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Review: Tutima Patria Admiral Blue SS
An extension to the elegant Tutima Patria line, now in stainless steel with either a magnificent cold enamel blue or grey dial. We review the Admiral Blue.
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Deployant
An extension to the elegant Tutima Patria line, now in stainless steel with either a magnificent cold enamel blue or grey dial. We review the Admiral Blue.
Time+Tide
This week seems to be an appropriate one to ask what, as far as a product-focused watch news and review site goes, is a profoundly philosophical question: what is the Omega Speedmaster? Simple, non? Well, sort of. At the base level, the Speedmaster is Omega’s long-running family of professionally oriented chronographs. But it’s so much … ContinuedThe post What is the Omega Speedmaster? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Founded in 1992 as a university project, Bell & Ross was formed by two friends; Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo. These two young entrepreneurs had a joint vision of creating a watch that embodied the idea of combining functionality and robustness into one timepiece. When the manufacturing for Bell & Ross watches started, they had to get them made by a third-party manufacturer in Germany by who we know today as SINN. As the first models of Bell & Ross watches were released, they came with the inscription “by SINN” on the dial. SINN’s partnership with Bell & Ross lasted until 2002, when Bell & Ross were able to acquire their own manufacturing plant in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. After the acquisition of the manufacturing plant is when Bell & Ross wanted to expand their range of watch models and create a timepiece that carried their ideologies while keeping the aesthetics of the watch as simple as possible. To do this, they looked towards the military forces, diving commandos and air-forces to draw inspiration from. Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo knew that the military forces and their counterparts used instruments that have easy readability while having toughness to endure the rough situations. This was the inspiration behind the first model the BR – 01 and also the start of their most iconic BR Instrument range, released in 2005. This watch became one of the most recognisable timepieces in the the watch industry and gave the brand the international exposu...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: You know heritage has moved from ‘trend’ to ‘the new normal’ when Patek Philippe (that most conservative of Swiss mavens) release what is, essentially, a heritage re-release, back in 2017 … Heritage is here to stay. What started as a trend intended to appeal to the hardcore collectors has slipped into the mainstream, … ContinuedThe post The case, the dial, the Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With one watch unveiled each month since January, we are now more than halfway through the 10-piece Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” set. The latest addition, the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” was supposed to be launched in June, but instead made its debut this month to coincide with the opening of the brand’s Zurich boutique. First introduced in 2002, the Lange 1 Moon Phase is essentially the base Lange 1 with the clever incorporation of a moon phase in the sub-seconds. Subsequently, the second generation Lange 1 Moon Phase also evolved to feature a more advanced moon phase display. The new and improved Lange 1 Moon Phase was novel for the fact that its moonphase display also doubled up as a day and night indicator. Instead of a single disc with two fixed moons as is convention, the display relies on a rotating figure of 8, with each end forming one gold moon. The “8” is superimposed on an independently revolving blue disc that represents the sky. Half the disc is in a light blue, indicating day time and the second half is dark blue for the night sky, with laser-cut stars dotting it. The deconstructed display of the Lange 1 Moon Phase On the commemorative Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” however, the moons are in white gold keeping in line with the anniversary colours of silver and blue. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and blue printed numerals. Visible through the sapphire case back is the 25th Anniversary set’s ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: this watch is now available with a full ceramic bracelet. Read more here. The other day I was spending some time at my local Blancpain stockist, and I found my eyes consistently being drawn to the Bathyscaphe (which was only a little awkward as I was meant to be checking out Blancpain’s 2019 … ContinuedThe post The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In 2016, Cartier unveiled one of the most dramatic examples of an orbital regulator – the Astromysterieux – in which the entire movement was suspended in the oculus of the watch dial, mysteriously unencumbered by any visible support. The Astromysterieux sits in the same class of exotic regulators as the Ulysse Nardin Freak, Piaget Tourbillon Relatif, and Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital – and unsurprisingly, three of the four were conceived by the same watchmaker. Previously only available in palladium, the brand has now introduced a striking pink gold version with a black guilloche chapter ring. The dimensions of the watch remain unchanged – 43.5mm in diameter with a thickness of just 12mm, making it one of the thinnest, most elegant watches with such an unusual regulator. In the new pink gold version, the black guilloche chapter ring is paired with polished pink gold roman numerals and black Breguet-shaped hands, creating a remarkable contrast. But the true brilliance of the watch lies in the ingenious cal. 9462 MC, for which three patents were filed. The secret to the floating, mysterious movement is in the invisible gearing that is hidden behind the chapter ring. The movement is essentially baguette-shaped, with the minute hand fixed to the barrel bridge, and completes a full rotation on the dial in an hour. The central, carrousel tourbillon The basic idea of a tourbillon is to install the escapement in a mechanically driven platform in order to cr...
