic movement in 2010, the new Caliber 0200 is radically different, and tremendously superior. While the highlight is the new Caliber 0200, the entire watch is executed extremely well. The case and bracelet are outstanding, fabricated and finished so well there is nothing else that comes close in the same price segment. The quality of the watch was apparent in the press photos, which made me want to see it in the metal. I got my hands on a prototype for a couple of days earlier this month, an experience that left me substantially impressed. [Editor’s note: The watch pictured is a prototype, so it does contain a handful of hard-to-spot imperfections.] Initial thoughts On paper, the Caliber 0200 might seem uninteresting, being yet another sp...

3 New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Models For 2021: Sky Blue, Green, And Yellow, All In Ceramic Cases Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Mar 18, 2021

3 New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Models For 2021: Sky Blue, Green, And Yellow, All In Ceramic Cases

The Grande Seconde is an iconic Jaquet Droz model. It’s a wristwatch interpretation of a historic Jaquet Droz pocket watch from 1748 featuring two overlapping dials forming a graceful figure eight. The Grande Seconde is as classic a Jaquet Droz as they come, but the Skelet-One, while retaining the same dial layout, is anything but classic. Ian Skellern takes a closer look at three new models from this surprising line for 2021.

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial SJX Watches
De Bethune s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets Mar 17, 2021

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial

Introduced to commemorate the 10th anniversary of De Bethune’s signature watch, the DB28XP is a pared-back, slimmer and more wearable take on the original model, though still instantly recognisable with its trademark pivoted lugs. Now De Bethune unveils the most exotic variant of the watch to date, the DB28XP Meteorite. It retains many of the elements the brand is known for, but the highlight is a brilliantly blued meteorite dial. Meteorite dials are common, even on inexpensive watches, but De Bethune’s meteorite is unlike any other in watchmaking. Though the material is just like any other meteorite, it has been heat-treated, creating a blue oxidisation that gives it a special blue sheen. Initial thoughts De Bethune is one of my favourite independent watchmakers – I love the Kind of Two Tourbillon from earlier in the year. Innovation is its raison d’etre, and the new DB28XP Meteorite exemplifies that, both technically and aesthetically. While heat-blued titanium is a De Bethune hallmark, heat-blued meteorite takes the look to a whole new level. The gold-studded “starry sky” dial captures the cosmos on the wrist. Though the look is very different, the DB28XP Meteorite has all of the wearability of the standard model. It has sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to cling to the wrist, while also being more compact than the original, full-size DB28. The brand has previously utilised the blued meteorite in the Dream Watch 5 and Kind of Blue Meteorite – both sp...

Alain Silberstein Reveals a Quirky, Bauhaus Clock SJX Watches
Louis Erard Mar 17, 2021

Alain Silberstein Reveals a Quirky, Bauhaus Clock

An architect turned watch designer, Alain Silberstein was a star of the 1990s, being perhaps the most avant-garde watch brand of the decade. The Frenchman’s quirky and geometrical designs were the diametrical opposite of the classical style that was then the industry norm. Though his eponymous brand shut down a few years ago, Mr Silberstein is still active as a designer, most recently collaborating with Louis Erard on an affordable, regulator-style watch. Now he is making a comeback in a big way – literally. With the help from French clockmaker Utinam, Mr Silberstein has taken the cover off the Kontwaz Bauhaus 2, KB2 for short. A monumental skeleton clock, the KB2 is available in two versions: a 2 m high standing timekeeper, or in a compact, wall-mounted form. The KB2 wall clock Alain Silberstein Initial thoughts The KB2 is not Mr Silberstein’s first foray into clocks. He designed several other versions of the Kontwaz Bauhaus in the 1990s, which were produced by a French clockmaker and occasionally pop up on the secondary market today. That makes the new KB2 is a pleasant surprise that harks back to his earlier career. As with most Silberstein creations, the appeal of the KB2 lies in the design, which is complex and distinctive, yet composed of simple shapes. The geometrical forms and colours are lightly arranged in harmonious whole – an impressive feat, for a lesser designer would have just created a mishmash of elements. The standing KB2 The key for winding ...

Why Watchmaking Still Matters During A Pandemic – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 17, 2021

Why Watchmaking Still Matters During A Pandemic – Reprise

If you’re like GaryG, you’ve been spending some time during the current pandemic-driven lockdown monitoring online watch publications, including Quill & Pad, and you’ve likely seen at least a few comments in response to posts that go something like this, “How in the world can you possibly be focused on something like watches at such a terrible time?” Well, Gary is here to tell you.

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video) Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching Mar 15, 2021

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video)

De Bethune highlights that there is more than one way to rotate a watch, using its floating lug system to perfection in the new DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Look out, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching the blue tourbillon escapement beating away in high-def macro video is simply captivating: you'll want to watch it over and over and over.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 Mar 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition

Prospex is the largest growing Seiko line-up with buyers flocking to add pieces from the collection to their wrist. Highly robust and value-driven, these watches can be more affordable than their competitors with little to no sacrifice in the quality of fabrication. While many will refer to this watch as a new entry into the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Mar 15, 2021

Review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds

Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds In a world dominated by round wristwatches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso stands out as among the most recognisable non-round timepieces in the market. Deemed by many connoisseurs as a must-have watch in any collection, the success of this reversible, rectangular watch is not just down to its timeless design, butRead More