Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: In Conversation With Max Büsser Of MB&F;
Büsser reflects on his time at Jaeger-LeCoultre, (almost) 20 years of MB&F;, and the recent investment by Chanel.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
29,863 articles · 1,999 videos found · page 597 of 1063
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Special Projects Réserve de March ‘Sensu N.O.S.’ Adds The Brands First Power Reserve Indicator
The last few years have been good for enthusiasts of classically designed, complicated watches. Historically the purview of the exorbitantly wealthy, the complicated dress watch has become increasingly democratized in recent years, thanks in no small part to brands like Kurono Tokyo. That impactful role was rewarded with ardent fervor with new releases selling out near-instantaneously. Recently, secondhand availability and the introduction of various anti-flipping techniques have made getting your hand on one of Hajime Asaoka’s affordable creations far easier. But that sense of ease may well renege with the brand’s latest offering, the Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche ‘Sensu N.O.S.’ The signature feature of the new Réserve de Marche (and the complication from which it borrows its name) is the power reserve indicator found between the nine and ten o’clock positions, a first for Kurono Tokyo. This function is made possible thanks to the new old stock Cal. 9134 movements from Citizen. True to form for Kurono Tokyo, that movement has been reworked here; not only to meet Kurono Tokyo’s internal timekeeping standards, but also to remove the movement’s date function, though the 24-hour secondary hour display at six o’clock remains. What results is a classically beautiful, and undeniably well-executed take on a classic complication. Of course, given the inherent limitations created by the use of NOS movements, the Sensu N.O.S. will be “very limited,”...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial
Jacques Bianchi has quickly found a place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts who love the brand’s history and timepieces. With numerous notable releases, the brand has stood out more than once in the past three years. The first ones that come to mind are, without a doubt, the models with illustrations on the dial. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo Réserve De Marche “Sensu N.O.S.” - A Bold Guilloché Move
It might still be a niche brand in numbers and worldwide sales, but Kurono has built a strong following for its colorful wares. Hajime Asaoka’s accessible brand seems to have come at the right time for the small-case trend, but for Sensei, this is nothing new. But by introducing the Kurono Tokyo Réserve de Marche […] Visit Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo Réserve De Marche “Sensu N.O.S.” - A Bold Guilloché Move to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin teams up with French designer Ora ïto for a limited edition Patrimony
Vacheron Constantin has enlisted French designer Ora ïto to take a '50s-inspired design and give it a '70s twist for its 20th birthday.The post Vacheron Constantin teams up with French designer Ora ïto for a limited edition Patrimony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy
Let me put it this way: if you want a crown on the dial, looking at a shield instead doesn’t cut it. Luckily, the “Age of Alternatives” seems to have ended. Yes, some references still play hard to get, but more and more watches that were in high demand over the last few post-COVID years […] Visit No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Artisanal Humour in the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Flagship
A clever play on words, the Slim d’Hermès Flagship features a hand-painted dial depicting the flagship Hermès store in Paris as a sailing ship. Executed with a gold appliqué and miniature painting on an aventurine-glass dial, the “flagship” transforms the famous store at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré into the hull of the ship with sails billowing above it. As is often the case with Hermès’ métiers d’art watches, the dial is based on a scarf bearing the same motif designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, an artist based in Paris who’s a longtime designer for Hermès. Initial thoughts Both the motif and presentation of the Flagship encapsulate what Hermès does well. It’s typical Hermès – whimsical, elegant, and finely executed. And it’s not just about aesthetics: the depth and detail of the dial decoration is outstanding. Beyond the dial decor, the Flagship also incorporates subtle touches that reflect an attention to detail, like the spinning star disc on the dial and the slightly retro yellow gold case. Slim and witty An aventurine glass base serves as the base for the dial decoration. The store building is a solid gold appliqué that’s hand-engraved with a burin to fill out the fine details of the structure. It’s then painted by hand to add colour to the windows and “Hermes” logo. The rest of the dial, including the sails and starry sky, is done in miniature painting, specifically acrylic paint applied by hand and then baked in an oven to set...
