Two Broke Watch Snobs
Exploring the History and Durability of the Marathon TSAR
A quick review of the the Marathon TSAR dive watch. This is a truly mil-spec piece that sees real service across the world today.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
A quick review of the the Marathon TSAR dive watch. This is a truly mil-spec piece that sees real service across the world today.
Time+Tide
Everyone was expecting Rolex to finally show some love to the Cellini line which, although by no means weak, just lost appeal as time went on. Not many expected the crown to show up to Watches & Wonders 2023 with a brand new collection however, which the Perpetual 1908 is the founding member of. As … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last week the 11th Hour Racing Team, whom watch manufacturer Ulysse Nardin have partnered with, became the first-ever US team to win the legendary Ocean Race in its 50-year history. A seven-leg race, across nine international cities, and over a span of six months, is an incredibly challenging journey before one team can take home … ContinuedThe post Ulysee Nardin x 11th Hour Racing become the first US team to win the legendary Ocean Race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It almost seems that no matter the brand, a dive watch always feels somewhat humble. Even with lavish decoration, extra complications and precious materials, the utilitarian nature of their purpose shines through. The Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date is a dive watch of the rarest breed - one that retains a level of refinery and … ContinuedThe post Spending time with the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date, a Teutonic take on a diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
This time we head to Lancaster to discover the history of Hamilton, the railroads, and more.
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Time+Tide
The ‘60s were an important era for Seiko, as it saw the introduction of both the Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines. Originally launched to promote healthy inter-company competition with Grand Seiko, the King Seiko name made its debut in 1961, and in 1965, the iconic KSK model was released. The luxe-leaning Grand Seiko of … ContinuedThe post The slender new King Seiko collection channels the retro elegance of the 1965 original appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: This 3 watch collection for $5,000 is brought to us by Chris Antzoulis, who you may know on Instagram as @PoppingCrowns, who gives us a well reasoned, and well diversified trio of watches that aren’t short on personality. We love the mix of tones and colors, as well as the subtle details that remain to be discovered. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. What was the most embarrassing phase of your life? Think about it…but, I’ll go first. I was (and still am on the inside) an emo kid. I listened to Yellowcard and Saves the Day, played in a band called Autumn’s Disaster (a disaster indeed), wore all black all the time and applied my mom’s eyeliner before playing shows. I wanted to highlight the heartbreak. Adult Chris has gained some perspective. In order to see color we have to embody it in a purposeful way. I view watches as an extension of my personality, and an intentional piece of an outfit’s design (my favorite piece). I’m no outdoorsman. My dive watches are lucky to see a pool, field watches would be perplexed by a hike up a mountain, and if you tell me you use your chronograph for more than just timing things in the kitchen for funsies, then I dub you a liar and a scoundrel! I don’t NEED tools; I am capable of being enough of one on my own, to then also have to wear one on the wrist. Joke’s aside, my choices for a three-watch collection under $5000 are...
SJX Watches
Cartier has returned to its most iconic, yet most elusive, design with the Crash London New Bond Street Exclusive. The new launch mirrors the Crash release of 2019 by keeping it exclusive to the New Bond Street boutique in London, only this time the case is in platinum. Initial thoughts A new Cartier Crash is always worth taking note of, especially when its design pays close attention to the original of 1967. While the brand has been noted for diligently recreating the looks from its past, none of them come close in terms of excitement among collectors than the Crash. Following up the yellow gold version of four years ago with this platinum model was a smart move by the brand, and has put clear thought into how to execute it. Notably, the vintage “London” Crash was never available in platinum so this is not so much a remake as a reinterpretation of history – one but executed very well. From the form of the case to the layout of the dial and hands, Cartier has done their utmost to respect what Jean-Jacques Cartier and Rupert Emerson had first imagined and besides a perhaps slightly questionable placement of “Swiss made”, they appear to have done a fantastic job. Not only has the dial design been slightly modified, but the brand has also updated the movement to use the cal. 1917 MC, perhaps an upgrade in terms of it being in house, though the construction of the cal. 1917 MC is not as sophisticated as the Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces. Cartier has price...
