Revolution
Naturally Eternal: The Watchmaking of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels’ intricate new collection of technical timepieces draw inspiration from the life and whimsy of nature.
Results for The 1990 Lange Revival
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Revolution
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121
Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit Monopusher Column Wheel Chronograph: Signaling A New Design Era For The Brand
The Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit chronograph is an aesthetic and mechanical update to the classic Memoris chronograph that may end up being the most sought-after model yet. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at how it arrived here.
Time+Tide
MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders
We’re a couple of weeks removed from Watches and Wonders and I’ve had enough time to recover from all the spicy salami and new watch releases. I’ve thought about the 100+ watches that I spent a few minutes with, in the hope of identifying those that left a lasting impression. And truly, there were some … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ed Sheeran shows hardcore watch collectors are also on the MoonSwatch hype train
The raging hype over the MoonSwatch has provoked a maelstrom of opinions. Some people believe it’s a bold collaboration that has reinvigorated the appeal of both Swatch and Omega. Others dismiss the MoonSwatch as little more than a marketing stunt that cheapens Omega’s iconic Speedmaster and even risks diminishing its long-term appeal. As the discussion … ContinuedThe post Ed Sheeran shows hardcore watch collectors are also on the MoonSwatch hype train appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Affordable True GMTs From The Swatch Group - Under $500 - $1500 - Swiss Automatic Traveler GMTs
Quill & Pad
Results Of The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022
Here Elizabeth Doerr brings you the results of Ineichen's Precious Blues auction on April 23, 2022, including eight less mainstream picks.
SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel”
A brand that went defunct during the Quartz Crisis like many of its peers, Nivada Grenchen was resurrected in 2020, again like many of its peers. While the historical brand was perhaps best known as one of the earliest makers of the automatic wristwatch, Nivada Grenchen now offers affordable, vintage-inspired watches that seem straight out of its old catalogue. The brand’s signature product is a 38 mm hand-wind chronograph modelled on a 1960s original, which now gets an Eastern Arabic makeover with the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Limited Edition Set. Made for the eponymous Dubai watch store, the watch is packaged in a box that includes a leather watch case and Chronomaster Only, a reference book detailing the history of Nivada. Initial thoughts If you like vintage-style chronographs, Chronomaster is an appealing proposition in its original form, thanks to the restrained case size that’s identical to the vintage original. And the Sellita movement inside means the Chonomaster is an affordable entry into the world of retro, hand-wind chronographs, which is admittedly crowded with many, many comparable options. But this version is slightly different. Typical of Perpétuel editions – and reflecting the store’s regional focus – the Chronomaster gets Eastern Arabic numerals for he dial and bezel. Though such numerals have become relatively common and predictable on Middle East editions, this is noteworthy for two reasons. One is the fact that all the numerals on ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater
Hublot is all about material innovation and each year they continue to step it up. This Watches & Wonders, for example, they expanded their sapphire portfolio by adding the colour purple. But while it seems Hublot can bring something new each release cycle with ease, each effort is, of course, the fruit of extensive labour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price
The popularity of microbrands is predominantly down to two main reasons. Firstly, there is the fact that they’re often far more affordable than established watch brands, but of equal importance is their relative freedom to create fresh ideas without the pressure that a century-long history brings. Instead of re-hashing old designs with slight updates every … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders
A couple of years ago, when I first started @timepeacelove, my Instagram page dedicated to my passion for watches, I made a joke to my wife saying, “Hey, maybe one day I’ll get the chance to experience Watches and Wonders in Geneva.” I would have never thought that day would come, but my experience last month … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Hands On: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10592
Time+Tide
The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild
If you were ever wondering what started the stainless-steel sports watch craze we find ourselves in today, none of it would have been possible without one particular watch – which recently celebrated its 50th Birthday. On April 15th, 1972, Audemars Piguet, Georges Golay, and Gérald Genta would forever change the luxury sports watch segment – … ContinuedThe post The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Time To Repeat The Threepeat: It's The Return Of 3 on 3!
This weekend is all about the power of three.
