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Quill & Pad
Alex has been a serious watch collector for decades, but it's only in the last few years that he has focused his attention to independent watchmakers. Here he shares the story of his collecting journey and why he bought a Vincent Deprez Tourbillon Classique Souscription Edition
Teddy Baldassarre
While many of watchmaking’s most prestigious brands claim to build watches designed for the military (and especially for elite special forces), the reality is that the majority of soldiers, sailors, airmen, marines, and yes, coasties don’t make the kind of cash necessary to play in the luxury watch space. Still, the military remains a calling in which early is on time and on time is late, so watches are essential gear and, in many cases, a required uniform item. So, what watches do military members wear? To be frank, our evidence would seem to indicate that the overwhelming majority of military members wear inexpensive quartz digital watches like the ubiquitous Casio G-Shock and Timex Ironman. While both are fine watches in their utilitarian category, some service members want something a bit more elevated, combining the classic aesthetic and function of an analog watch with some military flavor and toughness. Military watches have, of course, transcended the military itself, becoming a popular style for watch collectors thanks to their utility and purpose-oriented designs. Luckily, there are a ton of incredible military watch options out there suitable both for service members and civilians alike. Wanting a refined aesthetic doesn’t mean you can’t also have "mil-spec" levels of durability, legibility, and reliability. You just have to know where to look. Here we showcase 40 watches that combine a tacti-cool aesthetic with functionality for survivin...
Worn & Wound
Ace Jewelers, based in Amsterdam, has carved out a reputation for themselves as creators of some of the best limited edition collaborations between watch brands and retail partners. Yes, this is a category that has been growing steadily over the years, but it’s worth pointing at that Ace has been at it for a long time, well before the watch market reached the state of collab hysteria that we currently find ourselves in. Many collectors are probably aware of their regular limited releases with Nomos (they’ve done six, and they always sell out very quickly) but they’ve expanded their portfolio this year, introducing collaborations with Elka and Nivada. Their most recent LE introduces another new brand into the fold, Frederique Constant, with a version of their Highlife Worldtimer that draws on aesthetic cues established in earlier Ace releases. The Highlife Worldtimer remains one of the more compelling Frederique Constant references. The Highlife platform feels refreshingly contemporary (even though it’s based on 1970s design cues) compared to what we often think of when we picture a Frederique Constant in the mind’s eye. If your impression of the brand is that of a maker of watches in a more classical, dressier, and simply old-fashioned style, than the Highlife, a sleek integrated bracelet sports watch, is almost transgressive. And it’s proven to be a worthy canvas for Frederique Constant’s not-so-secret weapon: affordable complications. The Worldtimer, of c...
Teddy Baldassarre
The definition of an everyday watch can, of course, be highly subjective, based on one’s individual needs, tastes, and budget (I have met people who rock A. Lange & Söhne, F.P. Journe, and even Richard Mille as their “everyday” brands). But most of us can get behind Teddy’s idea that an everyday watch is one that combines versatility with specifications suited for day-to-day needs; it can be dressed up or down, is highly legible in most conditions, and is water resistant enough for worry-free daily wear (i.e., rated to at least 50 meters). As a timepiece that will spend much more time actually on the wrist than in a safe, it should also be affordable. Hence, our selection of the 21 best everyday watches starts under $500 and tops out under $10,000. Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the recently introduced NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish: blue, yellow, green, turquoise, and black. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for...
Worn & Wound
Thinness in a watch, real thinness, the type that requires the word “thin” to be in the name, is almost like a complication unto itself. This is not an original observation, but I think it bears repeating, especially when a watch is impressively, almost hilariously thin. The new MAEN Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin fits neatly into this category, taking every aspect of the popular 37mm version of the watch up a notch. To me it feels akin, almost, to the Lorier Hydra SIII released last year. Not because it has anything specific in common with that watch, but because it represents the manifestation of a type of watch enthusiasts have been dreaming of at an accessible price point for years. Before we get too deep into the wearing experience, let’s start with the numbers. The tale of the tape, for the MAEN 39 matters in a way I’d normally brush off. The 39mm diameter is just slightly larger than the original Manhattan. In truth, when you have the watches side by side, they look very similar. Part of this is because 2mm in this dimension is just not a whole lot of real estate on a case that’s elongated toward the bracelet sides, and part of it is a visual trick of the eye. $999 Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin Case Stainless steel Movement ETA 7001 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 39 x 47.8mm Thickness 6.9mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $999 Where the differences be...
