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Monochrome
Montblanc, the renowned producer of luxury fountain pens since 1906, entered the watchmaking arena in 1997. Keen to enhance its horological credentials, Montblanc acquired the famous Minerva manufacture in 2006. While the brand’s vintage-inspired 1858 line takes inspiration from Minerva’s historical watches and is named after the year the fabled manufacture was founded, it would […]
Time+Tide
Dimepiece, Foundwell and Timex are back with a new collaboration that remixes the Intrepid 1995 reissue in a new 36mm size.The post The new Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece Edition is a 36mm remix of their 1995 reissue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Seems it wasn’t that long ago (in reality, it was close to a year ago) that I wrote my first “Objects of Desire” article about the watches of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, finishing with: given the prices of their watches I was unlikely to be able to buy any of the ones I truly lusted after anytime soon. My observation at the time was “go big or go home." As you will see, I've ended up going big and am now the proud owner of a Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1.
Monochrome
The symbiotic relationship between mechanical watches and motorsports shows no signs of waning. When Girard-Perregaux was in the hands of Italian CEO Luigi Macaluso, a former rally driver, the brand forged a partnership with Ferrari in 1994, lasting ten years. In 2021, with Patrick Pruniaux at the helm, Girard-Perregaux became the official watch partner of […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches with mechaquartz movements are a small but quietly growing niche within the industry, particularly in the ambitious, creative, and extremely budget-conscious world of small independent watchmaking. Watchmakers have discovered that these “hybrid” movements, which offer quartz-level accuracy along with a dose of mechanical appeal, can often provide the opportunity to make chronograph watches that entice watch enthusiasts while still maintaining the affordable price points that keep their brands competitive. But what is a mechaquartz movement, exactly, and what watch brands are currently offering the most interesting examples of this technology? Read on. What is a MechaQuartz Movement? In a nutshell, mechaquartz (which various brands and other sources have also spelled mecaquartz, meca-quartz, or mecha-quartz) refers to a chronograph movement that combines a battery-powered quartz crystal oscillator for the main timekeeping (i.e., the hours, minutes, and running seconds) with a mechanical module for the stopwatch functions. The latter element ensures that the chronograph seconds hand sweeps smoothly over the dial, as in a fully automatic watch, rather than in short jumps, as it would operate in a fully quartz one, and that the seconds hand will snap back instantly to zero at the end of a time measurement. A mecaquartz movement is often referred to as a hybrid movement, but it’s not a hybrid in the same technical sense as, say, Seiko’s Spring Drive calibers, ...
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Worn & Wound
A few months ago when Seiko unveiled their Jaws watch, I didn’t really think much of it. Jaws is one of the most popular movies ever made, and it’s celebrating a big anniversary this year. In a world where watch brands collaborate with all kinds of silly entities for all kinds of silly reasons, it seemed like a pretty normal release. Then, just in the last week, Seiko announced a trio of watches bearing the Datsun name. OK, a Japanese car – a cult classic car at that – doesn’t require a whole lot of mental gymnastics to figure out. But then yesterday, when I opened Instagram over my morning coffee and saw the new Seiko “Pepsi” watches, reader I have to admit: it broke my brain a little. At first I thought it must be a prank or a joke. Maybe Seiko’s account got hacked and one of these new AI engines built an entire marketing campaign around the most on-the-nose “collaboration” yet? But no, a little digging revealed that the two new Seiko 5 Sports watches with blue and red Pepsi bezels were indeed an endeavor bearing the name of the number 2 cola in the country. We’ve been referring to bezels in this colorway as “Pepsi” bezels for longer than I’ve been involved in the watch industry, as a hobbyist and certainly as a professional. It certainly never occurred to me that one day the beverage company would sign on as what amounts to an official partner with a watch brand. But it’s a testament to the ultra-corporatized watch world we’re all livin...
