Hodinkee
Interview: New Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato On His Plans For The Brand, What It Means To Be ‘Made In England,’ And Developing A Hero Product
The watch industry veteran's first interview since joining Bremont.
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Hodinkee
The watch industry veteran's first interview since joining Bremont.
Worn & Wound
At the end of last year, Massena LAB had an unexpected hit with a pair of limited edition Type XX chronographs signed by Mathey-Tissot. Those watches were inspired by a watch in Massena LAB founder William Massena’s personal collection, and that’s also the genesis of his latest project bearing the Mathy-Tissot name. This time, the watch in question is the Mergulhador Skin Diver, a watch that you’d be forgiven for being enamored with based on name alone. “Mergulhador” means “diver” in Portuguese, and as you’d probably guess, the original version of the watch was marketed to the Portuguese market in the 1970s, and was aimed at both military and civilian customers. It’s a bit obscure, but that’s what’s fun about it, and why it makes sense for someone with Massena’s knowledge and background to bring it to a larger audience. The main attraction here is the dial, which is a rich amber fumé that gives the appearance of being weatherbeaten for decades. The amber color is complemented by bright orange hour markers and an orange minute track against a black background that feels right out of the 1970s central watch casting. The dial also features oversized white lume plots at each hour, the size of which is certainly in keeping with the general 1970s aesthetic. I think Massena LAB deserves credit here for resisting the urge to use a “faux-tina” tone for the lume. That might have been the obvious way to go for such a vintage influenced watch, but the to...
Deployant
The Ba111od Chapter 4.1 has had a great success with many requests for a smaller case. This is now introduced as Chapter 4.5 in a 40mm case.
Hodinkee
Rexhepi has carefully picked the lucky few to get his watches, but the auction will be the first data point for the watchmaker's potential wider market.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide co-hosted an exclusive showing of the Giorgio Armani x Parmigiani Fleurier Armani 11 watch at Melbourne’s Giorgio Armani boutique.The post Time+Tide Club x Giorgio Armani x Parmigiani Fleurier and the stunning Armani 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A red Defy for the Ron Burgundy actor.
Worn & Wound
The oldest WatchRecon alert that I currently have set up on my phone is for a “Zenith Retro Timer.” I also have an alert for a “Zenith Retrotimer,” because I figure if I’m not really sure how the name of this watch is stylized, maybe a potential seller isn’t either. I think I added this watch to my list of alerts sometime in 2018, or thereabouts. I was falling in love with Zenith as a brand, discovering all kinds of weird Defys from the 1970s and ana-digi watches from the 80s, but the novelty of the Retrotimer loomed especially large. This is Zenith’s continuously running, monopusher flyback execution of their famous El Primero chronograph movement. A push of the button near 4:00 sets the minute totalizer and chrono seconds hand immediately back to zero, but it just starts right up again. Zenith apparently didn’t make many of these (it’s kind of the definition of a niche product) and it seems like the kind of thing WatchRecon was invented for. I’ve always felt that we can learn a lot about ourselves, and our watch collecting friends, if we stop to consider our WatchRecon alerts. This simple app crawls over the most popular watch trading forums (Reddit’s r/watchexchange, WatchUSeek, Rolex Forums, etc) to find listings matching a search term. It takes the leg work out of searching every forum individually, and when you make use of automated alerts that tell you when something hits, you theoretically have a leg up on the competition, and can fire off a...
Worn & Wound
Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch. At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...
Time+Tide
The person in charge of Longines’ heritage reissues must have one of the watch world’s cushiest jobs. I always imagine them lazing around for most of the year – playing Wordle and drinking endless cups of coffee. Then, as their annual deadline looms, I picture them hastily thumbing through a dusty catalogue and selecting a … ContinuedThe post Longines remind us why they boast one of the watch world’s most enviable histories appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As I was examining the Patek Philippe ref. 96QL once owned by the last Emperor of China, I wondered about the state of the movement. The watch is clearly old – it was sold in almost a century ago – and was not running. Phillips wasn’t able to show me the movement on the spot, understandably considering the value of the watch, although they promised they would get me some information shortly. Their response was more than I expected. Taking the form of a forensic report detailing the materials and details of the watch – right down to a X-ray spectrographic analysis of the dial – the information reveals much about the watch. To start with, the spectrograph of the reverse of the dial reveals it is 92.4% silver, 6.94% copper, with the rest comprised of silver and gold. This finally answer the long-ago question posed by Puyi when he tasked his manservant “Big Li” to scrape off the dial’s coating in order to see if it is platinum like the case. It is but a brass dial plated in silver. The analysis of the dial’s back Inside the platinum case is an 11”’ movement that likely began as an ebauche from LeCoultre that was then completed by Victorin Piguet, which produced the simple calendar module on the top. The movement was then likely sent to Patek Philippe, which applied the finishing touches and cased it. The back of the movement is evidently classical, with the flowing bridges that were then the norm in movement design. It is also finished as high-end movemen...
Quill & Pad
Bombay Sapphire is one of the most widely used gins and the fastest growing premium gin in the world. These days, with the gincredible popularity of the spirit, that means it is one of the most loved and drunk spirits on the planet. Ken Gargett takes a deep dive.
