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Accutron Accutron has built Apr 17, 2023

San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023 Product Preview!

The SF Windup Watch Fair is closer than ever! If you’ve been following along, you know Windup is growing fast. This year, we are returning to the same venue in San Francisco and doubling the floorplan, meaning more watches, more live events, more accessories, and a whole lot more in general. There will be hundreds of watches, watch accessories, and EDC items on display to try on and purchase. You don’t want to miss it. As a reminder, here are the key event details: Terra Gallery – 511 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94105 Friday, April 28: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, April 29: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, April 30: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Here’s a sneak preview of just some of the watches from our Lead Sponsors you’ll be able to get your hands on at Windup this year. For a full roster of presenting brands, scheduled events, and a product showcase, head to windupwatchfair.com and join our email community. Accutron Accutron has built a name in innovation and exploration. Offering the world’s first fully electronic watch in 1960, Accutron changed the way the world told time. In 1962, Bulova produced the Accutron Astronaut, a 214-based GMT timepiece with a 24-hour rotating bezel, secondary 24-hour hand and hack function. Originally made for high altitude CIA spy plane missions in conjunction with emerging NASA rocket technologies, it also found commercial success. Accutron is proud to bring back the 1968 “T” version of the Astronaut model, featuring a di...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Zenith s aviation heritage cemented Apr 16, 2023

How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal

Take a look at some of the most famous pilot’s watches of all time, and ask yourself what they’re missing. It won’t appear obvious at first, but once you’ve realised then it will seem like a glaring omission forever. The answer is of course the word “pilot” itself, which is entirely due to Zenith registering … ContinuedThe post How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hodinkee

Cartier Apr 15, 2023

Interview: The Man Behind The Cartier Renaissance

Since taking over as CEO, Cyrille Vigneron has put Cartier's watches on equal footing with its jewelry - releasing a slew of desirable new timepieces (and re-issuing some coveted favorites). In this wide-ranging interview, he explains the strategy behind the success.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Rolex Submariner Apr 15, 2023

Richard Hammond reveals the Rolex Submariner that was burnt alive in his terrible car crash

Richard Hammond and his Rolex Submariner both survived a fiery car crash.The post Richard Hammond reveals the Rolex Submariner that was burnt alive in his terrible car crash appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Apr 15, 2023

In Praise Of Habring2: A Collector’s View - Reprise

If you’re just beginning to collect the works of independent watchmakers, GaryG suggests that you give careful consideration to watches from Habring2, the small independent Austrian watchmaking company founded and headed by Maria Kristina and Richard Habring.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Piaget finds themselves Apr 15, 2023

Piaget finds themselves in the limelight with new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Piaget has a lot of in-house know-how within their manufacture, and this has allowed them to be not only a champion of ultra-thin watchmaking but also exquisite jewellery watches as well. After a ‘touch and feel’ session within the Piaget booth, Kylie and I stepped outside to react to two different segments of their novelty … ContinuedThe post Piaget finds themselves in the limelight with new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Formex Essence Leggera Apr 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera

A big part of the appeal of micro-brands* rests in their ability to exercise a greater level of general creativity to bring a specific vision to life, something we’ve always found value in around here. We’ve seen some pretty sophisticated stuff take shape, from unique hand sets and dials, to wandering hours and composite cases. One brand in particular has proven rather adept at implementing what I have no issues calling exotic engineering solutions to their watches, and that brand is Formex. With “roots in high-end watch manufacturing” that should come as no surprise, and while the brand’s own aesthetic has undergone some pretty wild transitions, they seem to have landed in a cohesive space with their latest generations of watches in the Essence, Reef, and Field collections.  *Okay, Formex isn’t exactly a micro-brand. They are attached to that noted “high-end watch manufacturer” in a way that very, very few brands (large or small) are. This allows them access to engineer solutions for things like quick adjustment mechanisms in a manner that almost zero micro-brands can. Formex is a small (but not really) manufacturer that produces their own watches, which take full advantage of that fact. The micro-brand or small-independent nomenclature doesn’t neatly apply here, but given the price points that Formex tends to play in, I view them along the same lines as more traditional micro-brands the likes of which we frequently discuss around here. $1790 [VIDEO] Ow...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 14, 2023

Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection

Inspired by the world-famous Belvedere Palace in Vienna, Austria The Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere continues the brand’s aesthetic codes of contrasting directional lines The “Suchy Twist” is a new date display that changes position each day Watch enthusiasts are constantly stacking watches up against each other, drawing parallels in the design codes and dissecting … ContinuedThe post Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 13, 2023

Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents

As watch collectors get more and more access to information through either the internet or brand transparency, the glowing sheen that once accompanied the term “in-house” has started to lose its shine. There are plenty of loopholes a company can go through to earn the in-house title, and because it’s not a protected term like … ContinuedThe post Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 12, 2023