SJX Watches
Auction: Space-Flown Watches From a Rolex GMT-Master to Omega Speedmasters
Ahead of the international watch auction season that kicks off in a few weeks, Boston-based RR Auction has opened an online auction that will interest those hunting especially rare, space-flown watches. Simply titled Space, the auction is focused primarily on space memorabilia, and includes three space-flown wristwatches that warrant a closer look, including a French astronaut’s Speedmaster that spent almost six hours in space. Known for its sales focused on historical memorabilia, particularly those relating to space exploration, RR Auction has notched up several notable watch sales in the past, including a Bulova chronograph worn on the Moon that sold for almost US$1.6 million in 2015. We round up highlights from the upcoming sale, which closes October 24, 2024. The catalogue and bidding are available online. Lot 6286 – Rolex GMT-Master II flown on Apollo 14 by Edgar Mitchell First up is the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 1675 worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Enhancing its appeal, the watch has tangible provenance: actually be seen in archival footage recording prior to take-off and in onboard footage taken during the mission. While the GMT-Master II was not uncommon among astronauts of that period – it was conceived as a watch for pilots after all – few actually made it to space. This example is only the second lunar Rolex to be sold publicly, after Ron Evans’s GMT-Master II worn on Apollo 17, whic...
Worn & Wound
What to Watch for at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024
Whenever and wherever a bunch of enthusiasts get together to talk about their passion, it’s sure to be a good time. But the Windup Watch Fair is different. Windup always feels like a seminal moment for our little corner of the watch world-which, let’s face it, isn’t so little anymore. Enthusiasts have become an absolutely critical audience to watch brands from around the world. It’s the enthusiasts who adopt early. It’s the enthusiasts who spread the news. It’s the enthusiasts who set the trends. And the over 130 brands who are flocking to Windup NYC in just a couple of weeks know it. Thank YOU for making Windup what it is today-the largest and most important watch enthusiast event in the world, taking place at: Center415 on 5th Avenue between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 19: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 20: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary This year, Windup NYC will not disappoint. First and foremost, Windup NYC has a new home. Nestled right on iconic 5th Ave in Manhattan, between 37th and 38th, is Center415. It’s a massive multi-floor venue that, for three days, will be the home to over 130 watch and EDC brands from 16 different countries around the world. This event is anchored by five Lead Sponsors who are planning some great product stories to tell, namely: Bulova, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Shinola. Here’s a quick rundown of what to watch for at ...
Hodinkee
Interview: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito On Grand Seiko's Future
In a candid interview, Mr. Naito discusses a wide range of ideas, from pricing and fewer limited editions to better bracelets and a possible reevaluation of the brand's "nature-inspired" dials.
Fratello
Introducing: A Quartet Of Panerai Submersible Navy SEALs Releases
Panerai is known for its Navy SEALs collection created in honor and in the spirit of the US Navy SEALs. The brand recently released a quartet of new models within that adventure-focused collection. This time, the watches feature a desert theme with beige accents and desert-camo straps. The release consists of four new references - […] Visit Introducing: A Quartet Of Panerai Submersible Navy SEALs Releases to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: New Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
In-depth review of the Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, covering design, features, and our analysis of the watch.
