Hodinkee
Review: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon
A watch for daily wear, now with a tourbillon.
Results for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco
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Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Bremont H-4 Hercules
The story in a second: The Bremont H-4 Hercules offers a tool watch, which could pair with a dinner jacket, and doesn’t lose any Bremont DNA. In any piece of design, there is a source of inspiration that is at least, in part, responsible for the final product that you are looking at. In the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Bremont H-4 Hercules appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a Jade Dial
Following the launch of the one-of-a-kind 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a blue agate dial for the upcoming Only Watch charity auction, Montblanc has unveiled a limited edition in bronze with a nephrite jade dial. The eight-piece edition was created for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR), a big watch fair in Mexico City attended by most major brands, explaining the green dial with red accents – a nod to the Mexican flag. Though the bronze-and-green livery has been applied to multiple models in the 1858 range, the new SIAR edition adds a fascinating point of departure, with the dial being a semiprecious stone rather than the usual lacquered brass. The dial is essentially a thin slice of nephrite, a mineral better known as jade. It’s usually dark green, but sometimes also yellow or white; white nephrite is known as “mutton fat” jade in China and highly prized. The other mineral also known as jade is jadeite, but it’s harder, denser and often found in brighter colours. Mechanically and aesthetically, the watch is as retro as it gets. The design of the dial was inspired by a pilot’s chronograph produced by Minerva in the 1930s. It has a double chronograph scales – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the centre. The rose-gold plated cathedral hands and Arabic numerals are coated with faux-aged lume, as on the regular production model. The red seconds numerals and hand adds a rich contrast against the pleasingly busy dial, ...
Time+Tide
Top 5 Grand Seiko dials of 2019
It has been a stellar year for Grand Seiko, with the Japanese watchmaker releasing not only a bevy of new iterations of some of their most popular models, but also a completely new manual-wind dress watch, the SBGK series. And, as is always the case with Grand Seiko, the arresting dials adorning these new timepieces … ContinuedThe post Top 5 Grand Seiko dials of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bremont H-4 Hercules: Inspired By Howard Hughes’ ‘Spruce Goose’
The Bremont H-4 Hercules’ rotor incorporates original birchwood veneer that flew on Howard Hughes' historic trip in the 'Spruce Goose' off the coast of California in 1947. Shaped into four propeller blades, the precious and historical wood was shipped to the UK from the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville, Oregon, where the plane resides today. Here Nancy Olson tells us what else is cool about this watch!
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Patek Philippe vs. $500 Watch? | Watchfinder & Co.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Darren’s Rolex GMT-Master Ref.1675 “Pepsi”
Birth year watches are a pretty special thing, especially if you manage to find one in a watch model that you actually want. But here’s something you don’t see very often … or ever, really. Darren has gone and bought himself a gorgeous Rolex GMT-Master Ref.1675 “Pepsi” that was not only sold in his birth … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Darren’s Rolex GMT-Master Ref.1675 “Pepsi” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
MIDO OCEAN STAR TRIBUTE SPECIAL EDITION REVIEW
INTRO Recently, we had the opportunity to spend several weeks with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute Special Edition. Released to mark the brand’s 75th anniversary, Mido launched two variations of this vintage-inspired dive watch, which is available in either a Mediterranean Blue or a Deep Black model. Today though, we’re going hands-on with the Deep Black variant. FIRST IMPRESSIONS This is a lot of watch for the money, the package you’re getting for under $1,500 is substantial – and a reminder that you don’t have to spend big bucks to get a capable and attractive tool watch. THE DIAL & HANDS Legibility is no issue on the Ocean Star Tribute thanks to the use of Super-LumiNova on the hour-markers, baton-style hands and bezel. Keeping in line with the heavily vintage-inspired design, both the applied indices and hands are an off-white cream colour, imitating the patina’d look often seen on vintage dive watches. The lollipop-style orange seconds hand offers a pop of colour and compliments the custardy indices. At 3 o’clock you’ll also find an unobtrusive day/date function, which blends into the rest of the dial thanks to a matching date wheel. THE CRYSTAL At first glance, you might mistake the Ocean Star Tribute’s boxed Sapphire crystal for acrylic. However, tougher and less prone to scratches, the use of sapphire crystal blends modern materials with vintage design, ensuring legibility. The curved edges of the crystal offer up some intriguing reflections and dis...
SJX Watches
Business News: LVMH Offers to Buy Tiffany & Co.