Worn & Wound
Following the continued success of the second generation Oceanking, St. Louis-based brand Monta just released their third iteration of the dive-inspired watch. Making intuitive tweaks to the design, the third generation of the Oceanking shows the capabilities of Monta and that there’s always room for improvement. The first thing to notice about the new-and-improved Oceanking is the bezel. With a focus on tactility and functionality, the new bezel features a ceramic insert that’s easier to read due to upgraded indices, typeface, and a lume pip at the 12 o’clock mark. Second to that is the 120-click action of the bezel assembly, which is suspended on three ball-pushers. The configuration of this assembly is totally unique to Monta and is currently patent-pending, making it an innovative feather in the microbrand’s cap. Much of the design principles of previous Oceankings have stuck around, with small tweaks to make it all the more refined for new customers and longtime fans of the brand. The dial has refreshed lume, a larger date aperture, and new text orientation. It’s small adjustments like these that make me confident that Monta is paying attention to every single detail and working closely with their Swiss manufacturing partners to bring us something special. Beyond the visual tweaks, one can expect even more adjustments made at the technical level as well. While the case clocks in at 40.7mm (same as Gen. 2), it is 0.2mm thinner than the previous generation. Th...
Worn & Wound
Do you enjoy medium sized integrated bracelet sports watches? How about classic American cocktails? Are visual puns a thing you’d like to see more of when you check the time? Well, boy do we have a watch for you. Maen is the latest brand to collaborate with seconde/seconde/, Romaric André’s whimsical, joke filled, and increasingly popular design house that manages to find unexpected angles and humor in all kinds of watches. The platform he’s playing with here is Maen’s excellent Manhattan 37, the highly architectural, 70s inspired integrated bracelet sports watch measuring, you guessed it, 37mm across. For this limited edition, seconde/seconde/ is taking inspiration from the classic Manhattan cocktail, finding space for include his signature wit in unlikely places. Let’s start with the obvious: the dial is meant to evoke the color of a Manhattan, traditionally made with rye whiskey and red vermouth, it has a distinctive red hue. The Manhattan 37 already has a very cool execution that features a Geneva stripe finish, so adding a fun color here is a must, and the finishing technique causes a natural shift in the tone – Maen says it will range from a deep burgundy to purple depending on the lighting. The second hand features a pixelated representation of a Maraschino cherry, the Manhattan’s traditional garnish in André’s signature style, and as a final touch, you’ll see a “% vol” designation next to the “37” within the watch’s standard dial tex...
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Time+Tide
The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ is a 50-piece limited edition It comes with a robust bead-blasted titanium case, frosted black dial, orange accents, 60-hour COSC-certified movement This second edition succeeds their initial 2021 collaboration These days, most brands specialise in a specific segment of watches. Some skew towards strictly … ContinuedThe post Chopard team up with BWD for the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the incredible collaboration between Revolution and The Rake, presenting the exclusive limited edition Bell & Ross and Alessandro Palazzi timepiece. This remarkable creation celebrates the legendary barman Alessandro Palazzi from the esteemed Duke’s bar, who joined forces with Bell & Ross co-founder Carlos Rosillo to design the ultimate watch for martini enthusiasts. Encased within a […]
Worn & Wound
Only Watch, the biennial charity auction that finds an increasingly diverse set of brands offering one-off watches to the highest bidder, is back this year, and we’re starting to get word of the sale’s participants and the watches they’ll have on offer. You might recall that in 2021, we saw Baltic participate for the first time, which, in our opinion, not only elevated their status considerably, but the entire microbrand scene as well. For those of us who have followed and supported small, enthusiast driven brands for years, there was a certain amount of gratification in seeing one of our favorites getting worldwide, mainstream attention alongside the likes of Tudor and Patek Philippe. It was even better when we saw that Only Watch didn’t fundamentally change what Baltic stands for as a brand – they still make reasonably priced and attractive watches for hardcore collector and enthusiast types. This year’s slate of Only Watch participants features another small brand that we’ve been paying very close attention to since they first came on the scene just two years ago. Furlan Marri’s Only Watch debut caps what can only be described as a meteoric rise for the brand, and the somewhat mind blowing watch they’ve unveiled is genuinely unexpected and exciting. Before we get into the weeds on the new Furlan Marri perpetual calendar – yes, their perpetual calendar – let’s back up a minute, because it’s important to understand the short history of the bran...