New releases show platinum is the heavy metal that it’s still OK to like

The English physicist and mathmatician Sir Isaac Newton believed that for every action there is an equal opposite reaction. Chinese cosmology stands by a similar universal concept in the form of the yin yang that pertains to contrary but interconnected forces. Admittedly, this is rather piddly compared to those grand ideas, but I wonder if … ContinuedThe post New releases show platinum is the heavy metal that it’s still OK to like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Simon Brette Apr 12, 2023

One To Watch: After A Decade Working For Big Names, Simon Brette Steps Out On His Own

With a passion for supporting and celebrating the best craftsmen in watchmaking, Brette has made one of the most exciting watches of the year.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Apr 12, 2023

The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race

Norqain is now the official timekeeper of the Zürich Marathon The Zürich Marathon is celebrating its 20th anniversary The 20 Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition watches feature a dial with a map of Zürich and the marathon track Norqain is a watch brand that refuses to sit still, and understandably so. Considering the brand … ContinuedThe post The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hodinkee

A. Lange & Sohne Apr 11, 2023

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

It takes guts to release just one watch at Watches & Wonders, but Lange didn't disappoint.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Apr 10, 2023

Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet

Over the last few years, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf has generated a head of steam in the collector community, becoming an unlikely talking point among enthusiasts as new iterations have been released at a fast clip. These watches have a common thread in that they all pay a certain amount of respect to classic vintage designs, but Zodiac has been extremely willing to play with color, and that’s been a large part of their success with this line in the recent past. Across both limited editions and releases in the permanent collection, Zodiac has proven that they aren’t afraid to experiment, and that exclusively creating sober dive watches without much of a personality is of little interest to them. This new release, then, feels like the culmination of what we’ve seen in Zodiac’s recent strategy, with what might be their most colorful watch yet, which ironically doesn’t even have a traditional dial.  The new Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton prominently features the STP 6-15 automatic movement, plainly visible from the dial side. This is the first time we can recall Zodiac using a skeleton design in a modern context, and certainly within their dive watch line, so it speaks to their confidence in and pride in the STP caliber that they’d be willing to show it off in such a way. STP, of course, is Fossil owned movement manufacture that is a sister brand to Zodiac, and has played a large role in outfitting their recent releases with high quality, competitively priced...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Apr 10, 2023

The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin drops an incredible one-of-one reference from its Les Cabinotiers collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 The Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication is a two-dialled expression of the pinnacle of Vacheron’s craft No less than 774 components make up the elaborate movement that boasts 11 complications It’s hard to overstate the level of … ContinuedThe post The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 10, 2023

The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now

Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Apr 9, 2023

A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox

TAG Heuer introduced a facelifted Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with new box-dome crystal Colours are inspired by the piece’s racing heritage and fit into the new Chronograph 42mm line-up as well New and reduced 42mm size for a Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon As part of the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera model, TAG Heuer is launching … ContinuedThe post A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Urwerk auctions Apr 9, 2023

Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster

Not many watch brands can be proud of the fact that their watches are inspired by dinosaurs, but the deviant horologists over at Urwerk can claim at least two pieces that have drawn inspiration from these overgrown lizards – the UR-100 T-Rex and UR-105 T-Rex. It is the latter that serves as the base for … ContinuedThe post Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Patek Philippe s Grandmaster Chime Apr 9, 2023

Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers

Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch is updated with a subtle brown and gold colour scheme, and an outlandish gem-set variant The reversible case houses 20 complications, including two patented exclusives – a date repeater and alarm that sounds the programmed time 118 emeralds and 291 diamonds, both baguette-cut, total nearly 30 carats of gems on … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 8, 2023

Why watch puns tick me off

In the world of horological journalism, where centuries-old companies lord over a multi-billion dollar industry and push the boundaries of mechanical engineering and art simultaneously, it’s pretty much considered a crime to write a pun into your articles. If you ask me, it’s a total waste of time. Most writers would never stoop that low, … ContinuedThe post Why watch puns tick me off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Casio n Apr 8, 2023

Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs

During the golden age of air travel, all seats on a plane were pretty much first-class seats. At the dawn of intercontinental flight, travellers dressed for the occasion, and the experience was much more genteel, even elegant, especially when compared with today’s post-apocalyptic hellscape. Sadly, modern flying has become a soul-crushing exercise, with stressed-out travellers … ContinuedThe post Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Bovet Apr 8, 2023

IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials

Despite the age of the watchmaking trade, there aren’t too many brands that can boast 200 years of history. Those that do often have insular development, still operating from within their small town beginnings and sometimes run by the original family. The story of Bovet is much more diverse, including a multitude of characters and … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Apr 7, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Stephen Nichols