Time+Tide
OK, so on the surface this story is nice and simple. Philip McColl, a sailor who had his engraved Rolex Submariner (a commemoration of his 1988 World Championship win) stolen in 1998 returned to him by Christie’s auction house. Good news story, right? Well, the actual story is a little more complex. Turns out that Christie’s … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Christie’s return champion yachtsman’s stolen Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines rolled out a smaller version of its popular Legend Diver last year, one that is just 36mm in diameter and catered to ladies. Now it’s added a “tropical” dial model to the line-up, creating a dive watch for ladies with serious retro style. The first Legend Diver, which was made for men, was based on the twin-crown dive watches of the 1960s, specifically the refs. 7042, 7150 and 7594. The lower crown was for winding and setting, while the upper crown rotated the elapsed time bezel, a feature that has been reproduced in the modern day remake. Sometimes nicknamed “Super Compressor” after the type of water-resistant case made by case maker E. Piquerez (which also supplied other brands), the originals were notably large for watches of the era, measuring 42mm in diameter. The men’s Legend Diver is exactly the same size, but the mini Legend Diver is substantially smaller, just 36mm in diameter. Despite its reduced size, the Legend Diver 36mm manages to retain the look and proportions of its bigger brother. And with the new “tropical” dial, it also replicates the highly desirable discoloured dials of some vintage “Super Compressor” divers. The original watches all had glossy black dials, but exposure to sunlight over the decades caused some dials to fade, resulting in varied shades of brown. The new Legend Diver “tropical” replicates the aged dials found on some vintage examples, with a tobacco coloured centre that darkens towards the edges. T...
SJX Watches
Austrian watchmaker Habring² is well-regarded for its affordable, cleverly engineered watches, particularly the Doppel rattrapante. Now Habring² takes the Doppel a step further: the Perpetual Doppel combines the mono-pusher, split seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, while still keeping it affordable as such things go. Constructed atop its proprietary A11 movement (itself derived from the robust Valjoux 7750), the Perpetual Doppel is unusual in using a complications module not made by Habring², which typically designs its own complications. Instead, the watch uses the tried and tested perpetual calendar module produced by Dubois-Depraz, a complications specialist that also supplies the module to other makers of affordable perpetual calendars. This makes the Perpetual Doppel the most complicated serially produced Habring² watch, though the brand has produced one-off repeaters and tourbillons in the past. The Perpetual Doppel is generously sized at 43mm in diameter to spread out the calendar displays as much as possible to maximise legibility. But despite the added height of the perpetual calendar, the case manages to stay just 12mm high. Readability is also helped by the red gold-gilded hour numerals and red gold-plated hands that contrast with the brushed, silvered dial. And the chronograph has two central seconds hands for the split-seconds function, along with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock for elapsed minutes. The Habring² c...
Time+Tide
Wednesday night saw Time+Tide invite Jaeger-LeCoultre into our office, along with some of our most die-hard fans (you have to be a little die-hard to make it out on such a cold evening), for an evening of watch-related entertainment. There is no doubt that the guests of honour were a brace of brand new Master … ContinuedThe post EVENT: An evening with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin 2019 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There aren’t many words in this picture gallery of the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold, because, well, pictures speak louder than words in this case. To that end, we’ll let them do the talking again. Enjoy. We are. There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine … ContinuedThe post Behold, the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Seamaster Planet Ocean, with its bright orange details, is a favourite in the modern Omega lineup, a compelling combination of brightness and brown. And now we’ve been treated to a brand new version. First of all, this watch is large: 45.5mm across, and tall on the wrist. It’s also heavy thanks to the steel … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When this video, about holding Elvis Presley’s diamond-encrusted Omega in my hand, posted just now, the first commenter wrote “so excited“. This could be in relation to his own emotional state, or more likely it’s a comment about mine, as I beam, grin and awkwardly talk my way through yet another surreal moment that had … ContinuedThe post 3 watches that prove Elvis Presley was also the King of the unconventional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Does the SARB033 represent a side of Seiko that no longer exists? Let’s review what makes the SARB033 so special while speculating a bit on Seiko’s new pricing strategies.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Steel is all the rage these days, with premiums for coveted models exceeding that of the comparable gold version. This fact alone is a compelling argument for gold. But it can be tricky to know when and how to wear it. After all, you may not want to rock into the office with … ContinuedThe post When is it OK to wear a gold watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Reverso is, hands down, one of the all-time classic watch designs. And now, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold is double the fun with twice the dials … Believe it or not, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the original sports watches. The oft-quoted origin story about this iconic rectangle is … ContinuedThe post Two faces, both awesome. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watch lovers don’t need to be told that great things take time. And that’s certainly been the case leading up to this moment. As readers of our NOW magazine know, last year we had a little dalliance with the brand that used to inhabit our HQ space, and now lives next door. Royal Enfield. Basically, … ContinuedThe post We are giving away a Royal Enfield Stealth Black Time+Tide Special Edition Motorcycle, enter on Monday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: I don’t know about you, but when I think of everyday watches, I default to round steel sports pieces. Of course, there might be some internalised bias going on here. Because you know what, the Cartier Santos - recently given an all new and improved makeover - is actually a really strong contender for 24/7 duty. … ContinuedThe post 4 reasons why the Cartier Santos makes a great everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: One of the biggest takeaways from John Mayer’s Daytona-fest that was his Talking Watches Part 2 was the fact that the dude managed to blow up 2016’s yellow gold and green-dialled Daytona overnight. If you can get it now, get it. Here’s our original review (and Jason’s stunning pics) of this yellow gold … ContinuedThe post John Mayer just made this green and gold Daytona the next hype-piece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Usually in this sort of video I try to honour the rules. Because you never know, maybe you actually are in the market for a brand new watch somewhere between 10 and 35K. Odd, but not impossible. And if that’s the case, I don’t want to harsh your vibe by sneaking something in that’s out … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Ceramic, tattoos and a sneaky Patek – Felix’s Basel 2019 picks from $10,000 – $35,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I’m not sure if Lou Reed would have liked this watch (I hope he would have), but I know I certainly do. The modern sports line that is the Defy is an increasing priority for Zenith – a key, future-facing pillar for the brand that is both distinctive and incredibly versatile. This new version, all 41mm … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: White heat – the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We are at the Grand Madison with Patek Philippe. Kicking off with the 5235/50 R-001 regulator dial retail at S$68,300 in rose gold. 40.5mm, 10mm height. Day, date and moon. Ref 5905 Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar first launched in 2015 in plat, and now in RG. S$86,600. Next is the 5172 Chronograph. Handwound WGRead More
Time+Tide
The ongoing creative collaboration between Hublot and Ferrari is now in its seventh year, and it doesn’t look like it’s running out of gas any time soon, if the latest offering is any indication. We’re talking about the Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold. The defining feature of this edition of 250 watches is the sporty … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The harder, faster, stronger Hublot Big Bang Ferrari in Magic Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Visiting the team at H. Moser & Cie. is always one of the highlights of SIHH. You never quite know what you’re going to get. Well, that’s not quite true. You know you’re going to be in for some surprises. And seeing Moser at SIHH 2019 did not disappoint. We knew about the Nature Watch, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The hottest Moser watch releases of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Bremont is a brand built, to no small degree, around meaningful collaborations - particularly those in the aerospace sector. And of these relationships there’s one that holds pride of place and speaks to the heart of the British brand – Martin-Baker. Martin-Baker has, since 1946, been one of the most important suppliers of ejection seats … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont MBIII 10th Anniversary limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Magic Gold, ceramic, sapphire. We all know that Hublot loves toying with case materials, and their latest comes as yet another clever spin on case materials - the first ever watch cased in yellow sapphire. Hublot wasn’t the first to get into the art of crafting sapphire watch cases, however they have been the first … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire – the not so mellow yellow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Cartier had a big showing at SIHH 2019, fielding no less than 75 new references which included fetching re-workings of brand staples such as the Baignoire and the Santos.
Deployant
This is a repost of our Live from SIHH coverage. First published on Jan 15, 2019, 10:50 PM SGT. The original post was lost in the system crash which caused a corruption of the server database. Now at Grönefeld’s and we get our hands-on with the new Principia automatic. Available in SS, WG and RedRead More
Time+Tide
When Hublot announced its partnership with French contemporary artist Richard Orlinski back in 2017, I guess you could say I was intrigued. Until then, I hadn’t heard of Orlinski or his Pop Art-style beasts. But after seeing his brightly coloured “Wild Kong” gorilla sculpture, with its multiple diamond-like facets, I knew that a Hublot and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Green Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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