Hodinkee
The perfect watch cases for travels near and far.
Worn & Wound
One of the things I love seeing in young watch brands is a strong, original point of view. There is no shortage of great, simple tool and sport watches available from brands new and old, making the space quite difficult to stake a new claim within. Getting off that well trodden path offers the opportunity to explore and express new ideas and flesh out off-genre watches in a manner that grants a new brand some breathing room. This is exactly what the brand Timeless has done with their latest watch, the HMS. This is a watch that defies simple categorization, yet feels genuinely approachable. Timeless has taken a big swing with the HMS, and while it doesn’t connect on every level, there’s plenty to enjoy in the point of view being expressed. The concept of the HMS was revealed in late 2020, and would go on to take shape over the following year, catching our attention along the way. The HMS is an immediately striking watch that eschews typical genre codes we generally expect to see, and while it struggles to balance the somewhat disparate elements, there’s some genuine charm to the underlying concept that feels rather refreshing. In the short time since its release, the HMS has already taken evolutionary steps, and what we have here is the HMS ref. 003. The HMS is a bit of an eyeful at a glance, with no clear focal point emerging between the ornate detailed structures that comprise the lugs, the case, and the dial, with each of those areas offering plenty of details to...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After nearly a decade of reviewing Seiko watches, we're sharing the best ones you need to know about if you're researching the brand.
Time+Tide
For those who were into scuba diving in the 1960s/70s and did not care for the professional-grade dive watches from Rolex and Blancpain, skin divers offered a more wearable and equally cool horological experience. Skin divers got their name from the fact that they were meant to be worn directly on the skin and not … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
While there’s plenty of (micro)brands out there doing their thing in their own unique way, there is no brand out there that quite does it like Studio Underd0g. Their funky two-register chronographs have captured the hearts of enthusiasts ever since they first released in 2020, stemming from unique, often food-related, inspiration. We’re excited to offer … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The post The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks appeared first on Worn & Wound.
We’re up to episode 50 of A Week in Watches! This week we’ve got several new releases with little in common other than being new. That’s fine by us though. First up is the brutal Ollech & Wajs 8001, their first integrated bracelet sports watch in 50 years. Then we have a Bremont testing instrument turned watch. After, we check out two new offerings from Aera, one in blue the other in gray. And finally, Omega dropped some new Aquaterra worldtimers that are worth knowing about. This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Come join the Windup Watch Shop for their first stream on Tuesday, April 23rd at 5PM Eastern, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop. Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 50: Omega’s Got the Whole World in their Hands appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
One of the original champions of the geometrical, integrated-bracelet watch design is Baume & Mercier, first entering that market with the 1973 Riviera. Its dodecagonal bezel and minimal dial layout were designed by Jean-Claude Gueit, preceding many integrated-bracelet icons by some years. David Chaumet has been steering the Baume & Mercier ship since 2019, and … ContinuedThe post “Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s fair to say that the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is one of the most famous watches of all time, up there even in the minds of the uninitiated. As the watch that went to the moon and thrived on racetracks, it’s cemented a strong legacy within horological history and has become a stylistic icon. As … ContinuedThe post 5 reasons you need to be familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Reduced appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
After reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe's Nautilus, it became clear to watch enthusiast and Quill & Pad reader Perry Heim that none stated a self-evident truth that appears obvious to him. In this "letter to the editor" Perry explains in detail what he finds so appealing about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711. And he stacks the Nautilus up against some serious contemporary contenders.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Teenage Engineering Teenage Engineering’s TP-7 Equips The Digital Recorder An Analog Feel Via Teenage Engineering You can bet that anything produced by Teenage Engineering is going to have a clean and distinguishable design. With a focus in developing high quality, Swedish designed electronics and synthesizers, there’s a consistent level of attention to detail across their range of products. Their latest is the TP-7 – a compact field recorder that combines their unique design language with an appealing analog feel. Via Teenage Engineering The TP-7 is built to record in all sorts of situations, from recording music to logging important thoughts for later on. Each button is strategically placed so that every function is accessible in the palm of your hand. The main feature is its mechanical tape reel which allows you to conveniently scrub through previous recordings or seamlessly navigate the TP-7 menu. Plus the actual look and feel of the center wheel adds to the cool factor that is sure to speak to all of us analog lovers. The Teenage Engineering TP-7 will r...
Time+Tide
Previously only available in Asia, the Citizen Tsuyosa is a value proposition that's edging closer to worldwide availability.The post The value-driven Citizen Tsuyosa NJ015 collection is finally set to hit the US market next week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With the Geneva auctions just having concluded, the spring sale season now moves to Hong Kong. The biggest event during auction week in the city will undoubtedly The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, an evening sale that take places at Phillips on May 23. The auction gets its name from the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL in platinum once owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last Emperor of China. Known to the market for several years but now going under the hammer for the first time, the watch might emerge as the year’s most valuable watch sold at auction – or it might not, given the mixed reputation of the final Qing Emperor. But regardless of the value, the Puyi’s Patek Philippe is an exceptionally interesting watch, both intrinsically and in terms of provenance. The provenance Phillips pulled out all the stops in marketing The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, no doubt an attempt to reach an audience beyond watch collectors. While the ref. 96QL is an exceedingly rare watch – and worth millions on its own – the provenance of this example is bona fide “Imperial”. The story of the watch is ably told in a documentary produced by Phillips especially for the auction. The 17-minute film explains how the life and times of Puyi, his fascination with timepieces, and importantly, how the ref. 96QL ended up in the possession of a Russian translator. Amongst the interviewees in the film is Russell Working, an American journalist who once profiled the Russian translator, Georgy Pe...