Monochrome
Introducing – 1 Watch Becomes 5 with the Interchangeable Bezels for the Nivada Chronomaster
The easiest and cheapest way to customize your watch is, without a doubt, by swapping the original (often boring) strap for a more personal aftermarket one – like we have in the MONOCHROME Shop. In a more complex and far more expensive way, vintage Rolex Sub and GMT collectors have long played the game of […]
Time+Tide
Upgrades to the Sternglas Naos Pro Automatik make it a certified Bauhaus beauty
An update to the original, the new Sternglas Naos Pro Automatik comes with a new movement and a slimmer case. The post Upgrades to the Sternglas Naos Pro Automatik make it a certified Bauhaus beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase
Sporting a moon phase and retro design, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase was originally available only in sedate colours of cream and silver. Now the line grows to include dials in Havana beige, anthracite and green. Unlike the recent Conquest Heritage, the Moonphase is not a vintage reproduction, rather it’s a blend of vintage and modern, with the bonus of a solid 18k gold medallion on the back portraying a caravel on a blue sea of grand feu enamel. Initial thoughts The new trio are essentially cosmetic expansions of the line, so they do not seem novel on paper, but they are a smartly conceived products. The traditional styling is preserved, but with dials in striking colours that are now much more lively. The earlier versions were arguably too plain, with the subdued colours seeming a bit flat. The Flagship Heritage Moonphase is one of Longines’ more expensive models at US$3,050, but nonetheless is decent value considering the top-of-the-line ETA movement and solid-gold, hand-enamelled emblem on the back. Calendar complications Like most models in Longines’ vintage-based Heritage Classic collection, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase is compact by modern standards, but larger than the actual vintage originals. The stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. Simple in style, the case has a domed, polished bezel and short, angular lugs with polished chamfers along their edges. Slightly domed to mimic a vintage watch, the dial is finished with a ...
Monochrome
Introducing – A New Trio of Amber-Toned H. Moser & Cie. Exclusive Creations for Bucherer
Bucherer, the world’s leading watch retailer that recently made headlines when Rolex acquired it, has a history of collaborating with various brands to release exclusive editions, and one signature colour has consistently defined these partnerships – Bucherer Blue. Last year, this theme was showcased in a trio of remarkable timepieces from H. Moser & Cie […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Are Military Watches OK For Everyone?
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss military watches new and old. We’re not here to discuss our favorite models, but we hit upon some major themes with these pieces. Some of them come from disgraced regimes, while newer models are similar to high-fashion collabs. Stick around to see what […] Visit Fratello On Air: Are Military Watches OK For Everyone? to read the full article.
Fratello
Zenith Dresses Its 41mm Defy Skyline In Pink For The Fight Against Breast Cancer
October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. For the third year in a row, Zenith presents a limited-edition watch to support this noble cause. In 2022, the Swiss brand made a Chronomaster Original with a very pink dial. Last year was the Chronomaster Sport’s turn, and now the Zenith Defy Skyline lends its dial to raise […] Visit Zenith Dresses Its 41mm Defy Skyline In Pink For The Fight Against Breast Cancer to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Four + One: John Nagayama – Japan's Calatrava King
Japan has become a mecca for the best vintage Calatravas, but even in a country of the best, Nagayama's passion – and collection – stands out.
Worn & Wound
Longines Adds New Dial Colors to the Flagship Heritage Collection
The winged hourglass is a memento mori, historically symbolizing that our time on earth is fleeting. It encourages us to make the best of the time we have. In other words, time flies, and Longines has been using their version of a winged hourglass logo for generations to remind us that time is indeed precious and should be tracked with a proper timepiece. Since the 1950s, their historic flagship model has been such a watch, and Longines is launching a new heritage version in three distinct colorways. All three are primarily made of polished stainless steel, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, 12.4mm in thickness, and 19 mm in lug width. The dials feature elegant, applied hour markers, a winged hourglass logo, and a subdial at 6 o’clock that displays a pointer date with a moon phase complication. The three sunburst dial colors are Havana beige, green, and anthracite. The latter has rose-gold-colored dial furniture, while the other two are polished steel. The watches are water-resistant to 30 meters. Since its creation in 1957, the Flagship collection has always included an 18-carat gold medallion on its case back, featuring a caravel ship with unfurled sails. The caravel was a light sailing ship commonly used by the Spanish and Portuguese during the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries for long voyages. The Portuguese developed it to explore the coast of Africa. The caravel was known for its ability to sail effectively against the wind. It’s a perfect way to celebrate the Flagship ...
