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Hands-On With The Suprising Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Aug 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Suprising Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB

I’m going to be upfront. I was not a fan when I first saw pictures of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB. The watch started as an exclusive for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula 1 team and has now been made available to the public. People love to say that Tudor listened to […] Visit Hands-On With The Suprising Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB to read the full article.

Introducing – The Bianchet B1.618 Grand Date Sapphire Edition Pulls Back All Covers Monochrome
Aug 26, 2024

Introducing – The Bianchet B1.618 Grand Date Sapphire Edition Pulls Back All Covers

Bianchet has been carving out a name for itself for crafting high-tech shock-resistant sports tourbillon watches, with a signature tonneau shape. The curved profile, integrated rubber straps, and ultra-resilient construction ensure optimum comfort and performance under pretty much any circumstance. To showcase its watchmaking capabilities well beyond the complex openworked movements, Bianchet now presents the […]

Auction News: The Original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” Ref. 16599 Emerges at Phillips SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero Aug 26, 2024

Auction News: The Original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” Ref. 16599 Emerges at Phillips

A watch known to insiders but largely unknown, the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” came long before the modern-day version that arrived at Baselworld 2012. It was a ref. 16599 equipped with the cal. 4030 based on the Zenith El Primero that was produced sometime in the 1990s. Now the one-off “Zenith Rainbow” is going under the hammer at Phillips come November when the auction house stages Reloaded, a thematic sale dedicated to watches made between 1980 and 1999. Having been owned by a well-known collector for several years – the same gentleman sold another record-setting Rolex at Phillips several years ago – this ref. 16599 has a bezel set with sapphires in a rainbow graduated due, along with a diamond pave dial with blue sapphire hour markers. I happened to meet the prior owner of this watch and he related the story of how he came to possess the watch. Knowing that backstory, the lavish stone setting and almost-bespoke nature of the watch certainly makes sense. Today’s Rainbow in Everose, the descendent of the ref. 16599 Estimated at over CHF3 million, the Daytona “Rainbow” will be sold on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President during Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999. The auction catalogue will be available closer to the date of sale.  

Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Get All The Latest Watch News On Fratello Fratello
Aug 26, 2024

Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Get All The Latest Watch News On Fratello

The world of Haute Horlogerie is gearing up for yet another highly anticipated event as Geneva Watch Days 2024 draws near. Since its inception in 2020, this decentralized and innovative watch fair has rapidly become a cornerstone in the annual horological calendar. Designed with a flexible, open format, Geneva Watch Days allows independent and established […] Visit Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Get All The Latest Watch News On Fratello to read the full article.

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 530 How it Aug 26, 2024

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph

The chronograph is an on-demand complication, as its operation requires the user to active the function. As such, the chronograph, or more accurately a stopwatch, engages selectively with the going train of the watch. The chronograph wheel couples with the going train when engaged and uncouples when stopped or reset. The mechanism which makes this selective engagement possible is the clutch.  Arguably the most classical form of clutch is the horizontal clutch, also known as a lateral coupling. As suggested by the name, the coupling action takes place horizontally, with the clutch arm moving on a plane parallel to the movement. Because the mechanism is spread out laterally, it results in an intricate display of mechanics, which is one reason why the lateral coupling is desired by many enthusiasts. A eminently classical chronograph construction in a mid-20th century Patek Philippe ref. 530 How it works The fundamentals of the horizontal clutch are outlined in Figs. 1 and 2. Gear R1 is fixed to the seconds’ mobile, on the same axis, above the going train. The same mobile conveys the turning motion from the going train, and may carry the small seconds hand on the dial side. The clutch arm pivots on the same axis as R1 and carries an intermediary clutch wheel R2. In Fig. 1 the column wheel or cam (not shown) keeps the clutch uncoupled with the intermediary wheel R2 idling. In other words R2 is turning but not driving anything.   Fig 1. Image – Patek Philippe patent EP1437...

