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The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch Time+Tide
Cartier Tank include May 3, 2021

The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch

One mark of a great dress watch is to what extent it can be dressed up or down, and Cartier’s Tank design is surely one of the best examples. Although undoubtedly formal, there’s something about the clean rectangular motifs that work just as well contrasting with jeans and a t-shirt as it does with a … ContinuedThe post The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide Time+Tide
Cartier May 1, 2021

The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide

Paris, Haute Couture and summer on the French Riviera – France has elegance ingrained into its very soul. Wrist-worn style is something we are used to seeing from both Cartier and Chanel, while Hermès has evolved into a serious horological prospect – take their sporty H8-series this year. But for the more budget-conscious, there is … ContinuedThe post The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Collection Excellence May 1, 2021

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine

Unveiled just recently at Watches & Wonders 2021, the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine is the newest – and best – iteration of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Historiques wristwatch. Modelled on a 1920s wristwatch with a dial rotated 45 degrees off the vertical, the American 1921 has long been available as a standard-production model in pink and yellow gold, as well as platinum. The new American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a limited edition of 100 pieces with the same idiosyncratic design, but with the enhancements typical of the CEP editions. That means a solid platinum dial along with platinum threads for the strap. Crucially, the 1921 CEP has applied numerals, a bonus found on none of the other versions of the 1921, which makes a good design even better. Initial thoughts Having been launched just over a decade ago, the American 1921 is a familiar watch. I’ve examined the different versions at length, and also wore one for a short period for a review. The 1921 gets most things right – design, details, and size – and looks good on the wrist. The 1921 CEP is unquestionably the best looking iteration of the model to date. Even though the aesthetic changes are modest – primarily the addition of applied hour numerals – the 1921 CEP looks strikingly different. The dial has less contrast but more depth, which results in a more refined appearance. It is, however, pricey. Already the standard version of the 1921 in platinum i...

“This is how my Apple Watch saved my life” Time+Tide
May 1, 2021

“This is how my Apple Watch saved my life”

Editor’s note: Last year, Bruno Molino was sitting in his Melbourne home when his Apple Watch started frantically beeping. Here, the 55-year-old describes exactly what happened next… “It was a Sunday evening and I was just sitting on the couch after dinner. Suddenly, I started to feel a little bit heated and I said to … ContinuedThe post “This is how my Apple Watch saved my life” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection? Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Apr 30, 2021

Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection?

At the start of the year, I was asked by my top-knotted boss (aka Andrew) what my exit watch would be. My answer came to me surprisingly quickly for some reason – the Jacob & Co Twin Turbo Furious Baguette Rose Gold with white diamonds and rubies of course. Why? Because it’s preposterously brilliant, complicated, … ContinuedThe post Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A deep dive with Jeffrey Kingston, the man behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms documentary Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms documentary If Apr 30, 2021

VIDEO: A deep dive with Jeffrey Kingston, the man behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms documentary

If you love dive watches, Jeffrey Kingston is a name you should be familiar with. He literally wrote the book on the first early dive watches produced by Blancpain and has been a knowledgable fixture in the watch world for nearly two decades. Before he focused his attention on horological scholarship, Kingston was a successful … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A deep dive with Jeffrey Kingston, the man behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms documentary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – The Sex, Crime & Russell Crowe Edition Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – The Sex, Crime & Russell Crowe Edition

This week’s wind down comes from an unfamiliar voice. Right now, Nick is on holiday and reportedly sunning himself by a pool in Noosa wearing his infamously skimpy trunks and sipping a neon-blue cocktail. So I’m stepping into the breach to fill you in on a rather eventful week. The main news: we accidentally copped … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – The Sex, Crime & Russell Crowe Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports AUTO MOAI Limited Editions Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports AUTO MOAI Apr 29, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports AUTO MOAI Limited Editions

Seiko is on a roll with collaborations this year, recently teaming up with Naruto and Evisen Skateboards among others. Now Seiko has announced a new collaboration limited edition with the Japanese manufacturer teaming up with artist AUTO MOAI. According to Seiko, “AUTO MOAI is an artist working in Japan with the theme ‘anonymity’. AUTO MOAI … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports AUTO MOAI Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Makes Traditional, Hand-Executed Guilloche Affordable SJX Watches
Louis Erard Makes Traditional Hand-Executed Guilloche Apr 29, 2021