Worn & Wound
Ten years ago, my wife and her sisters planned a trip to Paris for her mom’s 60th birthday. To prepare for that trip she signed up for French lessons with a couple from the Western Alps temporarily living in the States. We became fast friends. Finally, 10 years later, it was my turn to head not only to the City of Lights, but this time, to visit our friends in the mountains of France as well. Earlier this year, I was catching up with my friends Gabriel Vachette and Jérôme Burgert, the co-founders of Serica Watches, based in Paris. Serica is a relatively new watch brand, but they’ve managed to quickly establish themselves as an enthusiast favorite by creating clean, badgeless, modern watches that nod to vintage references, yet they also have a design language that’s all their own. I, of course, let them know of my pending visit to Paris and the roadtrip that would follow. I was thrilled to learn they’d be opening a new boutique right around the time when I’d be in town. The wheels instantly started cranking. I felt it’d make for a fun edition of Tool/Kit and they quickly agreed to lend me a model that I could pick up at the boutique toward the beginning of our excursion. I knew that they’d just released a CSOC version of their popular 5303 diver, so I naturally assumed that’s what they’d want to feature. But Gabriel, insightfully suggested, “You are traveling, you need a traveler’s watch.” He picked up their 8315 GMT Chronometer released at the Wi...
SJX Watches
Having signed on as a sponsor of America’s Cup contender Alinghi last year, Tudor now reveals a pair of watches created especially for the sailing team. The Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” both feature a carbon composite case – a first for Tudor – along with the functional design derived from the military-issue FXD dive watch. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor – its products are amongst the best value propositions across the entire industry – but its offerings have historically been limited in terms of design. In recent years the brand has gotten bolder in both styling and materials – the new pair demonstrate this. And if anything, they are probably the first of many more adventurous products from Tudor, something that is a natural evolution of the brand given the capacity of its big new manufacture. Although both stick to the design established by the original Pelagos FXD, they make it more interesting in terms of colour and a lot more interesting in terms of materials with the carbon composite case. The use of the lightweight composite will give both of them a featherweight presence on the wrist, despite the large case diameters of each. Despite the novelty in terms of materials, the new Pelagos FXD models remain squarely in Tudor’s favourite price segment. The time-only FXD costs a bit under US$3,700 while the chronograph is a little over US$5,000, making both strong value p...