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronosport I’m not exaggerating Aug 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport

I’m not exaggerating when I say that the new Chronosport is one of the most anticipated releases from Nivada ever. The brand that knows how to create a re-edition did it again, and the watch community could not be happier about it. As always, we had the chance to go hands-on with the new Nivada […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” Fratello
Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Aug 25, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy”

Welcome to this Sunday Morning Showdown “Summer Edition.” Last week, we put two high-end golden travel timers up against each other. This week, two stainless steel divers from the more affordable side of the watch spectrum will battle it out. Both the Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” and the Certina DS Super PH1000M STC (short for […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” to read the full article.

New: OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300m America’s Cup Deployant
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m America’s Aug 24, 2024

New: OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300m America’s Cup

Introducing the OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M America's Cup, the brand's latest to commemorate its maritime heritage. This timepiece celebrates OMEGA's role as the Official Timekeeper of the 37th America's Cup with a design that's as functional as it is aesthetic, featuring a regatta countdown bezel and the iconic America's Cup trophy silhouette on the seconds hand.

REVIEW: Hands On With The King Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461 WatchAdvice
Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461 Aug 24, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The King Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461

We love a watch with colour, so we were happy to go hands-on with the new King Seiko SPB461 with the burgundy “grape” coloured dial for a week. What We Love The burgundy dial pops The bracelet’s look and feel Easy to wear, set, and forget watch What We Don’t The size may be a little small for some wrists Accuracy could be greater at the price point Darker coloured dial adds more light reflection compared to the lighter dials Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 King Seiko in its modern form hasn’t been around all that long. Having been re-launched in 2021 as a limited-edition re-creation of an original design, it was so successful among watch enthusiasts is was then subsequently launched as a regular lineup in 2022. Interestingly, each model in the King Seiko range is based on an original model from 1965, and when you look at the design codes, style, and sizing, you can see these ’60s vibes coming through. The original King Seiko from 1965. When you compare the original to the modern version, coloured dial aside, you can see exactly where all the design cues originated from. We covered a little bit of the history of King Seiko in our Hands On Review of the blue dial King Seiko KS1969 that Sameera wrote a week ago, and if you’ve not read it yet, then I suggest you check it out here. But in a nutshell, King Seiko started in 1961 when Daini Seikosha (Seiko), having concentrated on ladies pieces star...

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen Worn & Wound
Tissot connect Aug 23, 2024

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen

How does a vintage Tissot connect to Felipe Pikullik and some of the watch world’s most exciting and dynamic young independent watchmakers and brands? If you said through Dutch collector Niels Pedersen, you’d be very much on the right track. Take a quick look over at Niels’s Instagram (@nielsmpe) and you’ll be greeted by a genuinely envy-inducing assortment of watches. Even more remarkable? That each and every watch feels totally at home in Niels’s feed, whether he’s posting a one-of-a-kind piece from an under-the-radar indie, or his latest pickup from Seiko. So what does a collector like Niels look for in a watch? Well, it turns out it’s a pretty simple recipe. “Basically, I’m design-driven, so it has to be aesthetically pleasing. So that’s the first… and I want something that’s simple, fixable, and reliable because I’ve been sending watches back and forth to the manufacturer so many times,” he told me. “Design-driven and something that’s reliable, I’d say.”   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Niels Pedersen (@nielsmpe) Just because it’s easy to express doesn’t mean this simple philosophy wasn’t a lesson learned over time. The path that transformed Niels into the collector he is today started at a young age, with a little help from his mother. “When I was a kid, my mom used to travel to Asia all the time for work, and every time she would come home, she would have some kind of knockoff watch, either with Porsche o...

First Look – The Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Titanium Diver 200m Monochrome
Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Aug 23, 2024

First Look – The Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Titanium Diver 200m

If you’re an avid diver and watch enthusiast, the name Promaster should be more than familiar. Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different […]

G-SHOCK Introduces their Fourth Collaboration with Rui Hachimura Worn & Wound
Aug 23, 2024