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads: The dizzying effect of Watches and Wonders 2022
American graphic designer Chip Kidd once said, “You can be crippled by too many choices, especially if you don’t know what your goals are.” The truth behind this quote didn’t quite hit me until Watches and Wonders 2022. And it starts the moment you walk into the Palexpo, its vast halls devouring sound like a … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: The dizzying effect of Watches and Wonders 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Soul Of A Watch: A Contemplation With Beautiful Imagery – Reprise
Why watches? Ask what makes a watch enthusiast tick and the idea of the “soul” of a watch might well feature in the response – the idea that something elevates the watch from a cold object of engineering to something of greater import. Here Ryan Schmidt tracks "soul" down and gets contemplative on its nature along with some very special imagery.
Time+Tide
The Rolex Explorer could be your one watch collection for life
Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the Rolex … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer could be your one watch collection for life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The Seiko SPB217J is an unsung hero of modern-day Seiko
Quill & Pad
Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking
If you attended Watches and Wonders 2022, you may have noticed the large exhibition called Time Design right near the entrance, which was organized by the cultural arm of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. If you missed the Time Design exhibition at the fair, you may now see it until May 8, 2022 in the FHH’s space at Pont de la Machine right in the center of Geneva. It is free and open to the public.
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic
Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Hands-on with all 11 missions of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch
To say that the announcement of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch BioCeramic was the debut of the year would be an understatement. In fact, you could even argue it was the drop of the last decade. Waitlists and queues for watches are by no means a foreign concept to collectors, but this idea is typically … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hands-on with all 11 missions of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Black Dial Tank Louis Cartier Isn't A Must – But It's Still A MUST
Minimalism and yellow gold are quite the pairing.
Hodinkee
What Should We Call The Seiko SPB153?
It’s not ‘The New Willard.’ It’s something totally different.
Video
Introducing The Zenith El Primero CHRONOMASTER ORIGINAL - With the El Primero 3600 - A386 Reissue
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding
In Vacheron Constantin’s own words, the Patrimony is “circular perfection”, serving as a minimalist, modern interpretation of its elegant models of the 1950s. The four new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding models introduced today re-establish this well-known collection. With a redesigned case and crown, they distinguish themselves from their Holy Trinity competitors by offering a bit … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the Extraordinary Lucomorye Clock
While better known for his ingenious and quirky wristwatches, Konstantin Chaykin’s roots are in clockmaking, large, complicated, and ornate clocks to be exact. Six years in the making, his latest timekeeper is the Lucomorye Clock, a testament to the Russian watchmaker’s aesthetic vision and mechanic prowess. Lavishly decorated with gemstones and precious materials by renowned Russian jeweller, Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, the Lucomorye Clock has a fairytale exterior. But perhaps more significant are the fascinating mechanics centred on a remarkable way of displaying the hours – a chain wraps around a drum to display to form of Roman numerals that change with the time. The simplicity of the chain belies the mechanical complexity within, which is naturally patented. Initial Thoughts Mr Chaykin’s rise to fame internationally started with the Joker, a whimsical wristwatch with an amusing “rolling eye” display. But though the Joker and its successors remain Mr Chaykin’s bestsellers, they are not the best representation of his creative and mechanical genius. His talents are illustrated best with clocks, which have no limitations in terms of size, allowing for intricate complications impossible on a small scale. Amongst his most notable clocks is the series of Easter-themed clocks that he released annually starting in 2005, each with a complication to indicate the date of Orthodox Easter – an unconventional and rare complication due to the complexity of calculations req...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic
Nivada Grenchen are one of those brands that make you wish you’d heard of them years before you first saw them due to their knack of delivering some of the most perfect executions of vintage reissues that can be found in the Swiss watch industry today. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic takes … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction
A core component of being an auction house is curation, often under the scope of a particular theme. But, even with a theme in mind, we often see an abundance of the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Swiss auction house Ineichen, however, loves to work outside the norm. Sure, they … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: I Want The All-New F.P. Journe Vagabondage To Lock Me Up And Throw Away The Key
The indie superstar's 2022 hero piece highlights the influence of early 2000s watchmaking.
Video