Fratello
Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time
Whenever Czapek announces a new Antarctique, I am all ears. The brand’s take on a modern sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a touch of ’70s flair is one of my favorite models in this genre. The design, the movement, and the craftsmanship that goes into creating these watches make them stand out immediately. […] Visit Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On: The Atelier Wen Perception Titanium Millésime Mù
Atelier Wen has enjoyed a meteoric increase in popularity over the past two years. The independent brand has shed a positive light on Chinese watchmaking while producing attractive watches with finishes and materials normally found on more expensive pieces. To celebrate the fans who have brought so much success to the company, a limited-edition Perception […] Visit Hands-On: The Atelier Wen Perception Titanium Millésime Mù to read the full article.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds
The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...
Fratello
A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet
Three years ago, I had the pleasure of wearing the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet for a little while. The combination of a 40mm steel case with a characteristic stepped bezel, a classic white dial, and a complete-calendar caliber proved an impressive watch at a competitive price. I wrote that the watch that bucks the retro […] Visit A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The More Compact 39mm Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic
Alpina specialises in sports watches, and its Alpiner Extreme models in heavy-duty 41mm stainless steel cases are designed to withstand the toughest conditions. Revamped in 2022, the Alpiner Extreme started its new lease of life with a regulator dial and expanded to include regular time-and-date models and a chronograph. However, less than a month ago, […]
Time+Tide
Charlie Paris’ new Grande Randonnée watches promise outdoorsy practicality at a reasonable price
These French watches strike a great balance between elegance and sportiness at a reasonable price.The post Charlie Paris’ new Grande Randonnée watches promise outdoorsy practicality at a reasonable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport: Head-to-Head
Day One for the Zenith Chronomaster Sport was January 21, 2021. And it seemed like everyone had the same reaction: “That is one aggressive Rolex tribute.” Tim Mosso thinks that the Chronomaster Sport is a distinctive product with its own identity and takes a look here at how it stacks up against the ever-popular Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.
Fratello
The IFL Watches Timex Q Space Dunk Slams It Home!
IFL Watches modifies watches by adding wildly creative, handpainted dials. The brand has used several watches as a canvas for its creations. Each release is limited, and a quick look at the company’s website shows plenty of “sold out” signs. Let’s see if the new IFL Watches Timex Q Space Dunk strikes the same chord […] Visit The IFL Watches Timex Q Space Dunk Slams It Home! to read the full article.
Fratello
A Vintage Rolex Submariner 5512 With Stories To Tell
Although I’ve told the story to many people, I’ve never put pen to paper and written the account of my Rolex Submariner 5512. The tale is probably more common than we think in light of what Rolex was 60 years ago. A watch like the Submariner could withstand the rigors of water-related activities and had […] Visit A Vintage Rolex Submariner 5512 With Stories To Tell to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Auction: Christie’s Auction to Benefit Medical Charity ELA
Christie’s has just announced Watches for ELA, a thematic auction of 11 watches, mostly one-of-a-kind, to benefit the European Leukodystrophy Association (ELA), which supports research into the disorder. The brands that have created watches for the sale include Bovet, Konstantin Chaykin, Girard-Perregaux, Swatch, and most crucially from a value perspective, Richard Mille. While Christie’s is best known for staging Only Watch, a biennial charity auction, the ELA auction is notable for being the brainchild of François-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of French luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns brands like Gucci and Balenciaga. Mr Pinault is on the board of ELA, while Christie’s is owned privately by the Pinault family. Each timepiece in the ELA auction is offered without reserve, with all proceeds going to ELA. The sale takes place on November 11, 2024 as part of Christie’s customary Rare Watches auction. The catalogue and online bidding will be available at end October. Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Dark Yellow Quartz TPT The flagship offering in the sale, and the only watch with a six figure estimate, the RM 65-01 is one of the most complicated Richard Mille watches, the RM 65-01 is powered by a high-frequency, self-winding rattrapante chronograph movement made by Vaucher. This example is part of a 120-piece limited edition that’s the latest iteration of the RM 65-01. It sports yellow Quartz TPT carbon composite case and is th...