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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono Oct 17, 2022

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap

Chopard has long produced complicated and/or highly decorated pieces in their L.U.C collection as well as sport-oriented watches like the Mille Miglia, but a space was open for a model to bridge the gap between the two. This is where the Chopard Alpine Eagle steps in. Following in the footsteps of the 1980s St. Moritz, … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble SJX Watches
Cartier Re)Introduces Oct 17, 2022

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble

Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020. Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case. Initial thoughts Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape. The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price. The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach. Sometimes known as the “baseball” The Pebble belongs to the group of oddl...

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Bulgari, Chopard, Or Armin Strom? Quill & Pad
Armin Strom ? Now we are Oct 16, 2022

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Bulgari, Chopard, Or Armin Strom?

Now we are onto the big bad boys of the GPHG. Mechanical Exception is where we put the most mechanically incredible watches head to head, and the name of the game is horological creativity. Aesthetics help but a wild, avant-garde watch can easily win this category because there is no limit. So how does our panel choose?

Modified with the dial of a Rolex Daytona, this iPhone is the ideal gift for a lunatic despot. Here’s why… Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Oct 16, 2022

Modified with the dial of a Rolex Daytona, this iPhone is the ideal gift for a lunatic despot. Here’s why…

“Saddam’s chandelier was the size of a two-car garage,” wrote the late P.J. O’Rourke in a piece on Saddam Hussein’s taste in interior design. “If a reason to invade Iraq was wanted – felony decorating would have done.” It’s this sort of dictator chic that springs to mind when confronted by the maniacal excess of … ContinuedThe post Modified with the dial of a Rolex Daytona, this iPhone is the ideal gift for a lunatic despot. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fellows Timed Auction: Accessible Watches And Perhaps The First Omega x Swatch Moonswatch To Appear At Traditional Auction Quill & Pad
Omega x Swatch Moonswatch Oct 14, 2022

Fellows Timed Auction: Accessible Watches And Perhaps The First Omega x Swatch Moonswatch To Appear At Traditional Auction

Fellows auction house is still something of a hidden gem, so if you look hard you might find incredible bargains. The author herself has gotten very lucky here, once even managing to find a timepiece that she had long been searching for at an unpredictably good price. See what you can find in the next timed auction!

Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Oct 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph

Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Oct 13, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel

Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons Quill & Pad
Oct 11, 2022

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons

Astronomical complications are poetic in nature, more emotional than practical. Calendar complications are the exact opposite: perfectly practical and useful complications for time management. Since the category doesn’t dictate specifically what should be valued and only outlines what fits into the category, it leaves a lot up to our panel on what we subjectively value more and why in this latest round table of 2022 GPHG nominations.

Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches Time+Tide
Oct 11, 2022

Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches

Galactic emperor, elven king or supervillain – Lee Pace refuses to be typecast, lending his chiselled chin to a variety of larger-than-life characters.  Nominated for an Emmy for his work in Pushing Daisies and hailed for standout performances in Soldier’s Girl and Lincoln, his newest silver-screen foray sees him play a suspect in the slasher-murder-mystery ordeal that is Bodies Bodies … ContinuedThe post Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera x Porsche 911 RS 2.7 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Oct 11, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera x Porsche 911 RS 2.7

To mark the 50th anniversary of the iconic Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7, TAG Heuer unveils the limited-edition Carrera x Porsche 911 RS 2.7, continuing its partnership with the luxury carmaker that started last year. The pair of chronographs take clear inspiration from the iconic sports car and the dangerous rally race that inspired Jack Heuer and Ferry Porsche. Initial thoughts The narrow bezel and angular lugs are unmistakably Heuer Carrera, but it’s not a remake. Instead of recreating a vintage model from its archives, Heuer conceptualised a new iteration of the classic for contemporary tastes, while still giving it obvious retro details like the “Carrera” engraving on the case side. Though the dial has more striking elements than the standard Carrera chronograph, the RS 2.7 feels cleaner and more purposeful. The coloured ring linking the hour markers is a nice touch, as is the countdown scale on the outer seconds scale. But because it is based on the standard Carrera chronograph, it has the same dimensions, which means it’s a fairly large watch and also thick at almost 14.5 mm high. While not oversized by modern standards, the case lacks the compact feel of the vintage original. Still, with the retro elements and classic design, the new Carrera chronograph feels like a winner. Since 1972 In his 2013 memoir The Times of My Life, Jack Heuer, great-grandson of Heuer’s founder Edouard, recalled how he was fascinated by Carrera Panamericana, the road rally across Me...

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget & Phillips Introduce Oct 10, 2022

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition

Piaget typically relies on a conventional palette for its signature ultra-thin dress watches, but its latest Altiplano livens things up. A collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Edition is based on the watchmaker’s wafer-thin watch equipped with its in-house, super-flat automatic movement. Ordinarily found with a sedate silver dial, the Altiplano gets gradient green dial with pink gold hands and markings in a 21-piece limited edition available only in China. Initial thoughts Piaget’s typical formal watches with silver dials are classic, but they can be too plain. Excepting a handful with dials in unusual materials or finishes, I find many of them overly formal and visually flat. The China edition, in contrast, instantly stands out. Though it changes nothing in terms of the basic design, the gradient green lacquer and pink gold accents give the dial a vibrance absent in the standard models. Green, however, is today’s fashionable colour, which means it’s more common than it should be. Even so, the China edition has minor design tweaks that give it a more appealing aesthetic than the standard version, like the elimination of the numerals from the seconds register. Priced at 10% more than the standard model in white gold, the China edition is more appealing. Elegantly flat In contrast to similar Altiplano models that are almost uniformly kitted out in silver dials, the China edition has a dial that’s a deep, shaded...

Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): To Win This The Tourbillon Needs To Be Very Special Quill & Pad
Oct 7, 2022

Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): To Win This The Tourbillon Needs To Be Very Special

Five of the six watches in this Tourbillon category are either openworked or dial-less, so their visuals are not dissimilar. Five of the six are also one-minute tourbillons. One-half of the finalists have flying tourbillons, while another boasts a cylindrical tourbillon, and yet another has a constant-force tourbillon. How will our panel ever choose a winner?

The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 7, 2022

The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches

When it comes to collectible vintage military watches, there are the famed “Dirty Dozen” and then there is everything else. Twelve field watches from twelve different Swiss watchmakers, all made within the last two years of World War II and issued to British servicemen, the Dirty Dozen watches represent a rare confluence between horological and military history, while also claiming a coveted spot in the annals of war memorabilia. What brands and watches make up the Dirty Dozen, what is their story, and why are they so legendary today? Read on. Wristwatches came into general usage for men during World War I. While pocket watches were still in vogue for social situations, they proved impractical for troops on the battlefield, who needed the use of both hands in combat situations, such as for loading one’s rifle while simultaneously checking his watch to determine the distance of incoming artillery fire. Watchmakers at the time responded to the demands of warfare in a rather makeshift way at first, re-engineering pocket watch cases with soldered strips of wire to connect them to straps of leather or canvas for wrist wear. While these “trench watches” were effective at the time, advances in military equipment, technology, and strategies in subsequent years necessitated a more purposeful approach to watchmaking as a Second World War erupted in Europe, barely two decades after the end of the so-called War to End all Wars. According to some historical accounts, it was ...