Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Ref. 6007A-001 Calatrava, Celebrating The New Manufacture In Geneva
Patek's first new watch of 2020 is a steel celebration of the new HQ.
Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)
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WatchAdvice
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Review
The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 is simply a watch that explains Oris’s true personality. The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 goes back to the roots of what mechanical watches are all about. In today’s world, so many of us know what the things around us can do, but rarely actually know how they work. The same logic applies to mechanical watches too. We see brilliant timepieces made and know what they can do, yet rarely see or understand the inner workings behind them. This is the idea behind the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, to show as much as possible how the true inner workings of a mechanical watch operate. Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 There is almost a natural connection between a mechanical watch and its owner. If we don’t wind it, or even yet move, we won’t drive enough power to turn the mainspring which ultimately powers the movement. This is what Oris is trying to show with the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115. Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Oris’s Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 was inspired by nature, in particular, a Valley named Waldenburg, which surrounds the village of Hölstein. This particular village is significant to Oris, as it is there where the brand originally began. Oris was founded in 1904, and since then the brand has been based in Hölstein. It’s no wonder then that they would go back there to find sources of inspiration for arguably the “most Oris watch” they have ever made. Oris Big Crown ProPi...
Time+Tide
7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials
Watch modification, or “modding”, is a remarkably popular subset of the watch collecting community, where enthusiasts will tinker with their watches to build totally customised pieces to wear. Without a doubt the most popular brand in the modding space is Seiko, where the combination of affordability and relatively widespread access to quality parts makes for … ContinuedThe post 7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Time+Tide and DOXA contribute a sexy carbon SUB 300 Aqualung US Divers Limited Edition to Revolution x The Rake’s Covid-19 Solidarity Auction
It was recently decided in a 15-second phone call between myself and DOXA CEO Jan Edocs that Time+Tide and DOXA would jointly contribute a SUB 300 Carbon Aqualung US Divers Edition to the Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 solidarity auction. The auction has raised a staggering $193,559USD so far, with four days left to bid. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Time+Tide and DOXA contribute a sexy carbon SUB 300 Aqualung US Divers Limited Edition to Revolution x The Rake’s Covid-19 Solidarity Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
Editor’s note: Every great product has a genesis, and for this Italian-founded watch and jewellery firm it is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic. It was the one that started it all back in 2017, leaving eyes wide open with its sharply faceted design and ultra-thin construction. In the years following, we have seen the same … ContinuedThe post The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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GENEVA WATCH DAYS! Ulysse Nardin prove they own the seas and Tony Stark's choice, Urwerk drop 🔥
Time+Tide
Oris has an answer to the horrors of 2020, and it’s an all-bronze Hölstein Edition 2020 with a bear on the back
The ‘My Plans’ memes are right. 2020 has been annus horribilis. It’s ruined just about every party on the planet. Oris knows this, and they’ve got a plan. It involves what is claimed to be Switzerland’s first all bronze watch. Yes, including the bracelet. And, oh, to turn up the smiles, there’s a bear on … ContinuedThe post Oris has an answer to the horrors of 2020, and it’s an all-bronze Hölstein Edition 2020 with a bear on the back appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Shrouded In Mystery And Fire: Opals In Jaquet Droz And Piaget Timepieces – Reprise
Alexander Doerr had never really paid much attention to opals before, but upon closer inspection he realized this gemstone is extraordinary – shrouded in mystery and well worth learning more about. Looking at an opal is like looking at fireworks or even looking into a galaxy. And, as he learned, two Swiss watch brands specialize in using the fiery gemstone in watches: Jaquet Droz and Piaget.
Quill & Pad
Hot Air Magic: How Wristwatches And Hot Air Balloons Soar Upward – Reprise
Strong stories and captivating histories constantly seduce watchmakers to create various special editions, and ballooning is one of those adventurous feats that has captured some horological imaginations. Here Jan Lidmaňský highlights a few watch brands that have floated through the sky, both literally and figuratively.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia
One of the grandest and oldest watchmakers in the world, Breguet was founded in 1775 and usually sticks to watches very much rooted in tradition. Even its high jewellery timepieces are elaborate and lavish, but still old school. The new Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia, however, is a strikingly lively, ocean-inspired jewellery watch. Named after the Posidonia oceanica, a seagrass found the Mediterranean sometimes known as Neptune grass, the new Marine has an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial invisibly set with 85 gemstones to form an elegant floating-seagrass motif surrounded by baguette-cut gemstones. It’s very different from the usual Breguet fare – in a good way – especially in the coloured gemstone versions. The Poseidonia is available four variations, each distinguished by the combination of gemstones. While the diamond version is set only with diamonds, the emerald, ruby, and sapphire models are each set with a variety of gems – amethysts and tsavorites on the sapphire version for instance – to create a rainbow-hued decor. The ruby And emerald Initial thoughts Breguet has a penchant for making high-jewellery timepieces inspired by nature. Thematically, the Poseidonia is no different, but it is far, far more spectacular in visual effect. Going by the photos, the watch will no doubt be dazzling and unapologetically luxe – and a world away from the restrained elegance of the Marine for men. Watches that have been liberally set with gems tend to b...