G-SHOCK Introduces their Fourth Collaboration with Rui Hachimura

G-SHOCK has a long history of collaborations with athletes and the brand has worked its way into the culture of professional sports in a meaningful way over the years. It makes a lot of sense that G-SHOCK, a watch that is virtually indestructible, would be embraced by athletes performing at the highest level (and, to be fair, athletes who decidedly do not perform at the highest level). One of the brand’s most interesting relationships is with Rui Hachimura, the Japanese professional basketball player who currently plays for the Los Angeles Lakers. His collaborative watches with G-SHOCK tend to offer something a little more personal than the typical timepieces that athlete brand ambassadors help to sell. In other words, this isn’t just a G-SHOCK in a colorway that matches a jersey.  The new watch, a G-STEEL carrying reference GBM2100RH-1A, is inspired by both basketball and Hachimura’s personal history. The prominent colors here are gold (the dial), black (the case and strap), and red (the most prominent dial accents). The dial is meant to evoke the wooden floor of a basketball with red markings at each hour and also on each hand (G-SHOCK calls them “paint” markings, as in “in the paint”). We also find Hachimura’s signature “Black Samurai” logo on the caseback, a symbol combining the Japanese “Hachi” symbol (for his name and jersey number) along with a samurai sword motif. The symbol is based on a sketch by Hachimura’s mother and has followed him ...

Introducing – Porsche Design presents The Chronograph 1 – 50 Years 911 Turbo Edition Monochrome
Porsche Design presents Aug 23, 2024

Introducing – Porsche Design presents The Chronograph 1 – 50 Years 911 Turbo Edition

Knowing the close connection between Porsche, the car manufacturer, and Porsche Design, the studio founded by F. A. Porsche, we’ve become used to seeing watches paying tribute to the carmaker’s most emblematic releases. Now, in 2024, Porsche is celebrating the 50th anniversary of a true icon on wheels, the fastest street sports car of its […]

Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC Fratello
Urwerk EMC SR-71 - Aug 23, 2024

Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC

Let me take you back to 2014. This is the year that “Gangnam Style” reaches two billion views on YouTube and Luis Suarez bites an opponent at the World Cup. Did I refresh your memory? You would be forgiven if the 2014 GPHG award winners occupied a less prominent place in your mind. Let me […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC to read the full article.

Tissot Introduces PRX Grendizer Edition SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces PRX Grendizer Edition Aug 23, 2024

Tissot Introduces PRX Grendizer Edition

A tribute to the Japanese anime and manga series, about an alien robot, the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition is the latest variant of Tissot’s bestselling sports watch. It’s based on the standard PRX 40 mm and incorporates elements of the anime series, including a blue dial with a stamped motif of the titular robot and a seconds hand with a counterweight in the shape of Grenadier’s bladed weapon. Initial thoughts Although the update to the model is only cosmetic, the collaboration makes sense, especially given the affordable nature of the watch. With the obvious elements from the cartoon, the Grendizer theme is obvious and just right for an accessible sports watch. This is undoubtedly a unique take on the original PRX, but the fact that the Grendizer aesthetic is so strongly present might actually deter those who aren’t fans of the cartoon. Priced at US$825, the PRX Grendizer is a good value proposition, just like the standard model. In fact, for someone looking for a PRX that’s different – the standard model is a bit generic – this is much more compelling for essentially the same price. A giant flying robot The Grendizer edition has exactly the same dimensions as the standard model. The steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, satin-brushed on top with mirror-polished bevels along the edges of the case flank. Featuring an integrated bracelet, it wears smaller than it measures due to the slim case profile. Unlike the standard model, ho...

Portrait – David Candaux, An Independent Watchmaker with the Soul of the Vallée de Joux Monochrome
Aug 23, 2024

Portrait – David Candaux, An Independent Watchmaker with the Soul of the Vallée de Joux

Independent watchmaking has been on the rise over the past 20 years, and for good reason. Independent watchmakers are guided by passion and personal perspectives, leading to authentic creations and often crafted to a level unattainable in mass production. David Candaux’s motto, “Le Coeur et l’Esprit” (the heart and mind), perfectly captures this philosophy. Raised […]

Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M For The 37th America’s Cup Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Aug 23, 2024

Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M For The 37th America’s Cup

This year marks the fourth time Omega will fulfill the role of official timekeeper for the America’s Cup. The 37th edition of one of the world’s most prestigious sailing races will take place in Barcelona, where six teams will compete to win and become the defender for the next edition. To celebrate Omega’s important role […] Visit Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M For The 37th America’s Cup to read the full article.