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Stephen Nichols shares not three, but four watches, and somehow still manages to stay under budget. This collection is a testament to micro-brands bringing something a little different to the table, and highlights just how far you can stretch your budget on some truly awesome watches. Stephen was even kind enough to provide his own photography of the watches, so all credit to @talkingabouttime for the imagery within. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  The old adage, “anything worth doing is worth overdoing,” is as true to watch collecting as it is to anything else. Thankfully, you don’t have to skimp on quality and design for a three-watch collection even when you’re on a budget. Micro-brands are offering up more than just great value, they’re giving us a personalized experience on top of it. Go to a watch fair or slide into a brand’s DMs, and chances are good you’ll be greeted by a dreamer who’s just itching to show you what they’ve made and why they made it. You can score an incredible watch that matches your style and also tells a personal story about the designer. Here’s a list of three, ok maybe four watches that deliver huge value for under $5,000. Watches that I’d be proud to add to my personal collection. Typsim – 200M – $1,199 How do you capture the charm of a vintage diver in a modern packag...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Panerai Radiomir California offers Apr 7, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial

The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Panerai Introduces their First Annual Apr 7, 2023

Panerai Introduces their First Annual Calendar as Part of the Radiomir Collection

Among the new releases from Panerai at this year’s Watches & Wonders, we find what amounts to a first from the brand: a pair of annual calendars. While Panerai has dabbled in perpetual calendars, the annual calendar compilation is a new venture. This has always felt like an under-appreciated complication to me in an environment where perpetual calendars tend to get all the plaudits. For the relatively minor inconvenience of having to make a manual adjustment to the calendar on the first day of March, you get a calendar complication that’s very nearly “set it and forget it” at what often amounts to a significant discount over comparable perpetuals. While these new Panerais aren’t exactly rubbing up against the value end of the spectrum (they are both well into the five figures, with cases in precious metals), they do represent something genuinely new in the Panerai catalog, which is always going to be of interest to the brand’s dedicated base of collectors.  The new annual calendars are both found in the Radiomir collection, which is Panerai’s sleeker case design (compared to the Luminor) with vintage style wire lugs and a squared off cushion case shape. Gold and platinum options are available (Panerai refers to their alloys as “Goldtech” and “Platinumtech”) and the cases measure 45mm in diameter. Panerai enthusiasts and collectors will tell you that a 45mm Radiomir case wears quite a bit smaller than the numbers would indicate, because thanks to the ...

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Time+Tide

Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends Apr 7, 2023

The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility

The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope is now available with a blue dial. The 45mm watch is fully featured with 200m of water resistance. Its style is a great blend between dressy sophistication and all-out sports utility. Junghans first released the Meister S Chronoscope in 2020, and in hindsight it’s hard to believe that it’s taken … ContinuedThe post The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko design Apr 7, 2023

Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida

Grand Seiko has attracted a wide base of watch enthusiasts to their products. Previously an underdog trying to break through in regions outside of Japan, there has to be some special quality to the DNA of their watches to garner attention away from usual suspects like Rolex and Omega. Irrefutably the special ingredient in the … ContinuedThe post Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Bulova Apr 6, 2023

The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons

When iconic American watchmaking brands are brought up, it’s impossible not to mention Bulova. Born out of the mind of Joseph Bulova in 1875, the brand has been making quality timepieces for nearly one and a half centuries, with the brand’s 150th anniversary coming up soon. When a brand gets their start so early in the grand scheme of American history, you can trace the watches back to specific periods of innovation and design language. Today, we’re exploring the breadth of Bulova by highlighting some of their most iconic models that are still made today. Whether you want to learn about WWII watches from the 1940s, space-worn watches of the 1960s, brightly-colored dive watches of the 1970s, or technology from the dawn of quartz watches, Bulova has something to pique your interest. Let’s take a closer look at some modern interpretations of some of Bulova’s most recognizable timepieces. The post The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound

Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Apr 6, 2023

The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case

Just a few short years ago, Rolex surprised all of us by returning the Explorer to its 36mm roots, after a relatively short stint at 39mm. I discuss that move and the watch itself at length in this review of the ever charming 124270. While many lamented the change, there is certainly no shortage of larger sport watches across the Rolex catalog to choose from. This year, Rolex again returns to the Explorer, adding an entirely new size option to live alongside the 36mm case, offering something for everyone with a new Explorer 40 reference 224270. They’ve managed to fix some of the odd proportion issues that plagued the old 39mm 214270 in the process.  The new Rolex Explorer 40 at left, existing 36 at right. The Explorer 40 was was one of many new releases from Rolex this year, and largely fell into quiet territory alongside blockbusters like a new Daytona, a titanium Yacht-Master, an entirely new formal range called Perpetual 1908, and a pair of unusually colorful watches in the OP and Day-Date range. But, for fans of the Explorer missing a larger option, this was a momentous release worth celebrating. This simple, perhaps iconic even, Rolex dial is now more accessible to more wrists than ever, and more options are always a good thing in my book. The Explorer 40 is exactly what it sounds like, a slightly scaled up Explorer with the same dial and case design as the 36. Most importantly, the scale and proportions of the 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals, as well as the block hour...

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Worn & Wound

Luminox Apr 6, 2023

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

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