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Blue
Unveiled just last year, the Bell & Ross BR 05 was yet another luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelets, but priced more affordably than the average. The flagship model of the line up was the BR 05 Skeleton, an urban and contemporary open-worked watch that’s just been given a new look. The BR 05 Skeleton Blue is essentially the same as last year’s model, but facelifted with a blue-tinted sapphire dial that gives it a punchier look. Initial thoughts The BR 05 is one of my favourites from Bell & Ross. The design blends the key elements of the brand’s flagship military-aviation watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, and incorporates them into a case that is modern and sharp, giving it arguably greater mainstream appeal than the military-inspired pilot’s watches. While the BR 01 and BR 03 are undoubtedly icons, their tool-like appearance and large case – 46 mm and 42 mm respectively – definitely dissuade some. On the other hand, the BR 05 is much more manageable on the wrist at 40 mm wide and 10.4 mm in height. Though it’s smaller than the BR 01 and BR 03, the case is architectural in form, and features myriad textures – polished and satin-brushed surfaces, often separated by polished bevels. The result is a smallish but appealing case that manages to look three-dimensional. I feel that the BR 05 Skeleton works better as a whole, compared to its solid-dial counterparts. The open-worked movement enhances the visual depth of the watch. While the blue-tinte...
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Jack Turner Pilots Watch Giveaway - The Traveler Field watch Double Giveaway Meca-Quartz 100m Watch
SJX Watches
Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry
Revolutionary for its construction and use of silicon, the Ulysse Nardin Freak is still a unique watch almost two decades after its introduction. And the full-featured Freak is still a relatively costly watch, until the Freak X came along last year. The most affordable version of a watch that helped kickstart the age of high-tech mechanical watchmaking, the Freak X retains the essence of its bigger brother while simplifying the rest of the movement. Several iterations of the Freak X have been rolled out since then, including one that ironically takes silicon out of the movement – the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. The watch has a dial decorated with inlaid tiles of iridescent silicon, using the material for its aesthetic potential, rather than the usual functional purposes in the escapement. The Freak X Silicium Marquetry Initial thoughts The Freak X Silicium Marquetry is an aesthetic variant of the standard model, so it’s identical in all respects except the dial finish. A combination of metallic and glassy, the silicon dial is different from any other dial material and suits the look of the watch well. That means the case is compact, so it wears quite well. And more importantly, the watch has a cutting-edge balance wheel amounted on the minute hand, making one revolution an hour. It’s a surprisingly advanced regulator in a watch at this price point, and probably the most advanced of all watches in the price segment. But the Freak X Silicium Marquetry is substantiall...
Deployant
New: Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB171 Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary
Seiko releases a new Presage SPB171 with the Arita porcelain dial. This novelty is a dial update to the three hand watch with fan shaped power reserve indicator released in 2019.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst
When Walter Lange celebrated his 90th birthday in 2014, A. Lange & Söhne marked the occasion with a short interview. Asked how he would define the brand, the great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange quoted the late Günter Blümlein: “A Lange watch is a fusion of the arts… [and] the unique technology and artisanship to which we are committed.” Lange has created many special watches since it was re-established in 1994, but one family of timepieces embodies Blümlein’s description – Handwerkskunst. A line of limited-edition watches, Handwerkskunst – which translates as “craftsmanship” – is defined by traditional artistic techniques of decoration and exemplary hand-finish, a combination that is truly a “fusion of the arts”. The goal of this article is to provide the context behind the creation of the Handwerkskunst series, and to detail the individual models. The focus will be on the details of each model, how they differ from their standard counterparts, and the realised prices at auction – livened up by my personal experience and opinion. Five of the eight Handwerkskunst models launched to date, without the Richard Lange Pour le Merite, Cabaret Tourbillon, and Datograph Why handwerkskunst? I am often asked why I love Lange watches. It’s a long answer, but one reason goes beyond the watch themselves – it is the brand’s determination to preserve and develop the artisanal crafts in Saxony. In fact, Lange is something of a hub for artisans in the ...
Quill & Pad
Bohematic Graphic Sutnar: Czech Watchmaking By Design
The Bohematic Graphic Sutnar is an homage to Ladislav Sutnar, the most significant artistic figure in Czechoslovakia's interwar period of modernism. Sutnar was chosen as the historical figure to launch this brand-new micro brand and its first line. However, the Graphic Sutnar watch bears not only the name of the world-renowned artist, but also his unique font for the numerals. Find out what all that means right here!
