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Time+Tide
We spoke to those on the inside of the British watch industry to discover what it's like as it looks to expand and solidify. The post The Current State of the British Watch Industry – as told by those on the inside appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Breguet Tradition collection is not only a tribute to the brand’s past, with clear historical references and movements that are designed to mimic those of antique pocket watches, but it’s also home to serious complications. And one of them is, without a doubt, the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077. A complex watch built in a […]
SJX Watches
Bearing an equestrian motif in typical Hermès style, the Arceau Robe Légère has a dial in paillonné enamel. Inspired by the silk scarf of the same name, the dial depicts horse composed of thin layers of delicately formed silver leaf on a dark blue enamel base. Initial thoughts Paillonné is a relatively uncommon technique in watchmaking, and even when employed in watches it’s usually traditional in style. The Arceau Robe Légère, in contrast, has a modern, slightly whimsical feel, as is typical of Hermes’ house style, which sets it apart from most executions of paillonné enamel. Granted, the equestrian motif is familiar and employed again and again, but it is very much Hermes. You wouldn’t expect anything else from a brand that began as a maker of leather saddles for horse riding. Silver horse Featuring a 38 mm white gold Arceau case with its asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs, the Arceau Robe Légère sports 71 brilliant-cut diamonds on its bezel. The dial is in a dark blue fired enamel with the paillonné technique applied on top, with its intricate detailed revealed only up close. The horse is actually composed of flowers, which are in turn made up of tiny pieces of silver foil (known as paillons) carefully assembled by hand on the dark blue enamel base. The motif is then painted over with clear enamel to set it on the base. The watch is powered by the self-winding H1912 made by Vaucher. It offers 50 hours of power reserve, and beats at 28,800 beats per hour...
Time+Tide
Hublot doubles down on tennis goat Novak by using his polos and racquets in this new case material composite. The post The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic weighs less than a tennis ball appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Time and space are deeply intertwined, so it’s no surprise that images of the cosmos continue to inspire watchmakers. Since introducing its Antarctique collection of sports watches with integrated bracelets in 2020, Czapek has explored celestial themes with creations like the Antarctique Orion Nebula and the Antarctique Celestial-no longer in the brand’s current lineup. Other […]
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Fratello
Audemars Piguet put a tourbillon inside an edgy titanium watch, and Kaws put a miniature Companion. “AP” is very active in the art scene, so every once in a while, a special collaboration watch emerges. Audemars Piguet introduces the 43mm limited-edition Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion,” a series of 250 futuristic titanium watches infused with […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces The 43mm Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Kaws' iconic Companion character finds its way onto an AP dial in a luxurious confluence of hype and horology.The post Audemars Piguet teams up with hyped artist Kaws for a subversive Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Important watches from Japanese watchmaking history, JDM limited editions, and some oddball offerings.
AWAKE is a French horological brand with a very unique take on the future of watches. They are intent on using the culture and traditions of métiers d’art-or artisanal craftsmanship-to carve a new pathway apart from trends that so often get repeated time and time again in this particular industry. Prior to the Windup Windup Watch Fair, we met up with the AWAKE team, Lilian Thibault and Thibaut Sacre, on The High Line in NYC for a quick discussion on the brand, the importance of métiers d’art, their latest Sơn Mài collection, and what the future holds for AWAKE. The post Designing the Future with AWAKE appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Since Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly founded Collective Horology in 2018, the company has become known as one of the leading US-based retailers of watches from independent brands. But Collective has also collaborated with several brands on an impressive number of limited editions. For its tenth collaborative effort, Collective teamed up with Zenith again for […] Visit Introducing: The Monochromatic Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Doxa is renowned for crafting rugged watches with a focus on functionality – tool watches, all featuring that toughness, high-water resistance or scratch-proof sapphire crystal you expect from utilitarian divers. Today, mechanical watches are as much luxury items as they are functional tools. In response to “strong demand from markets”, the brand’s compact and rather […]
SJX Watches
The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...
Worn & Wound
I had the privilege of writing about the last Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n release for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the following week with the RedBar traveling road show. It was a real treat to see and handle their watches in person finally. They even had one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was quite exquisite, as was the new Salm0n, but part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t moving upscale, leaving behind what got them there in the first place: affordable, whimsical chronographs that make you smile when you look down at your wrist. When I learned that Seagull had announced a new minimum order quantity of 10,000 units for their ST-19 series movements, I became concerned about Studio Underd0g’s most popular model, the 01SERIES. This worry was heightened by the brouhaha that followed the collaboration with Moser and the decision to use Sellita-based movements in their 03SERIES. Fear not, as Studio Underd0g has successfully contracted Seagull to create an exclusive and enhanced version of their caliber called the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their commitment to providing mechanical chronographs priced under $1,000. For those unfamiliar with the history of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph movement, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus sold its machinery, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Factory. They then upgraded the original 17-jewel movement to ...