Time+Tide
What happens when you add a WWI naval camouflage to a tool watch and throw in a pinch of radioactive gas for good measure?The post Oracle Time teams up with Ball with dazzling results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Dutch watch enthusiast, collector and entrepreneur Diederik van Golen is back at it again, reviving a fun historical piece of watchmaking with his newly founded brand, Volan Watches. Inspired by his love for cars, yachting and watches, the goal is to bring back the Keyring Watch, an item that was very popular in the 1950s […]
Fratello
Every once in a while, a big box with Seiko watches arrives at the Fratello office. It contains the brand’s releases for the upcoming months and allows us to review and photograph them ahead of time. I still remember when I discovered the Seiko SPB317 in there, back in 2022. I immediately fell in love […] Visit From Homage to Heritage: Why I Traded My Seiko SPB317 for the 6105-8000 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I recently read Zach’s article on “Micro Indies,” in which he explains how small independent brands are challenging the bigger watch companies in terms of design and innovation, and yet offering watches in the $3,000 – $5,000 price range. This made me think about another category of brand that does not fall squarely into the “Micro Indies” bucket, but is a level above in terms of watchmaking and challenges the higher-end independent brands. I could not clearly decide on how to label this category – it is not accurate to call them “affordable independents” since they are not that affordable, therefore I landed on referring to them as “mid-level independents” or MLI for short. How do I define the MLI category? These are brands that fall in the $5,000 – $15,000 price range and offer a combination of various aspects of high horology – from in-house movements, dials, and finishing, to complications often seen in the higher spectrum of independents. Even though I selected this price range where the majority of the watches fall, there are outliers based on precious metals and complications, that can go well over $15,000, and sometimes into the six figures. I selected three very different brands to highlight in this category since their specialties cover different aspects of watchmaking: D. Dornblüth & Sohn, Laine, and Sartory-Billard. I will go into details on how each of these brands has their own niche in watchmaking, and how their strategy differs ...
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Longines Legend Diver is one of the brand’s most popular and lauded vintage-inspired watches due to its distinct style and tremendous value for money. The original Legend Diver that serves as the template for the contemporary iterations is the Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042 that was launched back in 1959. In 2007, Longines debuted the Heritage Revival, which was a faithful reissue that was followed up with a date-window version in 2009. Fast forward to 2017 and Longines began to expand this collection to include options like a Milanese bracelet as well as a 36mm iteration to join the existing 42mm model. Then in 2023, we saw the Longines Legend Diver debut in a 39mm wide case that serves as the template for the white-dial iteration I review here. Of course, this is a truncated version of the Longines Legend Diver story, and you can read the full version by our resident historian Mark Bernardo here. There are currently eight dial-color variations in the Longines Legend Diver family: beige, black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, and white, which is the most recent and the one I am going to get into here. If I had to pick a favorite, it might actually be the orange, which is more of a muted terra cotta that looks just excellent. That said, the white-dial model introduced earlier this year is a sleeper diver that stays with you long after you first see it. It’s not too difficult to nail a watch when you’ve mastered dial color techniques the way Longines has, but ...
Worn & Wound
We’re several years deep into the era of collaborative, limited edition watch releases, and while a lot of the hype has subsided around some of these drops, there’s no sign that the overall strategy is shifting anytime soon. Brands both large and small are still keen to slap partner logos on dials and casebacks, and draw parallels between watches and, well, you name it. Obviously, the automotive world is ripe for these collaborations, and is the window through which a trio of new Seikos come into our lives. Three limited edition references made in partnership with Datsun are the headline here, but in a smart move, Seiko is simultaneously announcing corresponding regular production models that riff on the same themes without all the branding. So there’s something here for the Datsun enthusiast (of which we know there are many) as well as those that are more inclined to shun this type of commercial cross-polination and just want their watch to be a watch and not an exercise in remembering a very specific link to a carmaker’s history. The premise for all these watches (or rather, for the limited editions) is Seiko’s relationship with Datsun, which dates back to the early 1970s when Seiko supported the 240Z in races across the world. Most notably, Seiko was a sponsor of the #11 car that won the East-African Safari Rally, a 6,200 kilometer race that is generally regarded as one of the most challenging on the international circuit. All of the watches discussed here...
Monochrome
Yema, the French brand based in Morteau, is famous for its robust and reliable tool watches designed for all terrains. Yema produced its first military-issue watches in 1970, and in 2020, the French Air Force and French Navy nominated it as an official partner. The latest collaboration watch is the Flygraf CPA10, inspired by the […]
Fratello
In the nearly 15 years since I began collecting watches in earnest, the watch industry has experienced significant growth. The last couple of years, however, have been a challenge. Inflation, geopolitical events, and other headwinds have now emerged. This has resulted in a tough market and high retail prices. So, what should brands do to […] Visit Fratello On Air: How The Watch Industry Can Reignite The Passions Of Collectors to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In the world of independent watchmaking, Phimphrachanh – pronounced “fin-fra-chan” – is a name worth learning. Born in France, Dann Phimphrachanh is a Portuguese citizen with Laotian heritage who produces watches in Switzerland. That multicultural heritage that informs his approach to horology, personified by the Seconde Vive, his first wristwatch. The Phimphrachanh surname, inherited from his Laotian grandfather, a political figure in Laos, speaks to this lineage, but Dann’s professional and personal identity is firmly rooted in Portugal. After training in Lisbon’s watchmaking school and working at traditional Swiss watch brands, Dann set out to build his first watch on his own terms: by hand, with minimal industrial tools, and a commitment to preserving classical methods in a modern context. In a world where “independent watchmaking” can sometimes feel like just another label, Dann reminds us what it really means. The Seconde Vive, the result of years of solitary work, is both a technical achievement and a reflection of a deeper pursuit, a journey shaped by tradition, silence, and the slow mastery of time itself. The Seconde Vive Origins When Dann first left for Switzerland, he carried with him an image shaped by the glossy pages of watchmaking magazines, a world where the watchmaker was portrayed as a solitary figure, pursuing perfection in a quiet, idyllic workshop. “It was that image I went looking for,” he recalls. Reality, of course, was more co...