L’Epée 1839 Unveils Racing Car Clock with Built-In Cigar Lighter SJX Watches
Chanel Aug 22, 2024

L’Epée 1839 Unveils Racing Car Clock with Built-In Cigar Lighter

Only recently taken over by LVMH, L’Epée 1839 is celebrating its 185th anniversary with the T35, a clock shaped like a 1920s racing car, specifically the acclaimed Bugatti Type 35, which set several records and won numerous Grand Prix. But the T35 is more than a clock – the removable engine block is actually a cigar lighter. Initial thoughts L’Epée 1839 is known for both its own clocks and the many collaborations with brands like MB&F; or Chanel. Although they are actual time-telling devices, L’Epée’s creations are usually elaborate kinetic sculptures which also happen to be built around clockwork. This is the case with the T35 as well. In itself the movement is not very advanced, but the T35 is more of an interactive kinetic sculpture rather than a serious chronometer. Bringing to mind the New York taxi clock made for Tiffany & Co., the T35 is a desktop timekeeper with clever details that allow the owner to interact with, like turning the steering wheel to set the time. The built-in lighter feels kitschy on its face, but is actually a logical and useful addition to the clock given the context. Such a clock will inevitably sit on a desk or coffee table, and cigars are a probable vice for many of the potential owners. A racing machine The T35 takes the shape of a classic racing car with aluminium bodywork on a steel chassis. The bodywork is available in classical racing colours: French racing blue, British racing green, Obsidian black, and Rosso Corsa. The elo...

The Seiko 7559-5010: Admiring the Brand’s First Backlit Analog Movement in its Most Unique Form Worn & Wound
Seiko 7559-5010 Admiring Aug 22, 2024

The Seiko 7559-5010: Admiring the Brand’s First Backlit Analog Movement in its Most Unique Form

In this hobby of ours, there constantly exists the urge to dive down new rabbit holes and subgenres of watch collecting, awaiting the next reason for us to open our wallets and find a reason to justify purchasing another piece. While this typically takes the form of a unique color combination or bezel insert, what about a function like backlights? Sure, Timex’s Indiglo has most certainly found mainstay within the watch industry––as has Casio’s Electro Luminesce technology and of course lume––but what others are out there? For those who haven’t had the pleasure, I now have the honor of introducing you to the fairly forgotten Seiko 7559 movement, utilized here in its most unique application: the 5010 model.  A Brief History of the Cal. 7559 and its Applications As is the story with most watches I tend to develop an interest in, little is known about the design process behind this movement or model outside of repair manuals, blog posts, and owner photographs. The information included here is based on my own research, and I invite anyone interested in this model or movement to include any additional material they may know in the comments section below. Though I’ve attempted to collect as much information on the subject as possible, I would be delighted to hear that more pictures or materials of any kind exist elsewhere.  Production of the cal. 7559 began somewhere in the summer months of 1978 and continued until the late 1980s. The quartz movement itself is a...

Industry News: Chanel Invests in MB&F; Worn & Wound
Chanel Invests Aug 22, 2024

Industry News: Chanel Invests in MB&F;

News broke this morning that Chanel has invested a 25% stake in MB&F;, one of our favorite independent brands. The investment comes on the eve of MB&F;’s 20th anniversary year, and is being framed by the brand as future-proofing the company. “It was our responsibility,” according to a statement from founder Max Büsser, “in today’s very favourable context and with our management team in its prime, to take this major step to ensure our long-term future.” MB&F; founder Max Büsser Büsser retains a majority stake in the company (60%) while his partner and Head of R&D; & Production Serge Kriknoff owns 15%. According to the statement released by MB&F;, the brand will continue to be run independently by the current leadership team, which also includes Charris Yadigaroglou (Head of Marketing Communications) and Thibault Verdonckt (Head of Sales). Brands taking on investment is of course nothing new, and the decision of a niche independent that has displayed over multiple decades that it’s capable of not only sustaining itself but growing feels like a smart business decision. It plays directly into a topic that comes up a lot in the world of independent watchmaking: What happens when a founder moves on? While there is no indication that Büsser is stepping aside anytime soon, longevity is something always on the mind of watch collectors. This is an industry, after all, where some brands can trace their roots to the 18th century. We covered this very topic in a Q&A; podcas...