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Worn & Wound
The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT has always straddled that line between ritzy and rough, and we can separate them into two stylistic buckets: dressy and sporty. While the line between the two is often blurred and the definitions themselves somewhat subjective, we thought it would be fun to see how this useful complication has found its way into watches of all kinds. So without further ado, this is your Sunday Smackdown: GMT Edition. The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT h...
Hodinkee
The watch world freaked out upon its release last month at the 100th running of Le Mans. Now we've seen it in real life, and we have thoughts.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Magnet Fishing in NYC Did you pick up a new hobby during the Covid-19 lockdowns? Many of us tried our hands at baking bread, taking on arts and crafts projects, urban (and rural) hiking, and a thousand other things. James Kane, profiled recently in the New York Times, developed an interest in something a little more obscure, but unlike many of the would-be sourdough experts among us, Kane has stuck with his new pastime. Magnet fishing involves, well, dropping a magnet into a body of water and seeing what you can pull up. Kane has been doing this all over New York City for the last few years, and is hoping to build a YouTube following. It’s not the most ridiculous idea. There’s plenty of junk at the end of those magnets, but sometimes Kane finds something valuable, or interesting, that sheds light on the city’s history. Like that time he found a live grenade. Who wouldn’t want to watch that YouTube video? The Paré Paré Podcast The Paré Paré podcast is a new venture brought to us in part by the guy behind the popular Longbeach Watch Club Instagram account, featuring focused di...
Time+Tide
Christopher Ward, the British brand known for its budget-friendly, well-made, and relatively safely designed sports watches, went on to release something new that would change their brand forever: a chiming watch.The post How the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto strikes a chord with enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Piaget has released four new High Jewelry watches that continue the theme of the Lunar New Year. It looks to be 3 Dragon watches and a Phoenix watch in rose gold, although the press release and other publications reproducing the same release seem to suggest there are 2 of each. From the rendered images, it appears to be one dragon and a phoenix in 32mm Altiplano case, one 41mm Altiplano High Jewelry Dragon and finally, a Dragon Piaget Emperador watch, featuring a flying tourbillon.
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Time+Tide
It’s time again to look back on The Year That Was, and take a moment to reflect upon the bastions of my personal watch rotation. Some pieces are purely sentimental: a thread connecting the past, a meaningful gift from a loved one, or a personal trophy marking a significant life event. Others are dispassionately pragmatic: … ContinuedThe post The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Back in 2019, we inaugurated the Petrolhead Corner as a way to provide a break from all the watch-related news we bring you and to share another passion that runs deep for several members of MONOCHROME’s Editorial Team. Our love for cars has since grown into a weekly column full of amazing car stories from […]
Time+Tide
Ten years. A decade. 69 years, in dog years. That’s how long Time+Tide has been going. To celebrate this milestone, We. Are. Going. To. Party. For Aussies, this means a ‘Big Day Out’ X 5 (or a week-long Lollopalooza or Glastonbury if you don’t know the reference) in our Watch Discovery Studio in Melbourne, Australia. … ContinuedThe post T+T10: A week of Studio events and three boutique editions to celebrate our 10th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
No matter your budget, taste, or experience in the hobby, it seems like the entire watch community is in agreement: it was a great year for watches. Not just for new releases, but for the watch community, for talking about watches, and for being involved in this strange but incredibly fun world. We asked our team of Editorial staff members and contributors to pick their Watch of the Year. It could be a new release that they own, or don’t own, an addition to the collection, or any watch that spoke to them in 2023. The selections are wonderfully diverse, and speak to the huge variety of watches we were able to collectively experience this year. More than that, they underline vibrancy of the watch world, and seem to point to a movement toward watches that are unique or special in some way. We had a great time talking to you about watches this year, and we can’t wait to bring you even more from every corner of the watch world in 2024. Happy new year! Zach Weiss My watch of the year is the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. Yes, it came out in 2022, but this was the year I got to wear it…and wear it I did. And I think it also colored the watch world itself in 2023, setting a new standard, showing what brands that were formerly ignored by the industry at large can do. Proof of this was its well-earned GPGH award. Now, I’m working on an owner’s review, so I don’t want to spoil that, but the gist is this: I can’t get over it. It’s a watch that still brings me j...