SJX Watches
Business News: Frédéric Arnault Appointed Chief Executive of TAG Heuer
Having joined TAG Heuer in 2017, Frédéric Arnault has just been named the watchmaker’s boss, effective July 1. He succeeds Stephane Bianchi, who will then be elevated to head the newly-formed LVMH Watch and Jewellery division – a job that Mr Arnault is perhaps being groomed for – which encompasses the group’s three watch brands, which include Hublot and Zenith, as well as its smaller jewellery brands, Chaumet and Fred. The biggest LVMH jewellery brand, Bulgari, retains its standalone status. Bulgari chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin, who industry sources say enjoys a competitive rivalry with Mr Bianchi, will report only to the number two man in LVMH, Group Managing Director Antonio Belloni. Presumably Tiffany & Co., the American jeweller that LVMH is in the process of acquiring, will enjoy similar independence. A digital leader While Mr Arnault is the fourth son of Bernard Arnault, the founder and controlling shareholder of LVMH, the younger Arnault arrived in the watch business with an impressive résumé. The 25-year old graduated from France’s prestigious Ecole Polytechnique with a degree in Computational and Applied Mathematics, notching up internships at McKinsey and Facebook along the way. He started at TAG Heuer as head of connected watches, just as the brand was ramping up its push into smartwatches, before being promoted to Strategy and Digital Director in 2018, where he led the design of the latest-generation Connected watch. The recently launch...
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Budget luxury watch killer below $700: Tissot PRX Automatic review
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars
When Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin announced the Mars Conqueror last year, it was not the first Martian-time wristwatch, but it was by far the most advanced and comprehensive watch to indicate Martian time – and even the Martian calendar. TAG Heuer was appointed the official timekeeper for China’s Mars exploration mission in 2016, with its chief executive Jean-Claude Biver declaring that exploring the Red Planet is “the next giant leap for humanity”. With its launch planned for July 2020, the Chinese journey to Mars is just one of several missions to the planet – Russian space agency Roscosmos and NASA are working on similar projects. Despite the steady progress in reaching Mars, no big watch brand has debuted a watch that tells Martian time. Konstantin Chaykin’s experimental Mars Conqueror of 2019 But such watches have been built, as a matter of necessity for the scientists involved in past Mars missions. NASA’s Mars Exploration Rover (MER) of 2004, for instance, commissioned several watchmakers to construct simple but effective Martian-time watches. Since the Martian day, known as a sol, is 24 hours, 39 minutes and 35 seconds, the solution was to slow a conventional watch to match Martian time. Steve Maddox of North Little Rock converted a second world war, military-issue Hamilton 4992B pocket watch for MER team member Jeff Moersch, reducing its frequency from the standard 18,000 beats per hour (bph) to about 17,525 bph. And Los Ang...
Time+Tide
Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in…
Entire nations forced under lockdown, airlines teetering on the brink of collapse, fistfights erupting over rolls of toilet paper … Coronavirus has rocked the planet and God knows what life will be like when ‘normality’ resumes. It’s unlikely to be normal as we knew it, that’s for sure. In such desperate times, it may seem … ContinuedThe post Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Interview: Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot
Though he runs one of the world’s most high-profile watch brands, Ricardo Guadalupe is less flamboyant than many of his peers. But the 30-year veteran of the watch industry has grown the brand into one of the world’s ten biggest watchmakers measured by revenue, making him one of the most successful leaders in the industry. A longtime deputy to the larger-than-life Jean-Claude Biver – though he is now the boss, Mr Guadalupe still acknowledges his mentor often – he took charge of Hublot in 2012 after his former boss was tapped to run the watch division of LVMH. During his tenure, Mr Guadalupe not only continued Hublot’s sales growth, but also substantially expanded its manufacturing capability – a feat that is often overlooked and underrated. That was made possible in part by a career that has taken him from product development to manufacturing, allowing him to develop an all-encompassing grasp of the business, explaining how Hublot manages to produce both its own movements – and its own proprietary, bright-red ceramic. I spoke to Mr Guadalupe during LVMH Watch Week earlier this year, where he discussed his measured and practical approach to delivering consistently excellent performance and product, exemplified by the years-long evolution of Hublot’s signature Big Bang into the Integral. The interview was edited for length and clarity. You guys did a really good job with the new Big Bang Integral. It’s difficult doing a nice bracelet, but you managed it. ...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy 21 Ultraviolet