Louis Erard Makes Traditional, Hand-Executed Guilloche Affordable

Although best known for its collaborations with independent watchmakers, Louis Erard is adept at introducing elements of high-end watchmaking in its accessibly-priced watches. The recent Excellence Email Grand Feu offered a grand feu enamel dial for less than 4,000 Swiss francs. Now Louis Erard is moving on to traditional engine turning with the Excellence Guilloché Main. Limited to 99 pieces, the watch features a chequer guilloché dial with an M.C Escher vibe, and an eminently affordable 3,900 Swiss franc price tag. Initial thoughts Consistently offering affordable timepieces that punch way above their price point, Louis Erard is fast becoming one of my favourite watchmakers. The Excellence Guilloché Main affirms my thoughts about the brand. It is an honest representation of a traditional decorative technique, but different. I find the chequer pattern to be even more striking than the standard guilloché patterns like hobnail or barleycorn. Executed to give it perspective, the pattern has a three-dimensional quality that endows the watch with a sense of depth uncommon on dials as wide and flat as this. And, the heat-blued hands add a welcome pop of colour to the otherwise monochrome palette. The simple functions of just hours and minutes allow the chequer guilloché to be admired in its full glory. I particularly like how Louis Erard prints its brand name on the underside crystal instead of the dial, which further enhances the perceived depth of the watch. That...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Full Lum SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Apr 29, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Full Lum

Though best known for its square, aviation-instrument watches, Bell & Ross actually offers a varied lineup of conventional, round watches that nonetheless remain military inspired, such as the BR V2-94. The brand now gives its vintage-inspired chronograph a fully luminescent makeover to create the BR V2-94 Full Lum. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross implemented the fully-luminescent dial on BR 03-92 Full Lum (which even had a luminous strap), so the dial treatment is not novel. However, it’s a first for one of the brand’s round watches. If you are a fan of the “Full Lum” concept but dislike large square watches, then the “lumed-out” BR V2-94 is right up your alley. And while its full-luminous dial is undoubtedly the watch’s biggest selling point, it isn’t a gimmick that appears merely after sundown. The BR V2-94 is eye-catching even in daylight. The luminous dial is a pale, mint green that’s akin to that in the new Breitling Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel. Furthermore, the BR V2-94 is perhaps the best-looking round watch in Bell & Ross’ current catalogue, good enough that I almost pulled the trigger on the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze a while back. The BR V2-94 is a design that successfully fuses the brand’s military-issue heritage with a contemporary look. My only knock is the lack of luminous paint on the bezel as well as the date, which feel like odd exceptions for a “Full Lum” watch. The non-luminous date leaves a dark spot on the glowing ...

INTRODUCING: The new Serica 5303, a time-travelling tool watch with a French twist Time+Tide
Serica 5303 Apr 29, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Serica 5303, a time-travelling tool watch with a French twist

With the tuxedo panache of the Oscars still fresh in my memory, I appreciate brand founder Jerome Burgert describing this new Serica 5303 diver’s watch as being adept at transitioning “from the wetsuit to the three-piece suit”. In defiance of Luke Benedictus’ story on the need for slim dress watches when suiting up, I sometimes … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Serica 5303, a time-travelling tool watch with a French twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Candy comparison: How do the Oris Cotton Candy and Rolex OP dials compare? Time+Tide
Rolex OP dials compare? Oris Apr 28, 2021

Candy comparison: How do the Oris Cotton Candy and Rolex OP dials compare?