Luxury giant LVMH has made an offer to buy Tiffany & Co., America’s leading luxury jeweller (and the biggest retailer of Patek Philippe watches in the country), according to the Bloomberg. The French group made an all-cash offer of US$120 a share, a premium of about 22% over Tiffany’s last done share price and valuing the company at about US$14.4 billion. That would make Tiffany’s the biggest acquisition ever for LVMH, which has seen its shares hit record highs recently, bringing its value to over US$210 billion. Despite being the world’s largest luxury group – its brands include Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Rimowa, Hublot and DFS – LVMH is relatively weak in high-end jewellery, especially compared to Swiss rival Richemont, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Piaget, and only just picked up Buccellati. Buying Tiffany would give LVMH a bigger presence in jewellery, as well as greater exposure to the United States, which is the jeweller’s biggest market, account for around a third of sales. LVMH only just opened a bag factory in Texas, the Louis Vuitton Rochambeau Ranch, in an event attended by Donald Trump and LVMH chief executive and controlling shareholder Bernard Arnault, who’s also the third-richest man in the world. Best known for its diamond engagement rings and blue boxes, Tiffany suffered from a weak spell in recent years, with its former chief executive Frederic Cumenal, an LVMH alumni, lasting barely two years. After he departed in 2017, to be...
Quill & Pad
What Will The Future Wristwatch Offer Millennials, Generation X, And Baby Boomers That Other Devices Cannot? A Generational Migration Of Timekeeping Examined – Reprise
How many years before we even start to recognize what the most popular timekeeping devices over the last 70 years were? Another 20 years? Forty? Who will use timekeepers? And for what purposes? What will they look like? I posed these questions to a few top watch industry professionals; their replies were perhaps surprising.
Time+Tide
Suit up with Omega De Ville Trésor
Omega’s recently updated line of De Ville Trésor presents as a compelling proposition for anyone looking for a beautifully made, elegant dress watch. And, for the first time in the De Ville Trésor family, there’s now the option of steel-cased models, which can be had in a few different iterations. For a start, there’s this … ContinuedThe post Suit up with Omega De Ville Trésor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
A Fantastic Pilot Watch From Oris - Big Crown Pro Pilot Date Review
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 1200T
The story in a second: The Doxa SUB 1200T offers a huge amount of legacy, technical capability and exclusivity. Let’s press rewind for a second: the year is 1969, and Doxa S.A., a storied watchmaker established 80 years previously, in 1889, unveils the first publicly available dive watch in the world with a helium escape … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 1200T appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: A closer look at the Omega Trésor
Earlier this week, Felix took a closer look at a watch that has to be a frontrunner for nicest dress watch of the year, the blue dial Omega Trésor. While it’s certainly a good-looking watch, there are two other members of the Trésor family that might even beat it to the punch. The Omega Trésor has … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at the Omega Trésor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Special Feature with Watchscapes: F. Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.4-4 “Night Star”
Watchcapes: Featuring the F. Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.4-4 "Night Star" for Only Watch 2019 - with wallpaper sized images and details on the watch.
Time+Tide
Taking another look at the Tudor Black Bay 41 Blue
Editor’s note: These days, it’s very easy for a watch to be too fussy, too over-designed. Whether it’s unnecessary complications, awkward aesthetics or misjudged attempts at innovation, sometimes a watch just needs to be a watch. A great example of this is Tudor’s Black Bay 41 Blue. This is a timepiece that first and foremost … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Tudor Black Bay 41 Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rolex Unicorns Part III – Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar “Stelline Gordon Bethune”
The third important vintage Rolex – in my opinion – at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction, after the ref. 4113 split-seconds chronograph and mint ref. 8171 “Padellone”, is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar that once belonged to Gordon Bethune, the executive best known for turning around Continental Airlines during his decade-long tenure starting in 1994. The watch a sterling example of the ref. 6062 – and will sell for well over a million dollars – but it is also notable for what it says about the development of the vintage watch market. Now 78 and retired, though he pops up regularly on CNBC to comment on the airline industry, Mr Bethune accumulated his watch collection over two decades. He sold the bulk of it in 2012, but remains probably the only famous business executive known to have collected watches in a serious fashion (another is perhaps former Hollywood talent agent Michael Ovitz, though he more widely regarded as an important collector of contemporary art). Mr Bethune’s collection was inclined towards great, even some of the best, examples of important, uncommon and desirable watches, rather than extraordinarily or unique models. So he owned one of the best-preserved, all-original examples of the ref. 6062s “Stelline”, rather than say a well-worn ref. 6062 with a black, diamond-marker dial. It was a cold day in December… The Gordon Bethune Collection of Fifty Exceptional Vintage Wristwatches took place in December 2012 at Christi...
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The Ultimate $500 To $1000 GMT Watch: Why The Glycine Airman Is Best
Hodinkee
Just Because: My Top Picks From The Upcoming 'Swatch, The All It Takes Is The Will To Do It Exhibition'
Phillips smashes it out of the park with a killer collection of ready-to-buy vintage Swatch watches.
SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces the Seventies Chronograph Limited Edition
First introduced five years ago with dials in solid, metallic colours, Glashütte Original has jazzed up the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with fumé dials featuring a graduated finish. Available either in green or grey fumé, the new edition is limited to 100 pieces each. Like the Sixties range of more classically shaped watches, the Seventies is a heavily retro line inspired by the experimental decade that’s best remembered for the birth of the luxury-sports-watch (and not much else, at least for now). The Seventies watches are typical of that decade’s style, characterised by square, stainless-steel cases and integrated bracelets. The chronograph has a television-shaped case that measures a chunky 40mm wide and 14.1mm in height. Like all of Glashütte Original’s recent, interesting dials, the fumé dials are produced by the former Th. Muller dial factory in Pforzheim that’s owned by its parent, the Swatch Group. Creating the smoked finish starts with the decorative sunray brushing applied to a German silver dial base with a rotating brass brush. The base then undergoes galvanisation before several coats of green or grey lacquer are applied. And finally, to achieve the graduated finish that darkens towards the edges, black lacquer is carefully applied to the edges with a spray gun, creating a slightly irregular dark border, then it is dried in a kiln. Mechanically, the watches are identical to the stock models; they are powered by the automatic chronograph...
Quill & Pad
Bovet Récital 23: It’s All Coming Together
The Récital 23 is Bovet's very first watch with the writing slope-style case designed with women in mind. With its elegant curves and sloping case style, this watch is perfect for a more delicate sensibility. But don't take Joshua Munchow's word for it: see for yourself!
Deployant
Revisiting the Seiko Alpinist
First introduced in 1961, the Seiko Alpinist was a significant milestone in the brand’s history. It was the first ‘Sports Watch’ for the brand, with the intention of it becoming a reliable timepiece for Japanese mountain climbers. These men required a tough and rugged that could be used in the rough terrain.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator
If you’ve been around watches for more than a few years there’s a decent chance you’re familiar with the watch designs of Alain Silberstein. They’re bold, bright and very much of their time - crazy shapes and primary colours that go to show that Bauhaus design is far from boring. It’s minimalism, but in the most … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
My Watch Story: Happiness And Hope Through A Rolex by Dre Bucci
Time+Tide
Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton
Editor’s note: One of my main criteria for a banger watch these days is wearability. Sure, looks are important, but fit reigns supreme. Luckily, the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton delivers on both fronts … The story in a second: Contemporary design and classic size make this a winning combination. It’s no secret that the Defy … ContinuedThe post Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point
Editor’s note: Razor-sharp details, timeless style and a solid new movement make the Baume & Mercier Baumatic an excellent option for an everyday dress watch that doesn’t break the bank. The story in a second: Classic on the outside, contemporary on the inside. Baume & Mercier are onto a winner here. I’ve always thought Baume … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: A deep dive into the future of Baselworld
Whether you’re an inveterate watch tragic, or just starting on your watch journey, the last year has been dominated by two main conversations. The drought of steel sports models (sorry guys, I got no answers for you on that one), and the future of Baselworld. Now, if you’re coming in cold on the concept of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: A deep dive into the future of Baselworld appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Trade Fairs In The Digital Age: SIHH Becomes Watches & Wonders Geneva
As SIHH rebrands to become Watches & Wonders Geneva, it becomes apparent that the trade fairs are morphing into something new and perhaps unexpected. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the latest from SIHH and Baselworld.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Hourstriker Phantom
A simple yet unusual chiming complication, the hourstriker has been a fixture in the Ulysse Nardin line-up for almost three decades, starting with the San Marco Jacquemart developed by Christophe Claret. The hour striker complication has been paired with various automatons over the years, including tigers, horses, oil pumpjacks, and a copulating couple. Now Ulysse Nardin has stripped away the automaton, streamlined the design, and reworked the acoustics – with help from French speaker specialist Devialet – resulting in the Hourstriker Phantom. It’s the brand’s sleekest and most contemporary hour striker to date, and according to Ulysse Nardin, the loudest chiming wristwatch in the world. High-end audio help Founded in 2007 by a trio of Frenchmen, who named the company after 18th century French engineer Guillaume Vialet, Devialet is most famous for its white, egg-shaped Phantom Premier speaker that is compact, powerful and fairly expensive. Most notably, one of its founders, designers Emmanuel Nardin, is a member of the Nardin family that once owned Ulysse Nardin. The Devialet Gold Phantom Opéra de Paris speaker Devialet’s contribution to the Hourstriker Phantom was to boost its sound, accomplished in two ways. The first element being the attachment of the gongs to the movement. In an ordinary striking watch, the gongs are fixed with screws. On the other hand, the Hourstriker Phantom has its gongs secured by “torsion arms”, presumably small springs. A...
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