Monochrome
Following the previous 4 editions – The Millennium Watch Book, Tourbillon Watches, Divers Watches and Chronographs – GMT Publishing now releases a fifth opus in their The Millenium book series. This 2024 edition is dedicated to travel watches (displaying additional time zones), a highly practical and purposeful function for globetrotters, frequent travellers and those doing […]
Worn & Wound
It’s getting close to the end of the year, and many of us are naturally in a reflective mood. I’d like to think I speak for most watch writers when I say that for us, it’s all about looking back at the almost incalculable number of watches we saw over the course of the year, and the reviews they spawned. Considering all the watches I got to look at this year, there are a handful that really stand out, and the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is easily one of them. We talk about Christopher Ward a lot around here because they continue to surprise us, expanding the very definition of what a “Christopher Ward” can be, and the C1 Moonphase is one of my favorite examples of that. It’s truly an art piece – made of slabs of aventurine with no markers to speak of and accented with giant, glowing moons in constant rotation. In a quiet way, it’s every bit as adventurous as the Bel Canto or Twelve X. If there was one issue with it, though, it was the size. At just over 40mm, it was perhaps a little big for some who expect a watch like this to be more discreet. If that describes you, you’re in luck, as Christopher Ward has just announced a new version of the C1 Moonphase in a more versatile 37mm size. If you envision a watch like this as an accent to a suit (maybe even a tuxedo) or you simply have smaller wrists or prefer a more traditional dress watch size, this new version should have a ton of appeal. Personally, I stand by my original review, where I wrote that a...
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Time+Tide
Germany's Heinrich blends 70s and 80s style with ultra-modern material tech for its latest watch.The post Heinrich forges ahead with the new Taucher Lume Infused Forged Carbon V2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
BA111OD is still a young brand in a world of watches that is full of historical powerhouses. But ever since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has quickly made a name for itself with some interesting new ideas. There is plenty to check out, from the compelling business model to the integration of connectivity and the […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back. While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...
Time+Tide
Going from making 200,000 cases a year to relaunching with a hot new dress watch, Dennison is on the up and up.The post Has Dennison risen from the dead? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Praesidus is one of those brands I have quickly come to love. It focuses on introducing vintage-inspired military watches with unique stories. The brand has a knack for finding remarkable military stories and using them as inspiration for its timepieces. The latest addition to the growing lineup is the Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph. This watch’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Meca-Quartz Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph to read the full article.
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Monochrome
While I’m no expert on the subject of Mil-Spec watches, or military-related timing instruments in general, I do know instantly if I like a watch or not. And every now and then a watch comes along that wins me over with its first impression, only to be disappointed when I see it in real life […]
Monochrome
Brellum was founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker who set up shop in Porrentruy, Switzerland. With a limited production of around 299 watches a year and an emphasis on chronometer-certified movements, Brellum’s policy of direct sales to avoid middlemen allows the brand to keep its prices in check. One of this independent […]
Fratello
Over the past year, we’ve reviewed several watches from Brellum. The team has always been impressed with the pieces’ build quality and relative affordability. However, we and our readers have been hoping for smaller-diameter watches. That day is here with the new Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer. Previously reviewed Brellum watches have measured in the 42–43mm […] Visit Hands-On With The New Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The best bit of trivia I’ve heard about the Ball Watch Company, founded by its eponym, Webster Clay “Webb” Ball in 1891 — and one I have admittedly kept alive in conversations over the years — is that the expression “on the ball” actually has its origins in the world-renowned accuracy of the railroad watches the company produced in the early 20th Century. The legend, likely apocryphal, has it that “on the ball,” which today denotes a general sense of efficiency and promptness, once referred to a train being dependably on time thanks to the conductor’s use of one of Webb Ball’s meticulously adjusted pocket chronometers. Whether or not any of this is true, what cannot be disputed is Ball Watch’s impressive track record in making tool watches — initially for keeping the railways that knitted together the modern, interconnected United States running smoothly, and eventually pieces engineered specially for divers, pilots, firefighters, and even storm chasers. Ball’s latest release is the Roadmaster M Model A, a timepiece that ushers a mechanical alarm function (that’s the “A”) into the lineup for the first time. As a diehard fan of the somewhat niche complication (I sing its praises and explore its storied history here), I was excited when the Ball Watch team sent me the heads-up on the model several months ahead of its debut and even more eager to get my hands on it for a review. As with most Ball watches, the case of the Roadmaster M Mode...
Time+Tide
Czapek makes its classical chronograph more sporty with a new dial texture and a tachymeter scale.The post The Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads refreshes Czapek’s classically modern high-beat chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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