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been following along on the website and podcast over the last several months, you already know about how much I enjoy Arcanaut, the small independent watchmaker based in Denmark. I reviewed my own Arc II Fordite earlier this year, a watch that, when it was all said and done, was likely my most worn of the year. We’ve also covered recent releases that are a bit more straightforward than their dials created with paint drippings from American auto factories. The latest news from Denmark, though, is strange enough that Arcanaut has put their next two pieces in the “Experimental” category, and if the avant-garde nature of their previous work is appealing, these are likely to scratch a similar itch. The new watches coming to the Arc II platform in the third quarter of next year both incorporate a creative use of materials (the brand’s primary guiding principle) in exciting ways. First out of the gate, we’ve got the Bonehead, named for the marrow-like pattern on the dial. That dial is fully lumed, but that’s not really what makes it interesting. What makes it compelling is the manufacturing process devised by Arcanaut’s James Thompson, which involves combining electric blue discs of lume, aerospace grade aluminum foam, and industrial resin, which Arcanaut has used previously to bind together the non-traditional materials that go into each dial. The end result is a uniquely textured, full lume dial that should be pretty impressive in its final form. T...
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In this super sized episode of Inside the Collection, Blake Buettner talks to Carryology’s Taylor Welden about his approach to watch and bag collecting. Obviously, with Taylor, bags are a pretty big aspect to his collecting philosophy and daily carry. On the watches side, however, he stops short of calling himself a collector, and lives by a refreshing “No Watch is Sacred” mantra. His three watch collection consists of limited edition watches that he actually uses day to day. Not only that, he’s taken the step of modifying them to meet his needs and taste. Bezel and strap changes that might be sacrilegious to some were obvious choices for Taylor. On the bag front, Taylor takes us through his Mystery Ranch x Carryology Unicorn 2.0, which was the one and only bag he brought with him on his recent trip to NYC to visit the Worn & Wound offices. Taylor gives us a look at how he packs for one bag travel, and even if you think of yourself as an efficient packer, you’re certain to pick up some helpful tips when you see how Taylor has accounted for every square inch of space in his bag. Then, we check out Blake’s bag from Wotan Craft, a shoulder bag with a very different use case than Taylor’s travel bag, but is no less interesting and functional. The post Inside the Collection: Watches and Bags with Taylor Welden appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Young Watchmaker Remy Cools was in the Sunny Island of Singapore recently and we caught up with him. How does this up and coming watch maker incorporates the ideas of 18th and 18th century French watch making into his watches.
Worn & Wound
Since Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega started Lorier Watches in 2018, their stated goal has been to make a watch that you could wear everyday for the rest of your life. With the new Astra, they’ve come as close as ever to achieving that lofty goal. For those few of you who may be unfamiliar with the brand, Lorier has, over the last five years, taken the enthusiast world by storm. Since their public unveiling in 2018, Lorier has produced a series of vintage inspired watches that punch way above their weight - both in fit and finish, as well as design consideration. I got my first Lorier, a Neptune V.2, in the fall of 2019 and wore it just about everyday for a year. It was the first dive watch that really stuck around in my collection and, during the early days of the pandemic, it was my constant companion. I adored that watch. With its bulbous Hesalite crystal and simple painted dial, it was undoubtedly the watch that taught me to love dive watches. $499 Review: the Lorier Astra Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Blue, silver Lume Yes Lens Hesalite Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 36 x 44mm Thickness 9mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $499 If you know me, or if you were to read my take on the “3 Watch Collection for $5000,” it should be obvious that I still love dive watches. I wear a dive watch most days and would offer up that, pound for pound, dollar for dollar, a rotating dive bezel is the most usefu...