Oris has really dug into bronze of late with the material repeatedly featuring in the brand’s catalogue in recent years. But one thing Oris has done with bronze that you never really see in the industry is produce bronze-cased watches with matching bronze metal bracelets. We first saw this when they released the Oris Divers … ContinuedThe post Candy comparison: How do the Oris Cotton Candy and Rolex OP dials compare? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 Apr 28, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value

Watch collecting can be intimidating for beginners with many people scared off by the exorbitant price tags.  But you can get high quality watches at lower price points and, when it comes to presenting value-driven novelties, Seiko reigns supreme. The brand is particularly strong when it comes to diving watches, having perfected their offering since … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase SJX Watches
Casio nally created Apr 28, 2021

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase

A custom shop best known for its extensively reworking of popular sports watches – occasionally created in collaboration with celebrity sportsmen  – Artisans de Genève has a diverse portfolio of work that range from the intriguing to the mystifying. Certainly one of its more intriguing timepieces is the Sea Shepherd Challenge, a Submariner with a moon phase display surrounded by much aventurine glass that was commissioned by the founder of the eponymous marine conservation group. Initial thoughts Aftermarket customisation of fashionable watches is common. It can often be merely opportunistic, with customisers taking advantage of the watchmaker’s well-established brand and design. Rarely are customised watches interesting in a technical sense. The Sea Shepherd Challenge is interesting, being a mechanical customisation rather than the change of colours that’s the usual formula applied to such watches. It incorporates an oversized moon phase display (driven by a mechanically simple, but elaborately-constructed mechanism going by this animation), along with an aventurine-glass dial and bezel insert. Add to that the added decoration to the movement, and the watch does have its appeal. The customisation alone costs about US$35,000 (and the client either provides the watch or purchases one), which is probably too much for the work done, but within reason given the benchmark prices of such customised watches. A mariner’s watch This customised Submariner was a request...

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary Apr 27, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver

Whenever I am asked about the brands to get into when you’re just starting a collection, Seiko and their value-driven offerings are always at the top of the list. The vertically integrated manufacturer has a deep understanding of watchmaking, building all of the components in house to create robust, reliable and eye-pleasing designs that leverage … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Anyone who follows Apr 27, 2021

Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex

Anyone who follows the fight game knows that Georges St-Pierre is a legend. Not just for his remarkable UFC record of 26 wins against just 2 losses, but also because in a sport that is sometimes overtaken by trash-talking bravado, GSP is a gentleman in every sense of the word. He maintained a laser-like focus … ContinuedThe post Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence Apr 27, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality

When it comes to dive watches from Grand Seiko, we’ve come to expect watches that are large and in charge. We certainly aren’t holding our breath for a vintage-inspired sub-40mm diver with a subtly tapering faux-riveted bracelet. It isn’t going to happen. Instead, the Japanese watchmaker tends to make their technically sophisticated dive watches in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGX335 delivers wrist presence and epic functionality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

And the award for the wildest watch combo of the Oscars goes to… Time+Tide
Casio n during Apr 26, 2021

And the award for the wildest watch combo of the Oscars goes to…

The 93rd Academy Awards, a.k.a The Oscars, resiliently aired this week, managing to create some semblance of what we love about the occasion during the trying times of the pandemic. With social distancing and other safety procedures in mind, the ceremony was held in Union Station in Los Angeles – where only the nominees were … ContinuedThe post And the award for the wildest watch combo of the Oscars goes to… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Remontet Introduces the Time Capsule SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Apr 26, 2021

Remontet Introduces the Time Capsule

Located in the town of Renaison, a five-hour drive south of Paris, Horlogerie V Remontet is named after its founder, Valentin Remontet. A young watchmaker who who spent three years at TAG Heuer and then Breguet before striking out on his own, Mr Remontet started his brand with conventional, round watches powered by ETA movements. He has since moved on to watches that are inventive and modern in style and construction. Mr Remontet’s latest is the Time Capsule, a avant-garde watch that has an unorthodox regulator-style display along with unconventional hourstriker. Initial thoughts With the fashion of the day in niche independent watchmaking being classical watchmaking with a heavy Breguet numerals or a “sector” dial, Mr Remontet’s watch is decidedly bold – and also impressive. Its aesthetic is highly technical, and matched by genuinely creative mechanics. The movement is clearly an original construction, even if it does use some components from common calibres. The style is certainly not for everyone – I find it a bit too extreme – but the fresh, bold nature of the Time Capsule is impressive. And the €17,000 price, which is about US$21,000, is fair considering the work in both development and manufacture. Preserving a memory Mr Remontet works along, and fabricates much of the watch himself – including the gaskets for the case – with some components produced by a French micro-machining specialist in micro machining. As a result, Mr Remontet says about 90...