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Revolution
In the maiden episode of our new series - The Collector’s Perspective, Constant sits down with Nop Srinara to share a conversation centred around their shared passion for watch collecting. Besides starting his micro brand, Vilhelm Watches, Nop is also the founder of The Octo Club, an appreciation club for the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo. The […]
Worn & Wound
When it came time to shoot the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition, we decided, quickly, to turn to Farer’s own ambassador, Amy Heynes (née Shore) for lifestyle photography. An incredibly talented and stylized photographer, her specialty is in the automotive industry. In fact, she co-owns Willam Heynes Cars with her husband (William Heynes, also the model in the shoot), which specializes in Jaguar preservation and restoration. When it came time to shoot the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition, we decided, quickly, to turn to Farer’s own ambassador, Amy Heynes (née Shore) for lifestyle photography. An incredibly talented and stylized photographer, her specialty is in the automotive industry. In fact, she co-owns Willam Heynes Cars with her husband (William Heynes, also the model in the shoot), which specializes in Jaguar preservation and restoration. The post Working With Photographer Amy Shore on the Launch of the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Continuing from the unique piece made for the previous edition of Only Watch, TAG Heuer again experiments with its racing model for the upcoming charity auction. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch is the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, and channels strong avant-garde styling. Initial thoughts Finally adding a mechanical split second chronograph to the brand’s capabilities is a significant step for a TAG Heuer, who stand on their history of producing sporting chronographs. In contrast to the Monaco Carbon from 2021, the watch exhibits a significantly bolder aesthetic, aligning more closely with what one would expect from Richard Mille. However, unlike its counterpart, TAG Heuer’s approach to skeletonisation is tastefully restrained, focusing on a minimalist display rather than an overtly flashy appearance. One potential drawback of this release is the auction estimate, which ranges from CHF150,000 to CHF300,000. The inclusion of the new calibre and the utilisation of premium materials can justify the higher price. However, it is worth noting that the price point is consistent with what last year’s model achieved, which was CHF290,000, despite only having an estimate of between CHF50,000 to CHF100,000. The winning bidder of this watch will also get a VIP experience of the Monaco Grand Prix next year, with access to the TAG Heuer hospitality suite, among other experiences over the weekend. Avant-garde design Expertly mergi...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white. The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates. The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver. According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps. The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline. The rotor is 22k gold but ...
SJX Watches
One of the most anticipated creations by an independent watchmaker at Only Watch 2023 is the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. Almost certainly amongst the most valuable watches in the sale, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch in stainless steel containing a Faraday cage to protect the against magnetism. It is the third timepiece created by Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia, for the biennial charity auction. Though the specifics of the watch remain under wraps, a few facts have been revealed in the announcement. The dial will be “sector” or “scientific” style, while the case is stainless steel and made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Classically proportioned in the typical Rexhep Rexhepi style, the case measures 38 mm by 9.95 mm. Interestingly, the case features a double back comprised of an inner sapphire back and an outer back that can be unscrewed by the wearer. And most importantly, the movement is a new construction. While the Chronomètre Contemporain I and Chronomètre Contemporain II that Rexhep Rexhepi created for past instalments of Only Watch were variants of standard models, the RRCA is equipped with a calibre developed from the ground up for the model. The RRCCII calibre inside the timepiece made for Only Watch 2021 While I can’t say any more about the watch, I can state that the RRCA deftly combines historical inspiration drawn from the magnetism-resistant watches made by the great watchmakers of Gen...
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Time+Tide
“We’re very lucky,” IWC CEO Chris-Grainger Herr modestly admits, when it comes to the brand’s stable of ambassadors and friends of the brand. The Schaffhausen brand has enjoyed a long relationship with two legendary sportsmen in the form of Lewis Hamilton and, until recently, Tom Brady. What’s interesting though, is how IWC now seem to … ContinuedThe post Sam Kerr joins IWC to continue the brand’s tradition of sporting greats appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With more and more microbrands on the rise, the idea of creating your own brand is something that’s become easier to stomach, whether through a melange of ready-made parts or a single factory custom-making an entire design. The path that Dilon Wong, the founder of Mancheront, took to get there, was pretty much the polar … ContinuedThe post I checked out the quirky Mancheront Pacer and its unique features appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our Editors do explore the California coast with a Grand Seiko, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and navigate the crevasses of a desert canyon with a Vero. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” With summer officially on our doorstep, the opportunities for adventure, relaxation or any way you want to spend the longest days of the year are endless. You can take advantage of the earlier sunrise to get in a longer dawn patrol session before work, or go for a leisurely hike after office hours with still a ton of daylight to spare. If you’re the less adventurous type, then that’s cool too. Head out to your local beach and dig into that book that you’ve been meaning to read, or just lay out and check back into reality whenever you deem it fit. If your local surroundings aren’t stimulating enough, then put those vacation days to work. That’s what they’re there for, right? Boo...
Hodinkee
It's Summer Blue for the Aqua Terra, too.
Hodinkee
Featuring over 50 timepieces capturing the scope and genius of some of history's most prominent watchmakers.
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