Worn & Wound
Of all the archetypes in the big wide watch world, the dive watch and its staying power is unparalleled for collectors, enthusiasts, and the watch-buying public at large. The reasons for this are many but at the most basic level, dive watches are just easy to live with; they are usually robust and durable, have interesting features like bezels and waterproof cases, and just look cool. From both storytelling and product specifications standpoints, they are readily understood and appreciated. As we wrap up the year, here are a few dive watch releases that have stood out to us. All of them can be found right here in the Windup Watch Shop, and all can serve as lifelong companions. In no particular order, here are your Top 5 Dive Watches of 2023… Of all the archetypes in the big wide watch world, the dive watch and its staying power is unparalleled for collectors, enthusiasts, and the watch-buying public at large. The reasons for this are many but at the most basic level, dive watches are just easy to live with; they are usually robust and durable, have interesting features like bezels and waterproof cases, and just look cool. From both storytelling and product specifications standpoints, they are readily understood and appreciated. As we wrap up the year, here are a few dive watch releases that have stood out to us. All of them can be found right here in the Windup Watch Shop, and all can serve as lifelong companions. In no particular order, here are your Top 5 Dive Watches ...
Monochrome
We’re all well aware how the luxury sports watch segment has exploded over the past few years. To the point, sadly, where the usual suspects have become unavailable and often subject to speculation. Luckily, though, affordable alternatives have penetrated the market, and even independent watchmakers have stepped up to meet demand. Although the market has […]
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Monochrome
Next up in our rundown of this year’s ‘Greatest Hits’ is a list of calendar watches, specifically Annual and Perpetual Calendar watches. Looking back at what brands have brought to the table in this category only confirms the appeal of a watch that keeps track of more than just the passing of time. With indications […]
Quill & Pad
Cars and watches, watches and cars: they do seem to go together! Scratch almost any watch lover and you’re going to find a car lover just under the surface. GaryG talks with his pal "Enzo" in this interesting discussion about the similarities and dissimilarities of car and watch collecting.
Worn & Wound
Back in the 1950s when you were setting off for a distant land, a key piece of gear would be your trusty tool watch. Today, you’d reach for something like a Rolex Explorer II with its chunky steel case and bezel, bold handset and healthy application of lume. A Seiko SPB143 would make an excellent option on a tighter budget where other spendy gear takes priority. The point I’m trying to make is that the tool watch as we know it is today typically something big, chunky, robust, and borderline aggressive looking. The landscape for tool watches was completely different back in the 50s. If you were one of the American Navy’s Deep Freeze 1 task force and on your way to the South Pole back in 1955, the watch you would have been wearing is significantly different from the modern tool watch. That watch would have been the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - a slim, art deco-inspired watch that was built tough, but not in the way you may think of it today. The Deep Freeze 1 task force’s mission was to establish a permanent base at the South Pole - one of the Earth’s most severe and ice-laden landscapes - and they needed to choose a timepiece that could withstand the conditions. Today we’re looking at the faithful modern recreation of the Antarctic. The 35mm case stays true to the original’s dimensions while retaining the robust construction, including anti-shock and anti-magnetic properties. Let’s take a closer look and see if the new Antarctic lives up to its vintag...
Hodinkee
The collaborative duo releases the final two episodes in this watch miniseries, and we asked Romaric André our most pressing questions as this willfully ironic collection becomes complete.
Hodinkee
A Geneva court ruled Yoko Ono is the owner of one of the world's most valuable watches, but that's only the beginning of a story of extortion, theft, and a watch that traveled around the world. Now that we know where it is, will we ever see it?
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