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Fratello
The mighty Rolex Datejust turns 80 this year. That makes it one of the longest continually produced watches out there, which is no small feat. At Fratello, we intend to celebrate with a series of articles on the model, and today it’s my turn to choose my all-time favorite. That’s not an easy task, though. […] Visit My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As my thirties pass by and more gray hairs emerge, I can’t help but notice the unironic fondness I’ve been feeling for two-tone watches. Much like my inability to understand the slang my kids use, feeling that the rizz of two-tone slaps (am I doing that right?) seems to be an inevitable part of aging. And while Citizen’s decision to opt for gold accents to mark the 40th anniversary of the Promaster Aqualand probably isn’t a nod to middle aged collectors and is more likely a heartfelt way to honor the original Aqualand C0023, it feels satisfyingly appropriate that this icon is embracing two-tone to celebrate being over the hill. In full transparency of my own horological biases, I went into this review feeling burnt out on dive watches, which in retrospect seems inevitable after owning about a dozen black dialed divers over a five year period. In recent months I’ve also developed a bit of a pro-quartz preference as my first mechanical watches start to show their age and I’m seeking out watchmakers on a limited budget, another seemingly inevitable result of my collecting journey. I share this because, no longer dazzled by ratcheting bezels and mechanical movements in the way I once was, I thought it would be nice to get my hands on a robust and worry free quartz watch to take on my annual road trip from New Hampshire to Michigan. One text to our Managing Editor Zach Kazan during which I forgot to clarify that I would be content if I never saw another black dial d...
Worn & Wound
Anoma has quickly emerged as one of our favorite small independents making truly interesting, design forward watches. Few watches point more toward the enormous pendulum swing away from straightforward vintage inspired sports watches than the brand’s A1, introduced in the summer of last year. It’s more than just a watch with a uniquely shaped case – it’s a deliberate design exercise by brand founder Matteo Violet Vianello, and illustrates that rather than taking design inspiration from other watches, you can find shapes and textures to emulate in furniture, art, and the natural world. It’s also just an extremely well made object at a price point that feels fair for the originality of the design, and watch enthusiasts seem to agree. Vinaello says his waitlist is currently ten times longer than the number of watches available. Anoma’s latest is the A1 Optical, which takes the same, vaguely triangular case shape and adds an engraved dial inspired Optical Art. Also known as Op Art, this was an art movement that has its origins in the 1960s and can be characterized by the use of abstract geometric patterns formed to create optical illusions. Optical Art will often play with the viewer’s perception of depth and movement to create the kinds of objects and imagery that have us questioning our senses. The engraved dial on the new A1 is created with a sharp and very fine tool that is used to carve into the dial’s metal base. A total of fifty slightly offset trian...
Time+Tide
The latest offering from Anoma brings an optical illusion to the dial with an engraved and highly polished surface. The post Anoma enters its third chapter with the Optical appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
One of the oldest Seiko watches still in production, the Alpinist was introduced in 1959 (note that the Laurel, released in 1913, is even more enduring), and it has since become a staple of the brand’s catalogue. Considered Seiko’s first professional watch, it was designed specifically by Seiko for Yama-Otoko, or mountain men. The collection […]
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Time+Tide
This Japanese microbrand combines funky colours and playful yet purposeful design in this decidedly contemporary dive watch.The post The Namica Shirahama 2 is a serious not-so-serious dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Let's just cut to the chase, and talk about what, if anything, is new here...The post What is “new” with the latest Snoopy MoonSwatch, the Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Good morning, and welcome to the Sunday Morning Showdown you knew was coming. Today, we put Casio’s all-new mechanical Edifice EFK-100 up against the fan-favorite Citizen Tsuyosa. We’re still not entirely sure why Casio took this new path, but, like the Citizen Tsuyosa, the watches punch way above their weight. Both brands offer a design […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-100 to read the full article.
Monochrome
In the world of dive watches, the landscape has always been dominated by a few heavy hitters who got into the game early, made a name for themselves, and never left. Brands like Rolex, Omega, Blancpain, and Seiko have always been inextricably linked to the history of the dive watch, and with good reason. But […]
Hodinkee
Swiss executives and politicians expect significant economic consequences from the outsized levy imposed on Swiss exports to U.S. including watches but still hope deal can be reached.
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