While Zenith occasionally looks into its famed attic for inspiration, the brand regularly shows off its innovation and forward-thinking sensibilities. Case in point – the new Defy 21 Ultraviolet. The watch is dressed entirely in violet, a colour with one of the highest frequencies in the visible spectrum, making the livery a conceptual complement to the 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 9004 inside the watch. Initial thoughts It never really struck me how uncommon the colour is in watchmaking until I saw the new Defy 21 (though the influencer and collector Amr Sindi has collaborated with several brands to create watches in the colour, and may have had a hand in conceiving the Defy 21 Ultraviolet). A bold choice of choice, violet is used for the dial and strap, but also throughout the movement, making for a fun and casual watch, especially on the rubber strap covered in violet fabric. Though the violet elements might seem loud at first glance, the colour isn’t actually too much. It’s a dark purple that’s more Imperial Rome than Joker from Batman. And it is essentially a two-colour watch in violet and dark grey; the use of a micro-blasted titanium case, helps to diminish the visual prominence of watch. Colour aside, the Defy 21 is a strong value proposition – though it’s the best value in its simplest guise – offering a twin-oscillator, high-frequency chronograph movement for a relatively affordable price. A new face Colour aside, the look is pretty much like the...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s
The Seiko Presage collection has long been a popular part of the brand’s lineup thanks to the well-tuned value proposition, and the amount of watch you get for your money. The Seiko SPB161 is another fine example. Featuring a crisp enamel dial and powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 6R27, you are once again gaining … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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MTM US 744x Automatic Seiko 6R20 Powered Grade 5 Titanium DLC Coated Tactical Watch
Time+Tide
Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono
Watch press releases are guilty of purple prose on a daily basis. But you can forgive Zenith a poetic, purple turn of phrase or two here, because what they have brought together in the Defy 21 Ultraviolet – which is the highest frequency colour with a high frequency chronograph, able to measure time to 1/100th … ContinuedThe post Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Garrick S3: Experience Begets Improvement
In Joshua Munchow's opinion, British brand Garrick and its latest watch, the S3, are a perfect reference point for growth. The S3 is not only a great example of the unique style of the boutique brand, but as an evolution from the S1 and S2 it highlights the brand’s growth as it pursues better and better creations.
Quill & Pad
You Are There: Visiting The L.A. Mayer Museum For Islamic Art In Jerusalem, Home Of The Breguet No. 160 ‘Marie Antoinette’
When Bhanu Chropra visited Israel on a business trip in 2019, a colleague suggested a short visit to see the historically important sites in Jerusalem, and knowing his passion for horology said that he had a special surprise for him: visiting the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art. The museum holds one of the world’s most horologically significant pocket watch, clock, and automaton collections, and the star of the show is Breguet No. 160, aka “the Marie Antoinette.”
WatchAdvice
DOXA SUB 200 Review
Introduction When it comes to iconic dive watches, few individual pieces, let alone brands at large, possess the pedigree and character akin to that of Doxa. Having adorned the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and fictional character Dirk Pitt, there is little left for the imagination in terms of what their watches are capable of enduring. If I’ve ever had a watch that I bought initially under, and due to, the influence of alcohol, immediately felt a sense of “what have I done”, and then fell in love with more than I could have ever conceived, that’d be the Caribbean Doxa Sub 200. It may not be the signature “fat” cushion case with the integrated no-decompression dive time calculator, nor does it wear the signature orange dial that made Doxa stand out from the rest back in 1967, but one thing it certainly is not, is boring. Initially at face value, it’s your standard issue dive watch with your usual checks in the right boxes. But as any watch geek would know, we never “fall” for a watch as a result of its specs sheet, but rather the way you feel when it’s on your wrist, we obsess over the most minute details, the little, split second glances that make you smile. The SUB 200 does just that, while not breaking the bank and delivers value at the top of its class. The SUB 200 is what I like to call the gateway drug to the world of what Doxa has to offer. It delivers the rugged, utilitarian construction to take on the seas, or in my case, crashing into the ground ...
SJX Watches
Gerald Charles Introduces the Maestro Anniversary
Gerald Genta is enjoying something of a renaissance now, with the frenzied demand for his most famous designs. And now one of his more obscure designs is making a comeback. One of the most acclaimed and prolific watch designers, Genta’s heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him design a host of iconic watches, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. After his eponymous brand was acquired by Bulgari in the year 2000, Genta founded another brand named after his first and middle names – Gerald Charles. Though Gerald Charles went dormant after Genta’s death in 2011, the brand has been revived on its 20th anniversary by Genta’s former business partner. The inaugural launch is its first stainless steel watch – the Maestro Anniversary, which is distinctive, eccentric, and very much reflective of Genta’s late-career style. And 30% of the proceeds from each Maestro sold will to donated to the COVID-19 fund set up by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Initial thoughts I like Genta’s designs, and I like the Maestro. It is a unique case that manages to draw a balance between being sporty and elegant – an endearing trait that I find common amongst Genta’s designs. The new Maestro keeps the dial functional and simple, and adds a pattern rubber strap to the mix, giving it a casual yet distinctive look. But at over US$9,600, the price is too steep, especially in light of the Soprod-based movement inside. The hefty, 30% donation to the WHO’s C...
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