Time+Tide
If you’ve been paying attention to Time+Tide lately, I’m sure you’ve become aware that our store now stocks Baltic watches. As one of the world’s most beloved microbrands, this is an incredibly exciting time to start getting involved with their elegant range of retro divers and dress pieces. I tend to prefer smaller watches with … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The sixth and final season of AMC’s prestige drama series Better Call Saul, the prequel to the award-winning Breaking Bad, dropped on Netflix back in April, and a wristwatch that appears prominently in the series finale has caught the attention of avid small-screen watch spotters. Some of them may remember - while others may have missed - seeing the watch for the first time in Breaking Bad, where it played an even more significant symbolic role in the storyline of its owner, Walter White, played by multiple Emmy winning lead actor Bryan Cranston. Here is the story behind Walter White’s watch and why it is so much more than just a prop. When we first meet Walter White, in the premiere episode of Breaking Bad on January 20, 2008, he is a somewhat pitiable figure: an underpaid, underappreciated high school chemistry teacher who drives a Pontiac Aztek (remember those?), wears a cheap digital watch, and struggles to support his small family, which includes caring for a son with cerebral palsy. In that same pilot episode, Walter learns he has terminal cancer - a diagnosis that triggers the desperate and increasingly ruthless quest for illicit riches and power that defines the arc of the series, as Walter evolves from hapless, nondescript educator to the crystal meth kingpin of Albuquerque, New Mexico. (Series creator Vince Gilligan has described its high concept as “Mr. Chips becomes Scarface.”) The first watch that we saw Walter wearing is a fairly humble one, a ...
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thomas S. brings us a capable trio that isn’t afraid to step off the well beaten path. There’s new stuff, hard to get stuff, and kinda (but not really) old stuff, all bound by a great sense of style and practicality. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I’m a minimalist at heart. That doesn’t mean I always succeed. As far as watches are concerned, I certainly have more than three (though proudly less than ten). I’ve spent the last couple of years working towards attaining my own perfect three watch collection. These watches are the core of what I take traveling, and are the most worn of all of my watches. I find it a well-rounded collection, if still leaning towards being sporty. As my collection grows (and shrinks) over the years, I anticipate these three watches remaining at the forefront of my collection. Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 – $1000 The SARB017 was the first mechanical watch I ever bought myself. I picked it up just after Seiko quietly discontinued it, and was lucky enough to get it well under what they are selling for now, new or used. With the trusty and near-indestructible 6R15 caliber inside, the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 holds its own as a daily work watch beater. I should know, I wear it often when climbing and pruning trees as an arborist. The crown guards and second crown at 4 o’clock bely the A...
Worn & Wound
Vulcain has been around in one form or another since the mid-1800s. A few ownership changes, some rocky years, a shutdown, and two eventual revivals make up the long and rocky road that is the Vulcain brand. If you’ve heard of the brand before, it’s most likely that the Cricket is the watch you’re familiar with. The Cricket gets the most attention, being worn on the wrists of American Presidents and having a unique alarm complication that made it stand out from the pack. While the Cricket is great, there’s another watch that doesn’t get quite as much attention, but definitely deserves it, and that’s the Chronograph 1970’s. This new release from Vulcain is a true-to-form recreation of a watch they released back in the 1970s, right down to the spot-on vintage proportions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this charming 38mm chronograph from Vulcain. $2781 Vulcain Continues Revival With New Chronograph 1970’s Case Stainless Steel Movement Sellita SW510 M BH Dial Black on Black, semi-gloss sunray Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Double domed sapphire with AR coating Strap Black leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 38x46mm Thickness 12.4mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty 2yr Price $2781 Case Vulcain’s vintage proportions and style are spot-on here. Measuring 38mm wide by 12.4mm thick (a hefty portion of that taken up by the double domed sapphire crystal), the Chronograph wears like a dream. It’s not just about the dimensions, because the ...
Worn & Wound
Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. Boldr is an exciting young brand based our of Singapore and Malaysia and they really live up to their mantra of “Be Boldr”. With an impressive lineup of tool watches under their belt, Boldlr is becoming known for their serious value proposition, crafting spec-packed watches that fall within very reasonable price ranges. Today, we’re happy to announce that their newest collaboration with Nitecore is now in the Windup Watch Shop. Let’s take a look at this unique and fun meeting of the brands, where the result is a dinosaur-themed mashup that’s sure to bring out your inner child. The post Now In The Windup Watch Shop: Nitecore x Boldr Go Prehistoric On A New Collab appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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