Living With: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 26, 2021

Living With: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

I’m familiar with IWC pilot’s watches, having once owned a Mark XVII, which I bought as the quintessential flieger watch. But the Mark XVII didn’t last too long in my collection because it is very much military-inspired, and I’m not much of a military man, making it hard for me to connect with the design. When I got the chance to test drive the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 (ref. IW3881) – the latest version of IWC’s longstanding bestseller – I figured it was an opportunity to see if the fliegerchronograph would appeal to me where the time-only Mark XVII did not. Initial thoughts On paper, the 41 mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is an evolution rather than a revolution, perhaps unsurprising given how popular successive versions of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph have been over the three decades they have been in the catalogue. The various elements that make up the watch are familiar – the blue dial can be found on the larger “Le Petit Prince” Pilot’s Watch Chronograph from 2016, while the cal. 69000-family movement inside a reduced, 41 mm case was exactly the revamped Spitfire Pilot’s Watch Chronograph launched in 2019. But still, the new chronograph manages to be a whole that’s greater than the sum of its parts. While constituent parts might be similar, but they arguably work better together here than in any prior watch. I was surprised at how much I liked the watch. For one, the 41 mm case is significantly more wearable than the previous-g...

Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm Time+Tide
Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm Apr 26, 2021

Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm

To many people’s bewilderment, 2020 saw the rebirth of the Pasha de Cartier. While I happily count myself amongst the Pasha’s staunch fans, I had understood why it was originally discontinued. The styling is almost indecipherable, its origin tale lending us to believe that it was originally made in the early 1930s for the Pasha … ContinuedThe post Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow Time+Tide
Longines Silver Arrow Apr 26, 2021

HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow

The new Longines Silver Arrow constitutes a comeback for the functional steel dress watch, a watch that in its heyday would simply be a sporty everyday timepiece. It presents a reassuring throwback to the quieter times of the 1950s, a time when even half a day at the office would mean dressing up in a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage Time+Tide
Apr 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage

Eschewing the pretence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet collection Apr 25, 2021

Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection

With my one year anniversary with the Time+Tide team on the horizon, the only drawback has been that the pandemic inhibited all the in-person interaction I really craved. What I love about the watch community is being able to meet up, whether with members of the industry or #watchfam community, and nerd out for hours … ContinuedThe post Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets Apr 24, 2021

#Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects

The new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph for me definitely scratched an itch I was well aware of, well, two itches. While I’m always impressed by the mechanics of a chronograph complication, I prefer clean dials and the contrasts of a sharp panda. The beefy Black Bay chronograph has always been sharp in the looks department, … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre Apr 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

With nearly 40 brands presenting novelties this Watches & Wonders, it can be quite the challenge to present a novelty that stands out amongst the crowd. After speaking with various members of the press, and #watchfam on instagram and clubhouse, it has become abundantly clear that the horological champion of the fair was Jaeger-LeCoultre. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Doing Its Part to Battle Climate Change SJX Watches
Rolex Doing Apr 24, 2021

Rolex Doing Its Part to Battle Climate Change

Two decades after its founding in 1905, Rolex began equipping sportspeople and explorers with waterproof Oyster watches, making possible precision timekeeping under adverse conditions. And it continued as the peace and prosperity of the postwar era in the 1950s encouraged exploration of the heights and depths of the Earth, driving adventurers through snow and water into the pages of history. This era also gave birth to watches like the Explorer, Submariner, and GMT-Master – all watches for professionals who were charting the planet. Today much of the planet has been explored, and it’s no longer a race to the deepest ocean or the tallest mountain, but instead a quest to preserve the planet. Having long been a supporter of exploration, Rolex now backs modern-day explorers who seek to battle climate change. The watchmaker funds scientific expeditions focused on conservation, such as measuring the volume of ice at the North Pole in order to gauge global warming. Since 2019, the ongoing conservation programmes that Rolex supports have been formally come under the Perpetual Planet initiative, the watchmaker’s endeavour to pave the way for a sustainable future. Early explorers Before exploring Rolex’s support for conservation programme, it’s worth revisiting its early participation in exploration. Amongst the most notable was the British Everest Expedition, the 1953 attempt to scale Mount Everest led by Sir John Hunt, a colonel in the British Army. It was a competitiv...